Rough Idle-Almost Stall
#1
Rough Idle-Almost Stall
I have been experienceing some rough idle with my 99SE over the past month or so. when in traffic, the car feels like it wants to stall, the tach needle goes down to 500 rpm and bounces a little where as it used to be smooth at 700 or so. Here is what i have done so far:
Replaced the spark plugs with NGK Coppers
Cleaned the throttle body and IAC valve
I did have 2 codes 115 and 210 but i cleared them and they did not come back. I have a 140,000 miles and i never replaced any O2 sensors, do you guys think that is my problem???? Could they give a rough idle if not working properly??? Any help would be appreciated, thanks.
Replaced the spark plugs with NGK Coppers
Cleaned the throttle body and IAC valve
I did have 2 codes 115 and 210 but i cleared them and they did not come back. I have a 140,000 miles and i never replaced any O2 sensors, do you guys think that is my problem???? Could they give a rough idle if not working properly??? Any help would be appreciated, thanks.
#8
Check your intake manifold gasket (the one next to your front fuel injectors). It seems that it was poorly designed and it often pinches and gets sucked in, creating weird engine codes and poor idle conditions.
The cause of this is often caused by a clogged PCV valve. When was the last time this was replaced?
Chris: I had EXACTLY the same problem you did. I cleaned the IAC valve, ran injector cleaners, cleaned the MAF sensor screen, checked my coils, changed plugs. Was driving me nuts. When it's idling, is there a strong vacuum sound coming from your engine? You might not have noticed it before because it's a gradual thing. But it sounds like a hissing snake - the VQ engine is usually very very quiet.
The cause of this is often caused by a clogged PCV valve. When was the last time this was replaced?
Chris: I had EXACTLY the same problem you did. I cleaned the IAC valve, ran injector cleaners, cleaned the MAF sensor screen, checked my coils, changed plugs. Was driving me nuts. When it's idling, is there a strong vacuum sound coming from your engine? You might not have noticed it before because it's a gradual thing. But it sounds like a hissing snake - the VQ engine is usually very very quiet.
#10
Originally Posted by Fork
Check your intake manifold gasket (the one next to your front fuel injectors). It seems that it was poorly designed and it often pinches and gets sucked in, creating weird engine codes and poor idle conditions.
The cause of this is often caused by a clogged PCV valve. When was the last time this was replaced?
Chris: I had EXACTLY the same problem you did. I cleaned the IAC valve, ran injector cleaners, cleaned the MAF sensor screen, checked my coils, changed plugs. Was driving me nuts. When it's idling, is there a strong vacuum sound coming from your engine? You might not have noticed it before because it's a gradual thing. But it sounds like a hissing snake - the VQ engine is usually very very quiet.
The cause of this is often caused by a clogged PCV valve. When was the last time this was replaced?
Chris: I had EXACTLY the same problem you did. I cleaned the IAC valve, ran injector cleaners, cleaned the MAF sensor screen, checked my coils, changed plugs. Was driving me nuts. When it's idling, is there a strong vacuum sound coming from your engine? You might not have noticed it before because it's a gradual thing. But it sounds like a hissing snake - the VQ engine is usually very very quiet.
#14
I have the same problem,but a little difference it should be shift from P to R or to D. When I shifted the A/T from the Parking to R or D, my car have the rough engine, the idle speed is 600rpm, and when i shifted it back to P or N the engine is ok. until right now i don't know what happen, i need help too.
#17
I found my problem, it was in another post here on the org. My upper intake manifold gasket got sucked in an was leaking a lot of air. Once I fixed that, she idles smooth and steady like a new car.
#18
Same kinda prob. here, i came outa school today and i started my car, died, started, died, started and pumped the gas a lil, finally kept runnin, any ideas? I was thinkin maybe wire/plugs. Im not real familiar w/ max's yet soo..Its a 95 se
#20
thats wut im gonna try tom., im gonna get the 300zx filter, ill let you know what happens. I am also less than 1/4 tank, maybe due to fuel pump going bad, i really dont know though, but im gonna try the filter first. Plus, it just seems to do it when its cold.
#21
filter isnt imporant at this point unless you know it's old. You probably need to check the fuel pump and all the plugs and wires. Possibly coils as well.
Jextel what do you mean? Your needle was under E then you put gas in and it worked? Or you put in gas and the needle stayed at E?
Jextel what do you mean? Your needle was under E then you put gas in and it worked? Or you put in gas and the needle stayed at E?
#22
Originally Posted by Cdg2125
filter isnt imporant at this point unless you know it's old. You probably need to check the fuel pump and all the plugs and wires. Possibly coils as well.
