Vibration at highway speeds

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Mar 19, 2007 | 09:23 PM
  #1  
I have a really bad vibration whenever I drive at highway speeds. Driving around town i don't feel it. It's nice and smooth. When I get at about 60 to 75 mph I get the vibes. I recently replaced the cv axles, shocks and springs. I also installed a set of G35 17's. I had the tires mounted and balanced at a Walmart. I was thinking it might not be balanced. I can literally see the steering wheel shaking. I also get it in the gas pedal, but it isn't that bad.

Anyone got any suggestions?
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Mar 19, 2007 | 09:29 PM
  #2  
Also, haven't gotten an alignment yet and the vibration seems to be coming from the passenger side.
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Mar 19, 2007 | 10:21 PM
  #3  
I have the same problem. Smooth as silk around town, but as soon as I hit the highway at around 70ish steering wheel starts to vibrate quite a lot. I always assumed it was because the struts/suspension are stock and could stand to be replaced. I don't think it has anything to do with tire balance because my suspension feels kinda hard too if im going over rail road tracks or hit a pot hole.
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Mar 20, 2007 | 06:18 AM
  #4  
yeah...i'm experiencing the same thing. Seems fine (although a little "loose") around town, but get some bad vibration going past 63mi/h. I though i just needed an allignment, but it turns out that my sway bar endlinks are shot, as well as the control arm bushings. SO, the guys @ my shop told me that it would just be easier to just get new control arms (they come with bushings and and ball joints) as well as new swaybar endlinks. I bought those already (about $250worth of parts) I was gona go and get those done on Satruday, but we had that ice/snow storm, so now i gotta wait another week!

SO, i'll let you guys know how that goes.
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Mar 20, 2007 | 06:35 AM
  #5  
Quote: Also, haven't gotten an alignment yet and the vibration seems to be coming from the passenger side.
thats what i was going to recommend. i had vibrations around 70-80 until a couple weeks ago when i had an alignment done.
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Mar 20, 2007 | 07:13 AM
  #6  
Could be snow in the wheels but guessing on your location it probably isn' t that. Get your wheels balanced, and if that's not its probably a more serious problem.
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Mar 20, 2007 | 09:07 AM
  #7  
Alignment usually doesn't cause vibrations. It's usually a balancing problem, bad tire, or bent wheel.

Dave
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Mar 20, 2007 | 09:11 AM
  #8  
Quote: Alignment usually doesn't cause vibrations. It's usually a balancing problem, bad tire, or bent wheel.

Dave
Pretty much what he said.
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Mar 20, 2007 | 05:07 PM
  #9  
I really don't believe that it is the balance, but I will take it in to another shop to have them look at it.
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Mar 20, 2007 | 07:37 PM
  #10  
almost everyone has that problem... i have the exact same problem but i kinda brush it aside, im kinda use to it now, but im gonna eventually check it out
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Mar 20, 2007 | 07:47 PM
  #11  
i used to have this puzzling problem until i figured it out by accident.

When winter came around i rotated my tires and the ones i put on the back were the bad ones, the vibration became a lot less (about 2/3 of what it used to be). my two tires that were on the front were not perfectly round and that caused the vibration

here is how u can test your tires: lift the car will all 4 wheels in the air, go to each wheel and spin it, if u see the wheel wobbling (like an egg thats spun) then u have crappy tires that are not perfectly round, look at the tire from the side and from the front/rear of the vehicle, you should not see any deviation while the wheel is spinning.

Do this to each wheel to determine which one is causing it. my mechanic said the cause COULD BE (not 100%) is that someone may have had an emergency situation at high speed and locked the breaks thus causing the tire rubber to get "eaten" on one spot causing the tire to become unballanced. this doesnt make sense for my car because i have ABS and the tires still spin while breaking tho.

but there is no harm in trying. (PS dont forget to wait a few minuted before u spin each tire because once u take the load of the tires by lifting the car the tire needs some time to recover from the pressure)
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Mar 21, 2007 | 05:20 AM
  #12  
I know my tires aren't eaten on one side. They are brand new. My wheels are brand new also. I'm going int today to see if one's not balanced.
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Mar 21, 2007 | 08:03 AM
  #13  
it's not a tire balance issue or a tire quality/roundness issue. I have this problem too and I know for a fact my tires are in perfect condition and the balance is correct. Also, since many other ppl seem to have the same problem, it's more likely this is a more complex issue than everyone's tires being unbalanced and ovular tire shape. I'm sure that's the issue for some people but there is some other facter at hand here like suspension or something.
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Mar 21, 2007 | 08:34 AM
  #14  
apparently everyone seems to have ignored my post. Check all your bushings/endlinks before theorizing about balancing
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Mar 21, 2007 | 07:31 PM
  #15  
mike, go to first chance. let Todd check it out bro.
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Mar 21, 2007 | 07:54 PM
  #16  
Quote: mike, go to first chance. let Todd check it out bro.
Thanks bro. I'm was gonna give those guys a call tomorrow.
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Mar 22, 2007 | 02:57 AM
  #17  
Quote: I know my tires aren't eaten on one side. They are brand new. My wheels are brand new also. I'm going int today to see if one's not balanced.
Well then if you're absolutely convinced of this, rotate the tires and see if the vibration moves with it. Suspension problems won't move from one corner to the next.

