Are calipers easy to install?
03-09-2007, 12:58 PM
#2
Originally Posted by 1Phat Max
I need to replace both rear calipers as they are seized and only riding on fronts. Is it easy to do? Any writeups?
03-09-2007, 05:55 PM
#6
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Yeah its only two bolts that hold the caliper on, another bolt for the brake line. But you have to make sure you fill the caliper with some brake fluid and then bleed all the air out. Air anywhere in the system is a big problem.
03-09-2007, 11:11 PM
#7
When your hands are covered in brake fluid (and you're wearing a glove as used fluid is not good for bare skin), try putting a copper washer and hand tightening banjo bolts. I ended up doing it without gloves and it was still slippery as heck. How quickly/lucky you are in installing the line/washer/banjo bolt to the new caliper will determine how much fluid you spill.
Brake fluid is bad for paint, remember that when you make a mess.
Once you have installed the new calipers, you should only have to bleed the rears (non ABS, not sure about ABS). You could bleed the front as well as it's a good time to "flush" the lines of old fluid and get new fluid in the system. Do not bleed the system until you have installed the new brake pads and positioned them correctly over the rotor. If you attempt to flush without the pad and rotor in place, you will risk pushing the piston out more than you want.
Brake fluid is bad for paint, remember that when you make a mess.
Once you have installed the new calipers, you should only have to bleed the rears (non ABS, not sure about ABS). You could bleed the front as well as it's a good time to "flush" the lines of old fluid and get new fluid in the system. Do not bleed the system until you have installed the new brake pads and positioned them correctly over the rotor. If you attempt to flush without the pad and rotor in place, you will risk pushing the piston out more than you want.
03-09-2007, 11:24 PM
#9
Originally Posted by phatmax95
The rear caliper pistons also need to be turned in, not pushed as the fronts do. They sell the $5 tool at parts stores.
03-12-2007, 06:35 AM
#12
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I often wonder why people who don't have the proper tools want to work on their cars. I understand you can rent a specific tool for a specific job, but you need a full set of tools in case you run into trouble.
I can't count how many times I've started a repair job thinking I would only need the basic tools like a sockets and ratchet, finding out that I would need something else like a bigger wrench or extension, etc to get the job done. I also could not live without the air impact wrenches I've invested in. It has removed bolts that I could not budge with a breaker bar.
I'm not trying to discourage you and caliper replacement is easy, but I would invest in some tools if you plan to do this on a regular basis. The biggest problem for a novice replacing calipers is bleeding the brake system. Without a pressure bleeder or the "speed bleeders" it is a 2 man job for a novice. Make sure the guy who tightens the bleeder valve does it all the way until the flow stops. My son and his friend made this mistake one time and it was a good thing I checked their work before they put the car back on the road.
I can't count how many times I've started a repair job thinking I would only need the basic tools like a sockets and ratchet, finding out that I would need something else like a bigger wrench or extension, etc to get the job done. I also could not live without the air impact wrenches I've invested in. It has removed bolts that I could not budge with a breaker bar.
I'm not trying to discourage you and caliper replacement is easy, but I would invest in some tools if you plan to do this on a regular basis. The biggest problem for a novice replacing calipers is bleeding the brake system. Without a pressure bleeder or the "speed bleeders" it is a 2 man job for a novice. Make sure the guy who tightens the bleeder valve does it all the way until the flow stops. My son and his friend made this mistake one time and it was a good thing I checked their work before they put the car back on the road.
03-12-2007, 06:50 AM
#13
Originally Posted by Ciucca
I often wonder why people who don't have the proper tools want to work on their cars. I understand you can rent a specific tool for a specific job, but you need a full set of tools in case you run into trouble.
I can't count how many times I've started a repair job thinking I would only need the basic tools like a sockets and ratchet, finding out that I would need something else like a bigger wrench or extension, etc to get the job done. I also could not live without the air impact wrenches I've invested in. It has removed bolts that I could not budge with a breaker bar.
I'm not trying to discourage you and caliper replacement is easy, but I would invest in some tools if you plan to do this on a regular basis. The biggest problem for a novice replacing calipers is bleeding the brake system. Without a pressure bleeder or the "speed bleeders" it is a 2 man job for a novice. Make sure the guy who tightens the bleeder valve does it all the way until the flow stops. My son and his friend made this mistake one time and it was a good thing I checked their work before they put the car back on the road.
