ah i gotcha, maybe i should stick to the safc-11 or vafc-11. you dont have to datalog to tune with these tools? or...whats with that?

 

I made no such statement. I think tuning apears much more harder than it is. Plus using the SAFCII or VAFCII where you add point of fuel at a given rpm, isnt hat difficult at all, esecially after you get a rought idea of how much fuel a point might take off.

You can do it chillion014, i know you can, get a nice AFC controller and make somw tweaks here and there, you 00vi will love it.

 

you can't raise the rev limit with the neither s-afc or a v-afc and there are lots of other features too like data logging and so forth. The wb o2 is pricey, but if you get it dyno tunned it might be cheaper??

 

i know, i was just joking around a little. what price differences are we lookin at?
either way we are talking about getting a wideband 02 though right?

 

mdeezy clean your PM box or get on aim man! (trunk lock)

 

That’s true, I was just putting my point out there cause it seemed as it might appear the EU was really the only/best to tune. Honnestly it is but incase some are intimidated by such a tool, the SAFCII and VAFCII among other can do the job as well. If one is able to yes get the EU, raise the limited, adjust fuel, advance/retard timing.

Certain WBo2 can datalog A/F ratios, and a decent ODB II software could datalog the rest of the car. Of course EU is the best all in one package plus a wbo2.


if someone has a EU already, you could get a linear WBo2 for about $80.

If one were going with a VAFC2 or SAFC2 or other, a datalogging wbo2 would be good. Around the ~$250 - $400 range.

 

but how much is the EU. what brand/product are we talking about here.

 

Eu goes for about $600 pretty much the same cost of the JWT. a linear wb02 would be about $80. So let say $700 at the most and you can pull a lot more power out of your car.

 

...and not just power, there are TONS of cool features with that thing.

 

Their on ebay with harness for 585 shipped so yeah pretty much 600
http://cgi.ebay.com/GREDDY-E-MANAGE-...QQcmdZViewItem

 

Babymac: Im getting the EU installed on my car right now at Xotic Motorsports. They are running into some problems with the car but otherwise its going alright. My max is the first to have the EU installed on it up there but they have installed it on many other cars. It will cost about 600 to get the EU installed and dyno tuned if you cant do it yourself.

 

Your car is supercharged right? And wouldn't that make things a little more difficult?? Your starting to scare me

 

yea its sc'ed but i dont think that should complicate things. My car is just very weird. But the prices shouldnt change at all.

 

I would definitely do it myself and I think the boost complicates it alot.

 

I am not really confident on what all EU can do (except tune and datalog). Does EU integrate with TC/SC or NOS? Could you use it as a boost controller? I am just wondering cause that would be really cool if you were boosted and/or spraying and have it ALL done by the mighty EU.

 

have u checked the eu thread in the s/c'd t/b'd section? there are reistors to solder in, jumpers to set. . .

 

Babymac I can help you out if you're doing it yourself. Setup is not usually much different being boosted vs N/A, just the tune is a bit different. And SC is simpler than TC.

I have a write-up in the works, it's just taking me a bit longer than I originally hoped because I've been busy with the move into a new house, painting and drywall repair etc, but even if I'm not 100% done I can send you some of the drawings, diagrams, pinouts etc...

How's that going? I haven't heard from Andy lately.. are they finding the crank wiring issue?

 

Yes, yes and yes. For a boost controller you will need to get a solenoid though. The EU can do a lot of things, and its outputs can be used to activate several kinds of devices, whatever you can think of... switch relays, turn on fans, boost solenoids, rpm switch for a VI etc etc, Jime's shift mod for autos, all done by the EU. Go to Greddy's website and look through the feature list and download the pdf manuals and browse through them, it'll give you a better idea of it's capabilities. It's a lot to type all out...

