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question about bose speaker....

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Old Feb 26, 2007 | 08:19 PM
  #1  
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question about bose speaker....

So my front passenger speaker tends to work then cut off and then start working again. Does anyone know if this is a wiring problem or a blown speaker?

Thanks in advance...
Old Feb 26, 2007 | 08:52 PM
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I would say it's a wiring problem. If it's blown, it's blown, end of story, and you would definitely know if it was blown.

As to what specifically, I'm not sure. Possibly a short? Maybe a loose connector/plug?
Old Feb 26, 2007 | 11:26 PM
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have u ever removed the headunit?
Old Feb 27, 2007 | 06:38 AM
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Wiring short.
Old Feb 27, 2007 | 09:16 AM
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remove the door panel and examine.
Old Feb 27, 2007 | 09:45 AM
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Yeah...remove the door panel and look at the speaker (I doubt it's blown if it sounds good some of the time). My best guess is it's a loose wire or short. Either way, open up the door to check.
Old Feb 27, 2007 | 10:39 AM
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i changed my head unit a little b4 x-mas actually.
could that have caused a short?
Old Feb 27, 2007 | 10:51 AM
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instructions on removing front doors ? and whats the mounting depth for a 6.5" speaker in the front door
If I was to replace the front speakers should i disconnect the Nissan tweeter ? (new speakers come with tweeters installed)

(NON BOSE) sorry to be such a hi-jacker
Old Feb 27, 2007 | 11:35 AM
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door pannel comes off by 3 screws. another in the cup on the door handle. plus manuvering the door handle thru the opening. lift up and wiggle.

speaker is held in place by 3-4 screws. tweeter doenst need to be touched. should be mounted on the a-pillar.
Old Feb 27, 2007 | 12:54 PM
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Originally Posted by bkmax98
i changed my head unit a little b4 x-mas actually.
could that have caused a short?
Possibly. It could also be a loose piece of wiring.

Did you use sealed crimp connections or soldering? I first soldered mine, but soldering is crap unless you're good at it. Crimps rarely fail and they are electrically superior to DIY soldering.

Dave
Old Feb 27, 2007 | 12:57 PM
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Originally Posted by MDeezy
door pannel comes off by 3 screws. another in the cup on the door handle. plus manuvering the door handle thru the opening. lift up and wiggle.

speaker is held in place by 3-4 screws. tweeter doenst need to be touched. should be mounted on the a-pillar.

I have a 97 my tweeter is in the door above the door handle

whats the deepest speaker i can put in ?
Old Feb 27, 2007 | 01:00 PM
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Originally Posted by bkmax98
i changed my head unit a little b4 x-mas actually.
could that have caused a short?
The head unit to another Blows head unit, or something else. Blows head units are designed to run at a different resistance than normal car stereos, and in turn so are the speakers.

I hate by pos blows head unit and can't wait to replace it.....
Old Feb 27, 2007 | 02:19 PM
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Did you install a proper adapter? Running a standard head unit to Bose speakers will damage them. They make sound, maybe even decent sound, but they burn up.

Dave
Old Feb 27, 2007 | 04:37 PM
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Originally Posted by dgeesaman
Did you install a proper adapter? Running a standard head unit to Bose speakers will damage them. They make sound, maybe even decent sound, but they burn up.

Dave
well i took it to a car audio/alarm shop to install my kenwood head unit, and I remember seeing adapters installed. Maybe I should just take it back to that shop. Thanks for everything.
Old Feb 27, 2007 | 04:47 PM
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Yeah, definitely make it their fault. Really, unless they find a reason it isn't, it IS almost certainly their fault.

Dave
Old Feb 27, 2007 | 06:27 PM
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Originally Posted by dgeesaman
Did you use sealed crimp connections or soldering? I first soldered mine, but soldering is crap unless you're good at it. Crimps rarely fail and they are electrically superior to DIY soldering.
That is the absolute exact opposite of my experience.
Old Apr 4, 2007 | 12:08 PM
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a few twists with black electrical tape works for me hahah
Old Apr 4, 2007 | 12:36 PM
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If you are still using the Bose amps to power the speakers that's you problem. The Bose amps crap out and cause a number of problems, cutting in and out is one of them. You can have your installer check their work at the headunit, but if you still have the Bose amps I'd bet that is your cause.
Old Apr 4, 2007 | 03:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Tatanko
That is the absolute exact opposite of my experience.
It did occur to me today that you must use crimping pliers to secure the connection. You can't a useful crimp from any other common hand tools. The combination wire stripper/crimper/cutter tool isn't very expensive and comes in quite handy.

Dave
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