Where to get decent Indiglo gauges?
U mean the SE gauges right? best thing is a junk yard, visit www.car-parts.com and loook under instrument cluster...
Originally Posted by venompwr2
I bought these off of ebay for about $20, but mine glow either light blue, or green. not sure if I got a lower quality version, but it was hell to get them installed, all needles were sticking, even though I used the thinnest double sided tape that I could find. The problem was that the screws holding in the stock gauges were causing the new gauges to stick out slightly, and my needles were all getting snagged.
What I ended up doing was carefully drilling holes in the new gauges, and removing the stock gauge screws, and screwing the new gauges in over the old gauges. Even after doing this, my tach needle was still sticking slightly at about 2500-3000 RPM's, so I had to take a razor and gently scrape at the center of the gauge, since there was too much friction between the base of the needle and the gauge. Once I did all of that, everything was golden, though. I paired the gauges with the CE woodgrain gauge bezel and it looks really good.
Yea I kinda though they would look ricey but I reaaly wanted something other than stock and I got the same ones that are in the Org. banner at the top there,like 17 bucks shipped on ebay. When I installed them I disconnected the factory dash lights so at night when I turn them on only the numbers light up blue and the "inner" part of the gauges barely light at all. At first I had a hard time seeing the needles at night since my needle are white,so I grabbed some black ones and it helped alot. Like I said for 17 bucks they are cool, Iw ouldnt have paid the 55 for them from CE. Also install was pretty easy since I wasnt worried about the old gauges,cut them of so I didnt have to remove the needles as I heard that can be tricky. Here are the pics.
http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r...abyPics001.jpg
I still had the white needles on then and I had just got done doing them so the front of the gauge glass was all finger printed up but you can get the idea.
http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r...abyPics002.jpg
http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r...abyPics001.jpg
I still had the white needles on then and I had just got done doing them so the front of the gauge glass was all finger printed up but you can get the idea.
http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r...abyPics002.jpg
I like my reverse indiglos, they don't look cheap to me.
These are the procarparts reverse indiglos, it's silver in the daytime and well, as seen in pic at night.
In the daytime, you can see a gap around the needles but it doesn't bother me. Also, the transformer hums ... I have mine pretty well insulated so it's not loud.
These are the procarparts reverse indiglos, it's silver in the daytime and well, as seen in pic at night.
In the daytime, you can see a gap around the needles but it doesn't bother me. Also, the transformer hums ... I have mine pretty well insulated so it's not loud.
Originally Posted by pocketrocket
I like my reverse indiglos, they don't look cheap to me.
These are the procarparts reverse indiglos, it's silver in the daytime and well, as seen in pic at night.
In the daytime, you can see a gap around the needles but it doesn't bother me. Also, the transformer hums ... I have mine pretty well insulated so it's not loud.

These are the procarparts reverse indiglos, it's silver in the daytime and well, as seen in pic at night.
In the daytime, you can see a gap around the needles but it doesn't bother me. Also, the transformer hums ... I have mine pretty well insulated so it's not loud.

Originally Posted by Cdg2125
Forget those cheap reverse indiglo needles. They look
. Get 97-99 SE gauges and do LED's. Much better. And shouldn't be too expensive.
. Get 97-99 SE gauges and do LED's. Much better. And shouldn't be too expensive.Also does anyone know of anywhere that I could find indiglow guages that have km/h as the primary unit, not mph???
No I mistaken then. I didnt remember all SE gauges were the same. Needles should never be swapped or moved. F's things up. If you have SE gauges I dont think Indiglos will look good. Why not just LED them? Much cheaper and looks so much better then indiglo gauges.
i might havta take my tach appart to replace the motor anyways so i'll havta take the needle off, there are instructions on the net somwhere of the proper way to do it.
are the 95-96 and 97-99 needles threaded the same?
are the 95-96 and 97-99 needles threaded the same?
Originally Posted by Cdg2125
No I mistaken then. I didnt remember all SE gauges were the same. Needles should never be swapped or moved. F's things up. If you have SE gauges I dont think Indiglos will look good. Why not just LED them? Much cheaper and looks so much better then indiglo gauges.
