Clutch Question: Whats stopping me?
#1
Clutch Question: Whats stopping me?
Was installin my clutch, last night. I dont know if it was the lack of sleep or the extreme exhaustion but. I went to install a pilot bearing, only to realize it wont fit in?
It was the proper size, purchased from Autozone. Here is a pic to maybe help shed some light.
The pilot bearing seemed the same size as the opening. Either there is one already in there (which I dont think an AT motor has one), or I got the wrong size?
scratching my head. This lack of sleep isnt helpin either.
if the pics are that bad I can take more.
It was the proper size, purchased from Autozone. Here is a pic to maybe help shed some light.
The pilot bearing seemed the same size as the opening. Either there is one already in there (which I dont think an AT motor has one), or I got the wrong size?
scratching my head. This lack of sleep isnt helpin either.
if the pics are that bad I can take more.
#3
I just found out. it compresses. One side of the bearing isnt flat, its curved and so it need to be punched in. A decent socket should do the trick
why not
Originally Posted by Mxrider52
You dont need it.
#4
Originally Posted by MDeezy
I just found out. it compresses. One side of the bearing isnt flat, its curved and so it need to be punched in. A decent socket should do the trick
why not
why not
#5
Also, I made a topic about it. Apparantly our transmission does not use the pilot bearing? So it doesn't need to be replaced? That is what I gathered from the replies anyway. If you did want to replace it you need to get some tool to hook on the inside of it and drag it out.
#6
Originally Posted by ffcbairn
The pilot bearing that I ordered with my clutch doesn't look like that.
Also the motor never came with a Pilot bearin so it will need one. I'll search for your thread and see what I pop up with.
#7
Originally Posted by MDeezy
why not
It doesnt attach to anything it just sits there. There no use what so ever for it. There people that have switched from auto to manual and did not use a pilot bearing. The input shaft does not touch this bearing so it useless unless you just want it in there to feel comfortable.
#9
Originally Posted by Mxrider52
It doesnt attach to anything it just sits there. There no use what so ever for it. There people that have switched from auto to manual and did not use a pilot bearing. The input shaft does not touch this bearing so it useless unless you just want it in there to feel comfortable.
#10
Originally Posted by Apparition
I'm listening to you and hear ya loud and clear.. But, I can't shake this feeling that has to do with greatly paid engineers in Japan designing my 4th Gen with a bearing that has no purpose. Somehow, just somehow that sounds like a very illogical thing to do.
I just ran out, I must need it and I'll punch it in. My old motor (which was an MT from the factory has the bearing in it). If I dont put the bearing in the input shaft would sit further in that intended. The input shaft it too big to fit into the pilot bearing.
It must be needed and I for sure would hate to have a to replace the tranny later due to one small part. I realize I nee to punch it in, I thought it would just slide in, so all should install fine now.
#11
Originally Posted by MDeezy
I just ran out, I must need it and I'll punch it in. My old motor (which was an MT from the factory has the bearing in it). If I dont put the bearing in the input shaft would sit further in that intended. The input shaft it too big to fit into the pilot bearing.
It must be needed and I for sure would hate to have a to replace the tranny later due to one small part. I realize I nee to punch it in, I thought it would just slide in, so all should install fine now.
It must be needed and I for sure would hate to have a to replace the tranny later due to one small part. I realize I nee to punch it in, I thought it would just slide in, so all should install fine now.
#14
Originally Posted by ManualMaxima
i hope i sold you the right stuff man
I'm sure you did, thanks again man.
What kind of clutch are you running?
Your Rear Main seal isnt leaking is it? That could cause slippage from the oil getting onto the clutch.
Maybe a SS clutch line would help increase the pressure in the cluch and help release/engage properly.
#18
From what I gathered the pilot bearing is for the alignment tool. To line up your clutch. the bearing has a smaller diameter than the input shaft because it has nothing to do with the shaft going into it. Once the bearing is in the crank, the alignment tool should slide right in that bearing giving you a nice, good fit for lining up the clutch. If im wrong some1 inform me but that is how I understood its purpose.
Marlon I have been tryin to call you to see whats goin on?!
Marlon I have been tryin to call you to see whats goin on?!
#19
Originally Posted by tavarish
im using an engine that had an AT on it, and my last engine had an AT on it. I had no problems NOT replacing the pilot bearing and using my 5spd.