I can't count how many times I've started a repair job thinking I would only need the basic tools like a sockets and ratchet, finding out that I would need something else like a bigger wrench or extension, etc to get the job done. I also could not live without the air impact wrenches I've invested in. It has removed bolts that I could not budge with a breaker bar.
I'm not trying to discourage you and caliper replacement is easy, but I would invest in some tools if you plan to do this on a regular basis. The biggest problem for a novice replacing calipers is bleeding the brake system. Without a pressure bleeder or the "speed bleeders" it is a 2 man job for a novice. Make sure the guy who tightens the bleeder valve does it all the way until the flow stops. My son and his friend made this mistake one time and it was a good thing I checked their work before they put the car back on the road.
preparation is the key. Always when I 'm going to tackle a job, I imagine all the tools that will be needed, and I get them out and ready so when i start the job, I have all that is needed.
there has never been a bolt I couldn't move with a break bar, leverage is the key, but air tools are a thing of beauty.
03-12-2007, 07:05 AM
#14
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Join Date: Apr 2004
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Originally Posted by MDeezy
preparation is the key. Always when I 'm going to tackle a job, I imagine all the tools that will be needed, and I get them out and ready so when i start the job, I have all that is needed.
there has never been a bolt I couldn't move with a break bar, leverage is the key, but air tools are a thing of beauty.
there has never been a bolt I couldn't move with a break bar, leverage is the key, but air tools are a thing of beauty.
03-12-2007, 07:17 AM
#15
Originally Posted by Ciucca
I think there is less chance of snapping a bolt head off with an air ratchet. At least I never have since I owned one.
you are absolutely correct. It depends on the age of the bolt, I've faced bolt that were in decent shape, and they came out, but older bolts, would benefit from an air ratchet or impact wrench, otherwise the force being put on them with hand tools will more than likely break the bolt.
Anti-seize has been my friend.
03-12-2007, 09:57 AM
#18
Hand pumps are nothing but frustrating. I had one and threw it out the same day. If you dont have speed bleeders just get a helper to either work the bleeder or the brake pedal. Make sure to watch the fluid in the Master Cylinder Resivoir. You dont want to run it empty.
03-12-2007, 10:12 AM
#19
Originally Posted by Dubbya
Hand pumps are nothing but frustrating. I had one and threw it out the same day. If you dont have speed bleeders just get a helper to either work the bleeder or the brake pedal. Make sure to watch the fluid in the Master Cylinder Resivoir. You dont want to run it empty.
they can be, I've managed to work mine and its been helpful, but I am in search now for good speed bleeders for my brakes, and for my clutch line if I can find one.
03-13-2007, 09:43 AM
#20
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I just replaced the rear calipers, rotors, pads this past weekend. After taking my time on the first side, the other side took about 20 minutes.
tip - When installing the new pads, grease the metal clips, and with the caliper rotated off one of its mounting bolts, place the new pads in the fixed bracket that loops over the rotor, then loop the caliper over the new pads.
Next weekend, I'm replacing both parking brake cables, which were the reason that I had to do all that in the first place (frozen cable syndrome)
bleed all four wheels, not just the rears. It's easy with a second person pumping and holding the brake pedal. Only tools needed are a ten mm open end for bleeding, and 12 & 14 mm sockets. I also got the autozone kit for turning in the caliper pistons, far better than needlenose pliers or the cube ratchet tool
tip - When installing the new pads, grease the metal clips, and with the caliper rotated off one of its mounting bolts, place the new pads in the fixed bracket that loops over the rotor, then loop the caliper over the new pads.
Next weekend, I'm replacing both parking brake cables, which were the reason that I had to do all that in the first place (frozen cable syndrome)
bleed all four wheels, not just the rears. It's easy with a second person pumping and holding the brake pedal. Only tools needed are a ten mm open end for bleeding, and 12 & 14 mm sockets. I also got the autozone kit for turning in the caliper pistons, far better than needlenose pliers or the cube ratchet tool
03-15-2007, 08:23 PM
#21
I agree that the two-man system is superior to anything else. I have read MANY reviews as far as this goes, especially before doing it myself. When you work with a second person, you can get the rhythm down just right. The biggest negatives with speed bleeders are the potential for failure, the inability to pressurize before release (knocking more bubbles loose), and the potential for the spring inside to relax over time and lead to leaks.
The key, however way you do it, is to make sure that you have ALL of the air out of your system. Sponginess means air or leaks, so a firm pedal is a must.
The key, however way you do it, is to make sure that you have ALL of the air out of your system. Sponginess means air or leaks, so a firm pedal is a must.
