I installed my new knock sensor 3 days and 100 miles ago. Haven't noticed the power change yet, and I do remember how it should run before. Just wondering how long (days or miles) did you get the power back after replacing the knock sensor? I check the code and it's clean. I am wondering if the sensor is not sensitive enough. I'll try to retighten the bolt later.

Don't overtighten it or it will be too sensitive!!!! Just have patience. Tightness would make it give you anymore power. If anything, it'll make ti more sensitive and rob you of power. (You also must be using 91+ octane)

Thanks for the reply. I always use 91 octane fuel.

Well when I did mine I felt the renewed power the first time I drove it. You either tighted it to much or you left it to loose. also reset your ECU. That may help.

I did reset my ECU and checked it couple of times since, and it's clean.

Instantly/first drive.

Did you bolt it down to the proper torque specification?

I don't have a torque wrench. Just snug plus 1/4 turn.

there's a silent minority here that contends a new KS will not give you a big noticeable power gain, especially with a slush box for a transmission. I am one of them. I'm sick of arguing it, but the only difference between a bad KS and a good KS is about 10deg timing under hard acceleration >4k RPM. 10deg may be a lot, or maybe not, but I never felt it either.

here's an interesting read about knock sensors and emissions testing...
(for clarity, the VQ30 uses the passive "second design")
http://www.gatewaycleanair.com/mechanic/air6_3/dtr.htm

When you got the KS out did you maybe damage any of the wires?
Also is the KS you put in a new one or did you buy it used? Im thinking either improperly tightened, bad KS again or the wires are damaged.

I bought it from an online store, supposely new. If the sensor or the wire is damaged, it would trigger a code, wouldn't it?

Im not sure if you have ever driven a max with a bad KS then you put in a new one. The change is night and day. My autos 0 to 60 dropped from mid to high 10's to mid 7's. (self timed multiple times.) I am a believer in a good new KS.

The ECU will register a code but the CEL wont come on. Before you replaced it did you have a KS code?

Thank you for the information.

Yes, I had a KS code before I replaced it, and now the KS code is gone.

Try retightening it and then take a test drive.

About one month ago, my cam sensor went bad. After I replaced it, I felt the renewed power right away, but it only last two days and went back to the old lag. I don't understand that part either.

Mine was killing gas mileage but I didn't notice any real power increase when changing out the ks. It's not always the case to see increased power. I was more concerned with gettin some mpg back.

not only have I driven on a good & bad KS, but I carefully examined the actual ignition timing using an OBDII scanner on both a good and bad KS over the course of several months and several thousand miles (switching back & forth and resetting the ECU many times). my own observations of the actual timing advance are what I based my previous post on -- little difference in timing, and no noticeable change in power, or MPG for that matter. this agrees with the theory behind its operation, the FSM, outside sources (as linked to above), etc. like I said I'm sick of arguing it. people will believe what they want to believe. IMO, if your 0-60 times truly dropped that much then there was something else going on with your engine. of course I don't expect you to agree with that, and I know you will deny it. and that's fine. we can agree to disagree.

Thats cool. Im glad you are someone that did your own research on the issue and not someone who just followed what others said. I respect that. I'll agree with you to agree to disagree.