If the MAF sensor was the problem, it would run fine as soon as it is replaced.

 

OK so worst thing that happened was I got a new MAFS and I am sure tye car would have needed it anyway down the road. It's a 96' with 242k on it! OK I am off to Auto Zone to get this car scanned and I will update.

 

OK Auto Zone pulled 3 codes...

P1445 - Canister Purge Volume Control Valve

P1105 - Solenoid Valve

P0325 - Knock Sensor

Auto Zone said 1 mkight be setting off the other... They also said it may be a kink or a hole in the hose somewhere...

Ok now what?

 

Auto Zone said I could reset the ECU by taking the battery cabkles off for about 20-30 minutes... Is this correct?

 

Yes, u can reset by removing the neg lead for battery a coupla min.

Check exhaust pipe for bends or obstructions. That could also a reason for low revs.

Where did u get the new MAF from?

P1105 is for MAP/Baro switch. Check hoses for leaks. Its provides reference pressure for car. I would replace it. The other codes can wait.

 

Thanks but my main issue is that I cannot drive car past 2000 rpm's in any gear (I have a 5 spd.) I replaces the MAFS last week and still the same problem. Could it be that my original 1 was bad and the new 1 is bad too? How odd would that be? All I want is for this car to drive past 2000 RPM's. What has no bearing on that out of those codes - meaning does code P1105 have anything to do with the safe made 2000 rpm thing or what?

Any ideas on where I should take the new MAFS to get tested so I know it works correctly?

 

If u have a multimeter u can check the MAF and MAP/BARO swithch urseldf. Since u dont have a misfire code, im guessing u have a air issue. I think u shd check hoses and check sensors per FSM. Do a SEARCH for MAP/BARO switch and see if anyone else had the same symptoms.

 

What does FSM stand for? I do not have the cabability to check the MAFS. I assume I can take it to the dealer and have them check that or Pep Boys? I also do not know what the MAP/BARO switch means - I will look it up.

You don't think the knock Sensor has anything to do with the car not reving opast 2000 rpms though?

 

I bought the MAFS from ebay for like $70 bucks - it would be odd that both the old and new 1 are bad don't ya think. Where would you suggest I get the MAFS checked out?

 

I took 2 pictures of a hose that is located right by my MAFS that is disconnected but I do not know how to post it on this site. Any help will be appreciated. This may be the problem but I have no idea...

 

Is there anyone in the South Jersey-Philadelphia area that would want to earn some extra money working on my car? I really do not have the time or the energy.

 

simple thing that will definitely fix it because i had the exact same problem... reconnect the cables for the MAF, take out the battery terminal and put it back on and finally use the OBD to clear the codes or just by a screw driver.. problem will def go away. good luck

 

OK I never disconnected the cables to the MAFS to begin with. So you are saying take the terminals off the battery, put them back on, and then clear the codes? I thought taking the battery terminals off would clear the codes? I am a little lost.

 

disconnect the battery to reset all the codes. See if the car drives better. plan to take it to a mechanic and give him all the codes that you have listed. Tell him that you reseted them.

This may be your best bet as you may do more damage to the car. Cars aren't your thing. This is my advise.

 

Gotcha. I just tried taking the terminals off an I got the positive off but now the negative is stripped. See what I mean... I did do the ECU thing with the screw driver to the right and the left. I am just wondering if the KS and the other codes I pulled have anything to do with the car not going past 2000 rpm's in any gear. I keep hearing it's an air thing. Should I get the MAFS tested first? As I mentioned I replaced that already. I assume any local shop will know how to test a MAFS to see if it's good or go to the dealer? I wonder if the dealer will say we gotta replace the KO sensor to see what that is and that alone is like $300 labor. Man I wish one of you guys were in South Jersey. I would pay good $ to get this done. This is killing my job - gotta travel for work and can't get past 48 mph. Also do not have $1,000 to drop on unknown stuff.

 

One terminal is all you need. Leave the other on. The knock sensor should be the last thing if even replaced at all. I'm quite sure that the other codes besides the knock is whats causing that limit. Again, the mafs is most likely not the issue.

Keep whatever terminal that you have disconnected for as long as the autozone guy recommended and test the car again.

