Thanks for the advice man! What about the resonator? I had a mine removed lol.

And are lowering springs just really unreliable for a drop that low, or uncomfortable?


Lastly, I need my Fookin' wing removed. Wish I never put it on. Its not a huge lookin R34 wing but I really want an R32 styled one or maybe even a really small "Wings West" but I just cannot find anything small!



But more like this----



So somewhere in the middle. And not to make it skyline, but to have a cleaner look.

 

Well it depends on whether the a/c compressor is running or not. If the compressor in not running, it could be the low pressure sensor under the hood. I don't know of a switch behind the glove box but I'm not an expert.

If the a/c compressor is running, then the problem could be the air mix door is not moving. That could be a bad door motor or a bad temperature control unit in the dash. If you have the auto climate control unit, there is a self diagnostic that you can run on the dash control unit. It is in the HA section of the FSM.

 

Thanks for the reply, and I'll repost this over in that forum. I don't think they are BOSE, as the bottom of them says "Nissan". And I don't think they're subs, as all the sites I've found with parts for 08 SE speakers lists them as rear package speakers, with no mention of subs.

 

Lowering springs on our cars for a drop of more than 1.5 inch Fronts will not be comfortable. Bottoming out will be an issue. Coilovers are the way to go for large drops and more reliable than lowering spring.

I put a M2 or M3 spoiler on my car. Its subtle but i like it.

Yeah man yur wing makes u look like u bout to take off and fly

 

Im thinking your air box door behind the dash is shot.

 

I just replaced my rear valve cover gasket and scrapped off what I could from the EGR tube as well, but no jumping like you say.

Try opening your hood and listening for vacuum leaks. Did you forget to attach a vacuum hose or connector? Reach behind and try to check if you got the EGR bolted down correctly, mine didn't want to thread in straight.

When you say you cleaned the EGR tube, how did you go about doing it? Anything you scrapped off should be blown out no problem.

 

My valve cover gaskets need to be changed. What else do you recommend that I change while I am going in? Should I do complete intake/plenum gaskets and knock sensor? I know some people say if it aint broke but i don't want to have to go back in there again.

 

Replace the spark plug tube seals (6) and the PCV hose that connects that connects the 2 cylinder heads on the passenger side of the engine.

Doing the knock sensor won't be any easier because it is under the lower intake manifold which does not have to come off for the valve cover gasket. I don't advocate changing the lower intake manifold gaskets, they are rarely a problem.

 

Driving a '99 Maxima SE, manual transmission, with 150 K miles on it.

When the car is in idle, I put it in gear then push down on the gas. Right as I'm hitting the gas, underneath and just behind me, I hear this whoomp sound...

I think the only time this has happened is when I'm going in reverse, but not positive about that.

Trying to describe the sound, the whoomp is subtle, kind of a whispered whoomp, lasts maybe a second.

Anybody knows what it is, I would love to hear it.

UPDATE: I'm out cleaning the thing today. 1st thing this morning, it was making the noise right after I started the car, put it in reverse, hit the gas pedal, and "wroooommp". It didn't sound like it was behind me, it sounded like under the engine. I could have been mistaken about it being behind the driver earlier.

 

So I'm sorta in the market for a 4th gen, as mentioned earlier. I come across this ad:
http://seattle.craigslist.org/sno/cto/2762889391.html

1998 GLE, with 123K miles, and a new catalytic converter, replaced 3 months ago (I text him and get more info). Cat was replaced 3 months ago due to "a hole in it"...and the exhaust system was changed.

He wants 3 grand for it...but with a current CEL on, he's saying it's an "evap code", but not giving me the code number (he claims he doesn't know). I'm thinking of taking it for a test drive down to my FLAPS and getting the code scanned to find out.

Before I do that, any ideas? Could it simply be a sensor? or should I run away?

 

RE: The "whoomp" sound in my Maxima, 2nd post above.

After lotta searching, looks like I finally found the problem on this forum. So common people have a name for it, the "Maxima Clutch Groan". I'm pretty sure that's what it is anyway... Have to do more searching later, see what people have said about it in the past.

