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Old 09-24-2010 | 08:20 AM
  #6361  
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Originally Posted by Trini Boom
First off, you should be checking the ignition coil, spark plug, and fuel injector at Cylinder 1. Not sure why you went to fuel filter and air filter. Move the ignition coil to another cylinder and see if the misfire still occurs at cylinder 1. If so, then visually check spark plug. If that passes, then its the fuel injector that's bad. The IACV you would have to replace with a used one from a JY or if you have money, get a new one.

Second, that hose you seen is a breather hose for the auto tranny. It does not attach to anything.
The spark plugs were number one on the list, the fuel and air filter were more just routine maintenance items that happened to fall in a couple of the possibilities of the 0608, intake air leak, incorrect fuel pressure, and lack of fuel. Good thing I did because two of the latches weren't shut on the box, and the filter was a Fram that was deteriorated. I cleared the codes, and they haven't come back yet, hopefully they won't, or at least the 0608 won't.

Interesting about the transmission breather hose, thanks.

***edit***

Well, the CEL came back, BUT the 0608 is gone (w0ot for new plugs!!), it's just the IACV and knock codes. Will the knock sensor, or IACV being bad cause a reduction in performance? Is there a limp mode on Maximas when the knock is out like in Hondas?

Last edited by xj0hnx; 09-24-2010 at 01:33 PM.
Old 09-24-2010 | 01:10 PM
  #6362  
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I hope I'm doing this right?!?!

Hello to everyone first of all! Hope you are having a great Friday! Wahoo! Anyways, I have a question and I'm hoping someone can help me. I just bought my 2nd Max and I am looking for some things to help it out a little! Bless it. I have a 97 Max SE with tan leather seats and the base of both front seats are cracked/torn/in need of help quickly! I want to buy covers to go on just the base part of the seat because the upper half and headrest are fine. So far all I have found are 1 piece covers or custom covers that cost $500.00. I'm just looking for something to cover just the base of the seat until I can either have them re-covered or replaced. Any ideas or know if or where you can buy universal covers just for the base or covers that are 2 separate pieces? I know I'm a newbie just lookin for some help. Thanks, KK

Last edited by Bama1201; 09-24-2010 at 01:16 PM. Reason: Forgot to subscribe so I can keep up with post
Old 09-24-2010 | 01:36 PM
  #6363  
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Originally Posted by Bama1201
Hello to everyone first of all! Hope you are having a great Friday! Wahoo! Anyways, I have a question and I'm hoping someone can help me. I just bought my 2nd Max and I am looking for some things to help it out a little! Bless it. I have a 97 Max SE with tan leather seats and the base of both front seats are cracked/torn/in need of help quickly! I want to buy covers to go on just the base part of the seat because the upper half and headrest are fine. So far all I have found are 1 piece covers or custom covers that cost $500.00. I'm just looking for something to cover just the base of the seat until I can either have them re-covered or replaced. Any ideas or know if or where you can buy universal covers just for the base or covers that are 2 separate pieces? I know I'm a newbie just lookin for some help. Thanks, KK
If you have one near you, try an upholstery shop, there's one here that will reupholster the bottom, or top of the seats for about $100. My father had them do the seats in his old Cherokee and you couldn't even tell they were ever torn.
Old 09-24-2010 | 02:13 PM
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Sweet, thanks! I had already considered that for the back seat head rest. I was just going to repair it myself. Not trying to sound like a penny pincher or anything, but I just need a quick fix until I just have them completely replaced. About to reconsider my position on buying a set of cheap universal covers and making my own "alterations" just for now. It's either that or a towel and duct tape (or packaging tape so it will match)! I'm kidding of course! Thanks friend!
Old 09-25-2010 | 06:38 AM
  #6365  
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I'm having hard start issues when engine is cold again. I thought I had solved the problem, but it's back. I just replaced the MAF and with the new MAF I'm having a hard time starting it in the morning. With the old, failing MAF it started fine though it wouldn't necessarily run.

The car has new injectors, new coils, new O2 sensors, engine coolant temperature sensor, high octane fuel and runs great once it runs. I've also checked the grounds and added additional grounds. It just doesn't want to start is the problem with the new MAF.

