railmax97

http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v1...urrent=egr.jpg

I currently have CEL with EGR hi/low flow code. Several org'ers have pinpointed the EGR tube (14713) where carbon builds up and blocks the flow. Planning to work towards that, I bought new gaskets at Nissan. The parts guy told me that the small tube from EGR to BPT (14751) was more likely the problem since it is substantially smaller and has a lot of heat around it. Anyone? Anyone?

railmax97

bumping up this thread

2da mizzax

iTrader: (4)

the flow is measured on the small tube via the EGR Temp ensor. The parts guy is correct. 14713 is your problem. let me know if you need instructions.

railmax97

Thanks mizzax. I think I've printed all the treads/instructions/photos in reference to 14713. But if you'd like to go ahead and give new ones or links to others, I can double check my plans.

Again, though: The Nissan parts guy said 14751 would be the culprit and NOT 14713. Many posters here have pointed to 14713 which contradicts the parts guy.

2da mizzax

iTrader: (4)

oh ok. parts guy is prob wrong then. it is most commonly 14713.

railmax97

That's what I figured. The plan is to go for 14713 first (if I can figure it out) and then onto something else searching out the offending clog. Wish me luck!

Sounbwoy

iTrader: (2)

It doesn't hurt to check 14751 just the same. I discovered some blockage when I did mine. Some SeaFoam and some speaker wire took care of that. In addition, check the condition of 14755. It's just a piece of hose that connects the pipe to the BPT. If it's bad, it can block flow thru that tube as well.
I have pics here. They're not arranged in any particular order (sorry), but look at the ones labelled:"EGR Hose pipe marked" and "EGR pipe 1. If your connecting hose is bad, just get a piece of new hose from any auto store.
I keep forgetting to bookmark that thread I started....

railmax97

Sounbwoy-

I'm working from your info/photos found in old posts. I have removed 14751 (and 14755) since it was the easiest. No problems there...just a little coating which came out with carb cleaner and forced air. The rubber hose was OK. No noticeable difference in air flow before and after cleaning. Next step is 14713 which seems to be the problem for most folks posting about the hi/low code. I'm not a mechanic, so this will be challenging. Question: Where is the "plenum" referenced in several posts? Is it 14714 or the actual EGR valve itself???

Thanks for any suggestions or assistance!

2da mizzax

iTrader: (4)

the plenum is the portion with the 6 curved tubes all of the way to the left of the picture. you dont need to remove it. if you do, make sure you buy a new gasket. to remove the small tube, remove the 2 bolts and studs holding in #14710. (2 12mm nuts and you can use a 5mm socket to remove the studs. then pry down the large tube (#14120) to access the 2 12mm nuts holding the small pipe in place. then remove the 2 12mm nuts on the upper portion of the small pipe that bolt it to the plenum. finally, unbolt the bracket on the IAC Valve (1 10mm bolt) holding the sensor plug. remove the small pipe. Use some vise grips to remove the sensor from the pipe. spray and scrape everything clean. Best to use Berryman B12 Chemtool in the spray can. I found it to dissolve deposits much faster than most of the other stuff i have used. Use a hanger or something equivalent to get all of the way inside of the pipe as most of the blockage occurs at the kink and not just at the opening. make sure to clean the upper and lower openings on the motor also.

railmax97

Thanks again mizzax - I worked all day trying to remove 14713. I just can't get the nut blocked by 14120 to cooperate. I have tried box wrenches (both ends), vise grips, etc. I even bought a professional 12mm box wrench to gain some length for leverage but it was too long and I couldn't use it! I have tried so much that dang nut is starting to strip. Then I thought I'd loosen the big nut on 14120 (at connection to 14710) and try to move that tube just enough to get a socket on the blocked nut for 14713. No luck on that...it's frozen as well. This is very discouraging since I have the other three (of four) nuts or bolts out and 14713 is soooo close to being removed. Tommorrow I'll go by Sears and buy a 12mm crows foot (box wrench connecting to a socket) and see if I can get enough leverage on that 4th nut that way. It's just so tight down there you can't move anything.