 

I'm no mechanical expert, just getting started with this nonsense. But, as someone who just is a frugal, and thorough consumer, why not take the car down to your mechanic and get an estimate for fixing it?

That might be what you mean by FLAPS? I don't know what FLAPS is.

Depending on what the mechanic says, make an offer saying if your mechanic can fix it, you'll pay the costs for fixing it, and you'll pay this much for the car? That's a rough idea, your specific deal would be more dependent on what you think of the guy, what you think of the car, etc..

And, in my example, I don't know who would pay for the repairs if your mechanic can't fix it. But, there's always some risk when you enter into any financial transaction. More risk when you're spending three grand than when you're buying a seat cushion from Wal-mart.

But, you may be looking for an opinion from someone who's more knowledgable about car mechanics...

 

FLAPS is "favorite local auto parts store"...we use that acronym in my GrandAm forums, thought it was common, LOL

I can take it for a test drive and go there to borrow a code reader, then if I do ill post the code here.

My GrandAm seems to be on her death bed at the moment...may be joining the maxima owners club sooner than I planned to...

 

good stuff

 

There are maybe a half dozen or so codes that can be generically stated as EVAP code. Some will require parts to be replaced, some can be fixed by cleaning a sticky plunger, one or two require hours to find a vacuum leak (expensive if a shop is doing the work). An easy one is if the cas cap is missing or bad.

So, as others have said, get the specific code(s) and let us know.

 

1995 Maxima GXE, automatic, 270k miles

When I come to stop like at a light, I hear some type of light crackling type sound from the engine area what is this? The only way I can describe it is like the crackling you get from a log fire but not as intense.

Is this a symptom of a cylinder misfire or fuel injector fouling out? I had one injector replaced last year and the IACV, I heard a similar noise but more intense when I had these failures.

 

im thinkin lower control arm bushings or transmission mount

 

got a flowmaster series 40 on mine no resonator had it removed sound good i also have eibach springs with kyb agx sruts i like it its can be a lil harsh in the winter handle like a beast though but coilovers are the way to go if u wanna go low and deff lose the big wing man just go stock they look good and have a low profile

 

Hi my name is Adam. I just joined this forum today. Merry Christmas everyone. I have a 1996 Maxima and I got some Alpena Multi Gloz LED lights today for Christmas. I have searched the internet and tried as hard as I could here, and other places to findout how I could install it myself. If anyone is able to help me with this please write back. Thankyou very much.

 

try contacting brad his user name is tigersharkdude if theres anyone that knows led's then its him

 

Maybe someone can help me here with this problem. About 6 months ago I replaced the transmission on a '95 Maxima GL Sedan. Since then, the car is using up more gas than before. It's getting approximately the same amount of fuel economy as my old '94 Jeep Cherokee Laredo-- around 12 to 15 mpg. (The Jeep I don't use anymore because of the gas mileage on it.)

Before I replaced the transmission, I used to refill to a full tank every two weeks. Now, it's every week I have to fill up the tank, which is anywhere between $58 to $70 for me in California. According to fueleconomy.gov, I should get around 18 to 26 mpg. I know it's old car by now and should be a lot lower, but it's killing my budget with the amount of gas I put in it per week.

The fuel pump and filter have been replaced about two months ago. I've already given it an oil change, and changed the air filter, transmission fluid, and steering fluid. But, it's still using a lot of gas. The car still runs good, better than the old Jeep.

I doubt I can get more than $500 if I traded this in but can't afford a new car at the moment. Therefore, I have to see if there is something I can do with the gas mileage on this first.

Anyone have suggestions or thoughts what might be the problem?

Thank you.

 

The poor fuel economy started when u changed tranny? Hmm. Is the tranny the same type as u originally had...with the same gear ratios and such? Or did u do a auto to 5spd swap or something like that?

I would check your plugs and FPR, make sure your not running rich. Winter blend gas does reduce mileage a bit, but only like 2 mpg or so...


U said u changed tranny 6 months ago. Did you immediately notice mileage decrease, or are u just now noticing?

 

It's always been an automatic transmission before and after the replacement. It took the mechanic about two weeks to find the exact transmission, which was pulled from a similar make, year and model to put into my car.

