i dont think ill be replacing that one anytime soon

thats what the dealership said it will cots JUST for the part + 14% tax here in ontario. Labour is 94 dollars per hour and they say it will take 1.5h to change it ill let u do the math on this one

i also have a rear heater 02 sensor code, but they guy on the phone didnt know what that is, so he said the rear 02 sensor is $141 and takes 1h labour charge

what about the HEATER part of it ?

THAT IS RIDICULOUS!!!

 

damn! i know the dealer wanted to charge me 4 hours of labor to replace the knock sensor plus $100 for the sensor. I laughed in the guys face and was like, yeah, thanks buddy....

 

Um yes, from the DEALERSHIP.

 

ok so i called like 3 closest nissan dealers in my area, and got these responses

most trusted response from dealer 1) The KS does not trip the Check Engine Light, if u replace it and keep using 87 octane it will still retard the engine again. Drive until u HAVE to replace it (ie when milage goes way down unexpectedly with the same driving as before, OR u loose low end power <~3000 rpm) As far as the Rear 02 sensor heater just have it replaced for 130 + 1 h labour + tax

Dealer number 2) the receptionist said that the service advisor and the parts advisor are both busy and unavailable to pick up the phone (i found out this after being on hold for about 10 wasted minutes of my life)

dealer number 3) u MUST do the Computer check at dealership costing almost $100 otherwise the work AND parts are not warantied, and they dont guarantee they FIND the problem and dont guarantee what they do to fix the problem with actually FIX the problem(when i explained about the ECU codes i pulled he said : "That sounds kinda fishy" with a laugh). same prices were quoted for the parts and labour

i think ill stick to replacing the rear o2 sensor and thats it. the code still bothers me tho, whats the HEATER part of it ?

 

just get a fellow Canadian to help you out, eh. I'm sure you can find someone who's done it themselves and thus would be able to help you do it for cheap. I'd help you out, but Toronto's a hike from B-more

 

haha thanx, no my dad helped me change my PCV valve before, i know he will help me if i ask him. but our tools are kinda limited and now i dont see a point in replacing the KS because i will continue to use 87 octane cause im cheap and dont have money. i have great power and milage is Alright. i am gona get the rear o2 sensor done at the dealershilp after my next paycheque

i dont even have to replace that either i dont have any symptoms of loss of power and poor gas milage unless u consider 500km to a tank Poor milage ?!?!!

 

ebay knock sensor for $64 > stealership.

Changing a knock sensor may benefit you more than you think. As I said, a new one will run you about 70$ shipped total if you buy from eBay. Changing it takes about 20 minutes tops.

Filling with 91 octane compared to 87 octane will cost you an average of 2-3 bucks a tank, NO MORE. With a new knock sensor and using 91 octane you will see probably 24 or so MPG average; and that will equal roughly 400 miles before the low gas light comes on, assuming of course that your car is in tip top condition maintenance wise.

 

KS is $64 on ebay INCLUDING shipping. Takes less than 1/2 hour to replace.

 

Even better!

 

god I can only imagine how many people are getting peeled..........

 

If you pay $200+ for the rear O2 sensor I'll have to slap you. As long as you have some jackstands it can be changed for about $60 for the sensor and maybe 10 minutes of labor to unscrew the old one and screw the new one in.

 

I also live in canada, and my ks is due. The dealer was chaging me about $300, for the ks, plus labour. Dont want to spend that. So i think i'll be using ebay, once again.

 

the KS is easy to do, ive gotten it down to a 20 min procedure. Althogh ive done about 4-5 of them. Even if you pull of the upper and lower intake manifold it shoudlnt take more then 2 hours. I know for a fact that the dealerships cost of the KS sensor is probably 80-90$ Same with oxygen sensors, we charge $231 for them while our cost is 84. It sounds rediculousl but we wouldnt mark them up so much if people didnt buy them..

 

Anyone ever think of the CND vs USD?

The prices are right on with most if not all my local dealers... if you factor in the exchange rate.

Advice from the smart people on here, DO NOT GO TO THE DEALER. I've been there once in the past ~7 years, and do not plan on going back. This is with 7 years and 190k miles combined on 2 Maximas, and you wont see me at the dealer unless it's to foola round with them and make them realize how much they DON'T know.

 

ill admit some of the techs at my work really dont know what they're talking about, but some of them do. There are a few of the techs id 100% trust working on my car, their knowledge about nissans especially is kinda scary. one of the techs use to have a 600HP Z32, and a RB25 S13. All of the work he did himself, minus part of the RB25 swap he had some help on.

Other then the fact that i work at a nissan dealership, there is no way in hell id pay list prices, i still feel bad for people that do, i get everything for cost +5%, there are some things for example; electronics, we get them for dirt cheap and mark them up.

I bring my car to the dealer, but then again i either work on it there or the tech i trust does (Z32 guy).

 

well the exchange rate is pretty close, its 1.18 as of WED 12:26 AM Eastern standard time

so the 231.69 + tax CAD that the dealer quited me would be 196.35 + tax USD

only 34 dollars apart or so before tax (14% here in Ontario)

 

.

