recently my after starting my car it will immediately die. if i hit the gas after it turns over it will idle fine. this happened twice last week when i went to start it in the morning. it doesnt do it all the time though. it runs and drives fine otherwise. i havent checked for any ghost codes yet.

 

there are about 40 current threads about this right now.

 

i searched a little bit but didnt seem to find what i was looking for

 

cheapest first fix = clean your throttle body and IAC Valve. dont just spray them but remove them adn clean them thoroughly. If it persists, take it from there. any check engine light?

 

no check engine light
is throttle body cleaner the same as carb cleaner?

 

There is a difference, useTB cleaner. Also might want to check your engine coolant temp sensor.

Read through like the last 5 recent pages, you will find alot of related info.

 

a lot of what i read was the MAF sensor which doesnt sound like problem that i have because it isn't doing it when i'm driving, only at startup. it seems like the IAC valve would be the first thing to check.
i didnt see anything about the coolant temp sensor. i'll do a search. i wouldnt be surprised because practically everything cooling related has had to be replaced in the past few months (radiator, hoses, water pump)

 

use TB cleaner on the TB and if you are buying 2 cans, use Berrymans B12 Chemtool Spray on the IAC Valve (works faster).

 

Hey guys, I'm having touble with my 1997 SE and am seeking some help as to where to start looking for the problem. The problem is that my car will not start unless I feather the gas. The car has enough crank to turn over, so I don't feel that it's the starter because it does eventually start. This problem just started occuring, but I took my car up north snowboarding (drove 350 miles) with no problems except for the starting. Even after 3.5 hours of straight driving, I shut the car off and tried to turn it back on to see if it would start, and again, I couldn't without feathering the gas. There are no other symptoms that I can notice. Any help or insight would be appreciated. Thanks!

 

Check:

battery discharged or low
malfunctioning fuel system (fuel filter,etc)
faulty coolant temperature sensor
faulty intake air temerature sensor
injectors leaking
faulty ignition system
defective maf sensor

 

most be TUNE UP time!!!

fuel filter
clean TB, Iacv
plugs
oil

the whole 9...

 

And add PCV valve to that list.

 

Off topic, but gotta love the 97 SE! It's weird, but when I'm low on gas, it takes a little extra umph to start the car...

 

I never let it go below 1/4 of a tank

 

why not ? is it because over the years crap thats in the tank floats on top and u dont want to let it in the system ? thats what i heard before

 

I'm no mechanic by any means, but from my understanding is that the fuel in our tank is used to cool the fuel pump. Therefore, if the fuel is low, it's not able to cool the pump as efficiently. So I basically do it for 2 reasons. One being protecting the fuel pump system and the second is that I like knowing I won't run low on gas anytime unexpectedly.

 

The only way to burn up a fuel pump is to run it dry. not running on a low fuel tank. and........that myth about "the crap at the bottom of the fuel tank" is just that. Take a dirty fuel filter and turn it upside down. The filters are there for a reason and do a very good job of it.

I say run it low and get the gunk out!

 

Tune up, check fuel pressure (may be the pump), check coil packs. No CEL?

IMO its a fuel filter or plugs if no CEL.

 

run it low like run it out of gas ? or run it until the low fuel indicator starts flashing ?

 

car won't start...replaced the battery with a new one and still nothing...i turn the key but the car doesn't start...i think it might be the starter...before...when i turned the engine on...i would hear a grinding noise and then it would start.
planning on towing it to a shop...not sure yet

wat do u guys think?

thanks,
-Stuart

 

change the starter yourself. 1 14mm 1 17mm bolt.

 

hey KidA157 im having almost the same problem the only diff is that when mine starts the rpm goes up and down about 200 and than it stabilizes and its fine after, other than this everything else is the same.
i went to nissan and hooked up the Consult and from that i can tell u its prob not any of the sensors, battery, or alternator. I dont have CEL so i cleaned the TB and its still the same, i dont know if thatll help you any but if u come across anything that works for you let me know i am still having that problem.

 

It's cold weather. Pretty sure another 4 threads have been posted on this since it got cold. You can to the necessary tune up, of course thats a great idea. But it's probably not going to change anything. If your alternator is good, pump is good, starter is good, and if the car runs fine once its warm, it's the cold.

 

Hello All,

I have a 96 gxe and in the past couple of months its been having some trouble with starting. It turns over every time quite quickly. Except right after the point of turning over it makes a semi grinding noise, not really a good description of the noise but the closest thing to that sound. Maybe a buzzing noise. Apologies for not being able to fully describe the noise. The noise lasts about 2 seconds and then stops. This noise definitely is not the alternator or anything like that.
What could this be?

I remember a while ago someone said the timing chain? How would I know this is the timing chain or the noise is coming from there?

Thanks for any help

Gmax

 

i dont think its the cold cause here its about 50F/10C so its not that bad

 

Well then do a tune up and see what happens.....

 

the answer is.................poor compression due to carbon buildup. throw in a bottle of Gumout Regane or Redline SI-1. check/change the plugs first. If you see heavy deopsits on the piston heads when removing the plugs, a Chemtool Piston soak wouldnt hurt. (If you dare).

 

How cold has it been in Queens? If it's cold, grinding noises can be from extremely cold oil that hasn't gotten up the cylinder walls yet. ...annnnnd my car died again this morning. You have it easy.

 

I can tak a look at it if you need me to. Sound like a starter from what you are saying.

 

I had the same exact issue, switched to 91 octane and put in some STP fuel injector cleaner, now she starts up flawlessly even at -30 C (with the windchill factor) at night here in Toronto

 

it hasnt done it since. i changed the fuel filter the other day. i dont know if that made a difference or not

 

use 91 octane, that solved the same issue i had, I have read on a nissan service site that 4th gens have hard time starting during cold weather, this is due to the gas mixture being incorrect and not burning at a proper rate, that same site recommends slightly tapping the gas pedal to force more fuel into the combustion chamber. Hit the gas slightly (bump it back to 1500 rpm) and you will be fine this is not something u can fix that easily but has been experienced by MANY 4th gen owners of all years so the problems is there within all our cars, let me guess this only started in the winter ?

 

try the gas thing

 

crap, mines been doing that too, if its the starter, its cheaper just to get it replaced right?

 

according to nissanhelp.com in cold weather where the car doesnt start, youre supposed to give it some gas while its cranking to get it started up.

and yes, a fuel filter would make a hugee difference. did you poor the old crap out? was it brown and nasty?

 

yes, check PCV valve! you do not want pressure building up in the crankcase if its bad. when you get it out, shake it. if it rattles its good. if it doesnt get a new one ($5 at autozone). and if you can see oil inside it, replace it.

but you should also check the other things listed too. for me a new battery helped my cold starting problem.

 

don check the PCV, just replace it. Factory Nissan PCV's can rattle when bad and dont rattle when good. Only way to truly test it is to blow through it both ways. Air should only be able to pass in 1 direction. But its a $4 part so no need to check anything. Just change it.

 

i dont agree with you saying that it wont rattle sometimes and still be good, but ill agree with you that its a $4 part and should just replace it. also get the grommet for it too! mine was cracked and almost fell into my crankcase when i changed my pcv valve. had to wait a week to get the damn grommet in(had to order it).

 

i would check intake for anything loose

 

alrite...so i bought a new starter from kragens...i have everything off but 1 bolt...the 17mm is a freakin b****. it's not comin off...i put WD40 on it but still...i think i'm weak...or that thing is in there freakin tight...

ne hints on getting it off?...i'm thinkin about buyin a power tool

thanks,
-Stuart