Has anyone used a crows foot wrench down there? I've never used one and will be interested to see if enough leverage can be garnered to break that nut free. Also, does anyone know the size of the 14120 nut? I don't have a box wrench big enough and was trying to use a large lock jaw pliers (large enough that it usually breaks anything free due to the long handles.)

I'm creeping closer and closer to having to spend big bucks to have the (expected) carbon blockage busted out. But I'm so close.....

railmax97

Oh wait --- mizzax, you said to loosen 14710 EGR valve in order to gain enough room behind 14120 to get a socket on the hidden nut for 14713. Is that right? I didn't buy a gasket for that spot as I only bought the top & bottom gaskets for 14713. Will I need to replace 14719?

2da mizzax

iTrader: (4)

you dont have to replace the gasket but it is recommended. and yet remove those 2 nuts and studs (hope they are rusted enough and come out as one) in order to pry down the large pipe. If they dont come out as one piece you can use a torx socket (i forget which size) or a 5mm socket to remove the studs. once those studs are out it pries down with ease (just use a large flathead) and you can use a socket and ratchet. no need for the hassle of a wrench.

railmax97

I tried removing the EGR (to bend 14120 down for access to the hidden bolt of 14713.) No luck. The nuts came off OK. Since I need the studs out, I tried the 5mm socket idea and that stripped immediately. Then I spent $30 for a "reverse torx" socket set. I selected the proper socket, attached, began to twist, and the torx tip snapped off. Geez. I put everything back together (wow, that was quick) so the car can be driven.

In order to remove the 14710 studs, I think I'll have to vise grip them and ruin the threads (and hoping it doesn't break.) Of course I'll have to purchase new ones from Nissan for installation. As of now, that looks like the only way to access the hidden 14713 bolt. Any other ideas out there?

2da mizzax

iTrader: (4)

others have cut the tip of the studs. tell me you used some PBlaster to free the rust first.

railmax97

Does Seafoam count?

2da mizzax

iTrader: (4)

I have no idea how well Seafoam works as a penetrating oil (although i think it doesnt work well as one). I think it acts more as a moisture remover.

Sounbwoy

iTrader: (2)

I'm confused. I didn't have anywhere near that much trouble. I had to improvise, but I didn't use any "crow's feet" or any such things. It came down to a decent 12mm socket, LOCKING vise grips, my breaker bar...that's it. As a matter of fact, IIRC, I used my 12mm socket with the breaker bar to get the nut loose. Was slow going, but I did it. The bar gave me the leverage to turn the nut. It just took several repititions to get it loose.
You HAVE to TAKE YOUR TIME.....look at it, Even with pics and directions, you still should study it b4 starting any work.

railmax97

Guys - I really appreciate your help and past postings, etc. I know it all takes time to give folks like me some pointers not to mention the efforts taken to post guidelines, photos, etc. I tried to follow instructions as best I could. The biggest problem was that frozen "hidden nut" behind 14120. I know I worked & worked & worked to loosen that thing and basically ended up starting to round the edges. That's why I need to get the EGR off so I can gain enough slack to put a socket on the nut...or an extractor if it's come to that. I'll figure something out. In the mean time, I did get 14751/14755 cleaned and checked plus shot TB cleaner into the throttle body as well. Reset the CEL and I'll see if it stays off long enough to get through emissions (I doubt it.) Anyway, I have a "starting knowledge" of where all the parts are at this point. I just know when I finally get 14713 off that it will look just like a piece of coal jammed into the opening. BTW: Seafoam "claims" it works as a penetrating agent (of course they can say anything!)

