im making one and i need a cone filter for it

 

i am looking at ordering a warpspeed ypipe for my 98 maxima anyone know how warpspeedperformance.com is are they fast and wen putting it in the car does it bolt right up no problem or do i need to make modifications

 

SEARCH.

THere are how-tos for installin the y-pipe and its pretty straightforward.

Warpspeed will not require any additional modification.

 

Hey org....I have a 96 max and i converted the front bumper to 97. Which fog light setup 96 or 97

 

For fitment of the light assemblies, you would want the 97. But the electrical wiring part, I don't know. The switch on the steering column could possibly be different between the 2 years.

 

understand its pretty straight forward remove one put new one on but to people who have done it before i ask of how it is to do if there is any fitment issues cause if there was i wouldnt want to order from warpspeed i would choose a diff place to order from

 

I have not passed an inspection in 4 yrs, I have done everything from knock sensor to speed sensor and car always fails. I am relying on the state for a waiver but it costs $250 in receipts of repairs towards getting the engine light fixed.
I was told that the MAX's computer has gone bad and I can believe it. I hate the seat belts so I would drive with the seat belt over my shoulders but the seat belt light would stay on. The seat belt light shut off over time which maybe cause the computer to become defective.
How can I change out the cars computer?

 

i have a 1997 nissan maxima GLE and have a few questions on it.....

i was told there is a bolt on turbo kit for this car that doesnt require any internal modifications (similar to the hellion turbo systems for domestic cars) is this true? if so where can i find it?

on my maxima the brake and battery light come on at the same time and stay on if one goes off the other goes of and vice versa what would be a cause of this everything i found online said alternator but had the starter and alternator both checked and both are fine. any ideas?

lastly any one know of any decent performance mods that i would get nice gains hp/tq out of that are fairly decent priced (not looking to spend 3-500$ per mod quite yet unless its for a turbo system which ill spend more than that on.

 

Answered.

 

Again, Warpspeed will not require ANY additional modification.

SEARCH.

There is a writeup for installing a warpspeed.

DONT get ebay y-pipe. THEY will require additional modificaiton/ fitment issues.

 

U say u have a problem but dont list what the problem is.

I cant help if u dont state a problem.

Any codes? Our ECUs RARELY go bad. And if it has, hit the junkyard for a replacement.

 

ok on a y-pipe what one would you suggest and where would you suggest to get it? and i already did a autozone build your own cai it helped but still not getting much out of it wanting to be getting more than that my b18 integra was faster than my maxima it seems like which disappoints me. and ive gone to the track and was blown away by most everything there.

also where would you suggest to get a bolt-on supercharger kit....

and do you know of anything else that would cause those two lights on the dash besides alternator? because it started happening after i changed out the factory bose radio with a kenwood i have gone through and made sure all connections are good and the proper harnesses were used.

 

Warspeed is the best no nonsense bolt on y-pipe. Cattman makes one too but u will be hard pressed to find one.

I think the weapon R secret weapon is the best intake for our cars. But i have to try it. Im savin up for it. cost 200 bucks.

The supercharger kits can only be found used. Look in the classified section to see if someone is selling one.

Installin the 00VI is a lot cheaper and easier to install. Gains of 20-30 hp if done properly. Dont ask man...SEARCH for more info. In fact, check this thread:

http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...hread-yet.html



I dont do factory bose. Major pain in the *** if tryin to go aftermarket. Either way the battery light only shd come on if the battery or alt is bad.

 

What would be the best lowering springs to get?

_____________________

 

I didnt list the problems since I already replaced the items listed from the codes. Nothing fixes the engine light. This is the reason why I was told to replace the entire computer, which is the only thing I have not done. I just hope to find instructions on this site how to replace the ECU..

Thanks for the super fast response cashoit...

 

First, just because there's a code for something, doesn't mean it's bad. If replacing those parts didn't fix the apparent problems, then you obviously did no diagnosis to condemn the part.

