PIC of egrc selinoid valve!
#3
Originally Posted by lancer3vo
thanks a lot.... now my next concern.... how to take it out......... i really can't afford to bring my car into the shop to get it done. haha... thanks a lot for this picture though man.
#5
Originally Posted by Black Maxima
I want to replace mine because I have that code, but I bet the CEL will still be on after I replace it.
#6
Originally Posted by lancer3vo
thanks a lot.... now my next concern.... how to take it out......... i really can't afford to bring my car into the shop to get it done. haha... thanks a lot for this picture though man.
#11
it's in different location on different spec. Fed and CA...but look at the green color.
The fed is simple...the CA is a little more difficult. it's a 10mm bolt. The hard part is getting the hose off...becareful not to rush at removing the hose off. Take your time.
The fed is simple...the CA is a little more difficult. it's a 10mm bolt. The hard part is getting the hose off...becareful not to rush at removing the hose off. Take your time.
#13
ok, heres the pic for the CA spec...
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=491739
would anyone mind taking pix of the fed spec? I need to know where the top metal end leads to on the FED version. I need to know which hose connect to the bottom of the air intake manifold.
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=491739
would anyone mind taking pix of the fed spec? I need to know where the top metal end leads to on the FED version. I need to know which hose connect to the bottom of the air intake manifold.
#15
and about unscrewing the nut on the bottom.... could you show me which tools to use ?? im really no mechanic but i do know about engines and stuff... i just want to fix the damn knock sensor and egrc valve alone... i can't afford to let mechanics rip me off.... wayyyy too much. they only know one way... that's to take the manifold apart and they charge 80 bucks an hour. takes them 6 hours. :/ so i got no choice but to do it alone. i mean i know its not that risky. but it'd be great if i could get some help. thanks again
#16
When I had my '95, I replaced this sensor in about an hour or less. The hoses are a PIA to remove, so I had just bought new ones with the same inside diameter and cut the old ones off. It's just air that travels thru these hoses. The sensor is held on to a bracket with one bolt. Like someone said before, it varies in location. For mine, my car was Cali-spec, so it was located near the transmission dipstick on the left hand side. Just look for the green sensor with about three small hoses coming out of it.
#17
i know where it's located, i just need help taking the harness apart. thanks for trying to help.... i just want to know how to take the bolt from the bottom out easy. which tools to use... how to take the harness off..
#18
oh yeah, i was wondering what the EGRC Solenoid Valve is called in product name. you know how dealers would want to know the name ?? or the item number ? i really think i should replace the EGRC ASAP. been on for about 8 months now. i know its bad. or wait... maybe 10 months.... i got it along with th e KS code. but im planning on changing the EGRC first. if there's anyone who can help. please do so. much appreciated
#19
Originally Posted by lancer3vo
oh yeah, i was wondering what the EGRC Solenoid Valve is called in product name. you know how dealers would want to know the name ?? or the item number ? i really think i should replace the EGRC ASAP. been on for about 8 months now. i know its bad. or wait... maybe 10 months.... i got it along with th e KS code. but im planning on changing the EGRC first. if there's anyone who can help. please do so. much appreciated
once I had the extension in place, i held the wrench onto the bolt with one hand, and used my other hand to push / pry at the wrench with the spark plug extension. This broke the bolt free pretty easily. once it broke, i was able to loosen it the rest of the way with the wrench alone (takes a while, b/c due to the limited working space, you have to push, remove, reattach to the bolt, and repeat this process a bunch of times before you can loosen the bolt by hand.)
#20
hey man..im dealin with the BS of this part right now as well..my car is running really bad as im pretty sure ive killed this part..my question is..would you have a photo or a source to the photo of the BPT valve? i need to replace this as well but my parts guy needs a photo to match it with when looking to pull it out.
#21
thanks a lot 2pb. im going to try that this weekend when i can. is it possible to drive your car with the egrc valve off ??? just wondering.... i'd like to take it apart and just leave it out until i order a new piece. and i mean driving w/o it while i got the CEL code for it.
#26
You can try cleaning the sensor, but as with all electronic parts, they can be prone to failure. If cleaning did not work and it is still problematic, provided a wire isn't loose or broken, the sensor has failed and must be replaced.
#27
I found an easy way to remove the nut on the bottom. Get a 10mm crows foot wrench (which is basically just the end of an open end wrench), then put a socket wrench extension on it from the side and unscrew from above. It'll make sense when you see the wrench.
#28
egrc 14956-35u10
i just purchased a egrc valve and i dont know if 14956-35u10 can be used on a infiniti i30 96
http://forums.maxima.org/images/smil...eenbouncer.gif
http://forums.maxima.org/images/smil...eenbouncer.gif
#29
egrc
I need to know the part# for the egrc valve . can you help me out. http://forums.maxima.org/images/smilies/bowdown1.gif
#31
I fixed this part by taking it apart, cleaning it, and lubricating the metal moving piece inside with silicon spray.
Also broke one of the nipples in the process but fixed that with some epoxy. Some might say "But what if the epoxy covered the air hole?" I took a drill bit to it and re-opened the air passage.
Engine light went away.
Also broke one of the nipples in the process but fixed that with some epoxy. Some might say "But what if the epoxy covered the air hole?" I took a drill bit to it and re-opened the air passage.
Engine light went away.
#32
and i fixed mine wasnt even broken unbolted it and gave it away
have have less CEL's without all that crap than i had with them. I ripped the EGR ,EVAP and MAP stuff off along with other things i cant remember .
our cars are getting old this stuff is gonna start going on everyones cars
have have less CEL's without all that crap than i had with them. I ripped the EGR ,EVAP and MAP stuff off along with other things i cant remember .
our cars are getting old this stuff is gonna start going on everyones cars
#33
Originally Posted by shadyonedeath
I fixed this part by taking it apart, cleaning it, and lubricating the metal moving piece inside with silicon spray.
Also broke one of the nipples in the process but fixed that with some epoxy. Some might say "But what if the epoxy covered the air hole?" I took a drill bit to it and re-opened the air passage.
Engine light went away.
Also broke one of the nipples in the process but fixed that with some epoxy. Some might say "But what if the epoxy covered the air hole?" I took a drill bit to it and re-opened the air passage.
Engine light went away.
#35
Originally Posted by lancer3vo
is 74 bucks for the egrc valve expensive ? how much did you guys pya for them ?
#36
I think it should be under $100. I believe i paid about $65-70 for it @ the local dealer. Call up your local dealership parts dept and price it there. If their price is outrageous, check www.courtesyparts.com b/c they generally have good prices. My invoice read "Valve Assembly". The part number for it is 14956-31U10.
#37
Originally Posted by 2pb
I think it should be under $100. I believe i paid about $65-70 for it @ the local dealer. Call up your local dealership parts dept and price it there. If their price is outrageous, check www.courtesyparts.com b/c they generally have good prices. My invoice read "Valve Assembly". The part number for it is 14956-31U10.
Moderators why don't I have the "I support Maxima.org" label. I paid my dues you'all.
#38
don't mean to bring back an old thread but im going thru the 1005 now too...anyone kno if this part failing has anything to do with the knock failing? Any new ways of installing this thing...i cant get the bolt off from the bottom
#39
i couldn't take off the 10mm bolt with a regular sized comb. wrench i bought from autozone, gonna exchange it for a 10mm stubby wrench, i'm sure the stubby wrench will easily take off that b1tch bolt.
#40
I went to sears and I think it was 10 or 12mm wrench that can be angled 180 degrees.
Hope that helps.