I've been over all the threads before. Any other ideas why a new MAF might cause hard start issues?
Old 09-25-2010 | 09:36 AM
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hey guys what up? i have 2 questions, i'm pretty sure i need an alignment but i thought id run it by you all first. when i get to about 55-65 my steering wheel vibrates like a *****. its driving me nuts. so would an alignment take car of this??? and 2nd question, i was thinking about getting a k&n filter for my maxima, is it worth it? can you tell a difference from the oem filter? ( i already have aftermarket y pipe, hiflow cat, cat back)
Old 09-25-2010 | 10:41 AM
  #6367  
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Originally Posted by 540maxima
hey guys what up? i have 2 questions, i'm pretty sure i need an alignment but i thought id run it by you all first. when i get to about 55-65 my steering wheel vibrates like a *****. its driving me nuts. so would an alignment take car of this???
Take it in to get the tires balanced. If it pulls hard to the left or right than take it to get an alignment.

and 2nd question, i was thinking about getting a k&n filter for my maxima, is it worth it? can you tell a difference from the oem filter? ( i already have aftermarket y pipe, hiflow cat, cat back)
The K&N filters are decent, and reusable, so even if they don't give you any noticeable gains they will save you money over a period of time.
Old 09-26-2010 | 06:53 AM
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Im having problems starting 95 max. I got the starter swapped at autozone because the other one was dying. Now with the new one in. Sometimes when starting it sounds like its skipping making like a grinding noise. It takes like 2 or 3 time for it to start ?
Old 09-26-2010 | 07:33 AM
  #6369  
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Originally Posted by Trin1j23
Im having problems starting 95 max. I got the starter swapped at autozone because the other one was dying. Now with the new one in. Sometimes when starting it sounds like its skipping making like a grinding noise. It takes like 2 or 3 time for it to start ?
AZ starters are cheap they are just rebuilt used parts. since is such and easy swap pull it again, bring it in and have it bench tested make sure they do it multiple times in a row.

if it does fail make them bench test the replacement too!
Old 09-26-2010 | 07:48 AM
  #6370  
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00vi swap

i hope this a legitamite question, does n e body know every single part that i will need to do a complete 00vi swap

95 maxima gxe completly stock this would be my first engine mod

if so would you be kind enough to pm the list of parts needed from what car or parts that need to be brought from my local speed shop

Thanks
Old 09-26-2010 | 08:14 AM
  #6371  
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Originally Posted by xj0hnx
The spark plugs were number one on the list, the fuel and air filter were more just routine maintenance items that happened to fall in a couple of the possibilities of the 0608, intake air leak, incorrect fuel pressure, and lack of fuel. Good thing I did because two of the latches weren't shut on the box, and the filter was a Fram that was deteriorated. I cleared the codes, and they haven't come back yet, hopefully they won't, or at least the 0608 won't.

Interesting about the transmission breather hose, thanks.

***edit***

Well, the CEL came back, BUT the 0608 is gone (w0ot for new plugs!!), it's just the IACV and knock codes. Will the knock sensor, or IACV being bad cause a reduction in performance? Is there a limp mode on Maximas when the knock is out like in Hondas?
knock sensor will deff cause a lack of preformance as it tell the ecu to advance or retard the timing there is a video tutorial on you tube on how to replace it when doing so check the wiring harness also they get brittle and crack ill see if i can get the link to the video

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R2ntaxi7bXk

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fPIMOIwLISc

Last edited by luke95gxe; 09-26-2010 at 08:20 AM.
Old 09-26-2010 | 08:42 AM
  #6372  
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Originally Posted by Trini Boom
You may need to get one yes. Do you have oneven wear on your tires??
I took my car to a Les Schwab store yesterday to have a wheel alignment. After checking it, they advised me to replace the lower ball joint for both side (in the front). They said I need to fix this first in order to do the wheel alignment. The total cost is about $270 I took the car home and checked for the lower ball joint but did not see any bad about that. The only thing that I saw was when I turned the steering wheel fast, the lower ball join was not stable, and moved right, left, and up and down. Does this considered as bad, and need to be replaced?

Very appreciated, thank you
Old 09-27-2010 | 08:09 PM
  #6373  
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Originally Posted by xj0hnx
The spark plugs were number one on the list, the fuel and air filter were more just routine maintenance items that happened to fall in a couple of the possibilities of the 0608, intake air leak, incorrect fuel pressure, and lack of fuel. Good thing I did because two of the latches weren't shut on the box, and the filter was a Fram that was deteriorated. I cleared the codes, and they haven't come back yet, hopefully they won't, or at least the 0608 won't.

Interesting about the transmission breather hose, thanks.

***edit***

Well, the CEL came back, BUT the 0608 is gone (w0ot for new plugs!!), it's just the IACV and knock codes. Will the knock sensor, or IACV being bad cause a reduction in performance? Is there a limp mode on Maximas when the knock is out like in Hondas?
Yes, a bad knock sensor does reduce performance and adjusts the timing to prevent engine damage. IACV will give you poor idling which you will need to replace.
Old 09-27-2010 | 08:11 PM
  #6374  
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Originally Posted by theodsman
I'm having hard start issues when engine is cold again. I thought I had solved the problem, but it's back. I just replaced the MAF and with the new MAF I'm having a hard time starting it in the morning. With the old, failing MAF it started fine though it wouldn't necessarily run.

