Thanks for the info. I have no idea if its rolling code or not. Its a 2003 craftsman opener if that means anything. Ill try holding the buttons tonight to see if I can get it to program.

Thanks again!

 

Hey I have a 97 automatic. The RPM meter will move up and down and most of the time stays all the way to the right past 8000. Help please?

 

By the way its just the gauge, the engine is running fine and I'm sure there is nothing wrong with transmission.

 

I pulled my injen intake off and I found this hose just dangling loosely and I can not seem to find where it connects to. It has a 1/4 inner diameter and a 1/2 outer diameter. I tried finding the part at autozone.com based on appearance but no dice, could someone please identify this for me and may snap a picture of where the other end connects. This is in between the battery and the ECTS. Thanks in advance.

 

It's the trans vent hose. One side slides on to a small section of pipe coming from the trans, the other side is open to the atmosphere.

 

ok, so i decided to flush the coolant system today. However I dont know what type of coolant to use. I was thinking 50/50 prestone? how much should i buy?

 

I used the green coolant when I did mine 50/50 mix worked good for me. You can get a 4L jug of pure antifreeze and mix it yourself and you'll have enough for 8L. Make sure you use distilled water if you're going to mix it yourself. NO tap water.

M.

 

Sorry for the double post but I have a question as well. I'm trying to locate the reverse switch so I can test it with a multimeter. (My back up lights dont work and when I checked the lights at the rear I get no power to them with the car in reverse. Can someone post a photo of the switch? I see one on the top/rear of the transmission that could be the switch but the wire colors are different from the wiring diagram in mitchell. Any help would be appreciated as to what that is. Thanks

M.

 

I was wondering if anyone could help me or tell me where to look for the answer? I have a 95 Maxima GLE manual, bought it about a month ago. I replaced the radiator yesterday and both of the tranny coolant lines were cut at the rad., I have tried googling it but can not figure out where they go?? So I am asking where they connect to after they come off the rad.? I appreciate any help I can get, my husband has washed his hands and decided he isn't going to help me at all (he's a Ford guy). Thanks in advance!

 

Two questions in mind, try to search but's its kinda dificult searching one by one posts.

1 How much power can a stock A/T can handle in a 2003 Maxima
2 Does the stock suspension on a 03 Maxima feels like mmm bumpy? like, if it has much travel on the rear end, almos the feeling that it's gona max out the struts...


Sorry for the bad english LOL

 

I think they sold you an A/T Radiator, since this have two lines for cooling the A/T fluids... Correct me if im wrong please

 

I wondered the same thing so I went back to the auto parts store and double checked and the one I got is the only one coming up in their system. Also the rad. I took off had the two lines so I am confused lol. Yesterday I did my MAF, Knock Sensor, PCV, new thermostat and rad. and I have a head cold that is kickin my butt, so I figured I was just tired and irritated so that why I couldn't figure out where they go.

 

I just noticed there's a nice sized hole in the flex-section of my y-pipe. I use my Maxima strictly as a daily driver and don't intend to add any aftermarket parts to it. So I'd like to keep it quiet and retain the pre-cats on the y-pipe and not just get an OBX one for instance.
A shop quoted me $150 to weld in a new flex-section, which I thought was too much. Another option is something I found on ebay that is an easy solution to swap out the flex-section here:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Nissa...Q5fAccessories

Would this be a good fix to my problem? Has anybody used this before?
Thanks

 

This is the 4th gen section. You're looking for this thread:
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...on-thread.html

First, all GLEs left the factory as automatics. If yours is a 5MT, it's been swapped over, or it's not really a GLE.

If it's a 5MT swapped GLE, then that explains why the trans cooler lines are just cut off, because you don't need them. Only the autos require a trans cooler, with the manual you don't (and can't, as you have no way to cycle the gear oil from the trans through the rad. The auto has an oil pump for this and other purposes).

Don't worry about the trans cooler lines. Chances are any aftermarket rad you buy will have the hookups, as it's far easier and cheaper to make just one rad that will work for both 4AT and 5MT.