 

The Autozone guy did not recommend anything but give me the codes. The 3 codes are...
P1445 EVAP Purge Volume Control Valve
P1105 Manifold Absolute Pressure Switch
and P0325 - Knock Sensor
So you are saying leave just 1 terminal off for as long as possible? Then I can possible start the car with nothing wrong until it acts up again?
You guys seem to have people all over the country. Is there anyone in the South Jersey-Philadelphia area who would wanna make some $$$??? I will not pay a dealer mega bucks especially after the attitude he gave me yesterday. The want $115 for diag and I am sure there will be a huge list including an oil change... LOL! I just need the car to run!

 

The guy at Auto Zone never recommended anything. He only gave me the 3 codes...
Knock Sensor
P1105 manifold Absolute Pressure Switch
P1445 Canister Purge Volume Control Valve

I suppose taking the 1 terminal off overnight may allow the ecu to reset the codes and I MAY be able to drive right for a little while. I should probably start looking for prices on thEse parts ABOVE now too huh?

I mentioned earlier but I have a small hose disconnected near the MAFS but I do not know where it goes and I do not know how to post it on here.
I suppose there is no one around the south jersey Philadelphia area who would want to work on this car? I'd rather pay 1 of you guys ...

 

Upload the picture to your computer. Go to http://imageshack.us/ and upload the picture there for free. Just follow the directions. After the picture is uploaded they should give a forum link that you can just post here it here. Unfortunately, I think that the hose is designed to just hang there.

 

What do you recommend for the 1st part of my prior post reagrding buying the sensors etc..? I assume the dealership should be able to check the MAFS? Is that something they would be able to do?

 

I honestly don't think that this is serious enough to take the car to a dealer. Don't you have any local mechanics that can work on the car? The knock sensor should be the last thing changed. It sometimes give false codes so I'll wait on it. The other 2 are important.

 

I kept the terminal off all night and it started up normal this morning. OK how long will this last and should I still work on getting this stuff fixed? Thank you all for all of your help!

 

If you did the ECU screwdriver thing, you shouldn't have needed to disconnect the battery too (different methods for doing the same thing). I wouldn't just assume everything's OK because it drives fine with the codes cleared. If something's wrong, they'll come back when the car detects a problem again, and it will probably be at a very inconvenient time. At the very least, follow EsQueue's directions above and let us see that disconnected hose that may or may not be your entire problem.

 

PM sent

 

I just experienced these same problems on my 2000 Infiniti I30, which took hours of research and labor to figure out the key problem. In the end, I had a faulty TPS sensor in which was giving a bad signal to the ECU. When you receive your new/used TPS sensor, make sure to test it for functionality, as the one I ordered was faulty. Once replaced and the Idle Air Volume Learning Process is completed on your new TPS, your car should work good as new.

Included below are links to check the validity of your TPS sensor:

http://easyautodiagnostics.com/nissan/3.0L/throttle-position-sensor-tests-1

http://easyautodiagnostics.com/nissan/3.0L/idle-switch-test-and-adjustment-1

A quick test to confirm that you have a faulty TPS sensor is to disconnect it entirely from the car and drive around. If your car operates normally, then this is the problem. The car will enter a "fail-safe" mode where throttle position will be determined based on the injected fuel amount and the speed. You can drive without a TPS sensor installed, but acceleration will be poor. Your SES will illuminate to warn you of the faulty TPS sensor, but your car will idle normally.

Included below also is a link for the Idle Air Volume Learning Process:

http://infinitihelp.com/diy/i/projects/infiniti_i30_idle_air_volume_learning.php

 

It's usually the MAF sensor that won't allow you to go past the 2000-2500 RPM. I will tell you that out of the three codes you have, you just need one code to link up the other 2 codes most of the times with knock sensor codes and evap codes. I will tell you for a fact when my knock sensor kicked in the car didn't go past 2000 rpm and it threw a knock code and I replaced my knock sensor and I was able to to go past 2000 rpm again. I would first get the dash light fixed than get the codes scanned with a nissan scanner than check the knock sensor. The evap would also make the the car run funny if it's the plunger that's in the charcoal cannisters they get stuck and you have to replace them.

 

FSM = Factory Service Manual