Originally Posted by matts95max
From what I gathered the pilot bearing is for the alignment tool. To line up your clutch. the bearing has a smaller diameter than the input shaft because it has nothing to do with the shaft going into it. Once the bearing is in the crank, the alignment tool should slide right in that bearing giving you a nice, good fit for lining up the clutch. If im wrong some1 inform me but that is how I understood its purpose.
Marlon I have been tryin to call you to see whats goin on?!
Marlon I have been tryin to call you to see whats goin on?!
I'm going to try and punch it in when I get off of work tonight, and take care of a few problems, so hopefully around midnight or later I'll get to go back to the garage and wrap up.
Sup Man, its been crazy lately, my beater got in a wrech and almost started a 4 car pile up. I'll give you the details on that but from the time that happened sunday morning till today, dealing with that issue has kept me pretty busy. I might part it out, I just gotta go see the car and find out the damage on it (if any. . . which I hope not)
I'll call you when I get off of work, (they dont let us use our cell phones here)
#20
When I did my motor swap on my 95 I got an engine that was mounted to an A/T. What we did was cut the metal ring out so that we could put the pilot bearing in. After we did that the pilot bearing went right in. Does this make sense? We cut it out with a dremel cut off wheel, and it will take a little while.
#21
wow that sux about the beater! we will talk about that later! good thing you didnt get hurt!
umm..ok think about this....that is a little brass piece(the pilot bearing) In order to get the tranny all the way on the motor, you use those nice thick bolts and that bring the tranny as close to the block as possible when fully tight. I am almost positive that the shaft doesnt touch the bearing. Because when bolted up to the block thats as far as the tranny will and is suppose to go.
If the bearing acts as a spacer so the shaft wont go too far in, that means it will stop the shaft from going in if it is too long(because u say it wont go in easy) and if it is too short..it doesnt act as a spacer because then nothing touches it....less it is as long as the exact distance from the back of the inside of that hole it goes in from the end of the shaft. If Nissan engineers factored that distance, they know how far it will go in once the bellhousing is bolted up. BUT that means that the bellhousing will only allow it(when that gets bolted flush to the block) to go soo far. so its not going to go too far.
There or not the tranny shaft isnt going to go father than the bellhousing lets it, therefore it works the other way to, if that stops it from going too far, then the tranny wont bolt up to the block...dont force(punch) it in there if it wont go. I dont remember having the issue you are having.
haha funny ? did you buy the 3.0 pilot bearing? or the 3.5? is there a difference in diameter? The holes on either crank may be slightly different?
umm..ok think about this....that is a little brass piece(the pilot bearing) In order to get the tranny all the way on the motor, you use those nice thick bolts and that bring the tranny as close to the block as possible when fully tight. I am almost positive that the shaft doesnt touch the bearing. Because when bolted up to the block thats as far as the tranny will and is suppose to go.
If the bearing acts as a spacer so the shaft wont go too far in, that means it will stop the shaft from going in if it is too long(because u say it wont go in easy) and if it is too short..it doesnt act as a spacer because then nothing touches it....less it is as long as the exact distance from the back of the inside of that hole it goes in from the end of the shaft. If Nissan engineers factored that distance, they know how far it will go in once the bellhousing is bolted up. BUT that means that the bellhousing will only allow it(when that gets bolted flush to the block) to go soo far. so its not going to go too far.
There or not the tranny shaft isnt going to go father than the bellhousing lets it, therefore it works the other way to, if that stops it from going too far, then the tranny wont bolt up to the block...dont force(punch) it in there if it wont go. I dont remember having the issue you are having.
haha funny ? did you buy the 3.0 pilot bearing? or the 3.5? is there a difference in diameter? The holes on either crank may be slightly different?
#23
Originally Posted by Apparition
I'm listening to you and hear ya loud and clear.. But, I can't shake this feeling that has to do with greatly paid engineers in Japan designing my 4th Gen with a bearing that has no purpose. Somehow, just somehow that sounds like a very illogical thing to do.
Or, another engine uses the same crankshaft (or crankshaft casting) and on that engine/tranny the input bushing is used.
Or, in testing it was found the input shaft worked better without engagement.
Dave
#24
Originally Posted by cardana24
When I did my motor swap on my 95 I got an engine that was mounted to an A/T. What we did was cut the metal ring out so that we could put the pilot bearing in. After we did that the pilot bearing went right in. Does this make sense? We cut it out with a dremel cut off wheel, and it will take a little while.
