nosispower

I thought this post would be a nice change from all the other threads here about this and that being broken on their cars...

As far as I know it, my car handles as well as it ever will without resorting to lower (I live in Boston). I've had this suspension setup for about a month now but I never really really pushed it until today and I still can't stop grinning...especially considering how little money I actually spent on it.

I've got stock SE springs w/117k on them paired with KYB GR-2s, a nice big ADDCO sway bar and fresh Kumho Ecstas and let me say...it's amazing how well this 9 year old FWD sedan can take corners now.

I took an unfamiliar offramp a liiiiittle too fast tonight and thought I was gonna have to brake hard to avoid hitting the guardrail, but instead I just turned the wheel and the car kept hanging on. Stock, my car's handling demeanor was basically more gas = more understeer, less gas = less understeer. Tonight, the thing just stuck...like...it wouldn't let go and I could actually feel the rear wheels of the car rotating instead of feeling like they were just holding up the car. No understeer, no oversteer...just perfect neutral grip.

Screw lowering....I'm done with my rave.

Anyone else have similar experiences?

matts95max

iTrader: (11)

so basically all anyone needs to get is a rear sway bar?

MadMaxSE-L

iTrader: (4)

good to know... suspension complete!!!

Delvin

I would have loved have seen how this thread would have started if you did hit the brakes hard on a turn like that when you are pushing it. Lowering it still will give you an even better advantage over stock height and plus just for the cosmetic factor its worth it.

jjamzman

The rear sway bar does work wonders though with or without lowering. I lowered mine too, but the rear bar probably makes more difference than any other single piece, assuming you already have good tires.

jjam

'96 B-rad

Thats pretty much mine only I also have a front strut bar. It does handle MUCH better than my old max that had all stock suspension. You should add a fstb for even more support for those corners.

nosispower

Oh yeah, I have a FTSB too, but I'm very upset with it so I decided not to mention it.

1) it broke off a vacuum hose on my IACV valve (which is why my SES light is on)

2) cost my 20 dollars and I didn't feel a thing

l3ftonm3

iTrader: (2)

when you installed the FTSB did you raise the front of the car while putting it on so the wheels were above the ground. If not id try that and tighten everything down again, for me it seemed to make a more noticeable difference.

'96 B-rad

Yeah, although when I bough the car it already had both on so I dont know the benefits of one over the other. I just know it handles like a different car compared to my old one. But it sounds like it was installed wrong..

lophix

iTrader: (3)

I'm curious how you would pull that off. Picturing this in my head, when you have the wheels on the ground, the springs/strut tower are compressed enough due to the weight of the car holding it down; hence the reason why the bolts are accessible. If the wheels are off the ground, doesn't it stand to reason that the bolts will be (i) more difficult to get off with a handtool; (ii) spring/strut combo will drop inside the wheel well due to the drop when the suspension isn't loaded and the wheels are off the ground (gravity)?

d00df00d

iTrader: (4)

You're right, it is a nice change from all that crap. It's also nice to see someone trying to get as much handling as possible with stock ride height.

You can get better handling out of it without lowering it, though. Koni Yellows, a full set of Energy Suspension bushings, full subframe connectors, a BlehmCo stage 2 lower tie bar, and a good FSTB would do wonders. They'd even make the ride a lot better as well. A lightweight set of 15" rims (inexpensive example: Motegi TrakLites) would help your acceleration, braking, and tracking and handling on rough surfaces.

There's also a 5-speed swap if you're automatic. That will take a good amount of weight off the front end, which will really help as well.

If you get around to doing that stuff, let me know. I will very seriously drive out there from Philly just to ride in your car...

d00df00d

iTrader: (4)

IIRC, the stock springs and struts will extend past what the suspension will allow. As long as you still have the lower strut bolts in place, the spring/strut assembly will not drop.

The struts are bolted to the frame, so the studs will be just as accessible no matter what position the car is in. If you can open the hood, you'll be able to get to them.

Fr33way™

iTrader: (23)

What a f'ucking joke.

I sway bar and Kumho's? Have you ever driven a well-handling Maxima?

mzmtg

iTrader: (11)

Without some kind of shortened strut body, any lowering of the car takes away badly needed compression travel in the suspension.

I've run many different spring/strut combos and none of them handle as well as the stock spring/AGX/addco bar combo I have now. Konis or Illuminas may ride a bit better, but that's about it. Keeping stock springs is the key.

A "stiff" feel does not equate to truly improved handling in all conditions.

d00df00d

iTrader: (4)

And messes up the geometry.

mzmtg

iTrader: (11)

Exactly.

With a MacPherson strut setup, the roll center lowers faster than the car's center of gravity. This means that, all else being equal, the car has more tendancy to roll as it gets lowered. Lowering springs must be much, much stiffer than OEM to resist this tendancy, killing ride quality and overloading the dampers. Most people ride and corner on their bumstops much more than they realize.

Now, we wait for all the bumpstop-denial that is sure to ensue.

d00df00d

iTrader: (4)

Anti-S-Tech-Owner defense systems activated...

MadMaxSE-L

iTrader: (4)

so, it's lowering FTL???

d00df00d

iTrader: (4)

Well... more like lowering is overrated. It doesn't give the gains people think it will because it introduces almost as many negative factors as positive ones.

