Stuck bolts
Stuck bolts
I am replacing my wheel bearing right now, and i have all the bolts out except one. I am stuck on the bolt that attaches the spindle to the LCA. I have used lots of Liquid wrench, and even tried heating it up. What else can i do to get it off, it is a PITA trying to get off. Any suggestions? thanks
I dont know what tools/facilities you are dealing with, but I would try to whack the LCA and shock it, then heat up the area 1/2" around the bolt, and use some leverage, if you can hit whatever you're using(ratchet, wrench) with a hammer that may break it loose.
If it is spinning then you have a problem and need to change your ball joint. If it isnt spinning, first make sure you have removed the cotter pin, take out the axle, and use a 1/2 inch drive with a breaker bar. If that doesnt get it off, it is siezed on and has to be torched or cut off.
I am assuming you mean the nut on the ball joint. As seen here in my blatant rip off of the FSM:

If that is it, you need a ball join separater. Which you can get at Harbor freight for cheap http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=38649 or more than likely borrow one for free from an auto supply store. It's pretty hard to remove it without the tool. Good luck...

If that is it, you need a ball join separater. Which you can get at Harbor freight for cheap http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=38649 or more than likely borrow one for free from an auto supply store. It's pretty hard to remove it without the tool. Good luck...
It does just spin when i try to take it off, so i had a friend of mine hold it while i used a 6 foot breaker bar on it. I does spin around that, so that means i need a new one? If i get a seperator, then how does the new one go in?
you use the seperator to remove teh ball joint stud from the steering knuckle. In this instance, you can try to release the nut while someone else is prying down on the seperator. when you pry on it (assuming it has already come loose from the knuckle) the extra friction may allow you to get the nut off. Only problem is, once that stud is rotating, it is pretty much time for a new one anyhow. You can replace it with a MOOG and the same shop that is pressing in the wheel bearings will be able to press in the new ball joint.
To be sure you need a new one check for resistance when you get it out of the knuckle.
To be sure you need a new one check for resistance when you get it out of the knuckle.
you can use the ball joint separator to try and keep the whole bolt from spinning.
. place it between the LCA and the knuckle and pry down. pry hard enough and the bolt will stop spinning allowing you to remove the nut. problem is, when you use that tool, you can sometimes tear the boot covering the ball joint. this lets the grease out. another problem is that if you can spin the bolt using your fingers (or it spins fairly easily) the ball joint is probably worn and now is as good a time as any to to change it.
. place it between the LCA and the knuckle and pry down. pry hard enough and the bolt will stop spinning allowing you to remove the nut. problem is, when you use that tool, you can sometimes tear the boot covering the ball joint. this lets the grease out. another problem is that if you can spin the bolt using your fingers (or it spins fairly easily) the ball joint is probably worn and now is as good a time as any to to change it.
If the knuckle is all the way to the left, as if the car was turning right, and i spin it to the right, the bolt on top spins with it. It does not spin loosely with my fingers, so would the seperater be any help? Is my ball joint broken?
I had the exact same problem last month when I replaced my wheel bearings. Take a dremel-like tool and make a long deep cut on the side of the castle nut. Then insert a large flat head screwdriver in there and twist it to break it loose from the tension on the bolt. You should be able to spin the nut off after that. Good luck on it.
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