Sounbwoy

iTrader: (2)

Do you have one of these? This is an ESSENTIAL in any toolbox and served as my hood prop for several years until I got some for real hood struts..
It really helped me out even when working on the EGR stuff.
BTW: I used Seafoam to do my cleaning.

railmax97

I have some now! (Always wanted some....this just gave me a good excuse to buy 'em.) I'm planning another work session for this weekend using the new tools. I also picked up an EGR gasket today. I'm still trying to save the estimated $346 dealer charge for EGR passage cleanout. Really!

railmax97

Much thanks to 2da mizzax and Sounbwoy for their assistance! My EGR "intake tube" was indeed caked up big time, as in completely clogged shut. I was able to access the choke by using a bolt extractor to remove the studs through the EGR valve. That allowed the valve and attached pipe to be bent down just a little in order to get a socket on the "hidden bolt" which holds the EGR "return tube." I removed 14713 and used seafoam and ramming to remove the coked up carbon. I then used a can opener to scrape the clinkers out of the back of the plenum. (You know, the kind of opener that people kept in their garages in the "old days" to open cardboard cans of oil. Don't you remember those??? Probably not unless you are 40 or older!) I also used a small screwdriver and, of course, fingers. Anyway, everything is now cleaned out and reinstalled. Passed emissions yesterday after waiting for the computer to complete its two-day reset. No more CEL! (And I didn't have to blow $346 or more at the dealership.)

I don't think the EGR blockage affected driving quality at all. It just kept a small amount of exhaust from being recirculated for re-burning. Right? The only "real" problem was CEL and not being able to pass emissions (and therefore not being able to re-register the vehicle.)

2da mizzax

iTrader: (4)

Its purpose it to also cool the cumbustion chamber reducing knock and reducing harmful emissions. You may feel a tiny bit of improvement. Congrats. Makes you want to find another car and do it again right?

Sounbwoy

iTrader: (2)

Good job. It always feels good when you do something that yourself.

railmax97

Ha, ha. I don't want to do it again, but if/when I do it will be a whole lot easier!

I guess your comment about reducing knock explains why the EGR hi/low code also triggered the knock code. I'm just glad I didn't have to replace any sensors, etc.

Bonka

iTrader: (13)

I just got rid of my 0302 code; there was not too much buildup on the top end of the valve and the end on the manifold was clean. I'm honestly surprised it triggered a CEL considering some of the descriptions and pics others have posted with their valved virtually caked closed. It's PITA but like the knock sensor small hands seem to help.

2da mizzax

iTrader: (4)

small hands? sounds liike you scraped the surface but didnt clean it thooughly. I bet that code pops ight back up once the computer runs through all of the system checks.

buzpuck11

iTrader: (3)

Does code 0302 have any ill effects on the car, or is it mostly just for emissions? Is it bad to continuously drive with this code?

Sounbwoy

iTrader: (2)

You will not notice any issues driving the car. It's primarily emissions related. It works primarily at cruising speeds by reburning some of the exhaust gases in the engine. I drove with mine on for almost a year before fixing it. That being said though, I would not delay it if you have the time to fix it. There is now enough documentation on the board to get it done.

2da mizzax

iTrader: (4)

will help increase predetonation.

Bonka

iTrader: (13)

Scraped the surface? I pulled the pipe out and cleaned it through with a small wire brush. Small hands helped me reach and grab the bottom bolts off the manifold, especially since I only removed the IACV and airbox.

Oh, and the code didn't come back. I would know because my CEL recently came back on because of my TS ECU (0707).

mystican

How did you guys "bend" the larger pipe "down"... I am also having trouble removing the last bolt on the EGR tube. It is a clearance issue. Really getting me annoyed...

Edit: I finally got the "big tube" to "bend"...but then I heard a snap and now there is a break where the "big tube" connects...right in front of where it blocks the lower nut of the EGR tube...should I worry? What kind of leak has ocurred?

I am looking at the EGR tube...now that it is off...no caking...clear at the bottom...the top was a little dirty though

Edit: Make sure you look at the intake where the EGR tube enters...mine was gunked up bad...the rest of the tube was perfect...I used a small wire brush for the inlet...

max_shop

Sounbwoy,

Your link to Yahoo photos is not working...it's says that the photos have been moved to Flickr. Can you post the updated link?

Thanks

Sounbwoy

iTrader: (2)

Here ya go... I thot I had posted the new link but with my old mind, who knows?

http://www.flickr.com/photos/sounbwo...7600904583001/

jxkim

iTrader: (18)

someone needs to make a sticky on cleaning egr tube. (i need to do mine as well. damn cel)