I got two issues. Just wanted to get some feedback:

The pipe at the flange of my muffler got completely rusted through, so my muffler is no longer attached to the flange. I believe nothing can be done except to replace the muffler. Any suggestions for the muffler? I'm looking to keep the car quiet. Should I just go for an OEM muffler? Where is a good place to get an OEM muffler?

The second issue is that the bracket near the cat converter had also completely rusted through. This is the bracket that is right after the flex-hose, that is holding up the cat and the b-pipe. I believe it is the same bracket you can see in this picture (this is not my car)


http://www.greghome.com/images/Maxim...oveCatNuts.jpg

Can this bracket be replaced? What are my options? For now the pipe is just hanging.

Do you guys think this is doable by myself? I know i might have to use a lot of PB blaster + impact wrenches to get things off.

Thanks

Well, I decided to put some pics up. Sorry if this is going to make some of you cringe, i know it is not pretty!

Looking at the flange from the muffler's side


Flange from the mufflers side, the pipes are separated!


B-pipe/muffler flange from the bottom


B-pipe flange


Do you guys think the B-pipe is gone and will have to replaced as well?

 

I'll address your second issue. The bracket in that picture is holding up the Y-pipe, not the B-pipe. And yes, it can be replaced. My local dealer wanted $61 for a new Y-pipe hanger (mine was attacked by the rust fairies), but I'm gonna contact DaveB to see if I can get it cheaper. Once I get my new one, I'm going to prime it and paint it, maybe a little spray-can undercoating to really make it as rust-proof as possible. I frickin hate rust!

BTW, thanks for the pic, I've been looking for a pic of an intact Y-pipe hanger. Mine is unrecognizable!

 

$60 is better than spending money on the new pipe (which is what I was led to believe at a local shop). Let me know how much DaveB wants for it. I will probably order one as well. How difficult do you think it will be to replace it?

 

The same thing happened with my muffler/ flange. I had to replace the b-pipe and muffler. If you want quiet, get an aftermarket oem for cheap. Just don't get the one that is ridiculously cheap as it will be rusting out quickly. If you're replacing just the muffler, if the b pipe is intact that is, you should be ok with normal tools. If you need to replace the b pipe usually the cat bolts need to be cut or torched, either way is pretty easy.

 

I'm actually going to buy it this week, so I'll call DaveB on Monday. I'll PM you with a price once I find out. As far as intallation, I cannot say. It shouldn't be too difficult, I'm sure the hardest part would be getting at those rusty-*** bolts. Did I mention that I hate rust?

Why the hell would the shop make you buy a new y-pipe if the hanger (the bracket you're referring to) is rusted out and needs replacing? The y-pipe and y-pipe hanger are two separate pieces! Unless your y-pipe is in bad shape, I don't see why they'd do that, other than to rip you off and make more money.

 

I have a used hanger for sale. Its dirty but not rusted. You dont want to let it hang too long because you will ruin your flex section and need a new downpipe.

As for the first question, how is your B Pipe (the one in front of the muffler). If it is in tact but on its last legs, I would go to a shop and have them weld a patch pipe between that and the muffler until you are ready to replace both. I would also do the patch pipe if the rest of the muffler is in very good condition but the flange is shot.

 

They thought the hanger and the pipe were one piece. I was a bit surprised to hear that, it sounded like a pretty crappy way to do things. That's why I love this board, it cuts through all the BS the shops give!

p.s. thanks for letting me know bout the price

 

The car is 9 years old, and it spent most of its life in winter states, so the b-pipe looks a bit rusty, But it doesn't seem all that horrible (i'll try to get under the car today to take a pic). The muffler itself is in pretty good shape except for the flange. The body doesn't have any rust on it. Thanks for the advice on the patch pipe

 

its very hard to take off the rusted bolts. If your planning on taking off the entire b-pipe it might be possible to loosen the bolts. I just went to the shop yesterday and the bolts looked fused to the flanges. The had to torch the bolts right off.

 

My car is in a similar situation. The bolts are badly rusted, to the point I they look like rusty nubs. Removing them will probably be impossible. I've already lost an exhaust hanger and some heat shielding on the b-pipe and cat. I think I fixed one with carefully wrapped coathanger wire (if you use pliers and take your time, it's actually a useful fix). I don't have any leaks yet, but I may soon.