The car has new injectors, new coils, new O2 sensors, engine coolant temperature sensor, high octane fuel and runs great once it runs. I've also checked the grounds and added additional grounds. It just doesn't want to start is the problem with the new MAF.

I've been over all the threads before. Any other ideas why a new MAF might cause hard start issues?
If it takes long to crank or starts and cuts off right away, replace your Fuel Pressure Regulator (FPR).
Old 09-27-2010 | 08:16 PM
  #6375  
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Originally Posted by bluesky
I took my car to a Les Schwab store yesterday to have a wheel alignment. After checking it, they advised me to replace the lower ball joint for both side (in the front). They said I need to fix this first in order to do the wheel alignment. The total cost is about $270 I took the car home and checked for the lower ball joint but did not see any bad about that. The only thing that I saw was when I turned the steering wheel fast, the lower ball join was not stable, and moved right, left, and up and down. Does this considered as bad, and need to be replaced?

Very appreciated, thank you
You need to jack up your wheel one at a time on each side and shake top to bottom and left to right. When you shake top to bottom and feel any slight movements whatsoever, your ball joints are bad. When you shake the wheel left to right and if any movement, your tie rod is no good.
Old 09-28-2010 | 12:01 AM
  #6376  
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Originally Posted by Trini Boom
You need to jack up your wheel one at a time on each side and shake top to bottom and left to right. When you shake top to bottom and feel any slight movements whatsoever, your ball joints are bad. When you shake the wheel left to right and if any movement, your tie rod is no good.
Thank you very much
Old 09-28-2010 | 06:29 AM
  #6377  
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Problem with Headlights!

I just installed a set of HID's in my 95 maxima. The low beam works fine but there is no high beam(it is the dual bulb). The only reason i want it to work is for the daytime running lights, which i need. Another thing is that when i have the low beams on, on my dash board the blue highbeam light turns on. Can anybofy help???
Old 09-28-2010 | 12:12 PM
  #6378  
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does anyone know if the body molding on the doors can be taken off without any holes behind it? im not sure if it is just stuck with double sided sticky tape or actually stuck with panel clips..
Old 09-28-2010 | 12:46 PM
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Originally Posted by ryzabuv01
does anyone know if the body molding on the doors can be taken off without any holes behind it? im not sure if it is just stuck with double sided sticky tape or actually stuck with panel clips..
Unfortunately, there are panel clips and holes will remain if you remove the door molding.
Old 09-28-2010 | 03:19 PM
  #6380  
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Originally Posted by flav12
I just installed a set of HID's in my 95 maxima. The low beam works fine but there is no high beam(it is the dual bulb). The only reason i want it to work is for the daytime running lights, which i need. Another thing is that when i have the low beams on, on my dash board the blue highbeam light turns on. Can anybofy help???
Your issue is the wire harness. Check the wire behind the headlight and make sure they are not miving around in the socket and pushed in fully. Once this is solved, your low and high beams will work.
Old 10-02-2010 | 09:58 PM
  #6381  
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MAF

Yes i am a noob. The MAF went bad on my 1998 maxima, I know it's bad because I looked inside and saw that some of the delicate little parts had fallen out. The car went into 'Safemode" meaning it will idle but won't go over 2000 RPM. I ordered a new MAF, my question is will I have to have the computer "Reflashed?"
Old 10-03-2010 | 12:11 AM
  #6382  
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Originally Posted by hiwayman
Yes i am a noob. The MAF went bad on my 1998 maxima, I know it's bad because I looked inside and saw that some of the delicate little parts had fallen out. The car went into 'Safemode" meaning it will idle but won't go over 2000 RPM. I ordered a new MAF, my question is will I have to have the computer "Reflashed?"
No.
Replace MAF.
Clear code(s), if any.
Done.
Old 10-03-2010 | 09:14 AM
  #6383  
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I have a 1999 SE with sunroof. We just had a lot of rain and the rear passenger floor is soaked with water. door gaskets are in great shape - i think it may be coming in through the sunroof. are there drains for the sunroof, if so how do i get to them? that is the only way I can think of water entering - any suggestions?
Old 10-03-2010 | 05:39 PM
  #6384  
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Originally Posted by elbertus
I have a 1999 SE with sunroof. We just had a lot of rain and the rear passenger floor is soaked with water. door gaskets are in great shape - i think it may be coming in through the sunroof. are there drains for the sunroof, if so how do i get to them? that is the only way I can think of water entering - any suggestions?
there are drains used compressed air to blow them out with sunroof open u will see little holes blow them out
Old 10-05-2010 | 01:31 AM
  #6385  
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Are brembo rotors the same quality as OEM?

