UDP installed......now problems!
03-20-2007, 08:43 AM
#1
UDP installed......now problems!
I just installed a UR ultra s Crank pulley. and the install went very easy. only 2 hrs time. after i get the car running tighten the belts i let it idle for a few min. I start driving and immediatly the car starts to bog and shudder. kinda like a big vacum leak.
i can drive at almost any speed and if i hold the accel. the car stutters like clockwork in time. : example. 5th gear 60 mph 2500 rpm if i hold it. it sounds like this:
smooth for 3 sec-stutter-smooth for 3 sec- stutter. wash,rinse,repeat.
im starting to think that i may have messed up my timing but i dont know. Has anyone had any problems after installing a UDP?
i can drive at almost any speed and if i hold the accel. the car stutters like clockwork in time. : example. 5th gear 60 mph 2500 rpm if i hold it. it sounds like this:
smooth for 3 sec-stutter-smooth for 3 sec- stutter. wash,rinse,repeat.
im starting to think that i may have messed up my timing but i dont know. Has anyone had any problems after installing a UDP?
03-20-2007, 09:26 AM
#2
Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 26
very odd
I don't think that your timing could have been affected by a UDP install. The only thing I can think of is that some cheaper pulleys are balanced inproperly and can cause SEVERE vibration. Good luck and keep us updated...very interesting, but get it fixed. If it is vibration, it can cause premature main bearing failure.
I don't think that your timing could have been affected by a UDP install. The only thing I can think of is that some cheaper pulleys are balanced inproperly and can cause SEVERE vibration. Good luck and keep us updated...very interesting, but get it fixed. If it is vibration, it can cause premature main bearing failure.
03-20-2007, 05:23 PM
#5
Possibly that crank shaft messed up. You're sure that things didn't move around on you when trying to install it? Might want to try taking it apart and looking at it again. Something might have gone wrong during install.
03-20-2007, 07:17 PM
#8
Originally Posted by Cdg2125
Possibly that crank shaft messed up. You're sure that things didn't move around on you when trying to install it? Might want to try taking it apart and looking at it again. Something might have gone wrong during install.
03-21-2007, 03:34 PM
#9
yea try bending the timing ring straight before you go throught the hassle of removing the pulley. I think that once the engine is running, the ECU just takes the crank position input from the (POS) sensor by the tranny, not the (REF) at the crank. But just in case try bending it straight again. If that doesnt work then remove the pulley and make sure it didnt go in crooked or something. Also, did you make sure it was tightened properly and not slightly loose?
GL
GL
03-21-2007, 08:05 PM
#10
Originally Posted by 95BLKMAX
yea try bending the timing ring straight before you go throught the hassle of removing the pulley. I think that once the engine is running, the ECU just takes the crank position input from the (POS) sensor by the tranny, not the (REF) at the crank. But just in case try bending it straight again. If that doesnt work then remove the pulley and make sure it didnt go in crooked or something. Also, did you make sure it was tightened properly and not slightly loose?
GL
GL
i replaced it and taped it several times with a mag lite and a rubber hammer. so it was snug.
then i ran the car and the same thing. to day i bought a new CPS (REF) and ill install it later tonight or in the morning. ill also check the CPS (POS) and make sure its clean.
i dont think tourqe is a problem. im 6'1 280lbs. i got that covered.
I was worried that i may need a spacer for the pulley but i was told that i didnt. so i'll update again in the morning.
Thanks for all of the input so far.
03-21-2007, 09:48 PM
#11
okay so i just changed the REF and POS sensors and went for a drive. BUT!!!!
I noticed something this time. when i got on the freeway as i accellerated i got some studder some light some a little heavy. but when i gassed it it was violent shudder for a few seconds. but she was moving fats which is good.
when i got home i parked it and just let it idle for 2 min. the car never missed a beat. so i held the idle at 2500 for about 10 sec. no burp. then i let off and went up to 3000 held it for about 10-20 sec. no burp. so i let off and listend again. i reved it up to 35hundred and heard gurgling/burping sounds on the way down. i did it 3 or 4 times and kep getting the same thing. so my conclusion is exhaust leak. now i have to find it and get rid of it.
any thoughts?
I noticed something this time. when i got on the freeway as i accellerated i got some studder some light some a little heavy. but when i gassed it it was violent shudder for a few seconds. but she was moving fats which is good.
when i got home i parked it and just let it idle for 2 min. the car never missed a beat. so i held the idle at 2500 for about 10 sec. no burp. then i let off and went up to 3000 held it for about 10-20 sec. no burp. so i let off and listend again. i reved it up to 35hundred and heard gurgling/burping sounds on the way down. i did it 3 or 4 times and kep getting the same thing. so my conclusion is exhaust leak. now i have to find it and get rid of it.
any thoughts?
03-22-2007, 07:40 PM
#16
how did you keep the crankshaft from moving while tightening the bolt? Because i have the same issue and it appears the code points to the flywheel/signal teeth. So im going back to stock sine the gain is nothing on the pulley.