I noticed the fuel economy decrease about a week after the transmission replacement. I took it back to the mechanic to see if there was anything wrong. He didn't find any issues with the transmission such as any apparent sounds or shifting problems. No transmission fluid leaks either.

Two months ago I sent it back to the same mechanic for a brand new fuel pump and filter. Still the same problems with the fuel economy. Spark plugs are new as well.

As for the FPR (fuel pressure regulator?), I have not looked into that. I'm not too familar with car parts especially for the Nissan. I think I know more about my Jeep than this Nissan seeing I've done more repairs to that old Jeep in 16 years than I've done with the Maxima. I've had only had three major repairs on this car-- brakes; rear end damage (thanks to a driver on a cellphone speeding on a freeway off-ramp); and the transmission being the most recent one. Luckily the rear end damage didn't touch the fuel tank, and just the trunk and rear bumper.

See, I drive about a total of 20 to 25 miles (about 10 to 13 miles each way) for my daily commute traveling about 10 miles above the speed limit (60 mph). In total, about 250 to 300 miles every two weeks. I know before the transmission replacement, a full tank of gas will last me nearly two weeks. Now, a full tank of gas is nearly a week (not a full week). I always use 87 octane. I just can't stomach paying for premium since the gas already constitutes a third of my monthly budget, with bills and everything else the other two-thirds. (Yes, a lot of my math especially in my line of work.)

 

Did your mech do the new plugs? Cuz maximas apparently are pretty picky, and from what I read NGK plugs are the recommended ones.

I read somewhere here than premium is required...not 87, but I could be wrong.

Try Seafoam? Put a can in the tank and some in the TB and/or crankcase (follow directions), that will hwlp clean the engine out.

 

Yes, the mechanic replaced the spark plugs but I have no idea what brand he used. He's been my mechanic for the last ten years since my previous mechanic got my Dodge Dakota stolen, which was gutted and I eventually junked it when I found the truck. (But, that's a story to tell for another time...)

I'll try the Seafoam first and see if it works. Then, later, I'll try changing the spark plugs to the NKG brand.

 

Hello everyone, I have a question:

I read the codes on my 1998 Maxima, and these are the 3 codes that I got:

-0309
-0304
-0705

I looked up online and saw that 2 of those codes are for EVAP and one is the knock sensor.

Our car has 100k miles on it. We got these codes before when we had only like 40k miles on it. But we only got 2 codes before, one was the knock sensor, and one for EVAP (dunno which one it was), now we got knock sensor and 2 EVAP codes.

Our car has been eating a lot of gas, average of 15-18 mpg with city and highway combined. Also, the radiator got a crack in it and fluid has been spraying out of the cracks at the top of the radiator. The car has always been driven normally, no fast accelerations. My dad has been adding more fluid to the radiator, and did something to it so that the water does not get pressurized in the radiator.

My question is: With those codes and the info I provided, what could the problem be? What do we need to fix?

 

The codes tell you what is wrong and what needs to be replaced. You have a bad knock sensor. The evap codes? could be any of these:
-incorrect fuel tank vacuum relief valve
- incorrect fuel filler cap
- fuel filler cap vent remains open or fails to close
- foreign matter caught in fuel filler cap
- a leak in the line between the intake manifold and the
EVAP Canister Vacuum Control Valve
- foreign matter caught in the EVAP CVCV
- leaks in the EVAP canister or fuel tank
- leaks in the EVAP purge line (pipe and rubber tube)
- EVAP purge line rubber tube bent
- blocked or bent rubber tube to EVAP control system pressure sensor
- loose or disconnected rubber tube
- EVAP CVCV and circuit
- EVAP Canister Purge Volume Control Solenoid Valve and circuit
- absolute pressure sensor
- tank fuel temperature sensor
- MAP/BARO switch solenoid valve and circuit
- blocked or bent rubber tube to MAP/BARO switch solenoid valve
- O-ring of EVAP CVCV is missing or damaged
- water separator
- EVAP canister saturated with water
- EVAP control system pressure sensor
- refueling EVAP vapor cut valve
- ORVR system leaks
thats a bad code to have but it could be something simple as well. Check the hoses coming from the cannister and see if they are shot. The code is set off alot of times by faulty tubing that is just brittle and doesnt seal well anymore

 

...no, that's just not how it works. Thinking like that is an excellent way to go about throwing a lot of money at a problem for no reason.