Also where can I get quality Calipers for a 4th gen maxima?

Please do not tell me that any will do because my uncle installed some calipers on his this summer and they are already rusted.

Also, any experience with Wagner Thermo Quiet brake pads?
Old 10-05-2010 | 04:36 PM
  #6386  
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Custom maxima Catback exhaust

I have a 96 Maxima and was wondering if any of you have actually installed this catback on your car
http://www.custommaxima.com/product/...FUM45wodBnkwvg
I was just wondering if one of you could tell me what it takes to install and what skills i would need to do it. Also It says you may need a sensor pipe, which i can't find, and i would appreciate if someone could help me out!!
Old 10-05-2010 | 04:48 PM
  #6387  
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Originally Posted by zt14
I have a 96 Maxima and was wondering if any of you have actually installed this catback on your car
http://www.custommaxima.com/product/...FUM45wodBnkwvg
I was just wondering if one of you could tell me what it takes to install and what skills i would need to do it. Also It says you may need a sensor pipe, which i can't find, and i would appreciate if someone could help me out!!
A catback can be installed with basic hand tools, jack/jack stands, and some pb blaster.

This is the what the sensor pipe looks like

You should check out this thread also http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...k-exhaust.html
Old 10-05-2010 | 08:48 PM
  #6388  
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Hi guys! Just had the my oil seals at the crankshaft and tranny replaced. When the mechanic installed back the parts, the airbag and ABS light is on. I was in a rush when I got the car so I had to wait til friday to have it fixed. I was able to reset the Airbag. But the ABS? Any idea where to start checking for connections? Thanks.
Old 10-06-2010 | 10:33 AM
  #6389  
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Where is the best and cheapest place to buy a knock sensor and a crank sensor?
Old 10-06-2010 | 10:34 AM
  #6390  
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Originally Posted by jason_10
Hi guys! Just had the my oil seals at the crankshaft and tranny replaced. When the mechanic installed back the parts, the airbag and ABS light is on. I was in a rush when I got the car so I had to wait til friday to have it fixed. I was able to reset the Airbag. But the ABS? Any idea where to start checking for connections? Thanks.
Read the codes, go from there.

Originally Posted by old but good GLE
Where is the best and cheapest place to buy a knock sensor and a crank sensor?
PM me on the crank sensor, I've got a few for sale.

For the knock sensor, I've never had a problem with the cheap ones on eBay.
Old 10-07-2010 | 12:57 PM
  #6391  
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CEL 1003

hello,

I'm fairly new here, but I have a question. I have a 1996 Nissan Maxima SE 5 speed that is giving me the code 1003. According to http://boredmder.com/ecucodes/index.php, this code means that I need to replace the Neutral Position switch or check the continuity of the connections.

I'm not really sure where to go from here. I can't seem to find a proper replacement anywhere online because all the parts I've found say that they are for automagic transmissions. Not to mention, I don't know where the part is located. After searching through the forums a bit, all I can find is that it is either under the clutch pedal or somewhere on the transmission.

I just need some advice on where to go from here.
Old 10-07-2010 | 06:29 PM
  #6392  
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Originally Posted by holymoo
hello,

I'm fairly new here, but I have a question. I have a 1996 Nissan Maxima SE 5 speed that is giving me the code 1003. According to http://boredmder.com/ecucodes/index.php, this code means that I need to replace the Neutral Position switch or check the continuity of the connections.

I'm not really sure where to go from here. I can't seem to find a proper replacement anywhere online because all the parts I've found say that they are for automagic transmissions. Not to mention, I don't know where the part is located. After searching through the forums a bit, all I can find is that it is either under the clutch pedal or somewhere on the transmission.

I just need some advice on where to go from here.
The neutral position switch is located on the driver's side of the engine bay, at the very bottom of the trans. Black plastic, one bolt holding it in place, wiring harness coming from the back and going up to the top of the trans. Chances are it's just worn out, or it could be a harness or connector issue.

If you're looking to pick one up, I've got a spare laying around.

How to check, and where it's located:
Old 10-08-2010 | 09:28 AM
  #6393  
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Originally Posted by 1998MaximaGLE
Are brembo rotors the same quality as OEM?