03-22-2007, 08:20 PM
#18
haha well if you read the thread you'd realize he couldn't open it up like he wanted. UDP are a good upgrade. You won't see a big jump in power or anything but it will help with other mods. I plan to add one over the summer. Hoping to pull a little more power out of the 00vi.
for the tightening, isn't there a recommended chain tool to hold the crank?
for the tightening, isn't there a recommended chain tool to hold the crank?
03-22-2007, 08:35 PM
#19
to tighten. have an assistant put the car in 5th/ park(?) if your an auto. and hold the brake HARD! then just tourqe it down. ive got the install down to 45 min now. But i have noticed a big jump in acceleration. even with my mystery farts!! i do think that my y pipe gaskets may have gone to crap. But i now have some low end back and i am amazed buy how well she pulls now. so before i waste half a can of seafoam ill replace the y pipe gaskets drive it, then smoke it.
03-22-2007, 08:44 PM
#20
awesome. My dad got a UDP in his 5.5 gen he noticed a difference but he also got the intake, ypipe and catback installed at the same time so we could never really tell what difference it made on its own. Im definately looking into one now.
I know a lot of people who dont have them say that they make a very small difference, probably not even noticeable, but the people who have them all seem to say good things.
I know a lot of people who dont have them say that they make a very small difference, probably not even noticeable, but the people who have them all seem to say good things.
03-22-2007, 08:48 PM
#22
oh ya, i noticed when i got my cai, i felt like i lost a lot of low end. it does pull a lot harder up top though. in my 5.5 gen the loss of low end probably helped my launches being auto its kinda hard to modulate the throttle without it shifting into 2nd.
03-22-2007, 08:55 PM
#24
Do you have a real CAI? Because you lose power up top with a CAI not down low. You must have a HAI. I just found someone selling their UDP for $70 so I might jump on that for even more power with the 00vi. Still need that V-AFCII tho. I hate being broke lol.
03-22-2007, 08:58 PM
#25
Originally Posted by Cdg2125
Do you have a real CAI? Because you lose power up top with a CAI not down low. You must have a HAI. I just found someone selling their UDP for $70 so I might jump on that for even more power with the 00vi. Still need that V-AFCII tho. I hate being broke lol.
03-22-2007, 09:05 PM
#26
Originally Posted by Cdg2125
Do you have a real CAI? Because you lose power up top with a CAI not down low. You must have a HAI. I just found someone selling their UDP for $70 so I might jump on that for even more power with the 00vi. Still need that V-AFCII tho. I hate being broke lol.
I had an injen, and i felt like i gained a lot up top, but lost a lot in the low. Makes sense because it is basically a WAI/HAI. After i went to a PRCAI and i still got about the same results. I felt no difference in performance to be honest with you, and for the lack of not having a 3" hole in my fender i kinda wish i had of stayed with the injen. It would have made selling the car a lot easier. It forced me to sell the car with the intake on lol.
But i dont want to ruin the OP's thread by going OT. So back on topic.
Do you know the weight of the unorthadox UDP you used?
03-22-2007, 09:06 PM
#27
No I thought he said he lost power with his CAI alone. And your MEVI is the reason for lose of low end, not so much the CAI.
:edit: Well as much as you would believe the butt dyno, there is a big difference between the Injen and PR. You are not better off with the Injen thats for sure.
:edit: Well as much as you would believe the butt dyno, there is a big difference between the Injen and PR. You are not better off with the Injen thats for sure.
03-23-2007, 06:28 AM
#28
Originally Posted by 96blkonblkse
I had an injen, and i felt like i gained a lot up top, but lost a lot in the low. Makes sense because it is basically a WAI/HAI. After i went to a PRCAI and i still got about the same results. I felt no difference in performance to be honest with you, and for the lack of not having a 3" hole in my fender i kinda wish i had of stayed with the injen. It would have made selling the car a lot easier. It forced me to sell the car with the intake on lol.
But i dont want to ruin the OP's thread by going OT. So back on topic.
Do you know the weight of the unorthadox UDP you used?
But i dont want to ruin the OP's thread by going OT. So back on topic.
Do you know the weight of the unorthadox UDP you used?
03-23-2007, 06:32 AM
#29
Originally Posted by Cdg2125
No I thought he said he lost power with his CAI alone. And your MEVI is the reason for lose of low end, not so much the CAI.
:edit: Well as much as you would believe the butt dyno, there is a big difference between the Injen and PR. You are not better off with the Injen thats for sure.
:edit: Well as much as you would believe the butt dyno, there is a big difference between the Injen and PR. You are not better off with the Injen thats for sure.
03-23-2007, 07:38 AM
#30
The UDP is not a good "bang for the buck" mod like the y-pipe. But when you plan on doing everything, it's worth doing because it all adds up.
The difference in weight between my Ultra SC pullley (stock diameter) and OEM pulley is exactly 3.25 pounds.
The difference in weight between my Ultra SC pullley (stock diameter) and OEM pulley is exactly 3.25 pounds.
03-23-2007, 08:19 AM
#31
Originally Posted by The Wizard
The UDP is not a good "bang for the buck" mod like the y-pipe. But when you plan on doing everything, it's worth doing because it all adds up.