Jextel what do you mean? Your needle was under E then you put gas in and it worked? Or you put in gas and the needle stayed at E?
Jextel what do you mean? Your needle was under E then you put gas in and it worked? Or you put in gas and the needle stayed at E?
#23
Hey there RockfordMaxII-
I'm the guy that sold you the car a couple weeks ago. I thought you'd want to know that both the spark plugs and fuel filter have been changed VERY recently (within 1,500 miles). Though the car never gave me any hard starting to speak of, it does seem to be a fairly common 4th gen issue. You may want to try cleaning the IAC valve http://forums.maxima.org/showpost.ph...27&postcount=2 and you may also want to buy some throttle body/intake cleaner spray and, well, clean the throttle body and intake. Make sure you use a toothbrush (or similar- perhaps longer brush) and get inside the manifold really well.
I'm the guy that sold you the car a couple weeks ago. I thought you'd want to know that both the spark plugs and fuel filter have been changed VERY recently (within 1,500 miles). Though the car never gave me any hard starting to speak of, it does seem to be a fairly common 4th gen issue. You may want to try cleaning the IAC valve http://forums.maxima.org/showpost.ph...27&postcount=2 and you may also want to buy some throttle body/intake cleaner spray and, well, clean the throttle body and intake. Make sure you use a toothbrush (or similar- perhaps longer brush) and get inside the manifold really well.
#24
hmm, great, thanks james. I am gonna try cleaning tonight, hopefully that takes care of it. P.S. the car ran a 16.007 at byron (im not too great at the track yet). Also james, when was the oil last changed? I have synthetic that i was gonna put in it. THanks, Matt.
#26
I'm very glad to hear that worked for you.
Last oil change was maybe 2,000 miles ago. If you're going to do one soon, I'd suggest changing the oil pan gasket at the same time (remember we talked about that.) I've never noticed any drips- but I'm sure it won't be long before you do.
Last oil change was maybe 2,000 miles ago. If you're going to do one soon, I'd suggest changing the oil pan gasket at the same time (remember we talked about that.) I've never noticed any drips- but I'm sure it won't be long before you do.
#27
So I cleaned my IACV, and my Throttle Body (this made a huge difference in performance at idle and low end). I also changed my PCV valve. I have had no issues with IDLE or stalling since doing these things!
I posted this in another thread, but this might be helpful, this tool is GREAT when trying to remove the various rubber hoses (like when cleaning the throttle body) and its cheap:
http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-LIS47900...dp/B000GTMMJC/
I posted this in another thread, but this might be helpful, this tool is GREAT when trying to remove the various rubber hoses (like when cleaning the throttle body) and its cheap:
http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-LIS47900...dp/B000GTMMJC/
#28
[QUOTE=Fork]Check your intake manifold gasket (the one next to your front fuel injectors). It seems that it was poorly designed and it often pinches and gets sucked in, creating weird engine codes and poor idle conditions.
Is this intake manifold gasket problem common on a 5th gen as well?
Is this intake manifold gasket problem common on a 5th gen as well?
#29
[QUOTE=5spd2000SE]
We're not 5th gen forum. 5th gen IM is different than 4th gen so the gaskets are not the same. 5th gen has grove in the UIM that holds the round gasket and 4th gen sits on top. Different designs, different problems.
Originally Posted by Fork
Check your intake manifold gasket (the one next to your front fuel injectors). It seems that it was poorly designed and it often pinches and gets sucked in, creating weird engine codes and poor idle conditions.
Is this intake manifold gasket problem common on a 5th gen as well?
Is this intake manifold gasket problem common on a 5th gen as well?
#30
Originally Posted by illCaptain
Mine does that too. I've got a 98 with a knock sensor code and an evap solenoid code.
Could it be a vacume leak?
Could it be a vacume leak?
Originally Posted by EnervinE
If you've got an evap code just remove your gas cap and screw it back on tight, clear codes, you're good.
EDIT: ah god damn noobs. didnt realize this was an old post.
#32
Rough Idle
I have gone through this for the past year or more.I have changed the plugs, cleaned the IAC valve,throttle body, new k&n air filter,6 new mitsubishi coils, knock sensor changed, grounding kit, and only use 92 fuel. I have noticed that the car idles smooth when cold, however as soon as car hits normal operating temp, the idles gets crappy, vibrating when in DR or REV. I am going to change the intake manifold gasket & change the O2 sensors as this has been driving me nuts for too long and I have done everything else, but I love the car,its my only complaint.
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