It is of course possible to get huge handling gains with lowering. You just have to set the suspension up right.

You also have to know what you want. For instance, just slapping on some lowering springs can give you the feeling of better handling because many of the car's responses will be more immediate, but your actual *****-out grip levels might not be much better. If you want more grip as well, you're going to have to do a little more work.

MaximaSE96

iTrader: (8)

hence y Eibachs are a very mild drop with stiff springs...they are better than stock in terms of sport handeling but minimal loss of suspension travel

d00df00d

iTrader: (4)

And minimal change in suspension geometry...

But yes, that's exactly right. That's why Eibach springs are absolutely the best lowering springs for the Maxima, period.

Until, of course, someone steps up and finally makes us some taller LCA balljoints...

MaximaSE96

iTrader: (8)

I am working on it....a local guy on another forum owns a cnc machine shop ....getting some dimensions and trying to get ball joint adpaters made

matts95max

iTrader: (11)

So ksport coilovers/d2's/tein FTL???

d00df00d

iTrader: (4)

Not at all. Eibachs are the best springs... not necessarily the best suspension setup. Good coilover kits can be much, much better if you set them up right.

d00df00d

iTrader: (4)

In that case, add me to the list of people who have money with your/his name(s) on it.

njmaxseltd

iTrader: (19)

Absolutely....

I installed a set of 5 speed SE front springs in my automatic SE, kept the stock SE springs my 99 came with. The result was about a 3/4 inch drop up front making the front gap matching, if not smaller then the rear fender gap. The car actually looks good on 17" rims. I'm running Illuminas for strut/shocks. The ride is nothing short of amazingly smooth and the car handles as well as any other sport sedan on the road today. I think it actually out handles my stock BMW 330. I'll never lower any other car I'll ever own, the ride suffers to much.

Here's a pic of the ride height.

Fr33way™

iTrader: (23)

I was higher when on my D2's than I am now....

I said nothing of what I thought the best setup was, I just DON'T think it is with stock spring rates and a sway bar.

I also think that Eibach's are probably the best aftermarket spring, although my knowledge is limited to 5-6 different setups.

I really want some Tein Basic guys to chime in.

Fr33way™

iTrader: (23)

The stock springs are awful with transient response. That alone leads me to my conclusion. We are also using the word best which makes this an informed conversation at most, there is no winner.

JSutter

iTrader: (46)

Struts play a bigger roll in handling and comfort than springs do. It kills me to see any one lower their car 2"+ on stock struts. Why spend $200 on springs and do nothing else. It also kills me that 99% of the Maxima community doesnt even know (or look into) Konis. They are far superior, not to mention you can shorten them. There are probably a few dozen on the org with Konis, and maybe a hand full are shortened. It makes a huge difference. All thats talked about is Stechs and Illuminas... most buy GR-2 or HP. Have fun with your bump stops you cheap azz. The only springs worth getting are Eibach; H&R, Tokico, H tech are decent on the street though still very soft.

But yea stock springs paired with adjustable struts and a RSB is a giant leap from bone stock. Its by no means the perfect setup, still pretty go none the less.Tires are also something not to over look, but not even going to get into that.

Fr33way™

iTrader: (23)

The thing is in sweeping corners the struts are not going to be the limiting factor. The only way to flatten the car out during higher-speed corners is higher rates.

Another problem with the word BEST is that CHEAP can also influence someone's opinion of how good something ACTUALLY is.

skweaky

iTrader: (3)

so theres a big prblem with s-techs and stock struts....i know the stock struts will go out soon but i do stuff in stages. when they go out ill have enough money to get some koni struts. 150 here 250 there over time it adds up. bein in college and not havin rich parents will do that to you. but back on subject. for right now im happy with the stechs. not the best ride but i dont track race and nor do i haul around royalty. ive got the finger gap i wanted for 150 shipped.

Fr33way™

iTrader: (23)

I'm not sure what you are trying to say.

404: rich parents not found.

d00df00d

iTrader: (4)

Great. But you got them for looks. We're talking about handling...

Fr33way™

iTrader: (23)

Or was it ride?

d00df00d

iTrader: (4)

...And that.

MorpheusZero

iTrader: (10)

I do miss the added suspension travel of stock suspension. It'd be interesting to go back to stock springs for a bit and see what it's like. I still have them in a box in my garage... really wish my car could soak up the mid-corner bumps a little better, and I do miss the ride of Konis and stock SE springs...

simmers96

i found some tokico Illuminas and springs on I believe peformance.com for about $600 for the set. Is that a good deal ?? or should I get some other spring instead of the tokico spring. Oh whats with koni. The ones I saw on eibach.com > links> said that they go inside your stock strut.?.?? What is that?
anyone use Koni let me know
I need rear struts bc blown but want to feel the road more and lower so the car doesnt look so dumb w/ giant gaps. no gokart feel!

MaximaSE96

iTrader: (8)

i am thinking about going Eibachs...

scrhale

Does aftermarket struts/shocks with stock springs change ride quality? Positive or negative. I know springs do, but I am suspension clueless.

MaximaSE96

iTrader: (8)

they have a little affect...most of it is the springs...but to a point they will affct it....it depends which kind u get whether its good or bad.....