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Hard starting+Knock sensor

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Old 03-05-2007 | 03:06 PM
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Hard starting+Knock sensor

I just finished my 5 speed swap and after the 3rd day of driving the car is getting harder and harder to start. A couple of times i heard the starter jam up against my flywheel but then would start up right after that crank. Plus I keep throwing the knock sensor code. I got the sensor replaced when i bought the car at 117k. Now it has a 142k. If it keeps popping up does that mean that i need to replace it? Also would a bad knock sensor make my car start the way it is starting? Plus for about 10 seconds after I start it up it runs really rough. And itll go down to about 200 rpms then go back up to about a 1k. Any info will be appreciated.
Old 03-06-2007 | 07:04 AM
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Clean TB & IACV?
Old 03-06-2007 | 11:02 AM
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Is there any chance a sticky with the IACV? I've heard about it but not enough to rip it apart.
Old 03-06-2007 | 11:19 AM
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there's a pic of it and some info in the FAQ's, but nothing on how to take it off. It's not too hard, but it's not in a good place to get to.
Old 03-06-2007 | 11:52 AM
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How to clean IAC valve

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

The credit goes to Mango95SE for this procedure.

Tools needed:
10 and 12 mm sockets
3 inch socket extension
universal joint (swivel pivot socket thing)
12-inch rachet (a short rachet may not work - need something to apply a lot of torque to loosen the bolts
Philip's screwdriver
rag
throttle body cleaner

1. Unplug the 4 connectors from the IAC assembly. Undo the hose that connects teh IAC to the intake assembly.

2. The metal bracket holding up the gray-colored connector is blocking one of the IAC mounting bolts. Using a 10mm socket, remove the bolt that holds the metal bracket. The bolt is just below the purple connector - you have to twist your head and crane your neck around to see the bolt.

3. Remove the 3 mounting bolts using the 12mm socket. The lowest bolt may require the Universal joint.

4. Pull out your IAC valve and clean it w/throttle body cleaner, rag, and old toothbrush.

You may even want to separate the plastic valve to clean it more thoroughly. Use a philip's head screwdriver, but make sure it is a snug fight. It's on there tight and if you don't have a good fitting screwdriver, you could ruin the screw head.

Reinstallation is just the reverse of these steps. It may be easier access to the IAC if you remove the whole air intake assembly, but it's not necessary.
Old 03-06-2007 | 06:51 PM
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Thanks i'll do it this friday and i'll post up after i'm done
Old 03-06-2007 | 07:42 PM
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m'kay, no prob
Old 03-07-2007 | 06:10 PM
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I think you need to check your MAF sensor. Also, check the wiring harness on your knock sensor (test for broken connection) and check torque of KS.
Old 03-07-2007 | 06:19 PM
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kk will do. thanks guys.
Old 03-09-2007 | 12:26 AM
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MAF sensor is going slowly... find/order one soon b4 this one dies...
i had a similar problem in my car, theres a post in here somewhere which tell u how to check your MAF. according to the post my MAF was fine. when i tapped the MAF the car would shut off... i replaced the MAF and dont have this problem now.
Old 03-13-2007 | 09:44 AM
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RIDICULOUS.

How comes that on every tranny swap the engine get hard to start??

I have the same problem, put abour 1000$ to test try new things and I still have a crack crack crack BOOM, crack CRANK .... crank....... Boum...CRANk ckank ..oups... the engine finnaly start. LIKE THIS : http://videos.streetfire.net/video/8...8f0096156c.htm
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