Second, have you done any diagnosis to condemn the ECU? Multiple apparently unrelated concerns can easily be caused by faulty wiring, including something as simple as a corroded ground connection. Yes, it could also be a bad ECU, but as said, that's rather unlikely.

Third, what does the seat belt light have to do with the ECU? The two systems are completely unrelated, short of them coexisting within a few feet of eachother. This also requires something more than diagnosis by shotgun.

If you care to list the codes, explain your problems, what you've replaced and how you've come to the conclusion that it's needed to be replaced, we can try to identify your problem. You just need to be willing to take a look at what's going on from a diagnostic perspective.


tl;dr:
If you don't care and wish to replace your ECU without diagnostics of any kind, then remove the two bolts from the ECU bracket, slide ECU and bracket out to the right along with the harness, swap over to a new one, reinsert bracket and bolts.

 

your car look good man.

Im on tokico HP struts / H&R springs. Check the thread:

http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...ighlight=blues

Do a SEARCH. Soooooo many suspension threads man and lots of good springs.

IF u tryin to go slammed...save your money and get coilovers. any setup for our cars lowered 2+ inches spring will ride like crap with struts. S-techs suck but they are 2.2inch drop.

The setup is not bad. My only gripe is that the front hits a lil too hard for me. But thats because i have the blues. I may buy 2 illuminas for the front so i can dial them a lil softer.

 

Thank Pmohr for your response. I am far from a mechanic. I had several mechanics look into the problem when everything said and done to remedy this engine light only way to finally hit all birds with one stone sort of speak was to change out the computer/ECU. Besides a water pump issue this car is the best riding car I ever had and I hate to sell the car off just because I cant replace the ECU or fix this engine light to pass inspection.

The details of the codes is that even getting a code for both knock or speed sensor or any other code I already got it fixed and replaced the part I would still get the same code for either knock or speed sensor. And when the state emissions computer connects to the car its read a message that the car is not ready or the car is not communicating with the emissions computer (after the car is reset the car was driven 120 miles and engine light has not come on yet).

I can hit advanceauto in the morning and get codes read again...

 

Why not just pull the codes manually? Much quicker than having to go out to get them read, and about as easy.

Again, you seem to equate 'getting a code fixed' with 'replacing a part'. It's not that easy. It could be that part, a harness connector, wiring, the ECU, or something as simple as a blown fuse or a poor ground connection.

Are the emissions monitors reading not ready, or is it not communicating? You say both, but if it wasn't communicating, then you wouldn't be able to see emissions readiness. Also, just because you've driven 120 miles doesn't mean the emissions readiness monitors will all be set, there's a specific drive cycle that must be performed to do so.

Are you still getting all of the same codes as when you first started? You need to list those codes, as likely there's a common problem to them all.

 

So my manual says to use 5w-30 oil. But I saw somewhere else on this site in a different thread that they recommended using 10w-30. Is this what I should be using on a JDM VQ30DE?

 

JDM? Sounds like nothing more than a waste of money, considering how cheap and plentiful A32s are in junkyards across the US.

JDM, USDM, doesn't matter. Those two grades of oil are identical at operating temp, the only difference is their viscosity when cold. What you run is up to you, 5w30, 10w30, 10w40, 20w40, and 20w50 are all listed as acceptable use, with 5w30 being the 'preferred' grade.

Basically, it really doesn't matter unless you're going to be seeing rather cold temps. It's all personal preference.

 

Whoa whoa whoa, pump your brakes, take an ice cold chill and calm down. I might be a little late in response but I just noticed your rant. This was a friendly challenge to you. It will help you get more acquainted with your ride.

I couldn't care less what you know about cars. You said you wanted to tinker with the car, I started out tinkering with mine and wound up replacing my head gaskets and then the tinkering stopped and ended up a challenge beyond belief. It started our a 4 day project and turned into 4 months. I am not a mechanic but I know mere about this beast now than ever before. It's a 96 and old but when it runs there's nothing like it.

