hey,
this morning my check eng light came on after 3 months of changing my oxygen sensor.

RIGHT NOW...i am ATTEMPTING to do the check engine light test. the results was 3 long blinks and 4 quick blinks. i went to check on ECU Diagnostic Trouble Codes by Mr. bill99gxe and it says Diagnostic Trouble Code 0304 points to a problem with the Knock Sensor.

Alright, I decided to check it out one more time turn the screw clockwise until it stop and than counterclock wise.
BUT there was no more CHECK ENG LIGHT????
did i accidentally reset the check eng light. I don't think so. Any suggestion???

Oh yeah when i started the car, the car is shaking and it is idling below 1k rpm!!!

What should i do????????

thanks

CHIGGARMAX,
95 GXE 45k!!!

 

I just took my 96 max to nissan they told me that I dont have a knock sensor and the did the factory recall stuff to the car but I am waiting to see if it will come back on

 

Just came back for a short drive and the car idle barely above 0 RPM. I have wait until next wed. the earliest to have my car get check!!! i have used my left foot to brake and my right foot on gas padel so i have power to go after a red light.

The check light did not come after half hour drive????

CHIGGARMAX
an unHAPPY maxima owner

 

Yes.

The correct idle speed is...
- 700 +/- 50 (automatic transmission, in Neutral)
- 625 +/- 50 (5-speed)

Therefore the engine is supposed to idle below 1K rpm. However, it is not supposed to shake. A healthy 4Gen engine idles smoothly.

Check all the wires and vacuum lines in the engine compartment. Look for something which has been damaged or accidentally disconnected. A bad idle is often caused by a vacuum leak.

Chances are the Check Engine Light will come back and you can carefully read out the stored Diagnostic Trouble Codes. There may be more than one. Post your results on this forum.

 

mine did the same rough idle, i reset it once, was rough, 2nd time it was fine. it had the knock sensor and o2 error codes too. so it went in today (3 weeks later, and is like new, but it was the same after i reset the ECU again after the rough idle, just the light would come back on) $1200 later... (new brakes and rotors front, new pads rear, inspection... heat shield welded, small oil leak i didnt know about, and O2 sensors...) OUCH!! still love the car, worry free for years to come now. it does have 154,000 on it as a 95

 

Mr. JeepRage,
Are you saying..that I should tried to reset and hopefully I would not have a rought idle or when I come to a red light?

Mr. Daniel, when my car idle/stop at red light is about 250 rpm. It is below the recommend rpm for an auto. Oh yeah thank u for the link regarding the window. Now my window goes all the way down

Thanks for all the response!!!

CHIGGARMAX
a 95 gxe idle at .25K rpm yeah baby!!!

 

Here is some text copied from the factory service manual.


"Idle Air Control Valve (IACV) -- Auxiliary Air Control (AAC) Valve

This system automatically controls engine idle speed to a specified level.
Idle speed is controlled through fine adjustment of the amount of air which
by-passes the throttle valve via the IACV-AAC valve. The IACV-AAC valve
changes the opening of the air by-pass passage to control the amount of
auxiliary air. ... "


You may make a quick test of your IACV-AAC in the following way. With the
motor at normal operating temperature, and at idle, switch the A/C from
"off" to "maximum". Keep your eye on the tachometer as you do this. The
idle speed should dip momentarily and then recover. If it does this, the
IACV-AAC is working. If the idle drops and does not recover, the engine
may stumble, falter, and stall. The IACV-AAC may require cleaning,
adjustment, or replacement.

The correct idle speed is...
- 700 +/- 50 (automatic transmission, in Neutral)
- 625 +/- 50 (5-speed)

There are other engine parts which play a role in maintaining the right idle
speed, but the IACV-AAC is the first thing to look at.

 

The knock sensor should not trigger the check engine light. Something else did. From many posts that I have read, it seems like the knock sensor is a common problem.

 

This is correct. Furthermore, a faulty knock sensor would not result in an abnormally low idle or an irregular ("shaky") idle. There is more to this story...