 

Ahhhhh I see, makes sense. Thank you so much for your help!

 

Damn. my bad... i didn't realiza until i try to find my post :S

 

I personally haven't used that before but I would tell you to shop around. I was able to get mine done for $80 at a small muffler shop. They just cut it out and welded the new one into the pipe.

 

What would cause a long crank time when starting? The car always starts and runs fine but will occassionally take longer than normal to start.

 

/\ All in favor of banning, say "aye"

"aye"




Contribute something to the forum n00blet! Please don't post *****.

 

Aye

 

My sister has a 99 Maxima that was having problems starting. Her car was dragging and cranking slow for a short while. Yesterday she attempted to crank the car and the car would not start and when she tried to jump it off nothing happened. I noticed that all of her interior lights were working along with power windows and a/c. I checked her battery cables and they were clean. When I turned the key nothing happened, not even a single click. I took the battery out and had it tested at autozone and they said it was good. I took the starter off and took it to autozone and they said the solenoid was bad. I purchased a solenoid and replaced the old one on the starter and still no crank. I could tell the starter was getting power because the solenoid was EXTREMELY hot. I took the starter to autozone with the new solenoid and they were able to get the starter to turn while testing but they said it was dragging and looks like the starter motor is shot.

I purchased a new starter and when I replaced it I heard the starter attempt to engage and then nothing. All the power went off and I had to take the negative terminal off and put it back on for it to reset. I then attempted to start it again and same thing. I then hooked up jumper cables and it cranked right up. I let it run for a while and then cut it off and it started back on its own. I waited another hour and it cranked up again on its own.

One thing I'm wondering is why did all of the power go off after I attempted to crank the vehicle and it wouldn't start. I had this happen before with my honda accord and it was due to corroded battery cables. After replacing them it never happened again but I would turn the ignition and all the power would go off. I'd have to remove the negative terminal and replace it to reset it to try and crank it again. Does it sound like the problem should be resolved now? I'm hoping it was just the starter and everything is good to go.

 

Whats the deal? I am trying to ask simple questions that I have on my car that I just purchased and since I cant post a new thread what am I supposed to do? I can certainly contribute alot as I am a ase master certified tech. All I simply am asking if there are common issues that cause a long crank time that I can look for. IE crank sensor, fuel pressure regulator, fuel pump...ect

 

He was not replying to you.

 

Whoops sorry dude...

So back to my orginal question. Any ideas of what will cause an intermit long exteneded crank time?

 

Our 2001 Nissan Maxima SE Has A Tail Light Problem. The Brake Light On The Driver's Side Does Not Light Up, Even After Replacing The Bulb. The Brake Light On The Passenger Side And Above The Trunk Works Fine. The Tail Light Bulb Does Turn On When The Headlights Are On (the Filament In The Tail Light That Is Supposed To Light When The Headlights Turn On - The Break Light Filament Still Does Not Turn On When The Headlights Are On And You Push On The Brake Pedal). Any Ideas? Should I Check A Fuse Or Wiring Or Could This Mean There Is Some Problem With The Left Rear Wheel Brake And The Car Is Showing The Problem By Not Activating The Left Rear Brake Light? I Appreciate Any Feedback And Advice You Can Offer.

 

First, how can you stand using the shift key for every single word you type? That would drive me insane.

No, the brake lights and the operation of each individual caliper are not related.

Have you checked the contacts in the connector for damage, corrosion, possibly fitting loose in the socket?

Failing that, there's likely wiring damage (an open circuit) between the subharness connector (a white 10 pin connector on the left side of the trunk) and the LR tail light, specifically on the R/G wire that comes from pin 3 of said connector and goes to pin 2 on the white 6 pin connector at the tail light itself. Also check the subharness within the tail light assembly itself.

 

Ok so I've had my 98 for a year and it drives great, but when it shifts from 1st to 2nd it jerks a little, only once though, its not like my car is shaking, but its never made any noise or anything like that. Its an automatic by the way. Ive been wondering what it was so could it just be a simple tuning adjustment that would fix it or would I be better off buying gears since I wanna get max performance outta it neways?

