k...well i just did my water pump. When i took out the water pump i turned the crank about 20deg counter clockwise to give me slack in the chain to get the water pump out...

When i got the new one in...i went to install the tensioner back in to finish it all up and i noticed that the chain and the guide were in the way...so i pushed it to the side...when i did this i think i pulled the slack off the chain from the water pump side over...

Im about to install the tensioner and pull the crank a few times over to c if i can hear the any pistons hitting the valves...but i dont know...

Im really scared to start the car if i turned the cams without turning the crank....ima be in a world of hurt if this is the case...

Any input would be greatly appreciated...

 

let me get this straight -- do you think the chain may have slipped over the crank sprocket when you pushed it aside by hand? or is it that you think you turned the cams when you pushed the chain aside?

I think I see your concern. but I'd be surprised if you could do either by simply pushing on the TC by hand. how hard did you push it? the cams are pushing on lifters and valves that do not move easily, and I don't think there's enough slack in the chain to skip over the crank.

but yeah, if you did shift the timing you are screwed. time to take off the TC cover and line everything up. before you do that, just return the crank back it's original position, install the tensioner, and see what happens. even if you did skip a tooth I don't think it would be enough to cause piston-valve interference. it would run like sh*t though.

Edit: thinking this through a little more, I don't think it matters if you did turn the cams. the position of the sprockets relative to the chain would not change, and you're fine. it's just slack moving back and forth. the only concern is if the chain slipped over the crank sprocket, which I don't think is possible. just return the crank, install the tensioner, and call it good.

 

Ok kewl...yea the movement i made with the chain was very smooth and not really too difficult...required a lil help but it wasnt like i was tuggin on the chain or anything...just put a lil weight on it...

As far as returning the crank what do you mean? I followed the write up on the stickies and it doesnt mension turning the crank back...just turning the water pump clockwise to get rid of the slack between the crank and waterpump....

 

It's similar to what he's talking about. In the write up I believe it says turn the cranks to give slack and once the pump is installed turn the crank the back to rid of the slack. It doesn't really matter. I'm sure it's impossible to mess up timing replacing the water pump.

 

Yea i figured...but if its never been done before...im sure i would be the first to have it happen....

I think im just paranoid...Ive been working on the max for a week or so now on and off getting all my new mods installed...once you start doing so much u start questioning yourself along the way too much...haha...well im about to start it up tonight, ill post with the results hehe

 

Started it a few days ago...havent drove it but it started like a dream

 

How does the TC cover come off. I have all the bolts on the front of it removed, but it won't budge at the bottom. The alternator bolt and power steering pulley are out of the way. Do I have to remove the upper and lower oil pans first? This is on a 96 GLE.

 

Take off the lower oil pan, two bolts in there. To the OP: Eh, it happens. My left cam sprocket got set 90 degrees out when I did my water pump. Cranked it over maybe 20 times, reset the timing and not a problem. Is the VQ even interference? My experience there would say either no or I'm damn lucky.

 

Im am 99% sure that the VQ IS indeed a interferance motor (or whatever u call it). But even with that in mind i believe you would have to REALLY mess up the positions of the cam sprockets (in relation to the Crank) alot before you would get any kind of piston to valve contact...Thats just my opinion...