I just finished up putting on C/R/P on the rear and when I press the pedal it squishes to the floor. It does return, but there is very little resistance.

Can I just bleed the rear brakes? I need it driveable for tomarrow and then I can bleed all four corners in the next few days.

Could anything else be the problem? The brake fluid level is full and it is not leaking, new washers were used on the brakelines.

This is my first time dealing with calipers so any help is appreciated.

 

i've replaced both rear calipers at different times. each time i had to bleed the brakes to get the pressure back; before i did the pedal went straight to the floor.

 

sounds normal. be sure to bleed properly. I'm not sure if the fronts will be effected but i would bleed all four to be safe.

 

you absolutely have to bleed your rear brakes after replacing those calipers! you have a ton of air in the system. you will likely be fine after bleeding just the 2 rears, but you should do the entire system for good measure. and might as well flush it while you're at it (which should be done every 3 years or so).

 

You can probably get away with bleeding the rears, but Id do all four corners. Just put her up on stands and go to town. Shouldnt take long if you have a helper to work the brake pedal.

 

Yeah as Dubbya said, I would def. do all four corners. As long as you'll have someone helping you out, might as well do all four right? That should fix it. Always has for me at least.

 

The correct order to bleed them is right rear -> left front -> left rear -> right front

 

I was under the impression it was farthest away and move closer?

I bled just the rears and the car stopped fine but I can put the pedal to the floor (with a good bit of pressure). Bleeding the brakes was very simple and I do intend to get all four corners this weekend.

My ebrake light is now on

I will probably tend to it when I bleed all around but what activates the light? I took my time and ran into no problems so I'm not quite sure why it is on. The ebrake does NOT have tension BTW, it IS disengaged.

Thanks for the opinions guys.

 

There a chance that the e-barke was set just a bit on when you reinstalled the rears? It does work when you pull up correct? Or did you mean that you have no tension at all?

 

I knew that would be kind of vague.

The "brake" light is on (red ebrake light), but the ebrake is not pulled up.

It pulls up and grabs nicely, it does not drag. Light is on though...

 

That light isn't just for the e-brake, it also gets tripped when the fluid level is low or when a hydraulic leak is detected in the system. Assuming your fluid level is ok and you don't have massive amounts of air, start looking for leaks. Two things that might help you along the way if everything is still wet from bleeding or changing out your calipers is an assistant holding the pedal down and cardboard overnight under all 4-wheels.

 

this is how the FSM tells how to do it...so follow that order

 

Will do.

It is probably the massive amount of air then, I knew I was careful with the ebrake cable.

 

A small bump for weekend thoughts...

 

Just to wrap up, I bled all four corners and I had massive amounts of air. I pretty much ended up flushing the system with all new brake fluid.

The result it good. No more brake light and very positive braking and a very progressive pedal. Thanks again for the help.