The difference in weight between my Ultra SC pullley (stock diameter) and OEM pulley is exactly 3.25 pounds.
The difference in weight between my Ultra SC pullley (stock diameter) and OEM pulley is exactly 3.25 pounds.
03-24-2007, 08:49 AM
#37
okay no more post about CAI if you two have a dissagreement do it by PM not here.
UPDATE!! i put the stock pulley back on and everything is back to normal. so two questons come to mind.
1st. Is it possible that UR mar have sent me a pulley which is out of alignment? Meaning thet the timing ring is not where it should be, as if its off by a millimeter or 2 which is causing the stuttering?
2nd. If i have an exhaust leak (condirmed by seafoam) is it possible that the stock pulley causes then engine to run perfect enough that whatever gaskets i have bad the airflow disruption wont be as severe. but with less weight on the crank it allows the flow to become more prevelant and pronounced so that it finds its way through any opening faster which may contribute to my bogging?
any help would be appreciated.
UPDATE!! i put the stock pulley back on and everything is back to normal. so two questons come to mind.
1st. Is it possible that UR mar have sent me a pulley which is out of alignment? Meaning thet the timing ring is not where it should be, as if its off by a millimeter or 2 which is causing the stuttering?
2nd. If i have an exhaust leak (condirmed by seafoam) is it possible that the stock pulley causes then engine to run perfect enough that whatever gaskets i have bad the airflow disruption wont be as severe. but with less weight on the crank it allows the flow to become more prevelant and pronounced so that it finds its way through any opening faster which may contribute to my bogging?
any help would be appreciated.
03-24-2007, 08:50 AM
#38
Originally Posted by Cdg2125
I forgot to ask. What size and brand belts are used with the UDP? Do they come with the pulley?
03-24-2007, 09:00 AM
#39
I'm done with the intake posts anyways. Just as a final note:
"There is always a constant debate about which one is better. And while there never really will be an answer, it seems that the popcharger helps most in the high end RPM range but can acually cause a little lag in the lower RPMs which is more noticable on automatic cars. The CAI is best in the lower RPM range but not as good in the higher RPM range, most people with an automatic tend to get the CAI because they dont want the low end lag of the popcharger. And the hyrbids tend to give you nice midrange power, which makes them popular since most driving takes place in the midrange. HP Gains between all the intakes are about the same however at 5-7 HP."
Anways, it's possible that it got messed up in production or shipping. Try talking to them and see if they would send you another on. Belts were tightened correctly and all that? Seems like it will be the actual UDP since the stock is fine. Even an exhaust leak shouldn't cause what you're having. I would assume its the pulley.
"There is always a constant debate about which one is better. And while there never really will be an answer, it seems that the popcharger helps most in the high end RPM range but can acually cause a little lag in the lower RPMs which is more noticable on automatic cars. The CAI is best in the lower RPM range but not as good in the higher RPM range, most people with an automatic tend to get the CAI because they dont want the low end lag of the popcharger. And the hyrbids tend to give you nice midrange power, which makes them popular since most driving takes place in the midrange. HP Gains between all the intakes are about the same however at 5-7 HP."
Anways, it's possible that it got messed up in production or shipping. Try talking to them and see if they would send you another on. Belts were tightened correctly and all that? Seems like it will be the actual UDP since the stock is fine. Even an exhaust leak shouldn't cause what you're having. I would assume its the pulley.
03-24-2007, 09:05 AM
#40
Originally Posted by Cdg2125
I'm done with the intake posts anyways. Just as a final note:
"There is always a constant debate about which one is better. And while there never really will be an answer, it seems that the popcharger helps most in the high end RPM range but can acually cause a little lag in the lower RPMs which is more noticable on automatic cars. The CAI is best in the lower RPM range but not as good in the higher RPM range, most people with an automatic tend to get the CAI because they dont want the low end lag of the popcharger. And the hyrbids tend to give you nice midrange power, which makes them popular since most driving takes place in the midrange. HP Gains between all the intakes are about the same however at 5-7 HP."
Anways, it's possible that it got messed up in production or shipping. Try talking to them and see if they would send you another on. Belts were tightened correctly and all that? Seems like it will be the actual UDP since the stock is fine. Even an exhaust leak shouldn't cause what you're having. I would assume its the pulley.
"There is always a constant debate about which one is better. And while there never really will be an answer, it seems that the popcharger helps most in the high end RPM range but can acually cause a little lag in the lower RPMs which is more noticable on automatic cars. The CAI is best in the lower RPM range but not as good in the higher RPM range, most people with an automatic tend to get the CAI because they dont want the low end lag of the popcharger. And the hyrbids tend to give you nice midrange power, which makes them popular since most driving takes place in the midrange. HP Gains between all the intakes are about the same however at 5-7 HP."
Anways, it's possible that it got messed up in production or shipping. Try talking to them and see if they would send you another on. Belts were tightened correctly and all that? Seems like it will be the actual UDP since the stock is fine. Even an exhaust leak shouldn't cause what you're having. I would assume its the pulley.