So I guess I should go get some kind of new deck and upgrade the whole audio system...Any suggestions on decent quality on a budget? Let's say $1000 for the whole 9 yards. given Ive got an amp and sub already, lets say $800.

 

It's a matter of preference and an ear for quality, really.

 

I dont need the absolute best sound...I just want a nice comfortable ride with a clean sound to go along with it.

I was thinking, maybe I just go for it all and add a dvd deck and remote start and alarm system before it gets really cold...

How much would one expect to pay to install the remote start/alarm? Seems a little more difficult than the audio stuff.

 

I've gone through all sorts of brands throughout the years and I constantly come back to Pioneer (Premier Line) for head units. As far as speakers go, you just need something with a good mid-high range since you'll have subs for the lower end.

Dont get the remote start unless you REALLY need it. My brother has had his on his tC for about 5 years now and he hasn't used it for a good year or so now. :shrug: but Geographical location would play a large part in purchasing one.

 

Canada. Its pretty cold at 630 in the morning before work. Do i really need it? No. But if would be nice to have!

 

800 for a system is a lot! I got a bluetooth SOny HU for 170 and its quite dope.

Pioneer, Alpine, Kenwood, Panasonic, Sony all good HU man.

If u want navi, touchscreen and all that extra then yeah u can spend 800 real fast on that.

I got a security system installed for 200. add another 50 bucks for remote start. Add another 150 for a viper alarm. In retrospect, i shd have gotten a viper as they are the best alarms.

 

 

If this were the case, would it have worked for a while then stopped? Are you suggesting that it just came out of alignment, and may not be broken, or that the improper installation caused it to cease functioning after a few months?

(snipped)

I'm curious whether there could be some short in the electrical system that would affect these two components (clock and brake lights). I tried looking at the FSM online, but the wiring diagrams made my head spin and I didn't have the time to really sit down and try to figure out if there are any common connections between the clock and brake lights.

[I just wanted to repost this because it may have gotten lost in the audio discussion. Given that not having brake lights is a serious safety issue, I need to figure out a solution in the next day or so...]

 

dont quote me on this...but IIRC the clock and taillights are on the same circuit. I believe the brake lights are on a separate cicuit.

 

I'm suggesting that the switch is broken and would have to be replaced. The way the switches are mounted, I don't think they can move once installed, so improper installation would be the cause. Without any play, every time you take your foot off of the brake pedal, the return spring causes the brake pedal to slam against the switch, driving the switch's plunger into the internal contacts. The switch is not designed for this and would work for a while until internally damaged.

Not in the sense that you are wondering about. For example, if the battery were to go bad, both your clock and brake lights would not work. Neither would anything else so that is not a realistic possibility in your situation.

The clock and brake lights are on different fuses. It's possible you have blown fuses. Did you check those? Check the easy things first.

 

The only common thing with the clock and tail lights would be the dash lights. When the tail lights are on, so are the dash lights. The clock has a dash light connection to dim down the clock display. To run, the clock gets its power from a different fuse than the tail lights do.

 

yea, the dash, tails, dim, and interior lights all on the same circuit.

back when i wired up my HU, I had forgotten to tape off the wire for the dimmer. It kept shorting, blowin out all the beforementioned components. i think it was the "Illum fuse, 7.5A"

Brake lights were on a diff circuit.

Either way, he has a short somewhere.

 

Not a fuse issue, so far as I can tell. I pulled probably a dozen (inside passenger compartment) and they were all fine. On the fusebox under the hood, the fuses were all okay, and the fusible links looked okay, though I have no experience with those so have little or no confidence that I could identify a blown one.

Plus, the clock is back to working fine; it just reset the time roughly when (within a day or two - can't be more precise) the brake lights went out, after both had been functioning normally for weeks/months. If there was some common link between the two systems, I figured that would help with troubleshooting.

I'll probably just replace the switch myself tonight, assuming I can figure it out, then wait to see what happens. If it goes again, I'll try to find a different shop than the one that has already installed two stop switches in the last year.

Oh, and in case it's helpful, because my understanding is that the shift lock might use the same switch(???)... when I depress the brake, I do hear a clicking, and can feel the shift lock releasing if my hand is on the shifter when it's in park. Sometimes it's a little difficult to move it out of park - moreso than I think it should be. Related? Helpful tidbit?