The stinger is this: aftermarket OEM-style parts are cheap and don't last long. The stock stuff is actually a stainless steel, and the aftermarket parts have rust before they even go on the car. If you go OEM, the prices are ridiculous, and the amount of rust on the bolts might destroy the adjacent component if they have to cut things apart.


I suggest you take it to a competent (not a chain store) exhaust shop and get their opinion on what can be re-used and what is scrap. See if they'll install used parts for you. Then find out how much the parts cost new, and maybe get used ones on the classifieds here.

It's a strange thing to me: down south or southwest many maxima owners throw away stock y-pipes, b-pipes, and cats since everyone goes aftermarket and nothing really rusts out. Up north you can't find any spare exhaust parts, and the junkyards throw it all away. I dunno how many people down south realize they can just wrap up their parts in industrial plastic wrap and sell it to us grateful northerners.

Dave

 

Went to two muffler shops. The first one said they don't weld patches when the muffler's flange goes bad. But they thought I would only need a new muffler. Total cost ~200 .. and an additional 70 to get a new hanger welded on.

The second shop I went to said that I'll most likely need a new b-pipe (they think the flange will go when they'll try to take the muffler off). Total cost ~800 (700 for parts, 100 labor). And they won't install my parts.


I found I can get Bosal muffler and b-pipe for 100 each. It should be lifetime warranty, but has anyone heard anything of Bosal? Is it any good?

If I decide to do it myself, what do you think I need (i'll probably just do the b-pipe and the muffler, I don't think i want to touch the hanger), the major issue would be getting the bolts off b/c they are rusted pretty badly. Is the dremmel tool enough? How do people do it w/ a torch?

 

i did my whole exhaust for 650 shipped.

SS y-pipe, cat, SS b-pipe and stock muffler from Car Quest. sounds good and easy to install only bolts to worry about are the ones that connect to the headers which Meineke can do for 20 bucks.

 

I've been pondering the same DIY questions myself.

I think the dremel w/cutting wheel would take forever. The bolts sometimes tend to be in tight spots.

If you can borrow a grinder with wheel maybe that would work. I've also heard of a sawzall with metal cutting blade, but I'm not sure how well that would work on the hardened steel bolts.

One thing that has me worried yet is the bolts holding all the exhaust brackets and stuff to the car. I have new brackets for the main cat since mine are all but destroyed, and I suspect the bolts that hold them to the body of the car will be rusted and the heads will snap off. If I can't get those bolts out, I won't be able to hang the new parts.

Dave

 

Was the muffler from carquest alright? Has anyone heard of bosal? You can get bosal online for about $100 .. dealer wants 275 for a new muffler.

-slava

 

I also had the same problem with my car. I drove without the middle hanger for a while until the pressure made the muffler sheer off the flange. I'm a cheapskate so I just DIY'd it. I took a peice of metal and wrapped it around the pipe where the muffler came off. I then attached some hose clamps around the ends of the metal. I also used a large hose clamp to give some extra support to the y-pipe by the flex section. I just found something to loop it to and ran it around the pipe.

So far everything has been fine for about a year. I should probably get it really fixed at some point, but it's worked so far.

 

Updated w/ pics

 

Those pittsburgh winters must be tough. I think you should get a whole cat back replacement.

 

i welded mine... according to the pic i think u can still weld the yours.

 

My Y-pipe holding bracket came off a year ago. I took a peice of 2 mm thick copper wire and put it through the hangers and around the pipe. It's working fine so far.

 

a Dremel, a drill, some Kroil or PBlaster, a new B Pipe and some new bolts. cut and drill out those Cat bolts and put a new hanger on the downpipe/cat interface. replace that B pipe (unless you plan on running a 3 inche wide weld). problem solved. new bolts also make it easier if you decide to install an aftermarket Y yourself.

 

2Da_mizzax, do you have any tips for the super-rusty and brittle bolts that hold the exhaust hangers to the car body? I already snapped off the bolt that held the grounding strap.

Dave

 

The grounding strap isnt that important. The other 2 arent botls if i remember right. they are just rods that the rubber hangers slip over. If there are bolts there and they break off inside, the only solution is to weld new rods there, or to tap a new hole and put a new bolt. Should be anything but a rod with a large head though (right where the hanger for the y-pipe/cat interface goes).