How long before ur new KS bring back power?
#1
How long before ur new KS bring back power?
I installed my new knock sensor 3 days and 100 miles ago. Haven't noticed the power change yet, and I do remember how it should run before. Just wondering how long (days or miles) did you get the power back after replacing the knock sensor? I check the code and it's clean. I am wondering if the sensor is not sensitive enough. I'll try to retighten the bolt later.
#2
Don't overtighten it or it will be too sensitive!!!! Just have patience. Tightness would make it give you anymore power. If anything, it'll make ti more sensitive and rob you of power. (You also must be using 91+ octane)
#8
Guest
Posts: n/a
there's a silent minority here that contends a new KS will not give you a big noticeable power gain, especially with a slush box for a transmission. I am one of them. I'm sick of arguing it, but the only difference between a bad KS and a good KS is about 10deg timing under hard acceleration >4k RPM. 10deg may be a lot, or maybe not, but I never felt it either.
here's an interesting read about knock sensors and emissions testing...
(for clarity, the VQ30 uses the passive "second design")
http://www.gatewaycleanair.com/mechanic/air6_3/dtr.htm
here's an interesting read about knock sensors and emissions testing...
(for clarity, the VQ30 uses the passive "second design")
http://www.gatewaycleanair.com/mechanic/air6_3/dtr.htm
#9
When you got the KS out did you maybe damage any of the wires?
Also is the KS you put in a new one or did you buy it used? Im thinking either improperly tightened, bad KS again or the wires are damaged.
Also is the KS you put in a new one or did you buy it used? Im thinking either improperly tightened, bad KS again or the wires are damaged.
#11
Originally Posted by sky jumper
there's a silent minority here that contends a new KS will not give you a big noticeable power gain, especially with a slush box for a transmission. I am one of them. I'm sick of arguing it, but the only difference between a bad KS and a good KS is about 10deg timing under hard acceleration >4k RPM. 10deg may be a lot, or maybe not, but I never felt it either.
here's an interesting read about knock sensors and emissions testing...
(for clarity, the VQ30 uses the passive "second design")
http://www.gatewaycleanair.com/mechanic/air6_3/dtr.htm
here's an interesting read about knock sensors and emissions testing...
(for clarity, the VQ30 uses the passive "second design")
http://www.gatewaycleanair.com/mechanic/air6_3/dtr.htm
#12
Originally Posted by qazplm1999
I bought it from an online store, supposely new. If the sensor or the wire is damaged, it would trigger a code, wouldn't it?
#13
Originally Posted by sky jumper
there's a silent minority here that contends a new KS will not give you a big noticeable power gain, especially with a slush box for a transmission. I am one of them. I'm sick of arguing it, but the only difference between a bad KS and a good KS is about 10deg timing under hard acceleration >4k RPM. 10deg may be a lot, or maybe not, but I never felt it either.
here's an interesting read about knock sensors and emissions testing...
(for clarity, the VQ30 uses the passive "second design")
http://www.gatewaycleanair.com/mechanic/air6_3/dtr.htm
here's an interesting read about knock sensors and emissions testing...
(for clarity, the VQ30 uses the passive "second design")
http://www.gatewaycleanair.com/mechanic/air6_3/dtr.htm
#17
Originally Posted by mazzivart
Im not sure if you have ever driven a max with a bad KS then you put in a new one. The change is night and day. My autos 0 to 60 dropped from mid to high 10's to mid 7's. (self timed multiple times.) I am a believer in a good new KS.
#18
Guest
Posts: n/a
Originally Posted by mazzivart
Im not sure if you have ever driven a max with a bad KS then you put in a new one. The change is night and day. My autos 0 to 60 dropped from mid to high 10's to mid 7's. (self timed multiple times.) I am a believer in a good new KS.
#19
Originally Posted by sky jumper
not only have I driven on a good & bad KS, but I carefully examined the actual ignition timing using an OBDII scanner on both a good and bad KS over the course of several months and several thousand miles (switching back & forth and resetting the ECU many times). my own observations of the actual timing advance are what I based my previous post on -- little difference in timing, and no noticeable change in power, or MPG for that matter. this agrees with the theory behind its operation, the FSM, outside sources (as linked to above), etc. like I said I'm sick of arguing it. people will believe what they want to believe. IMO, if your 0-60 times truly dropped that much then there was something else going on with your engine. of course I don't expect you to agree with that, and I know you will deny it. and that's fine. we can agree to disagree.
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