Jwad00

Hey guys i have a question, my gf has a 96 maxima SE i think? And i have a 95 GLE. Well she has the white face gauges in hers and my question is since it is the same style cluster can i find one of these and just swap it into my max? I dont see why i couldnt but thought i would ask to be on the safe side. Thanks.

lilaclucymaxima

iTrader: (16)

Yes, it can be swapped... you can swap just the faces if you want, that way you don't have to worry about the miles being different if you swap the entire cluster.

maximized98

iTrader: (16)

i did the swap back last year, and i absolutley love it now, much easier than doing the reverse gauges. And the cluster i found was very close to my mileage, so it worked out great

i did the swap back last year, and i absolutley love it now, much easier than doing the reverse gauges. And the cluster i found was very close to my mileage, so it worked out great

phenryiv1

iTrader: (19)

This is in the FAQs. I have even done it in such a way as to keep your odometer mileage accurate.

phenryiv1

iTrader: (19)

Give a man a fish...

http://forums.maxima.org/showpost.ph...2&postcount=58

jltibbs

iTrader: (1)

save some money. (click on pic)

phenryiv1

iTrader: (19)

OEMs from a junk yard are superior to the II gauge faces. I have installed both. OEM>II any day of the week.

jltibbs

iTrader: (1)

i've had no problems whatsoever out of mine. great fitment and function

phenryiv1

iTrader: (19)

I did not mean to imply that II gauges were a problem. At least you have given him another option to consider, especially if he cannot find an SE cluster.

buzpuck11

iTrader: (3)

Another option is the reverse indigo gauges.

There are also white clusters for sale on ebay.

Jwad00

yeah i was lookin at the factory SE clusters. On my truck i swapped a explorer sport track cluster in my ranger and it fit perfect so i thought same would be for the max. On my ranger though i just unscrewed the old odometer and put iut on my new white cluster. Are the maximas the same?

phenryiv1

iTrader: (19)

No. Check out the link that I posted. It explains the process of swapping the faces. I can do the whole swap in under 30 minutes.

phenryiv1

iTrader: (19)

Tools:
Socket wrench
10” (preferred) extension bar
Needle-nose pliers
Small and medium Phillips head screwdrivers
10 and 12 mm sockets

First of all, to remove the needles, DO NOT just pull them straight up! This will ruin your gauge cluster and you will be screwed.

The first step is to remove the black plastic bezel. There are screws in the underside of the trim ring. Next, you WILL need to drop your steering wheel. This requires a LONG socket extension bar (mine is 10”) and a 10mm or 12mm socket (sorry, I don’t have a 4th gen any longer so I cannot check. Lay on the floor and look up at the underside of the steering column and you will see the bolts. Hold the steering wheel up with your knee and remove the bolts. Lower the wheel. This will let you remove the black trim ring.

Now unbolt the gauge cluster. Undo the clips that hold the cover in place, then remove the black inner trim rings

You'll need a pair of pliers to remove the needle rest

With the covers removed, rotate the needle clockwise to the point where you can safely get the needle-nose pliers onto the needle stop. I wrapped the stop in cotton cloth to avoid scratching it. Just move the needle enough so that it doesn't get in your way when removing the stop. It just pops out if you pull straight up with gentle, steady pressure. If you break it, superglue can help.

After the needle rest has been removed, let the needle fall to its natural resting point. It will go past “zero.” Use gentle pressure to be sure that it is truly at “rest,” but DO NOT PUSH THE NEEDLE! Note (or mark) the natural resting point. This will be very important later!

Now for the hard part-
Using GENTLE, STEADY pressure, rotate the needle in a COUNTER-CLOCKWISE direction. You WILL feel some resistance. Continue rotating (I use just one finger) and the needle should naturally lift off of the center post. If it does not, then continue turning but gently pinch the center of the needle (the center cap may pop off) and lift GENTLY (do you see a pattern here?!?).

It will come up and off eventually. WOOT- the hard part is over!

Now, if you are swapping SE faces into a GLE/GXE, read the next part. If not, then install your aftermarket faces…
Place the needle back on the center needle post. Continuing to turn ONLY counter-clockwise, use slight downward pressure WHILE TURNING THE NEEDLE to re-set the needle on the post. It takes 3-4 passes around. DO NOT TURN IT CLOCKWISE- this unclocks the spring. Check to be sure that the needle base still has room to freely turn on the center post without contacting the face. If you push it down to far, make a turn as if you were removing the needle to get the clearance that you need.

To re-set the needle to the proper calibration point, turn it counter-clockwise and stop it at the point that you marked or noted as the “natural” resting point. If you go too far, just make another pass. To check that it is really in the right place, sweep the needle across the face (as if the car was accelerating) and let it fall. It should rest in the spot where you marked. If not, make counter-clockwise turns until it is right.

Once this is done, lift the needle to a safe range and reinstall the needle stop. Then let the needle fall back onto the rest.

From here, reinstall, reconnect the harnesses, put the dash back together, and go.

I can do the whole thing in about 30 minutes from start to finish.

lilaclucymaxima

iTrader: (16)

Agreed... I swapped my stock black faces out with white SE faces when I first had my car. Worked out fine.

Jwad00

Thanks alot for the help! Ill post pics when i get them in.