 

I definitely will hold you to that offer!

thanks ALOT

 

Don't take this the wrong way or anything, but you point to your sig to show how great your 1/4 time is from tuning and whatnot. But don't forget to give credit to your awesome traction! holy cow I wish I could pull off a 1.7 60' time! Don't expect after you do the VI and boltons and some tuning to be running low 13's UNLESS you have a good suspension setup and some wide badass DR or slicks. I think it goes for every .1 you take off your '60 it takes off roughly .2 in your total 1/4 et. Which makes me point out my earlier post, all the tuning and managment tools, ecu's, modifying and messing with the manifolds, some good wide sticky tires and a nice stiff suspention and you got 13 flat. Or a $500 NX kit + a saturday afternoon to install it, pair of wide sticky tires and a decent suspention and you will also be doing 13 flat

 

babymac what you should do is sit down and say what do I want the car to do and how much do I really want to spent, then start buying the pieces that will get you there. You said this is your daily driver and I know you like to drag and you said you do not street race, so looks like you need a car you can count on and not something thats going to have alot of down time while you install this tune that. Now if you have another car to drive case you get stuck on a project and tons of time to play with the car then it does not matter. Remember the old saying keep it simple.

You already bought the mevi, so the next step is a eu or jwt ecu. Well we talked about this yesterday I say the eu cause you can make changes as you upgrade and like you stated before setup another program for nitrous. You can not run a big shot of nitrous with the jwt ecu, less you get the nitrous ecu from them but it's still only for a 65shot and then there's the cost and time they take forever getting you the damn ecu back.

take your time do not rush, that way you only have to do things once, and remember the track closes in like 3weeks anyway

 

I have a jwt in the waiting, so that takes care of that and for a good price I might add. I am also looking for a stock ecu in case i decide to run nitrous, so that takes care of that. I am just scared of splicing into my wires and tunning gets to become a pain in the *** too. I just want plug and play.

oh and Cecil is open all year(better track too)

btw nice race last night!

 

good idea getting a stock ecu and jwt, I am guess stock for the track and jwt for the street. I was goin to do that do on the street I just cruise on the street less I go down south philly. question if your t/s ecu only has the a/f ratio tune and the timing has not be bumped up can you just run nitrous on that

oh and how far is cecil since now I now which way to turn my disturbor

 

I think the ts does have the advanced timing. It has a really kick in the midrange thats why my 1/8's are like 9.6 @ like 74-75 mph, but after that it just falls flat on its face, no top end whatsoever. So I think the ecu really helps your midrage, but I need that higher rev-limit with my mevi. I think the 00vi people would really benefit from this ecu.

cecil is about a hour from philly.

 

With the MEVI, the stock rev limiter comes in too fast, cuts the fun too early.

 

Thats why you and i will be making a transaction very very soon.

btw do you have a ecu to put in your max once you sell the jwt??

 

Sure do. JWT takes a long time to do the job, so I bought a junkyard unit to fill in during the time it took them to do whatever it is they do.

 

cool just making sure.

 

cool just making sure.

I have one more question when you let the tranny shift itself where does it shift at wot with the new rev limiter?

 

No offense taken, and I apologize if my post was misleading, but I did not state (or mean to infer) that my 1/4 mile times are just due to the EU tuning--I was thinking more about the power level. Having said that, the EU is a significant part of the 1/4 mile though, if you add in the rev limit increase, but yes you are right, the times are not due to any one thing in particular, it's the sum of a whole lot of little things working together that gives the result.

And yes you could slap on some nitrous instead of doing the N/A thing but to me it's the easy way out...

Oh and in my experience the 60 ft to 1/4 ET ratio is more like .1 to .12-.15. It's a little optimistic to get a full 2 tenths I think. Even with mid 1.8 60 fts I was still running 13.1's or low 13.2's, depending on weather

 

Still shifts at the same RPM (~6000) But if you shift manually ( ) , it will bounce off @ ~7200 RPM. Look into the shift_fast mod for better consistency.

 

Yeah because I tried that manual shifting and had no luck whatsoever. I will definitely look into the shift fast mod

 

Can you show me some posts on this mod?
thanks

 

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=499738

Check Tatanko's website as well.

 

Thankyou yet again.

 

Hey if you do not feel like wiring up your tranny, you could hookup a tach with a programable shift light

 

definitely a Idea ,but for a barely 14 second car(hopefully) I feel kinda ricey doing that???I don't know we'll see.

 

If you dont want to wire it up then just keep shifting manually. Not worth wiring up a light either. I'm working on another shift_fast style mod as well.

 

On my A33B, I get decently consistent shifts with my 'instinct'

6925 - 6980 .. My tach reads 7300 though

 

On my A33B, I get decently consistent shifts with my 'instinct'

6925 - 6980 .. My tach reads 7300 though