Someone help me with this
#1
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Heres whats up, I got a new Nissan clutch put in about a month ago and it has no good grab at all. If you shift 1-2 hard the first time it almost barks, it ALMOST has enough grab but not quite. After that it is awful, it will slip terribly. Like after you slam it it will "rev down" and slip for at least a full second. I know this isn't normal, my clutch should be tight, it should bark second easily, my old clutch with 64,000 miles would bark it all day long. I replaced it cause I was having tranny work done and it was only 200 bucks. It was not a "Key Value clutch". I am wondering what exactly the problem is here. I guess they messed up on something but what could it be exactly? Is it my clutch or the throwout bearing or flywheel or what exactly? I mean, it has to have something to do with the clutch, right? I am taking it to the dealer Monday and I want to be prepared to deal with them/know what to say if they try to tell me that they won't fix or that it's not their fault. So if anyone has any info/suggestions please help me out....thanks.
#3
Originally posted by MaxedOut97SE
Heres whats up, I got a new Nissan clutch put in about a month ago and it has no good grab at all. If you shift 1-2 hard the first time it almost barks, it ALMOST has enough grab but not quite. After that it is awful, it will slip terribly. Like after you slam it it will "rev down" and slip for at least a full second. I know this isn't normal, my clutch should be tight, it should bark second easily, my old clutch with 64,000 miles would bark it all day long. I replaced it cause I was having tranny work done and it was only 200 bucks. It was not a "Key Value clutch". I am wondering what exactly the problem is here. I guess they messed up on something but what could it be exactly? Is it my clutch or the throwout bearing or flywheel or what exactly? I mean, it has to have something to do with the clutch, right? I am taking it to the dealer Monday and I want to be prepared to deal with them/know what to say if they try to tell me that they won't fix or that it's not their fault. So if anyone has any info/suggestions please help me out....thanks.
Heres whats up, I got a new Nissan clutch put in about a month ago and it has no good grab at all. If you shift 1-2 hard the first time it almost barks, it ALMOST has enough grab but not quite. After that it is awful, it will slip terribly. Like after you slam it it will "rev down" and slip for at least a full second. I know this isn't normal, my clutch should be tight, it should bark second easily, my old clutch with 64,000 miles would bark it all day long. I replaced it cause I was having tranny work done and it was only 200 bucks. It was not a "Key Value clutch". I am wondering what exactly the problem is here. I guess they messed up on something but what could it be exactly? Is it my clutch or the throwout bearing or flywheel or what exactly? I mean, it has to have something to do with the clutch, right? I am taking it to the dealer Monday and I want to be prepared to deal with them/know what to say if they try to tell me that they won't fix or that it's not their fault. So if anyone has any info/suggestions please help me out....thanks.
1) Is there the normal amount of free play at the top of the clutch pedal travel? If not, there may be a problem with the hydraulic clutch actuator. Please refer to the Chilton repair manual (page 7-9) or the Haynes repair manual (page 8-6).
2) They billed you for a new clutch but "forgot" to install it. You are experiencing a worn-out factory-installed clutch.
3) They installed a new clutch, but used the wrong part.
4) The bolts which secure the clutch cover (a/k/a pressure plate) to the flywheel are not tight.
5) The rear main seal is leaking. The clutch is a friction device. Oil on the clutch interferes with normal operation.
#5
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Originally posted by Daniel B. Martin
This is purely speculative...
1) Is there the normal amount of free play at the top of the clutch pedal travel? If not, there may be a problem with the hydraulic clutch actuator. Please refer to the Chilton repair manual (page 7-9) or the Haynes repair manual (page 8-6).
2) They billed you for a new clutch but "forgot" to install it. You are experiencing a worn-out factory-installed clutch.
3) They installed a new clutch, but used the wrong part.
4) The bolts which secure the clutch cover (a/k/a pressure plate) to the flywheel are not tight.
5) The rear main seal is leaking. The clutch is a friction device. Oil on the clutch interferes with normal operation.
This is purely speculative...
1) Is there the normal amount of free play at the top of the clutch pedal travel? If not, there may be a problem with the hydraulic clutch actuator. Please refer to the Chilton repair manual (page 7-9) or the Haynes repair manual (page 8-6).
2) They billed you for a new clutch but "forgot" to install it. You are experiencing a worn-out factory-installed clutch.
3) They installed a new clutch, but used the wrong part.
4) The bolts which secure the clutch cover (a/k/a pressure plate) to the flywheel are not tight.
5) The rear main seal is leaking. The clutch is a friction device. Oil on the clutch interferes with normal operation.
Thank you for the info. I have another question. So if it is one of the possibilities that you listed, will the dealer be obligated to fix it? I know there is a 12/12 warranty but I am afriad they are going to tell me that it is my fault or something.
#6
Originally posted by MaxedOut97SE
Thank you for the info. I have another question. So if it is one of the possibilities that you listed, will the dealer be obligated to fix it? I know there is a 12/12 warranty but I am afriad they are going to tell me that it is my fault or something.
Thank you for the info. I have another question. So if it is one of the possibilities that you listed, will the dealer be obligated to fix it? I know there is a 12/12 warranty but I am afriad they are going to tell me that it is my fault or something.
If the rear main seal is leaking, that is not the dealer's fault. You will have to pay for a new rear main seal and a new clutch driven disk. Maybe you can negotiate with them... convince them that they should have noticed the leaky seal when they did the clutch job, and therefore ought to split the repair bill with you 50%-50%.
If the problem is from any of the other causes then an honest and competent dealership will admit their mistakes and pay the whole bill. Is your dealership honest and competent?
#8
Actually, they probably did put in a new clutch. It just wasnt a new nissan clutch. Usually the dealer will give you a great price quote on clutch or brake pad replacement...this is because they do not use nissan OEM replacement parts. They use "Nissan Key Value" parts. These parts suck. Make sure you get them to put in a genuine OEM replacement part...not key value.
#9
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Originally posted by mzmtg
Actually, they probably did put in a new clutch. It just wasnt a new nissan clutch. Usually the dealer will give you a great price quote on clutch or brake pad replacement...this is because they do not use nissan OEM replacement parts. They use "Nissan Key Value" parts. These parts suck. Make sure you get them to put in a genuine OEM replacement part...not key value.
Actually, they probably did put in a new clutch. It just wasnt a new nissan clutch. Usually the dealer will give you a great price quote on clutch or brake pad replacement...this is because they do not use nissan OEM replacement parts. They use "Nissan Key Value" parts. These parts suck. Make sure you get them to put in a genuine OEM replacement part...not key value.
I found out about that earlier and did some research. I called the dealership and asked them if a new clutch for a '97 Maxima would be *exactly* the same as the clutch that came out of the factory and they said yes.