 

SO frustrated.

I purchased the part - it's basically this: http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/de...SISLS143T.html

Alas, it's different from the 5th gen, illustrated here: http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...ht-switch.html

I have no idea how to get the old one out. I spent an hour outside trying to figure it out. I feel like an idiot, and my neck hurts from hanging upside down.

I tried turning the switch counterclockwise, but though the plastic part moves, the metal threads don't budge, even after several revolutions. The lock nut is wedged behind a bracket, inaccessible to normal wrenches, though I don't see how that would affect removal (just prevents inserting further).

WTF!?!

 

Not really a lock nut, more like a jam nut. The nut is tightened against the bracket, which keeps the brake light switch from moving. You must loosen the nut to remove the switch.

 

That's a good "paying attention to details" catch. The shift lever lock is powered by the brake light switch. So that means that the brake light switch is evidently working. However, there aren't any other switches between the brake lights and the switch. There are wire harness connectors in between, though. Another possibility is that the wire harness has been damaged. If you carry a lot of stuff in the trunk, heavy stuff that slides around, this is a possibility. The wire harness runs along the drivers side of the car and into the trunk.

Do you have a volt meter or a test light? You may be needing one for troubleshooting. But first, a very basic question. Have you checked the brake light bulbs to see if they are good?

 

Ooopps - I either had a brain fart or I screwed up - pick one.

There is no dash light connection/wire to the clock. It has a wire from the tail light switch. The dash light power goes through a dimmer switch and I don't think that would work well with the clock. But the use is the same, to dim the brightness, not power the clock.

Sorry guys.

 

It's definitely not the bulbs. How do I know? Because the brake lights started magically working again on my drive home from the Metro after work. There must be a short somewhere in the wiring or a connector. Either that or my original comment about gremlins rings true...

I'm heading out of the country for a week on Sunday, so we'll see what happen upon our return.

 

Sup Guys! So I know I am focusing all of my effort into the wrong direction in terms of car modding. I just got my Short Ram intake installed and I really do appreciate the way the car sounds now which makes me want to get into modding, I also need rims but here is what I want to ask. What order should I purchase these things?

-Lowering Springs OR Ground Control Coil Overs (Any Good?)
-18 inch matte white rims (Stuck with the 4th gen stocks....)
-Megan racing Cat Back Exhaust
-Chip - I know NOTHING about chips, does anybody here have one in their car? Like I said, I'm new to this and I've been looking up a lot of stuff just not this yet.


Lastly- Shaved door handles just in the back. Does it make it seem like I'm trying too hard to look like a coupe? Lol

Thanks, Tommy

 

i have a 1995 nissan maxima that will not start. i have compleated a bunch of diagnostics and here is what i have found. i have 45lbs of fuel pressure, i have 8oms of resistance on the ground side of my injecters and when you crank on it it bounces between 8 oms and 0 oms. telling me i do have the signal to fire injecters. using a volt meter it shows that there is 12 volts to the injecter,( but it will not light up a test light, i know you are suppose to use a noid light but have been told that a test light is just fine) i can manually jump the injecters with jumper wires and they will fire and after i have done that on a few of the injecters it will try to fire, but since there is not gas in all of them and only enough for 1 or 2 combustions it will not start. it has 145 lbs compression. the cam position senser reads 1275 oms. all fuses are good, what else am i missing that would cause my problem. i know there is a lot there, if there is any way that any one with insight could reply to my email as well as here it would make this a little easier so that i dont have to read all the pages of the post to find if someone replys to this post. xltpolaris97@yahoo.com

thanks a bunch

 

8 ohms of resistance to what, ground? If it will not light up a test light, have you done a voltage drop test on the power feed wires under load?

What do you mean 'since there is not gas in all of them'? You say you have fuel pressure (you neglected to mention where, we can only assume at the rail), which means there will be fuel at the injectors.

You have said nothing of spark, have you not checked?
Have you checked for codes, to give you a starting point? You've tested the cam sensor (and even that test means nothing as far as whether or not it works properly), but both crank sensors are also required for the engine to run.