 

I don't know what happen. I did the diag even if the check engine light was on and got 0505 meaning there is nothing wrong with the engine.
Started the engine and everything seems fine. Took the car for a long spin in the country side with a lot hill, giving the engine/trans a work out. The car sound fine.

Check the engine bay, don't see any things that out of place. The car is idle normally around 800 rpm.

Mr. Daniel, I will do the quick test on IACV-AAC tomorrow.

My BIG questionS is am I out of WOODS or what precautions should I take to prevent from every happening again.

$hould I take the car to the Nissan service and let them check it over. I will be taking a long 1 day trip soon and don't want to be stranded on the road!!

Thanks everyone!

Goodnite,
CHIGGARMAX
STRESSOUT 95 GXE Owner

 

This is a popular misconception. Diagnostic Trouble Code 0505 does not mean nothing is wrong with the engine. All it means is that the Engine Control Module has not recognized a problem. There are some aspects of engine operation which the ECM does not check and therefore cannot diagnose. One good example is fuel pressure. There is no fuel pressure sensor, so there are no "low fuel pressure" Diagnostic Trouble Codes. I wish the ECM did monitor fuel pressure. If it did, you could get DTCs saying "Weak Fuel Pump" and "Fuel Filter Clogged".

Only time will tell. You have reported an intermittent problem. This is the most difficult kind of defect to find and fix. It may come back next week, next month, next year, or never.

 

well im not saying its the end all solution, just saying reseting my ecu a 2nd time fixed my poor idle on my auto. before i did the 2nd time, it would sputter and stall at idle. i just assumed i did something wrong reading the codes, and went through it again. it was perfect after doing it, but the light did come back on about 200 miles later for the 02, and i brought it in today to get serviced. WOW, the car feels absolutely new when i got it back. brand new (unwarped rotors) no hesitation, absolutely like new, and with all those miles, i am VERY pleased. good luck with yours, hopefully the idle wont come back, mine hasnt yet

Hall

 

Could be a sensor failing or even something as simple as a bad tank of gas that caused your initial MIL light.

In the owner's manual, they tell you a procedure to run through after loosing power or resetting the ECU so it can learn the proper operating paremeters.

-V

 

Please explain how bad gas could turn on the MIL. I'm not saying you are wrong, but I don't understand how that could happen and I'm always eager to learn.

I cannot find this procedure in my Owner's Manual. In your manual, which chapter contains this valuable information?

 

I just did the test on IACV-AAC. Instead my tach needle went up but quickly went back to 800rpm.

Observations for today:
When my car comes to a stop or idle, the tach needle slight goes up and down. It is very hard to notice unless you stared at it.

There is slight smell of gasoline, everytime I started the car no matter if the car is hot or cold.

The car slightly shakes via steering wheel, it shakes more than before, I think.

When I started the car, check engine goes on with other lights, ie airbag, seatbelt, temp, etc. but goes out.

I don't know if my observations is normal or I am just paying TOO much attention to the car.

Again should I let a certified nissan to check my car, even there is not check engine light, except observation I stated above.


Thanks again,
CHIGGARMAX,
95 GXE in reHab.

PS- I remember a nissan tech told me that if I don't closed my fuel cap tightly. It might triggered check engine light. I filled my tank on monday but got check engine light on thrusday. I drive the car daily???

 

Your Engine shake or rough running could be as simple as having funky connections under the hood. A couple months back I had the same problem. It turns out that my number 5 ignition coil and my number 6 injector both had bad connections at the same time. Which left me running on 4 and it was very shaky!

The fix was pulling the connectors off and cleaning them.
I have found that TV Tuner spray lube (that you can get at radio shack for $3) is a great tool to use on funky connections. I've driven about 3k miles since and no more problem.

Also, I recently had to replace my O2 sensors which were causing a phantom knock sensor ECU error code. A Nissan tech told me that when an O2 sensor dies the engine runs too lean which causes, among other things, excessive engine knock. The computer sees this as a knock sensor failure.
If you're not getting any other codes with it yet... you will. Your O2 sensors are failing.

They're easy to replace... but not so cheap.

Good luck!