allright, anyone know what the deal is with the code 400??? my mechanic pulled that today when he did codes and a knock sensor. he's sayin that it could take 2 hours or more to find the problem. or less depending on what it is. he also raped me for 278.00 for a left reat caliper with pads, but, he did a tire rotation and the codes too. anyone got any ideas as to what i should do first??? any help here guys, i'm broke>> thanks

 

I sure hope that 278 bucks included parts, if not then you got a very bad deal, even with parts that is very expensive to do one caliper.

Read up about the code in the stickies.

If you are broke, I suggest getting a Haynes manual and working on the car yourself.

 

so how much do you think 1 caliper should be?? i thought it was gonna be around 225.00 tops. christ, e-bay had a pair of them for 155.00 shipped. shoulda waited and just bought the pair. i don't know where to look in stickies for this code, someone help me out??? thanks in advance

 

I got two calipers (rear calipers which are more expensive than the front ones) for $135 from Autozone, if that gives you any idea.

Here is info on the code:

0302
Diagnostic Trouble code 0302 points to a problem with the Exhaust Gas Recirculation system. The malfunction is detected by the Engine Control Module when no EGR flow is detected under conditions which call for EGR. Possible causes include:
- The electrical harness or connectors (valve circuit open or shorted)
- The EGR valve is stuck closed
- Weak or dead battery
- The EGR passage is clogged
- Faulty EGR temperature sensor circuit
- A leak somewhere in the exhaust system

The EGR Volume Control Valve may be tested with an ohmmeter. Disconnect the electrical connector. Looking at the connector half which is attached to the EGRVCV with the latch at the 12 o'clock position you will see two rows of three terminals. The top row is numbered 1-3, right to left. The bottom row is numbered 4-6, right to left. Measure the resistance between these terminal pairs:
2 1
2 3
5 4
5 6
... all resistance values should be 20.9-23.1 ohms at 68 degrees F.

Reconnect the EGRVCV connector halves. Turn the ignition switch ON OFF repeatedly. Verify that the EGRVCV shaft moves smoothly forward backward according to the ignition switch position.

The Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor may be tested with an ohmmeter. The specifications are ...
- at 32 degrees F, 0.68-1.11 Megohms
- at 122 degrees F, 0.09-0.12 Megohms
- at 212 degrees F, 0.017-0.024 Megohms

This is a hard code to diagnose, I actually have it right now too.

I am going to start by cleaning the EGR tubes out, you might want to do the same.

 

how do i clean these out. all that stuff you threw out might as well be in german, i don't know how to do it. is there a starting point at which you can diagnose without ripping your hair outta your head. i do have the original cat, and i'm pretty sure the valve on the evap cannister is on its way out too. as for the exhaust, there's a leak in the front somewhere, up in the y-pipe. how long can i let go before it becomes a bigger problem??? i'm throughly exhausted with this car, drivin me crazy.

 

i say start by looking at the egr for any hoses or electrical connectors that are unplugged...sound fishy to me that there just happened to be and egr code right as your mechanic got the car. if theres not any, look for clogged hoses. if thats not it, take the solenoid off and test that (if u dont know how, ask and ill tell). next step would be test for a sticking valve (once again, ask if u dont know how). sorry im feeling lazy and im about to crash...its been a long day for me.

 

no no, engine light was on. wow. it would help if you had any pics to go along with the suggestions your giving me. i'm really not sure what any of that stuff is, i mean i don't have a working knowledge of this car except the basics. i want to learn though, sick of paying my friggin mechanic for everything that breaks. hes good, just expensive. when you get a chance maybe take some pics of what your telling me to do and post if possible. thanks again man><><><>

 

This should help:

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....58751&t=496494

Or search these forums for 0302 or EGR and find lots more info.

 

yeah it did help, allthough i probably wont try messin with this cause the pics are a little too hard to see whats goin on. i think i'll try some kind of induction service and or cleaner first, see how that goes. simple stuff first, pain in the *** stuff last. thanks><>>

 

i got code P0400 for EGR. i changed the valve without doing any diagnostic but seems like that was a wrong move for me. if its P0400 is most likely a clog somewhere. you need to clean them.

 

i talked to the dealer today, they said its not definite that the valve is the only problem, but from what they've seen it almost always what kicks on the engine light. more than likely it could be a temparature sensor that's screwed in right next to the egr valve and it picks up whether its cold or hot and there's a tip on that that burns out or gets clogged and that also will kick on the c/e light. there's 2 or more wires that extend from that to either the fuse box or some plug on the block. seems so simple yet not..........

 

Code P0400/0302 is most likely caused by a clogged egr tube.

 

how much should a replacement egr valve cost?? i was told its not worth it to try and clean, too much trouble and its hardened in the valve like cement. thanks in advance......

 

I would check the tubes before replacing a valve that you don't know for sure is bad.

 

well, i'm getting a new garage that another orger told me to try to check this for me and find out what it is exactly. like i stated in a previous post, the dealer told me that 9 times out of ten that was what was causing the problem, i know, they'll say anything to ya sometimes but this guy has seen 200 hundred or more of my make and year and said that more than likely thats what is usaully is. damn but i wish i had this baby when she was new.......

 

well, i give up. i'm going to the dealer, 2 seperate garages and no return phone calls. *******s........

 

I have a question. did he get p0400 before or after doing the knock sensor? if after, he probable unplugged (or broke) the EGR Solenoid valve plug (green plug at the opening of the underside of the plenum). if unplugged, plug it in and reset should be fine. If not unplugged, look for cracks or excess wiggle. If you wree closer I would check it out for you.