Also where can I get quality Calipers for a 4th gen maxima?

Please do not tell me that any will do because my uncle installed some calipers on his this summer and they are already rusted.

Also, any experience with Wagner Thermo Quiet brake pads?
Brake parts rust naturally. It's just a side effect of the high heat. As long as they're not seized or anything like that, they're ok.
Old 10-10-2010 | 10:16 AM
  #6394  
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i own a 96 max current tire size 205/65-15 and im looking to purchase winter tires, i found a good set of 4 for a great price however they are 205/70-15 will they fit my maxima?
Old 10-13-2010 | 04:55 AM
  #6395  
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Originally Posted by cammac1989
i own a 96 max current tire size 205/65-15 and im looking to purchase winter tires, i found a good set of 4 for a great price however they are 205/70-15 will they fit my maxima?
Yes, they should fit!
Old 10-13-2010 | 04:50 PM
  #6396  
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Nissan Maxima 97 GLE. Finally been able to do some DIY work and learning my car. Had to change the starter and I ended up replacing the MAP sensor also. Now I'm getting the P0443 code and wondering if this burgundy colored plug with red, white, blue wires has something to do with it? I can't seem to find out what it connects to (it's wrap with two other plugs by the intake manifold)? think I unplugged it when changing the starter? (changed the starter in the dark) I have no idea, smh.

It looks to be a plug warped around with the two other plugs that come from evap canister control valve...(black round piece)

Last edited by 90s*kid; 10-14-2010 at 03:18 PM.
Old 10-14-2010 | 01:13 PM
  #6397  
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Originally Posted by cammac1989
i own a 96 max current tire size 205/65-15 and im looking to purchase winter tires, i found a good set of 4 for a great price however they are 205/70-15 will they fit my maxima?
the 205/70 has to do with the width of the tire and amount of tire surrounding your wheels, its a ratio of sorts, that means that compared to your existing ones, its the same width and slightly larger profile or sidewall, but they are the exact same radius, 15". another example would be like mine, I run stock rims with 215/55-15 which would be slightly wider tire and slightly less sidewall.

someone correct me if I'm wrong but isnt these measurements in millimeters or something?
Old 10-14-2010 | 03:38 PM
  #6398  
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3 questions

Hello all. I was helping my friend inspecting 96 Maxima 5-spd (I own similar car) and what I saw puzzled me a lot. Any help will be appreciated.
(1) RPM gauge stays at 2500, even after car is wormed up. Real RPM of idling engine was close to spec (definitely not 2500- I know how the engine revved to 2500 sounds like).
(2) There were no oil leaks at idle, but I spotted a leak from between the engine and transmission after a short test drive. In my opinion it was a tranny oil (because the oil does not looked and smelled like the oil from the dip stick). Does it sound like tranny main seal is leaking?
(3) Engine bay is very dirty, with lots of oily dirt everywhere. What kind of malfunction(s) would you expect if oily dirt gets even on the rear wall (on aluminum plate where cars VIN, color cod, and tranny model are posted)?
Old 10-14-2010 | 04:23 PM
  #6399  
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Originally Posted by Phromethius
the 205/70 has to do with the width of the tire and amount of tire surrounding your wheels, its a ratio of sorts, that means that compared to your existing ones, its the same width and slightly larger profile or sidewall, but they are the exact same radius, 15". another example would be like mine, I run stock rims with 215/55-15 which would be slightly wider tire and slightly less sidewall.

someone correct me if I'm wrong but isnt these measurements in millimeters or something?
Example: 195/70R15. The 195 is the tire width in millimeters, measured from the bottom of the bead to the bottom of the bead, the 70 is the sidewall aspect ratio, the ratio of sidewall height to tire width at the tread (indicating that the sidewall height is 70% of the tread width), and the 15 is the wheel rim diameter in inches.
Old 10-14-2010 | 06:22 PM
  #6400  
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From: Brooklyn, NY
Originally Posted by 90s*kid




Nissan Maxima 97 GLE. Finally been able to do some DIY work and learning my car. Had to change the starter and I ended up replacing the MAP sensor also. Now I'm getting the P0443 code and wondering if this burgundy colored plug with red, white, blue wires has something to do with it? I can't seem to find out what it connects to (it's wrap with two other plugs by the intake manifold)? think I unplugged it when changing the starter? (changed the starter in the dark) I have no idea, smh.

It looks to be a plug warped around with the two other plugs that come from evap canister control valve...(black round piece)
This code points to the EVAP canister located on top of your engine towards the firewall in the middle. It should have two vacuum hoses connected to it and silver in color with a brown cover at the side of it.


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