Originally Posted by matts95max
haha funny ? did you buy the 3.0 pilot bearing? or the 3.5? is there a difference in diameter? The holes on either crank may be slightly different?
#25
Originally Posted by matts95max
In order to get the tranny all the way on the motor, you use those nice thick bolts and that bring the tranny as close to the block as possible when fully tight.
as for the pilot bearing, im thinking its to align the clutch as well. which deffinatly should be done. which means the pilot bearing is needed.
#27
Originally Posted by willard00
NO! dont use bolts to bring it tight against the block! there is a reason why the tranny would not be fitting in and by using bolts and forcing it closer youre just doing damage. use a tranny jack, and just slide it in after lining up the clutch and everything. if it doesnt go, back it out and make sure its going in straight...and try again. DO NOT FORCE IT IN WITH BOLTS!
as for the pilot bearing, im thinking its to align the clutch as well. which deffinatly should be done. which means the pilot bearing is needed.
as for the pilot bearing, im thinking its to align the clutch as well. which deffinatly should be done. which means the pilot bearing is needed.
#28
NO! dont use bolts to bring it tight against the block! there is a reason why the tranny would not be fitting in and by using bolts and forcing it closer youre just doing damage. use a tranny jack, and just slide it in after lining up the clutch and everything. if it doesnt go, back it out and make sure its going in straight...and try again. DO NOT FORCE IT IN WITH BOLTS!
Marlon that a boy! using good ole' muscle, show that tranny what it is! I have done it many of times with hands, but on the last time found it was nice using my cherry picker and a chain. becuase then I just guide it with out using much engergy. But make sure you have the chains on really good, so that the tranny wont fall out! lol!
Let me know if the bearings are the same size!
-Matt
#29
A tip:
if you're using something to hold the tranny from above, run a single rope/strap around the tranny along the seam where the two tranny housing halves come together. A standard 4th gen tranny will balance perfectly this way, making it very easy to coax onto the dowel pins. Once it's on the dowel pins, it doesn't take a lot of force to keep it on the engine - just one finger-tight bolt is plenty.
And I want to reiterate, if you show me a 4th gen tranny input shaft that engages the input bushing, I'll loan you my $150 pilot bearing puller tool to change it for free. Because I've never seen one. The only thing that ever touches that bushing is the clutch alignment tool.
Dave
if you're using something to hold the tranny from above, run a single rope/strap around the tranny along the seam where the two tranny housing halves come together. A standard 4th gen tranny will balance perfectly this way, making it very easy to coax onto the dowel pins. Once it's on the dowel pins, it doesn't take a lot of force to keep it on the engine - just one finger-tight bolt is plenty.
And I want to reiterate, if you show me a 4th gen tranny input shaft that engages the input bushing, I'll loan you my $150 pilot bearing puller tool to change it for free. Because I've never seen one. The only thing that ever touches that bushing is the clutch alignment tool.
Dave
#30
*Update:*
What is wrong with this picture?
the pilot bearing wont fit in, its the same size and the inner part on the engine. It wont fit on.
Now when look at advanced auto parts site for a pilot bearing I get this pic
I'm just tryin to get the pilot bearing (the small circular piece) in to the engine but either this part I have is too large, or I'm not installing it properly
this is how it looked on my old motor
Am I installing the pilot bushing wrong?
the pilot bearing wont fit in, its the same size and the inner part on the engine. It wont fit on.
Now when look at advanced auto parts site for a pilot bearing I get this pic
I'm just tryin to get the pilot bearing (the small circular piece) in to the engine but either this part I have is too large, or I'm not installing it properly
this is how it looked on my old motor
Am I installing the pilot bushing wrong?
#31
I will call my mechanic at nissan tomorrow, he will tell me it is only used to align the clutch up. and I will tell you what he tells me..that you wont need it. I say put the bearing on alignment tool, line up clutch using alignment tool, obviously bearing wont go in, just do it anyway to line up clutch, tighten pp to tq specs and be done! lol. thats what I say do.
* I think m/t has bearing and a/t has bushing
* I think m/t has bearing and a/t has bushing
#33
Originally Posted by matts95max
I will call my mechanic at nissan tomorrow, he will tell me it is only used to align the clutch up. and I will tell you what he tells me..that you wont need it. I say put the bearing on alignment tool, line up clutch using alignment tool, obviously bearing wont go in, just do it anyway to line up clutch, tighten pp to tq specs and be done! lol. thats what I say do.