 

2 1/2 hour drive? I am sure there are people closer.

 

can you reach that plug your talkin about from the top or do i need a lift? as far as what code he got first, i don't know. yeah, i just thought you might travel to philly once in awhile. i really don't know anybody out here other than my guy at mienieke, or the dealer. and i just don't have the tools to work on this baby either.

 

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=494199

it is right on top. right at the opening that gives you access to your knock sensor.

 

sweet, thanks man. alot of mis-information around here sometimes. if somebody "shows me " the area and how to go about fixin it'll get fixed alot sooner. my mechanic said i have a late model 95, so i have obd2. thats how he pulled these codes. now i have a good idea on what to look for, would the valve for the evap set the c/e light on as well? it was whinin when it first got cold last year, and it made the same noise this year as well.

 

Thanks for the plug on this EGR sensor! I replaced my egr valve for the dreaded P0400 code at 120k miles. At 140k miles the code came back. I checked my egr valve with a ohmmeter and it checked out good. 20 ohms per coil winding. Then i checked the EGR temp sensor and it was 213 k ohms COLD. Thats what it should be when hot. SO my egr valve was staying open all the time.
I got a used one which tested about 1.3 meg ohms at room temp and then cooled it down with some ice. The resistance when up to around 3.3 meg ohm. I installed it in my car and no more cel!! The used one cost me $7.90.

 

I am also trying to get rid of p0400 code. Can you send me some picture of EGR temp sensor and where its located etc?

 

The first pic in the link shows the area where the sensor is located. It's connected on the IAC valve. The second pic has the connector disconnected for reference. Just follow it back to where it's connected on the intake manifold.
For testing the sensor just disconnect this connector and measure with a meter.
It's easier to just remove the IAC valve to get a 14mm wrench on the sensor. Use some antiseize on the sensor when you install it.


http://picasaweb.google.com/jay.plum...15412038312082

 

This thread should help also:

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=350528

 

did you fix the knock sensor?

 

nope, been on since i bought the car. aint gonna fix it either cause even the dealer said its a ghost code that really does nothing.

 

just order one off ebay it's like 60 bucks shipped. Well I thought the same thing but my car wouldn't pass emission because the knock sensor code was on there. So i finally ordered one off ebay and fixed it myself.

I was just relieved that it worked and got that ugly C.E.L off.

 

what cel??? the knock sensor does'nt trigger your c/e light, and it really does'nt do $hit to enhance performance. plus, i got body work, a new setup for the stereo and a new suspension to do first so that will be 1 of the last things i do if at all.

 

knock sensor is p0325.

 

Dude, NO it does not pull a CEL.

 

um, buddy well it did on mine. and sorry the code is 0325

 

I work at Nissan and the way to fix it right is to clean out the egr port tube.... sound easy... it is if you have the right tools. With experiance it only takes about 30-40 min. the egr port is located to the lower right corner of the throttle body on the fire wall side. the reason for the light is that there is build up on the egr temp sensor and not reading temp correctly. very simple fix and no parts are needed, only carb cleaner and wire pipe cleaners. you will need 12mm short socket, 12mm deep socket, rachet, 12mm wrench, and die grinder( tip of stud on bottom of port tube must be shaved slightly, clearance resonses, nut will not come off) 10mm socket and a 3inch extension. Sounds difficult but very easy........ Good luck!!! Hope this helped

 

ahh yeah, i had that fixed 5 months ago and you can't just clean it with some wire brushes. the carbon buildup is rock solid and requires that you replace the tube. the dealer would've fixed it with some cleaner and charged me as much as i paid a private garage to replace the egr tube. and they cleaned the intake out and it took them 5 hours to do because you have to take the whole side of the engine apart. pain in the *** job.

 

Everytime I see an EGR thread, I kick myself b/c I can never remember the link to the thread I started on this subject. I cleaned my EGR tube, thanks to advice from people on here, and I did it with NO SPECIAL TOOLS. Everything I needed was in my toolbox, and no, I don't have Snap-On or anything like that.
Come on guys. You have to decide. Others on here have fixed it by themselves. That's the whole idea of this board. For just about anything you can think of, SOMEONE on here has already been thru it.
LEARN something about working on your car. Or if you carry it to a shop, at least PRINT out the pages that solve the issue and SHOW it to them.
It took me a day, but I worked slowly to make sure I didn't mess anything up.
See if you can access the pictures here:
http://new.photos.yahoo.com/sounbwoy...60762373221081
Even tho someone told me about Yahoo closing the Photo Site, I never saw the notice until now. I'll find a place to put them in a bit...

 

Everytime I see these photo's I envy you!!! My car is sitting in driveway with IAC out since 4th july. I am not able to access the lower EGR tube bolts, one last time tell me do I need to saw off any part from lower side to get egr tube out?

 

Some have done some cutting of some sort. I didn't. I was able to get everything off and back on with sockets and wrenches.

 

I cut the top of one of the bolt studs off. Made everything easy as pie after that.

 

It is possable to clean tube. with a little time and like i said carb cleaner, tube will be clean. Sorry also forgot to add that you need to pic to break the big parts loose. But like I said no parts are needed, maybe some gaskets but no tubes. $10 tops. I have done about 20 of these and never have i had to replace the tube, even in the worst conditions. And I've seen them all!!!

 

This should help http://forums.maxima.org/showpost.ph...4&postcount=46 . You don't have to cut anything and you don't need a lift. Just get a big adjustable wrench and 12 mm deep socket and follow the instructions on that thread. Hope this helps