Did you do anything, have anything done, or did anything happen to the car immediately prior to it not starting?

More diagnostic and history information would be helpful.

 

I have a 99 SE that will turn over but not start. Security light is soild red while the key is in the on position. Past threads point to a key issue. Question is if a locksmith can read my current key could having a new one cut work. I really do not understand the programming piece. I took the key to a place today and thier machine read the key. I really need help getting my car back on the road. Any help is greatly appreciated.

 

Yes, that's a NATS issue.

Depends on the locksmith, really. Note that if you want a locksmith to just clone your current key, that will not fix your security issue; if NATS has hiccuped and 'forgot' the key ID, the cloned key will work no better than your current one, as it will be identical from a NATS point of view.

Either bring it to the dealer or a locksmith that can do NATS programming, have a few new keys cut (when NATS is relearned, all previous IDs are erased; any keys you want to work must be present at the time of programming).

 

I have a 98 max and my egr was clogged I cleaned it out and my car is worst then when it was clogged

 

Let's start with I had a rear valve cover leak and my knock senor was bad so I toke off the intake and discovered the intake was clogged and so was the egr tube what else would be clogged I cleaned the intake and tube but car won't stop jumping it feels worst then when it was clogged

 

Originally Posted by frustrated in ut
i have a 1995 nissan maxima that will not start. i have compleated a bunch of diagnostics and here is what i have found. i have 45lbs of fuel pressure, i have 8oms of resistance on the ground side of my injecters and when you crank on it it bounces between 8 oms and 0 oms. telling me i do have the signal to fire injecters. using a volt meter it shows that there is 12 volts to the injecter,( but it will not light up a test light, i know you are suppose to use a noid light but have been told that a test light is just fine) i can manually jump the injecters with jumper wires and they will fire and after i have done that on a few of the injecters it will try to fire, but since there is not gas in all of them and only enough for 1 or 2 combustions it will not start. it has 145 lbs compression. the cam position senser reads 1275 oms. all fuses are good, what else am i missing that would cause my problem. i know there is a lot there, if there is any way that any one with insight could reply to my email as well as here it would make this a little easier so that i dont have to read all the pages of the post to find if someone replys to this post. xltpolaris97@yahoo.com

thanks a bunch




yes thats 45lbs pressure at the rail. and yes 8 oms on the ground side of the plug to the injecters. as for spark. if i manually fire a couple of the injecters the car will fire when i crank on it, or if i dump gas in the intake through a port on the top of the intake it will aslo fire,(old carberated trick, easy way to tell if the motor will run yet has fuel supply issues at the carb) but not run. but since i did not manually fire all the injecters, and the dumping gas in it is not getting the proper mixture to all combustion chambers and there is not fuel in every combustion chamber the car does not start. which is the reaction i would have expected. it just fires on the 2 cilinders that i manually fired the injecters on.

yes i checked for codes. There were 2 of them, one is the knock sensor code, which i replaced. the other is an O2 senser. which i did not replace.

As for if i did any thing prior to it not starting no. I drove it on about a 100 mile round trip for work, parked it in the paking lot running fine. When i went to leave work it would not start. This was late spring time that it happened, so its not related to being cold now at all. The car sat all summer because i had no time to work on it.

how would i do a voltage drop test on the power feed wires under load?

If i under stand correctly on how this all works the ecu fires the injecters by grounding them out. if there is suppose to be constant power to the injecters if the key is on and all fuses are good, is the power supplyed through the ecu, does the cam sensor, or any of the crank sensors have any thing to do with the power supplyed, or only with the timeing through the ecu via when it is grounded to properly fire injecters and spark at the proper time.

 

Again, spark? Have you not specifically tested for spark at the coils?

The injectors receive a constant B+ feed in the '95s, not switched like all the other A32s (according to the FSM anyway, never had a need to check it out myself). This comes from fuse 58 (labeled ECCS 2) in the underhood fuse box. Check the voltage drop while cranking. Otherwise, just check voltage while the circuit is loaded (cranking, or put a load on it manually).

I wouldn't trust a multimeter to check for injector command, get a noid light (or just use an LED).

