Lock Rear Tires
Hi. I wanted to lock my rear tires so that I can "smoke" the fronts on demand. Its called "line-lock", but is usually reserved for RWD cars. I can smoke my tires now, but I want to do it without moving. Someone told me you put a selinoid in and you can activate it and lock the rears. Is this true? I have ABS and am wondering if this might pose a problem. Has anyone tried/done this? I don;t want to use my e-brake as a cheap solution.
Thanks,
Erik
tifosiv122@hotmail.com
Thanks,
Erik
tifosiv122@hotmail.com
Originally posted by tifosiv122
Hi. I wanted to lock my rear tires so that I can "smoke" the fronts on demand. Its called "line-lock", but is usually reserved for RWD cars. I can smoke my tires now, but I want to do it without moving. Someone told me you put a selinoid in and you can activate it and lock the rears. Is this true? I have ABS and am wondering if this might pose a problem. Has anyone tried/done this? I don;t want to use my e-brake as a cheap solution.
Thanks,
Erik
tifosiv122@hotmail.com
Hi. I wanted to lock my rear tires so that I can "smoke" the fronts on demand. Its called "line-lock", but is usually reserved for RWD cars. I can smoke my tires now, but I want to do it without moving. Someone told me you put a selinoid in and you can activate it and lock the rears. Is this true? I have ABS and am wondering if this might pose a problem. Has anyone tried/done this? I don;t want to use my e-brake as a cheap solution.
Thanks,
Erik
tifosiv122@hotmail.com
Originally posted by Mad-MAX_SE
thats the only way im aware of to do a "standing" burnout, its not the cheap way, its like the only way. feel free to correct me if im wrong.
thats the only way im aware of to do a "standing" burnout, its not the cheap way, its like the only way. feel free to correct me if im wrong.
Erik
I'd have to agree with Mad-MAX_SE, using the e-brake is the only way to do a stand still burn out. But even if you were able to add a selinoid, that little device would just pull on the e-brake cable, just the same way your e-brake handle is worked. So why would you want to go the extra trouble and money installing a selinoid, when just pulling your e-brake handle would be a cost-effective way to do just what that selinoid is going to do.
Originally posted by tifosiv122
Which way is that the e-brake or selinoid?
Erik
Which way is that the e-brake or selinoid?
Erik
Originally posted by danny's_max
I'd have to agree with Mad-MAX_SE, using the e-brake is the only way to do a stand still burn out. But even if you were able to add a selinoid, that little device would just pull on the e-brake cable, just the same way your e-brake handle is worked. So why would you want to go the extra trouble and money installing a selinoid, when just pulling your e-brake handle would be a cost-effective way to do just what that selinoid is going to do.
I'd have to agree with Mad-MAX_SE, using the e-brake is the only way to do a stand still burn out. But even if you were able to add a selinoid, that little device would just pull on the e-brake cable, just the same way your e-brake handle is worked. So why would you want to go the extra trouble and money installing a selinoid, when just pulling your e-brake handle would be a cost-effective way to do just what that selinoid is going to do.
Erik
Originally posted by tifosiv122
Well, I tried the e-brake thing once, my car pulled it and the tires hooked up...so it didn't work. Also, using the e-brake and braking are two different things, no? Isn't it different pressure or somthing?
Erik
Well, I tried the e-brake thing once, my car pulled it and the tires hooked up...so it didn't work. Also, using the e-brake and braking are two different things, no? Isn't it different pressure or somthing?
Erik
line locking
the way i told you to burn out is also the way you can line lock the car. for those of you that don't know what that means; it means you start burning out then you start rolling after a second o two. in case some people missed what i said, first you yank on the e-brake (not to much or it'l be to hard to release) rev up your car and either dump the clutch or pull the shifter back into drive with the gas still being applied. after you feel or hear the tires spinning, or see smoke, gently let out the e-brake and the car will continue to spin the tires gradually getting a grip and the propelling you forward. now like i said before, don't go out and try it on a completely dry road, especially if its your first time. i'd recommend spraying the road in front of yourhouse with the hose, then trying it, because if you do it wrong you can seriously f*** up you car's tranny. just some advice.
Originally posted by Mad-MAX_SE
1) if you have an auto- put it in neutral rev it up to like 2000-2500 rpms then pull the shifter back into drive, i guess manuals would be the same way.
1) if you have an auto- put it in neutral rev it up to like 2000-2500 rpms then pull the shifter back into drive, i guess manuals would be the same way.
A recipe for disaster
Originally posted by Mad-MAX_SE
... if you have an auto- put it in neutral rev it up to like 2000-2500 rpms then pull the shifter back into drive ...
... if you have an auto- put it in neutral rev it up to like 2000-2500 rpms then pull the shifter back into drive ...
Re: Re: A recipe for disaster
Originally posted by SC99MaxSELmtd
I have to agree with Daniel on this one. :>
I have to agree with Daniel on this one. :>
Re: Re: Re: A recipe for disaster
Nobody is flaming you, just warning you of the potential damage this type of driving can have on expensive components in your car. If you like doing burnouts, more power to you, just be careful not to drop your tranny on the ground doing it.
btw, as an FYI, some electronically controlled auto tranny cars won't let you rev it up and drop it into gear.
this was tried on a 1996 Camry LE 4 cyl Auto. If you rev it up in neutral and drop it into gear, the revs will drop to approx 1000-2000rpm or so before the tranny will shift the car into gear.
not that my coworker at the time would try it on a rental camry or anything like that...
-V
this was tried on a 1996 Camry LE 4 cyl Auto. If you rev it up in neutral and drop it into gear, the revs will drop to approx 1000-2000rpm or so before the tranny will shift the car into gear.
not that my coworker at the time would try it on a rental camry or anything like that...
-V
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