Good luck with your tinker toy and keep your attitude in a little box and tuck it away on a shelf some where.

 

currently working on replacing my stock head unit. there's two electrical connectors in the back of the climate controls and i got one of them out, but the other one just looks like a square piece of plastic and i have no idea how to remove it. help please? x.x

thanks again pmohr. tried kept trying to look for a tab but i couldn't find one. after a bit of searching i found this http://www.shareamemory.com/radio/maxima96/ and it was MUCH more helpful than the sticky (putting aux on stock bose, not what i was doing but it still involved removing the radio)

 

They both have release tabs, but sometimes they can be tough to get to when they're in place, much like the defroster switch (or hazards, I forget which). Look around the entirety of the connector, you may need a pocket screwdriver to release it.

 

Ya I didn't spend the money for the swap. but I think it may be worth it as it came (before the ECU swap, CAI, new exhaust, etc.) with 230hp and 215 lbs of torque.

 

I used a flathead screwdriver. I did the 'white clock' film mod recently. But you will have to apply some pressure, more than it would look like you'd have to at first visual inspection.

 

Hey Im new and im getting a 1998 maxima as my first car and i want to make it fast. I have a **** ton of question can any one help?

 

...this is where you ask the questions.

First, you need to search. This very question has been asked hundreds of times in this thread alone, not to mention in the history of the 4th gen subforum. Search, read the stickies, search some more, then ask your questions.

 

Hi as my title says I'm new here. I have a 95 maxima and want to start fixing it up from scratch. Everything on the car is stock and I wanted your opinions or suggestions on what I should do with it. I'm looking for almost a VIP style thing but not as expensive. I wanted to start off small and start by changing the lights so if anyone could give me any suggestions on the nicest tail and head lights possible that would be great. Then after that I'll repost after I choose and install the nicest lights. Please bare with me as I'm new to this modding stuff. Thank you all

 

yo man, read the sticky

http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...hread-yet.html


Tons of great info in there.

 

hey everyone. I've got a 99 SE-Limited 5sp with california emissions. Its throwing a code for my knock sensor as well as crankshaft position sensor. I've been reading previous threads and know on most 99's the KS is below the intake manifold but i swear mine isn't there. I'm trying to get into doing some of the minor things myself but I can't figure out where my KS is for the life of me. Car is dragging like trash, acceleration is horrible, along with mpg has gone to shreds. Ive watched the youtube video and looked in my Chilton's manual, andnder the hood looks a tad different under the intake where the ks is supposed to be according to the manual. I can't even find the harness to follow the wiring to the KS. Can anyone shine some light on this for me? thanks

 

You have to look under the LOWER Intake Manifold, you have to keep going and dig in deeper. If you take off the lower intake manifold the knock sensor should be bolted right in front of you in the middle (valley) of the heads.Its just a little circuler black piece with a one wire connector on it. If you go any deeper your taking the heads off.

 

@defiance: thanks a lot. i'll let you know how it goes. might try it this weeekend. Does the fact of it having cali emissions cause that much of a difference in its placement?

 

Nope shoudnt mean a whole lot. Knock sensor will still be in the same place.

 

how do i see if my alternator is bad with out removing it?

 

Thanks man really helped me a lot but I think I'm gonna go with the skyline taaillights. So on paintscratch.cOm there's an option to buy paint primer and clear coat all in one color. My color is granite pearl so if I was to buy from paintscratch would I need to buy those three all in the same color or just the paint and primer in my car color? Because I'm confused how clear coat could be in a color other than clear? Thanks

 

And also how much of each can would you recommend I buy? Thanks

 

Question: My friend swapped his 300zx motor and i was wondering if his fuel injectors fit into our maximas (4th Gen). If they do what should i look out for??

 

+1 on the Illuminas, i'm going to be investing into a set later on

 

get a digital multimeter. Test voltage with car not running. Shd be 12 volts roughly.

test voltage with car running. Shd be 13.7-14.4 volts. If its less, than your alternator is shot.