Nissans yes, Maximas no... most namely, VQ series. I don't care how many Nissans someone has done or what shop has done it, or if someones cousin has tuned a Nissan to 700 whp. Unless they've tuned a MAXIMA, I don't trust their so called 'knowledge'.....Well, here's what I think, again

http://forums.maxima.org/showpost.ph...3&postcount=81


Sounds close to my dealer which quoted me 186USD 6 years ago, like I said, very close prices when doing the correction. You missed the point that most people in this thread did no take into consideration of the exchange rate.

 

heh true, but then again in my area, i think theres maybe a handful of modded maximas?

 

In my area there are less than a handful. I can count them on less than one hand. And I have 2 of them.

 

heh owned. its true when i tell people that y-pipe alone gives 15whp gains, there all like bs, and even some techs ive talked to said that, and when i did just the y-pipe on the rest of the stock exhaust some of the techs, even the ones at my work were like dont bother its going to give maybe 1-2hp gains because you have free flow then it gets restricted. i was astonished at the lack of knowledge by a few.

 

Well yeah, they're just not saavy enough to know that it contains 2 precats... that's where most of the power comes from.

 

yep, onetime i had the car on the hoist and one of the mechanics walks up and is like ohh aftermarket exhaust and hes like did you pass aircare and im like ya and hes like oh ya the pre-cats are built into the exhaust manifold. one other time one of the techs asked who did the 3.5 swap into my 02 SE because they never came with 3.5's. only 04+ came with the 3.5 that kinda scared me..good thing he got fired..

 

here: $60.81 CDN

http://catalog.eautopartscatalog.com...2b2187b0529cfa


I ordered mine off this website... took a few days delivery and I changed it myself.. took around 15 minutes.. make sure the engine/ intake manifold is cold , it makes changing the Knock Sensor less painful..

 

thanx a LOT, this web site is safe right ? i dont usually buy things online

 

I bought mine for $35

 

i have the same issue, pulled the codes 0304, called the Nissan dealer and they wanted 231.69cdn for the sensor, and they said 3 hours of labour and they guys is saying since he has to take off the intake and manifold some gaskets will need to be replaced, said around $550+tax

Then the service guy is like you getting an engine code, I told him yea and also my mileage is kinda crappy, he started to laugh and he's like "the knock sensor aint gonna fix that hahah!"

I think i'll just do this myself

 

STEALership..... why do you go there? when you can do it yourself....

 

WOW u have to be nuts to pay that much money i changed my k/s myself and it took me all but 45 min i got the k/s from e-bay total cost a whooping $64 dollers and no cents

 

i didint buy anytihng yet, kool ur self, people go there cause they obviously cant do it themselves smarty, not everyone in the world is a great mechanic like u with all the tools available!

 

Thanx for the link, I placed an order from these guys last week and it came yesterday! To take advantage of their free shipping @ $75 I added an air filter

 

I got a KS on ebay for 64 shipped also. And if your'e gonna pay someone to work on your car, do not let it be for an o2 sensor or KS.. that's just wasted money. Sometimes the front o2 sensors are a pain but the rear one is very very very easy to get out. 17mm wrench I think?

 

speaking of rear o2 sensors

i got a code 0902 it means this: Diagnostic Trouble Code 0902 points to a problem with the Rear Heated Oxygen Sensor Heater.

The malfunction is detected when the current in the Oxygen Sensor heater circuit is out of the normal range.
Possible causes include ...
- the electrical harnesses
- the connector
- the Oxygen Sensor heaters

You may test the heater with an ohmmeter. This test is done with the engine off.

Raise the car and support it on sturdy jackstands. Slide under and disconnect the connector. Viewed with the connector latch at the 12 o'clock position, there are four terminals. They are numbered 1-2, top row, right to left and 3-4, bottom row, right to left. Be sure to measure the resistances of the Oxygen Sensor, not the harness which leads to the Engine Control Unit.

Measure the resistance between terminals 1 and 4.
The factory spec is 2.3-4.3 ohms at 77 degrees Fahrenheit.

Measure the resistance between terminals 2 and each of the other terminals.
The reading should be infinity (no connection).

Measure the resistance between terminals 3 and each of the other terminals.
The reading should be infinity (no connection).


Check fuse #31 (15 amps) in the passenger cabin fuse block. That fuse block has three columns of fuses.
The left-most column contains fuses 1 - 11, numbered from bottom to top.
The middle column contains fuses 12 - 26, numbered from bottom to top.
The right-most column contains fuses 27 - 40, numbered from bottom to top.

The numbers are molded into the plastic fuse block. They are not easy to read. A flashlight will be helpful.

when i checked fuse # 31 it was not there, so i put one in, but the reset ecu but the code came back, what troubles me most is that this is not an actualy SENSOR code, its the Electrical harness or connector code. How can i fix this ?
PS: i cant check it with an ohm meter cause i cant raise the car on anything

 

your welcome

 

blame canada blame canada

 

o2 sensors dont start changing fuel trim until they are hot. having heaters to help heat them to their operating temperature ensures faster response from the 02's and better cold engine performance (not rich for very long).

 

so how do i replace this rear o2 sensor heater ? is this a job for a professional or a dealer ?

 

gotta replace the whole 02 sensor.