03-19-2007, 10:50 AM
#22
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When the Speed Bleeders are fully closed they act the same way as regular bleeders, that is the "spring" inside is not keeping the fluid from leaking out. The bleeder is fully seated into the caliper preventing the fluid from escaping. The value system only comes into play after loosening a 1/4 turn to bleed the brakes. The valve only prevents the fluid (with possible air bubbles) from "backing up" into the caliper after the pressure on the brake is released.
So to me there is no more risk of failure while driving than a regular bleeder valve, and easier than getting the wife or my friend (beer cost must be factored into the brake job) to step on the brake pedal. It also is less messy than the pressure bleeder.
So to me there is no more risk of failure while driving than a regular bleeder valve, and easier than getting the wife or my friend (beer cost must be factored into the brake job) to step on the brake pedal. It also is less messy than the pressure bleeder.
03-19-2007, 11:15 AM
#23
I had to the pass rear on mine yesterday too. Only about 90min and that included pulling off the rotor and wirebrushing off rust and redoing that with anti-sieze.
A note for anybody buying Fenco calipers from Autozone. The latest ones don't have good square notches in the piston to grab. Needlenose pliers slip and you MUST have some type of tool to turn them in. The ones I bought last year weren't like that.
My list of must-have tools incl speedbleeders & hose, stainless brake lines, vinyl gloves, wire brushes, caliper grease, anti-sieze, and emery cloth.
A note for anybody buying Fenco calipers from Autozone. The latest ones don't have good square notches in the piston to grab. Needlenose pliers slip and you MUST have some type of tool to turn them in. The ones I bought last year weren't like that.
My list of must-have tools incl speedbleeders & hose, stainless brake lines, vinyl gloves, wire brushes, caliper grease, anti-sieze, and emery cloth.
03-19-2007, 11:26 AM
#24
Originally Posted by Ciucca
So to me there is no more risk of failure while driving than a regular bleeder valve, and easier than getting the wife or my friend (beer cost must be factored into the brake job) to step on the brake pedal. It also is less messy than the pressure bleeder.
I think the speedbleers serve very well, for those who dont always have an extra person around to help, especially if you (for some reason) need to change your caliper before work, its 1am and who else is awake to help you bleed? Speed bleeders are there ( damn I sound like i'm advertising for them
)
03-27-2007, 10:58 AM
#25
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Join Date: Apr 2004
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Originally Posted by MDeezy
so far everyone on here has given speed bleeders a excellent review and all were pleased with them. I think the makers of speed bleeders would do the R&D to make sure the bleeders wont leak. Imagine if one didnt it cause just one person to get injured as a result of the faulty bleeder, that lawsuit would shut them down. I'm sure they have though of this also and made sure each one wont fail.
I think the speedbleers serve very well, for those who dont always have an extra person around to help, especially if you (for some reason) need to change your caliper before work, its 1am and who else is awake to help you bleed? Speed bleeders are there ( damn I sound like i'm advertising for them )
I think the speedbleers serve very well, for those who dont always have an extra person around to help, especially if you (for some reason) need to change your caliper before work, its 1am and who else is awake to help you bleed? Speed bleeders are there ( damn I sound like i'm advertising for them
)Agree totally! I was responding to the previous poster "cam.. something" who said "The biggest negatives with speed bleeders are the potential for failure.." I was trying to alleviate the fear it may cause with the casual weekend mechanic who might believe everything they read on the internet and this board. Not that there is ever any wrong information posted here.
04-07-2007, 01:06 PM
#26
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Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 7
I have the square Autozone tool for opening up the caliper and the only way it worked well was when I put the caliper in a vise on a bench so I could apply a lot of pressure while I turned. Not simple but not definitely not easy.
07-15-2007, 10:44 AM
#29
Originally Posted by silverfox1
I replaced the rear caliper once in the dark in 30 degree weather in 20 minutes with a flashlight in my mouth.
damn that impresive! most impresive!
07-16-2007, 04:07 AM
#38
Originally Posted by mendon11
hate to keep this thing going but since its already been brought back to life 
i'm replacing my calipers soon as well and am ordering online. question is, what is this core charge??
i'm replacing my calipers soon as well and am ordering online. question is, what is this core charge??
07-16-2007, 10:49 AM
#40
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Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 4
all this talk about changing a brake caliper. wow. very simple, dont need a special tool either, just a pair of good needle nose pliers worked fine on the rear calipers, good old fasion c-clamps on the fronts. so what have i got to do to get any info about the site custommaxima.com or customenterprise.com? what happened to the web page?