 

First, you need to replace the radiator. EVAP codes won't mean a damn thing if you try running it without coolant for a while.

The most common cause for P1448/P0440 is a bad canister vent control valve directly on the charcoal canister. IIRC, there was an updated part per a TSB.

First thing I'd do is pull the canister down and make sure that it's not falling apart internally, as this will clog up the entire system.

 

+1 for that. Mine was/still is stuck open and it was throwing the code (Obviously) you can try taking the valve off, look inside and you will see a plunger thing inside it. Put a screw driver...ahh screw it, heres a you tube video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PHbZwil1lMo

this may or may not work for you though, it DID NOT work for me until after i butchered the rubber around the plunger

 

A set of rx8 wheels is up for sale locally on Craigslist. I'm thinking about purchasing them but though ide post here first to see if any one has seen this done before. I feel the rims would look really sharp on my max, but I am not that sure about fitment. Any help with this would be appreciated, thanks.

 

research the size of both the whels you want and wheels you have and see if they will fit

 

well in the post it says they are a 5x4.5 but i looked up the pattern and I found that the pattern is the same as a 4th gen maxima. The offset is 50 for the rx8 rims and i think that a maxima is 40. I just want to see if anyone else has done this before and had any problems.

 

ok, I just bought a 1998 Infiniti I30 (not sure if its base or t) with 203,000 miles.Usually when its cold, but not limited to, it will start rough. When i start it will fire then stall. After about 2 or 3 attempts to start, it will run. Usually, but not always, the RPMs will flutter between 7-15, sounding like its about to stall. But it doesnt start rough all the time, only sometimes, Maybe 1 out of 10 starts, or once a day. The car runs great, a little sluggish, 1st to 2nd gear kinds hits a little hard, but other than that great. The Service engine light is on with 2 codes; P0325- knock Sensor 1, P0400- EGR flow Malfunction. Also, the Flex pipe leaks a little bit so it has a little exhaust leak. Im fixing that this weekend.
So my question is what can be causing this rough start?

 

Clean your MAF, Throttle body, and Idle Air Control Valve (IACV).

Test your IACV. Sounds like it may be on its way out. Cleaning will help. Clean the electrical contacts as well.

 

Ok ithanks im going to that along with the flex pipe then this weekend. I found a how-to for cleaning the Maf/TB/IACV, but How can I test my iacv?

 

Does anyone else have this issue on their 4th gen. maxima? I tried WD-40 on the parts I thought (and still think) are making the noise. It seems to be coming from the intricate setup for the hood struts. I'm not even sure what they are called, but they seem to be more complicated than needed. If anyone knows what I am talking about and can help, it would be much appreciated.

 

I have searched and found many similar questions that were met with simple buy a bunch of aftermarket stuff answers. I just bought a 95 SE and the car is great. Everything with the Bose system works just fine but the rear speakers were not on the car when I bought it. I have messed with these bose systems before on 300zx's so I know all about the amps. My thing is that they just are not there . I do not want to spend a ton of money and the sound in the car is great even without them. I want to buy some cheap CHEAP replacement speakers mostly just to fill the holes. I was planning on building a mounting ring and maybe even enclosures with a bunch of spare MDF that I have.

My question is this:

How bad is it to just clip the old Bose connectors and use the old signal wires from the Bose HU? I know the sound has been called flat and dead but the speakers im getting have some small crossovers.

Like I said, I am not spending over $50 on this so I just want to know if the signal from the wires is useable. I have one speaker that is just a 6.5" woofer that I am hooking up tomorrow and test but I wanted some input. Thanks!

 

You might need to change them....does the trunk stay open? or do you have to hold it up with your hand for it to not slam down on you? What year is your 4th gen?

 

why dont you just hit up the junkyard and buy some BOSE and then no cutting wires and you get good sound too....and they should be pretty cheap.