 

After installing a new throttle position sensor, is there any kind of calibration that has to be done?

 

Can I get an answer???

After installing a new throttle position sensor, is there any kind of calibration that has to be done?

 

Yes, there is adjustments that must be made with a feeler gauge. Search for "TPS Adjustment" and you will find what you seek.

 

That hard shifting from 1st to second is part of most Auto's. Tried solving mine which it wasn't shifting as hard when I changed my TPS. Get a multimeter and measure your resistance when closed and when fully opened and post results.

 

Well run it for a few more days and post back if its doing the same thing. Your battery was tested good but was it fully charged?? It should be now since you got it running so if it still takes long to crank, post back how long it takes so that we can further help you.

 

95 max has two front bad fuel injectors. The forum only speaks about the back injectors. I wanted to know if it was hard to change the front fuel injectors. I know there rite there where I can see them but the fix seems so easy that I wanted to make sure that Im not missing something.

 

Having an issue seemingly identical to this post (sorry, that's actually the response to the issue I am having), my tachometer is spazzing out, and I was wondering if this is common, and if so, if it is usually the sending unit, or the tachometer itself. I usually have a FSM for my cars, but I only picked up the Max yesterday, so I haven't got around to getting one yet, and don't want to get poked by a shop if it's an easy fix.

Car is a 97 Maxima GLE

**Edit**

When we bought the car it had the Service Engine (CEL), I pulled the codes per the instructions here, very easy and good instructions by the way, and got three. The codes are;

0608 - Misfire in cylinder 1
0205 - IACV-AAC
0304 - Knock sensor

So for 0608 I am going to start with the basics, plugs, fuel filter, air filter, is there something else I should look into harder than the others? The other two I am guessing will end up as being replaced. Could the IACV be causing part of the issue with the 0608? Are the two later fairly user serviceable? Or should this be taken to the shop? I am pretty mechanically inclined, used to do all my own work on my Hondas from basic maintenance to engine swaps.

**EDIT 2***

While changing the plugs today I noticed this "hose to nowhere", just to the right of the intake box looking from the front of the car ...



I looked around and didn't see anything that looked like it belonged to. On a side note, it's amazing how much smoother the car starts and runs with NGK platinum plugs vs Bosch plugs.

 

So I was checking over things in my engine bay and noticed that my dropping resistor is like really hot. I replaced it about 8k mi. ago because my car would shift kinda hard from first to second. It fixed the 1rst-2nd hard shifts right away.

My question is, does the dropping resistor always get that hot? I never noticed if the old one got that hot, or not. The one I replaced it with is OEM nissan. I also must mention that this sensor is located on the driver side front strut tower. One 10mm bolt holds it in place just behind the air box.

YAY Im on Maxima.org!

 

Hi everyone,
I have a 98 automatic, and having a problem with the steering wheel. When I drive it on a straight, level road and get my hand off the wheel, the wheel turns to the right right away (the car also move to the right)...Last week, when I changed the break pad of the front right wheel, because of not using any jack stand, my car was moved forward and the rotor hit the ground I think this is the cause of my problem. So, how can I fix this? Do I need to have a wheel alignment?
Thank you,

 

That's the infamous tranny breather line.

 

Vey easy to replace. Remove harness, remove two philip screws and pull the fuel injector out with pliers. Be sure to remove fuse for fuel pump and start the car a couple of times to use out remaining fuel in the rail.

 

First off, you should be checking the ignition coil, spark plug, and fuel injector at Cylinder 1. Not sure why you went to fuel filter and air filter. Move the ignition coil to another cylinder and see if the misfire still occurs at cylinder 1. If so, then visually check spark plug. If that passes, then its the fuel injector that's bad. The IACV you would have to replace with a used one from a JY or if you have money, get a new one.

Second, that hose you seen is a breather hose for the auto tranny. It does not attach to anything.

 

You may need to get one yes. Do you have oneven wear on your tires??