Wheels are not hard to bend, and tires can be bad when brand new. Don't be silly and assume they are good.

Dave
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Mar 22, 2007 | 06:32 AM
  #18  
cant rotate w/o another mount and balance. the wheels have different offsets.
Quote: I also installed a set of G35 17's
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Mar 22, 2007 | 09:11 AM
  #19  
That's fine - then I would take it all back to the shop that just mounted/balanced and have them re-check the balance. It's entirely possible that a balancing weight fell off, for example.

Also, there is absolutely such a thing as a bad tire - it's important to at least make a visual inspection for delamination or bulging.

And finally, the wheel could have been bent either during installation or on the road. The shop checking balance should have no problem mounting a dial indicator and checking the rim runout.

Dave
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Mar 28, 2007 | 06:44 PM
  #20  
I got the same problem. It's got some vibrations around 70, and it'd be gone when I hit 75 and above. More serverely when I make a slight turn.

Took it to a garage today. They said I need to do some balance. Well $20 not too bad. Now it's smooth when above 70 even up to 85.

BUT....... It's killing me when driving around town. Between 20-30, feels like front tires got something on them, (probably passenger side), NO vibration but I do feel a lot of almost like a pull-back or like the tire is not perfectly round. A periodically noise feeling from the wheel, WTF?!
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Mar 28, 2007 | 07:23 PM
  #21  
Took the car to a shop with a road force balancer. They said they use a scale to determine if a tire is balanced. They said that it has to be 26 and under. Apparently, my front tires were at a 35 and 40. I had them balanced to a 14 and 19. It cost me 13.00 for the balance.

I drove tha car afterwards and it was a hell of a lot better. I haven't gotten it up to 70 yet. I'll do it in the mornign on the way to work. I did however get a small vibration but it's nothing like it was before. I only got the front tires balanced andI plan on doing the rear this weekend. Also, I don't have an alignment so that is probably why I have a slight vibration now.
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Mar 28, 2007 | 07:32 PM
  #22  
I finally went in to replace my LCAs, bushings/balljoints, sway bar endlinks and bushings. WOW car feels so tight and responsive (dare i say: "Like new")
Now i need an allignment.
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Mar 29, 2007 | 04:56 AM
  #23  
Quote: I finally went in to replace my LCAs, bushings/balljoints, sway bar endlinks and bushings. WOW car feels so tight and responsive (dare i say: "Like new")
Now i need an allignment.
How much did all that run you and where did you get them.
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Mar 29, 2007 | 07:45 AM
  #24  
wel, let's seeeeee. The LCAs i got from ebay for $160 (ball joints & bushings included) the're the "good ones" not the ones that some people on this board bought a while back. It was like another $30 for the TRW swaybar endlinks, and $15 for the energy suspension swaybar bushings.

As for the labor, i think i got a pretty good deal @ $250 (I also had the thermostat changed)

I also got new Bridgestone Potenza RE960AS Pole Position tires (those cost more than labor for the suspesion work ) But talk about handling/cornering! I can't wait to have my baby alligned and hit the highway!

linkage:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...9130851&rd=1,1

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...0963276&rd=1,1

OR get the full package (minus the swaybar bushings)


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Ball-...5250QQtcZphoto
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Mar 29, 2007 | 04:43 PM
  #25  
I had some vibration at the same speeds, turns out I just need new tires since when I put my stock full size spare after it went flat, there was no more viebration. Some rims require hub centric rings, the g35 rims probably don't but you never know.
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Mar 29, 2007 | 05:24 PM
  #26  
Flame me if this has already been said but Im too lazy to read all of the posts.

