ES poly motor mount bushings=terrible engine shaking???
#1
ES poly motor mount bushings=terrible engine shaking???
I got the solid poly urethane motor mount bushing pressed into my stock mounts and now when I disengage the clutch the motor shakes like crazy and im affraid it is going to mess something up BAD! It is only from a stop going into first or backing out of somewhere. Its always does it the worst when I do anything from a stop and disengage the clutch at under 2k rpm. If im driving and shift at 3k rpm its fine. Is this normal? It shakes real bad and im scared im going to mess something up because of how it makes the whole car shake.
Thanks for the help, Matt
Thanks for the help, Matt
#2
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who installed the mounts afterwards? I would make sure that all the mounts are nice and tight AND that they are tightened the right way.... weight of car must be on all 4 wheels , all mounts loose, tighen cross-member bolts, then go rear, front, tranny, timing cover. By weight of car on ground I mean no jacks, jackstands, etc, just long arms, skinny belly, and cut the wheel all the way to the right and use extensions to reach the rear mount
#5
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Originally Posted by matts95max
so loosen all mounts. but leave subframe on with car on the ground then tighten the 4 mounts?
#6
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Originally Posted by matts95max
when I do anything from a stop and disengage the clutch
#8
Yeah you should have mentioned you changed the clutch, since this is a clutch problem.
Next time get your flywheel resurfaced. The poly engine mounts will make the shuddering feel worse, but the problem is still the flywheel.
Although I think you should buy a new clutch disc, since it's probably been worn unevenly by the flywheel. The pressure plate can probably be re-used, if it was only driven less than a thousand miles. But if you're paying a mechanic to do this, just have a whole new clutch put in. Sorry, but do it right, do it once.
Dave
Next time get your flywheel resurfaced. The poly engine mounts will make the shuddering feel worse, but the problem is still the flywheel.
Although I think you should buy a new clutch disc, since it's probably been worn unevenly by the flywheel. The pressure plate can probably be re-used, if it was only driven less than a thousand miles. But if you're paying a mechanic to do this, just have a whole new clutch put in. Sorry, but do it right, do it once.
Dave
#10
Pressure plate and flywheel were brand new?
Did you wipe down the flywheel and pressure plate with solvent so they were free of grease?
It sounds like I'm being a PITA but any of these things can cause this problem and ruin a new clutch.
Did you wipe down the flywheel and pressure plate with solvent so they were free of grease?
It sounds like I'm being a PITA but any of these things can cause this problem and ruin a new clutch.
#13
Assuming everything is installed correctly and nothing is broken, it's likely a resonance issue in terms of the way the engine mount has a much higher resonance frequency now that it is so much stiffer, and it just so happens to be in the range where the clutch slips and grips. The gripping of the clutch torques up the engine mount, eventually hitting the threshold where it has no more play, suddenly ramping up torque being transferred to the point of friction in the clutch and flywheel. When that happens, more slip occurs, unloading the engine mount, and that cycles rapidly. In principle, the same situation happens with axle hop/tramp, except the contact point becomes between the tire and road, and the suspension and all the various links and joints are the source of the stored tensile energy instead of the engine mounts.
#15
Originally Posted by MaximaSE96
poly mounts will make u feel the engine alot more...thats y they are not poly from the factory
The problem is the resonance. The ES bushings are either 60A or 80A durometer. Mine are well over double that durometer rating. My engine mounts are far stiffer than the ES ones, and I don't have that problem, commonly referred to as clutch chatter. So it's not that the stiffer mount is causing the problem because if it were, mine would chatter too. It's about a clutch and engine mount that are incompatible.
When I first got my ACT, it was a little chattery, and continued to be chattery until I stiffened up my mounts. After that, no more chatter. It's a matter of finding the right combination that works.
#16
Originally Posted by matts95max
so whats gonna happen if I keep driving like this? is it really bad?
as far as the engine mounts, you should feel a good shake at idle/neutral conditions. once you engage into gear it should smooth out as the engine is now torque loaded. either way, check your mounts and subframe connections as they may have loosened.
as far as the engine shaking on the engage (taking foot off clutch pedal while in gear only) of the clutch in first from a stop only, i had the same thing happen. it got worse and worse and i finally got so scared of the shaking i dropped the tranny again after installing a "new" performance clutch, pressure plate, & flywheel. once i dropped the tranny i immediately found the problem. the throw out bearing is held onto the shift fork by two metal clips. well, one of my clips was gone and the other was almost completely cracked off. also the wear point at the pressure plate (the metal fingers in the middle of the p.p) had been wearing badly.
by the info you have posted i'd say your throw out bearing is the cause.
