Clutch replacement time...
Clutch replacement time...
A little background first...
I currently have an ACT 6 puck (stage2) clutch and it needs to be replaced. I also have an Unorthodox Flywheel. I want to replace it with the same thing and I really don't feel like attempting to do this job myself. I am mechanically inclined, but when it comes to dropping a trans, I am not too confident (nor do I have the time or place to do it). I realize I am going to pay about $500-600 to get this done. My question is does anyone else have this setup (or something similar)? I've looked at the ACT setup I have online and it seems that I just need to buy the single 6 puck clutch disc (or am I wrong?). Also, one of the shops I asked about doing this said something about re-surfacing the flywheel. I've looked at the Unorthodox web site and it states that they have replaceable "Heat shields" and that you cannot re-surface these. Does anyone know if this is the case? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I currently have an ACT 6 puck (stage2) clutch and it needs to be replaced. I also have an Unorthodox Flywheel. I want to replace it with the same thing and I really don't feel like attempting to do this job myself. I am mechanically inclined, but when it comes to dropping a trans, I am not too confident (nor do I have the time or place to do it). I realize I am going to pay about $500-600 to get this done. My question is does anyone else have this setup (or something similar)? I've looked at the ACT setup I have online and it seems that I just need to buy the single 6 puck clutch disc (or am I wrong?). Also, one of the shops I asked about doing this said something about re-surfacing the flywheel. I've looked at the Unorthodox web site and it states that they have replaceable "Heat shields" and that you cannot re-surface these. Does anyone know if this is the case? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
You haven't mentioned what torque you're putting down, which is possibly the most important parameter.
Clutches should only be as heavy as necessary - you will get rougher engagement, faster wear, and more driveline shock (aka broken trannys and axles) using more clutch than you need.
Dave
Clutches should only be as heavy as necessary - you will get rougher engagement, faster wear, and more driveline shock (aka broken trannys and axles) using more clutch than you need.
Dave
Right now I think I'm a little over stock. I have intake, full exhaust (except headers), flywheel (obviously), computer, and some other minor things. I am planning on boosting hopefully soon. I am also going to be getting a LSD soon too as well. I bought the car with the clutch and flywheel already installed and I liked the response (even though it took a little getting used to at first).
i hear that u should stick with the stock clutch untill you pass 300whp. so with just boost and no internals even then i would stick with a stock or stage one setup. stock for now untill you boost if you think it will be a long time befor you make that jump.
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CorollaULEV
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Aug 9, 2021 08:11 PM