Originally Posted by Godson
Oh dont get me wrong bro,some will remember in here that I all started a post in a frenzy to find out what kinda sweet *** gauges I saw in a video of some Max, I love them. But its still a preference,you say they look better,I say meh maybe. Also I have zero ability to do an LED install,if I could I probably would have but for 17 bucks shipped and an hour to install, I'm happy. Ive only had the car less than year,Im sure it wont be the last time I change them things
Hayens manuals and online how to's explain how to remove the guages and replace the bulbs.
The 97+ with the digital odo has a diagnostic mode that will set the needle at a particular spot.
So technically, you could put it in diag mode to sweep and fix the needles, then mark the spot on the gauge, take the needles off carefully to install your gauge overlays, put it back in to diag, then realign the needles and set them.
I'd recommend you don't remove all the needles at once, keep one needle on so you will know when it is in diag mode.
So technically, you could put it in diag mode to sweep and fix the needles, then mark the spot on the gauge, take the needles off carefully to install your gauge overlays, put it back in to diag, then realign the needles and set them.
I'd recommend you don't remove all the needles at once, keep one needle on so you will know when it is in diag mode.
It's been recomended to not take any needle off. If you can get around it, find the way. LED upgrade do need resistors. The only thing that doesnt is replacing 194 bulbs in the 95-96. The 97-99 need to be rewired for 194 bulbs and resistors are needed for the LED's. Not hard. Just solder the resistors to the led. The longer wire from the resistor is the positive wire.
Originally Posted by Cdg2125
It's been recomended to not take any needle off. If you can get around it, find the way. LED upgrade do need resistors. The only thing that doesnt is replacing 194 bulbs in the 95-96. The 97-99 need to be rewired for 194 bulbs and resistors are needed for the LED's. Not hard. Just solder the resistors to the led. The longer wire from the resistor is the positive wire.
No, 95-96 have 194 bulbs. 97-99 have 74 bulbs. You need to change things around and dremel the holes to fit 194 bulbs in a 97-99. Any LED added to the car needs a resistor. Go look it up if you dont believe me. I'm talking real LED's. Not just designated # LED's. A real LED install is with 3mm or 5mm LED's. They need resistors to be wired to the boards to have the LED's work correctly. That's for the switches,climate control and doing the needles.
And yea, i've read plenty of threads about people moving their needles. They marked them and eveything and the needles did not work when they put things back together. It's the best idea not to remove them if you dont need to. There are ways around removing them.
And yea, i've read plenty of threads about people moving their needles. They marked them and eveything and the needles did not work when they put things back together. It's the best idea not to remove them if you dont need to. There are ways around removing them.
do you own a 97? i own 2 and have done LED conversions on 4 (one of them being an I30). instead of you always "looking stuff up" and giving misinformation perhaps you should speak on things you actually have hands on experience with. there are vendors who sell LED bulbs with resistors already built in. hence it being plug and play. i removed my needles last week in order to fix my tach and it works perfectly. and as far as clocks are concerned 95-97 are the same. dont know about 98-99.
and as an aside, there are 194/168 plug and play bulbs as well as 74 plug adn play. when i originally did my car i bought 74 thinking that was the proper size and exchanged them for the proper ones. no dremlleing. the only time you will need resistors is if you plan on changingthe lights in your dimmer/cruise/hazzard/defroster switches or if you plan on changing the bulbs in your climate control (manual).
and as an aside, there are 194/168 plug and play bulbs as well as 74 plug adn play. when i originally did my car i bought 74 thinking that was the proper size and exchanged them for the proper ones. no dremlleing. the only time you will need resistors is if you plan on changingthe lights in your dimmer/cruise/hazzard/defroster switches or if you plan on changing the bulbs in your climate control (manual).
I just said that you need resistors for all the other stuff. I'm sure you're right with the 97 but from what I've read and been told the others need to be wired. You dont always need hands on experience with things to know about them. Maybe I'm wrong about the 97 thats fine. Point is I've never once seen true LED's with resistors built in. The real LED mod you need LED's plus the resistors. That's the mod I'm talking about. Plug and play LED's are not the same as the true LED's Im talking about. For the 3mm and 5mm LED's that other people use you need to wire resistors to the LED's and the boards. I'm not giving misinformation. If so then go talk to the guys that have done the LED work and tell them they are wrong.
is it possible to get reverse gauges in km/h rather then mph? cause i live in canada and it would be alot more practical. everywhere i look i can only find them with the mph as the big numbers. will i just have to settle with the mph.
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