#17
Originally Posted by jac121479
i've had a problem that sounds similar to yours. i also just put my tranny back in and i also just put in poly engine mouts.
as far as the engine mounts, you should feel a good shake at idle/neutral conditions. once you engage into gear it should smooth out as the engine is now torque loaded. either way, check your mounts and subframe connections as they may have loosened.
as far as the engine shaking on the engage (taking foot off clutch pedal while in gear only) of the clutch in first from a stop only, i had the same thing happen. it got worse and worse and i finally got so scared of the shaking i dropped the tranny again after installing a "new" performance clutch, pressure plate, & flywheel. once i dropped the tranny i immediately found the problem. the throw out bearing is held onto the shift fork by two metal clips. well, one of my clips was gone and the other was almost completely cracked off. also the wear point at the pressure plate (the metal fingers in the middle of the p.p) had been wearing badly.
by the info you have posted i'd say your throw out bearing is the cause.
as far as the engine mounts, you should feel a good shake at idle/neutral conditions. once you engage into gear it should smooth out as the engine is now torque loaded. either way, check your mounts and subframe connections as they may have loosened.
as far as the engine shaking on the engage (taking foot off clutch pedal while in gear only) of the clutch in first from a stop only, i had the same thing happen. it got worse and worse and i finally got so scared of the shaking i dropped the tranny again after installing a "new" performance clutch, pressure plate, & flywheel. once i dropped the tranny i immediately found the problem. the throw out bearing is held onto the shift fork by two metal clips. well, one of my clips was gone and the other was almost completely cracked off. also the wear point at the pressure plate (the metal fingers in the middle of the p.p) had been wearing badly.
by the info you have posted i'd say your throw out bearing is the cause.
#19
Originally Posted by jac121479
other than the noise of the entire vehicle shaking, no other obvious noises. bearing itself was in excellent condition. just the clips were bad.
edit: The more I go over the limited information of symptoms and recent work, the more I think clutch chatter. Clutch chatter can be quite forceful and disturbing. Anyways, it remains, until things are disassembled, not much left to do.
#21
Originally Posted by jac121479
if properly installed, it's not the mounts.
#23
Originally Posted by dgeesaman
So why do you guys think this isn't clutch shudder?
#24
Originally Posted by Sin
Something just came to mind. A good way to check is to have the hood open, someone standing to the side of the car beside the engine bay, and have the driver creep forward or back. If the engine seems to be torquing back and forth quickly, it'll likely be a clutch/mount incongruity. However, if it's more so general engine shake, likely to be some kind of clutch issue, i.e. clutch misallignment, or even throwout bearing failure.
#25
Originally Posted by jac121479
if he is running anything other than a racing clutch, i don't believe he would get the vibration he's describing.
My old 86 accord (100hp) used to shake like mad when it had a chattery clutch. It was stock.
Dave
#26
base on my experience w/ a maxima w/ an ACT clutch, pressure plate, and poly engine mounts, the only shaking i ever felt that was remotely similar to what was described in the original post happened only when i had a faulty t.o. bearing. it had nothing to do with my mounts or my clutch.
i'm not familiar w/ 86 accords but i guess that info is worth keeping in mind. personally, even what your describing on your accord sounds like more than just clutch shudder, but i wouldn't know.
i'm not familiar w/ 86 accords but i guess that info is worth keeping in mind. personally, even what your describing on your accord sounds like more than just clutch shudder, but i wouldn't know.
#27
It was clutch shudder. On that car, replacing it and resurfacing the flywheel solved it.
My point is that clutch shudder can make for some pretty severe shaking. It all depends on how badly the clutching surfaces are.
Dave
My point is that clutch shudder can make for some pretty severe shaking. It all depends on how badly the clutching surfaces are.
Dave
#28
Originally Posted by dgeesaman
It was clutch shudder. On that car, replacing it and resurfacing the flywheel solved it.
My point is that clutch shudder can make for some pretty severe shaking. It all depends on how badly the clutching surfaces are.
Dave
My point is that clutch shudder can make for some pretty severe shaking. It all depends on how badly the clutching surfaces are.
Dave
#30
Originally Posted by matts95max
well I sanded it just to get anything off, just a sheet of sand paper by hand
Dave
#31
i put polys in mine but it doesn't shake noticably worse than stock. make sure they're facing the right direction. there is room for error in the way they sort of bend up and get skinnier at the top.
#32
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Originally Posted by Sin
I agree, I definitely think it's a clutch shudder related issue. Whether it is a contaminated surface, or an incompatibility of clutch and mount, or worn/damaged mount allowing the shudder, I think it's shudder and not a throw out bearing issue.
Originally Posted by jac121479
matts95max, please post your findings once you drop you tranny.
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