* I think m/t has bearing and a/t has bushing
* I think m/t has bearing and a/t has bushing
#34
maybe they gave you a pilot bearing for the VG or VE lolz.. nah kidding but if it doesnt fit, one would assume something is definitely wrong as stated. Btw, I remember a few maxima replacement clutches coming with an alignment tool, with pilot bearing. So I believe the matter may be close to solved. It's simply there to help with alignment I concur with this theory.
#37
Originally Posted by diymaximakid
dude you still got the automatic pilot bushing on there.Im surprised nobody on the board noticed it.and either manual pilot bearing will work(3.0 &3.5)
See thats what I thought was in there, but I wasnt too sure. I called you to ask you but you didnt answer.
So I just need a pilot bearing remover, and buy this
then add my pilot bearing to that and mission complete.
I had a feeling it was an AT but didnt know for sure. Thanks man, back to autozone again
#38
Well it looks like all the questions have been hashed out but i want to reiterate - the input shaft can't touch the pilot bearing so no, it's not for the trans. That leaves the only logical explanation being that it is to aid in clutch alignment, which is further evidenced by the fact that the clutch alignment tool fits perfectly inside it.
I've done two maxima engine swaps, both using autos in a 5spd manual car, and never bothered to mess with the pilot bearing. I left the auto bushing in there. I've also had the transmission out of the car more times than I can count, still no use for a pilot bearing. The only logical reason for it to be there is to aid in clutch alignment which it would make easier if you have a clutch alignment tool, though the clutch alignment tool itself is rather unneccessary... I've never used one on a maxima and my clutches get aligned fine. craftsman 14mm socket with a little bit of electrical tape wrapped around it and a good eye makes for a decent clutch alignment tool. After initial alignment, I've never had to go back and realign the clutch because the input shaft wouldn't go in... it's always worked the first time knock on wood.
I've done two maxima engine swaps, both using autos in a 5spd manual car, and never bothered to mess with the pilot bearing. I left the auto bushing in there. I've also had the transmission out of the car more times than I can count, still no use for a pilot bearing. The only logical reason for it to be there is to aid in clutch alignment which it would make easier if you have a clutch alignment tool, though the clutch alignment tool itself is rather unneccessary... I've never used one on a maxima and my clutches get aligned fine. craftsman 14mm socket with a little bit of electrical tape wrapped around it and a good eye makes for a decent clutch alignment tool. After initial alignment, I've never had to go back and realign the clutch because the input shaft wouldn't go in... it's always worked the first time knock on wood.
#39
Originally Posted by Nealoc187
Well it looks like all the questions have been hashed out but i want to reiterate - the input shaft can't touch the pilot bearing so no, it's not for the trans. That leaves the only logical explanation being that it is to aid in clutch alignment, which is further evidenced by the fact that the clutch alignment tool fits perfectly inside it.
I've done two maxima engine swaps, both using autos in a 5spd manual car, and never bothered to mess with the pilot bearing. I left the auto bushing in there. I've also had the transmission out of the car more times than I can count, still no use for a pilot bearing. The only logical reason for it to be there is to aid in clutch alignment which it would make easier if you have a clutch alignment tool, though the clutch alignment tool itself is rather unneccessary... I've never used one on a maxima and my clutches get aligned fine. craftsman 14mm socket with a little bit of electrical tape wrapped around it and a good eye makes for a decent clutch alignment tool. After initial alignment, I've never had to go back and realign the clutch because the input shaft wouldn't go in... it's always worked the first time knock on wood.
I've done two maxima engine swaps, both using autos in a 5spd manual car, and never bothered to mess with the pilot bearing. I left the auto bushing in there. I've also had the transmission out of the car more times than I can count, still no use for a pilot bearing. The only logical reason for it to be there is to aid in clutch alignment which it would make easier if you have a clutch alignment tool, though the clutch alignment tool itself is rather unneccessary... I've never used one on a maxima and my clutches get aligned fine. craftsman 14mm socket with a little bit of electrical tape wrapped around it and a good eye makes for a decent clutch alignment tool. After initial alignment, I've never had to go back and realign the clutch because the input shaft wouldn't go in... it's always worked the first time knock on wood.
I’ll just return that pilot bearing that I bought and manually line it all up, I had it all lined up and ready to torque down in sequence, but I stopped because of that bushing. . . time to knock it out tonight.