Pull the front rail and make sure the injectors are actually operating correctly while cranking, both electrically and mechanically. You also want to check for spark directly.

Pull the cam sensor and both crank sensors, check for debris on the end of the sensor.

 

Define 'jumping'. It's misfiring, hesitating, bucking, what?

You did replace all of the gaskets you disturbed, right? More than likely you created a vacuum leak during your work.

 

as for spark. the fact that it does kick over when i dump gas in it like i have done a hundred times on my carberated truck and have it act the same way tells me it wants to run. and when i manually fire the injecters my fuel pressure drops each time i ground it out. untill there is no fuel pressure.

 

So you're diagnosing using assumptions rather than actual information? Between that and the seeming lack of interest in responding to questions and giving thorough information...

Good luck, I'm done here.

 

I would put a hundred bucks up on the fact that i have spark. and that spark is not my issue, and what more information are you wanting. i have answered all your questions

 

Hello gentlemen I have a question, whats the purpose of the vacuum control valve? Is it really necessary for the car to run properly? I kinda destroyed it while trying to change my knock sensor ... And after that my car has been running pretty slow and it seems it lost alot of power. that my be due of me not tighten enough the KS too... Can someone help me please!

 

If the knock sensor is tight against the engine, it is OK. If you are worried that the bolt is non tight enough, either go back and tighten it more or wait but keep checking that the knock sensor has not loosened up.

The vacuum control valve needs to be replaced. Your check engine light should be on.

 

Modding does become a problem for all of us at one point lol.

Lowering springs are good up to 1.5 inch drop for our cars. Anything lower get coilovers.

Catback is a catback. Megan and greddy are good. Make sure it comes with a resonator.

DO NOT GET A CHIP. Its a waste of time and doesnt work.

The max is a sedan and everyone knows that. Making it a 2 dr is jus silly man

 

Thanks man! The bolt was kinda loose I could move the knock sensor with the harness. I fixed the swirl control valve, one of the arms that move the valve up and down was loose, The pin holding it together somehow fell off, i put some glue on it and that fixed it . Thanks again!!!!

 

So I got my new deck mounted and began wiring everything. Now I've already hooked up the following:

Yellow to battery w/ fuse
Red to switch
Black for ground
Speakers for each side
And all the remaining wires...

But my problem is the deck does not turn on at all. Shouldn't it be at the very least be turning on since battery and switch is hooked up? What am I missing?

 

Hello,
I couldn't find an official "NEW HERE BUT HAVE A QUESTION" in the 6th generation forum, so I don't know where else to ask this, but can someone tell me how the back speakers in a 2008 is removed (the ones behind the back seat)? I removed the panel under the speakers in the trunk and seen the bottom of the speakers, but they were screwed in from the top of the metal plate. Unless you really have to remove the whole metal plate, it would seem the "grates" covering the front of the speakers inside the car would pop off, but I didn't want to break them while trying to pry them off if I'm wrong.

Thanks!

 

Can we assume that Y is KAM, and R is an accessory switched B+, since you didn't provide a wiring diagram?

Recheck your powers and ground at the radio harness connector.

http://forums.maxima.org/6th-generat...ease-help.html

That being said, the only thing I see on the rear shelf for an '08 is a sub, rear speakers are in the doors. Since you say it's bolted on from the top we can safely assume that you don't have the BOSE system (since you didn't mention anything about it). You have to remove the entire rear parcel shelf to remove the sub.

 

[quote=pmohr;8298864]Can we assume that Y is KAM, and R is an accessory switched B+, since you didn't provide a wiring diagram?

Recheck your powers and ground at the radio harness connector.


Yellow was the constant +
Red was the switched +
Blue was antenna trigger
Orange was illumination

Front and rear speakers are hooked up to designated RCAs.

what am i missing?

appreciate the help.

 

In my '98 I30t, my A/C pumps out warm air. I had several "pros" test my A/C system with no luck. Even changed frion and a/c power switch and system tests out fine. But still blows out warm air.
I recall once going to the Nissan dealer and they said it was a common thing amongst that year i30/maxima. Mentioned something about a switch located behind the glovebox that was cutting off power at some point early. Any clue what this might be?