randy021186

well i did a coolant change about 6-7 month and i used NISSAN fluid with a 50/50 mix of distilled water ....
now the problem is it is cold and the car takes forever to warm up and lets the needle is in the middle of C ang H when i jump on the highways the needle drops just alttile over the c is that a problem?

Sounbwoy

iTrader: (2)

You either have air in the system from not bleeding the system of air or a bad thermostat.

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

Good lord

I can't quite udnerstand what you typed.

From the sounds of it, it might need a new t-stat.

Love_00_Max

What were the steps you took during the coolant change?

Also, please be more specific, coolant change in what, radiator or block or the entire system (flush)?

Pugsy

Change your thermostat.

sky jumper

I'd have to go with both air in the system and a bad t-stat. air usually causes the temp gauge to read hot, not cold. but I'm guessing you didn't purge air from the system when you did whatever work you did - so you probably do have air. a bad t-stat will cause the car to run cool just as you describe.

njmaxseltd

iTrader: (19)

buzpuck11

iTrader: (3)

New thermostat made my car warm up faster and the needle to stay right in the middle. I also changed my ECTS at the same time and that helped as well.

WhiteMaxima9600

Dude it's your thermostat, it has nothing to do with what kind of coolant you used.. Your stat is stuck in the open position therefore letting the coolant circulate through the radiator all the time and overcooling so to speak..

Gennady7

Yeah, mine stopped working too. Anyone know where the thermostat is located?

buzpuck11

iTrader: (3)

http://forums.maxima.org/showpost.ph...4&postcount=43

GStrength

iTrader: (4)

Listen!! A bad thermostat will cause your tempature guage to jump back and forth from normal to cold, it'll be twitching just as you described so i recommend you change your thermostat.

ImmaSquashYou

iTrader: (7)

Yes he is correct. The thermostat is like a $10-$20 part. Follow the hose from the radiator to the left side of the engine. Thats where the temp sensor is.

Sounbwoy

iTrader: (2)

Please explain this....

buzpuck11

iTrader: (3)

Thermostat and temp sensor are on opposites sides of the engine.

GStrength

iTrader: (4)

lol i cant i just know the symptoms cause it happened to my old maxima

2da mizzax

iTrader: (4)

????

This thread is full of nonsense information. Jesus Christ.

If you changed both at the same time how do you know which one helped?

buzpuck11

iTrader: (3)

I was changing my ECTS so I figured I would change the thermostat at the same time since it was the original 170,xxx miles and I didn't want to drain/purge the system again if the problem wasn't fixed the first time. So it was a combination of the two that fixed my problem.

2da mizzax

iTrader: (4)

wrong. it was changing the thermostat. the temp sensor senses. It doesnt control the cars temperature. and you dont even know if it was bad.

buzpuck11

iTrader: (3)

Wrong. Sensor was setting off CEL, contributing to a hard cold starts and random stallings. Also it had the radiator fans on at all times, which DID impact the car temperature, so I did know it was bad.

2da mizzax

iTrader: (4)

so how do you know the thermostat was bad then? let me guess. it set off the CEL too right?

buzpuck11

iTrader: (3)

read my other post buddy

nismology

iTrader: (8)

N00bz flaming n00bz...how

ImmaSquashYou

iTrader: (7)

Sorry, you need change the thermostat. The thermostat is located on the left side of the engine. Didn't mean to confuse with the temp sensor

This does happen. The thermostat is stuck open. Since it may not be FULLY open, what it'll do is let the car warm up till it is normal. As you all know, the engine does cool down a bit when you are driving especially in cold weather like this. That is why when you start driving the needle will go down to cold. The cold air is cooling your car, and obviously the faster you move, the colder you're engine will be. Hence the moving back and forth of the needle from normal to cold and back to normal when you stop.

Note: I had to stop on the side of the road for about 30 sec to get my car back to normal because it was so cold and the heat was blowing out cold air.

Sounbwoy

iTrader: (2)

Okay then. I 'll grant that. I guess the use of the word "twitching" set me off. That implies a rapid movement, which doesn't happen (at least it didn't in my car or two other people I know).

randy021186

i think that may be the issue..

randy021186

<~~~~ thats exactly my problem when i start the car the temp can reach normal temp (needle in the middle) ...heres the stituation
1) when i drive locally (new york city streets) the needle stays in the middle

2) when i jump on the highway the needle goes just abit over the "c" ....

so what your saying it is indeed the thermostat?

randy021186

well this is how i changed the coolant

i did the heater core release (i think thats whats its called) when you hold the bottons on the auto climate control
release the screw in the bottom of the rad
then emptied the resevior
took a hose and blasted the top of the rad
then did a flush with the distilled water (didn't want any tap water leftover)
then i mixed the cooland with distilled water 50/50
filled the rad drove about 2 mile and topped it off..

Sounbwoy

iTrader: (2)

Sounds like you'll be flushing again.
I don't know about the "heater core release" that you mention.
However, once you refilled, you let air into the system. You have to get that air out. So after you've filled up everything:
Set your heat on maximum. Leave the rad cap OFF. Start the car and apply STEADY STATE throttle to about 2k to 2500 rpm. As you do so watch the rad and soon you'll see coolant start to bubble just like a lava pit (air). Top it off, and start the process over again until you don't see any more air pockets popping.
It's slow, but that's how you make sure you don't have air in the system.