Check your tire pressures - that was my problem... couldnt get over 70
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Mar 29, 2007 | 07:15 PM
  #27  
mike, come see me if you decide to get those parts. also i found some energy suspension bushings that could help as well.
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Mar 30, 2007 | 05:27 AM
  #28  
Quote: mike, come see me if you decide to get those parts. also i found some energy suspension bushings that could help as well.
I think I might get the bushings and not the LCA's. I drove it to Bowling Green, KY yesterday and it didn't vibrate at all, but I do want to get the bushings because they will probably go out eventually.
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Mar 30, 2007 | 06:36 AM
  #29  
It depends.....I had my LCAs changed because there are 3 different bushings on 'em, and one of those is a ***** to replace, so might as well get new LCA (which is what a good majority of orgers seem to end up doing).

I'm REALLY enjoying the newfound stability. I used to have terrible "wheel hop" . Now, it's almost non existant (unless you totally floor it!)
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Mar 30, 2007 | 07:00 AM
  #30  
Quote: wel, let's seeeeee. The LCAs i got from ebay for $160 (ball joints & bushings included) the're the "good ones" not the ones that some people on this board bought a while back. It was like another $30 for the TRW swaybar endlinks, and $15 for the energy suspension swaybar bushings.

As for the labor, i think i got a pretty good deal @ $250 (I also had the thermostat changed)

I also got new Bridgestone Potenza RE960AS Pole Position tires (those cost more than labor for the suspesion work ) But talk about handling/cornering! I can't wait to have my baby alligned and hit the highway!

linkage:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...9130851&rd=1,1

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...0963276&rd=1,1

OR get the full package (minus the swaybar bushings)


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Ball-...5250QQtcZphoto

What do people think about the quality of these parts? That package seems like a good deal, but too good to be true?
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Mar 30, 2007 | 05:49 PM
  #31  
well, there doesn't seem to be any negtive comments about 'em. There's only one other seller that sells LCA lke that, and it seems that they're the one's people have been talking about (bad, weak stuff).
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Mar 30, 2007 | 08:30 PM
  #32  
yea i got the same problem
the car starts vibrating at speeds above 65 and the steering wheel starts to shake
i showed it to a family friend who is also a mechanic
he told me that I should get the control arms checked and if necessary, replaced. I will have it checked and then see what happens.
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Mar 31, 2007 | 08:48 AM
  #33  
I have this problem as well. I temporarily live in Europe and regularly drive on the German Autobahns where there is no speed limit and this annoys me beyond belief. I have had my tires changed twice, Michelin and Continental, the two top European brands, the car has been aligned, I have had the alloys replaced for 'perfect' ones and still at speeds between 60 and 85 miles the steering wheel vibrates. I have pushed on beyond that and then it steadily reduces, but never goes away. It gets worse in slight bends in the highway where you do not necessarily reduce speed. The best solution I have found is having the tires balanced on the car, with High Speed balancing.

I must say that I am reluctant to spend more money on new control arms and sway-bar end links, but given the money and effort I have spent so far, maybe I should. I would however like to ask if anyone has found a different solution or other cause?
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Mar 31, 2007 | 10:50 AM
  #34  
Yeah I'm gonna go ahead and get the control arms and the bushings. I was thinking about getting rid of it, but it's paid for and I don't want another note. Also, I freaking love the car.
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Mar 31, 2007 | 11:59 AM
  #35  
You won't regret it Mikey, it's worth it. I love my max too. Which is why i don't reget spending money to make sure it's perfect. I'm getting an allignment done today.we'll see if there are any further inprovements
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Mar 31, 2007 | 12:01 PM
  #36  
nismomaxgtr18 & SThor it seems that you guys need to do the same.
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Apr 1, 2007 | 05:45 AM
  #37  
I had the same problem recently and I had a bad tyrod. I would have those checked out, as they can be very dangerous if the break while driving.
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Apr 1, 2007 | 03:31 PM
  #38  
well, if they decide to do the above(by thenselves or otherwise) It's an easy things to check.
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Apr 1, 2007 | 04:00 PM
  #39  
1. check air pressure 2. alignment? 3.bad tire(s)
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Apr 2, 2007 | 03:30 AM
  #40  
I got vibration when I hit 70. The shop did a balance and rotate for me, and the vibration is gone when I hit above 70, even up to 95. But when driving 25-30, I got another problem. I oculd hear this periodical "hum" noise and vibration on the front tires through the body and steering wheel.

I went back to the tire shop and told them the problem they didn't know about after they balanced and rotated my tires.

The passenger side, originally on the left-rear, has so-called "cuppy", uneven wear on the edge of the tire. According to them, that's what causes it. It wasn't so easy to notice since that was on the rear. It's been 700 miles, and nothing got better. Maybe it'd take me a bit longer.
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