im really illiterate when it comes down to mechanics unfortunately......i know basics but thats about it......being that it isn't serious im willing to learn but i have not the slightest idea of what to do...

 

Couldn't find thread about this question:

Would the springs from A33 fit in the A32 with stock A32 shocks?

 

I still don't have enough posts to start a new topic, even in the Regional forums. Just curious if anyone here is from the MD/VA area that can do some work on a 4th gen. I need to install new LCA's Tie Rods and Sway bar links. If anyone knows of anyone, please let me know.

 

apparently it has been done before, but personally i wouldn't do it

 

contact KRRZ350, i think he offers his services for good prices

 

IMO starting a project is the hardest part. I didn't know much about working on cars before so I was always hesitant to start working on something. Once you start doing it it's much easier. As long as you know the problem and can read from the Haynes manual you'll be fine.

 

thanks im learning alot everyday i do most of my mods by myself they are pretty simple but thats a start

 

Thanks a bunch, much appreciated, but unfortunatly I'm WAY to far from Maryland. Try the regionals forum, I know the northeast one has an 'installers' section, maybe the one in your area has one also or you can start a thread in there once you hit the big 15

 

OK so i had thought that i had blew a motor mount on my car but when i went to go chek it out i relized that the crossmember under the radiator that the engine subframe bolts to was totally rusted threw . so my engine is sittin about 4 inches lower then it should be and is basically being held on by jus my upper motor mount. the rusted crossmember seemed to be bolted on. I was jus wondering if anyone has had a similar situation and wat the repair for it is , if that cross member jus bolts out n a new one bolts in or if it involves the frame being welded. please help meee!!!!I jus got this max about 3 months ago.

P.s. i cheked my old max that i have yet to sell and i noticed that the same part was also rusting through on it so i am assuuming that this may be a somewgat commoon issue but i really have no idea..

 

Yup, VERY common, I'm actually welding one in tommorrow night Ummm, It's about $130 part from nissan, but requires you to remove bumper, lights, etc, Then grind off the 'pinch welds' to get the old one off, then weld the new one on, paint the exposed metal, and reinstall everything. Expect to pay $600-1000 for a body shop to do this, so you can save alot of money if your ballsy enough.

 

ok so i have no problem with any of the install except for the weldiong, is there alot involved? and when i call nissan wat part am i specifically asking for
?

 

ah, my mistake, i cant keep those east coast states and state abbreviations straight

 

Ok... so I recently bought a 1997 Maxima with a 3.5L swap. The engine electronics are still 3.0L, but I want to get it dynoed to optimize the new engine. I know I need to buy an SAFC/VAFC, but after reading a few threads, I am still a little unsure as to which one I should use.

With my setup, will the added features of a VAFC help me? Also, what is the difference between the I and II generations? I found an SAFC I (the old **** kind) cheap, but for a little more I can get a VAFC I (the digital kind).

I just want to know if I will actually see any improvements on the dyno tune by going with the VAFC over the SAFC.

Also, is VAFC/SAFC/emanage ultimate the only way to go for dyno-tuning maximas? Or can you buy some sort of flashable ecu that will remember the settings? I don't want a pre-tuned chip, I actually want to dyno it, and I've been told you can buy flashable ecu's for dyno-tuning on some cars. It seems like this might help on this car, especially since I'm assuming the redline and other things have changed with the new engine.

Thanks.

 

My 98 max blows nice cold A/C, in fact I added 1394 to it last year carefully using a thermometer method which I can't remember in detail now but I know I was thorough and it worked great afterwards; and it was cold before I added it, but not as cold as you'd like, so I know it wasn't empty or anything and I'm fairly confident I didn't mess anything up adding refrigerant because it worked so well for 6 months or so. Recently though the compressor has been turning off(it goes from blowing cold air to warm air)with a resounding click from the engine compartment when the inside air temp is still a lot warmer than the A/C set temperature on my climate control. Is there anything I should go look for?

The car is not running hot, but I was going to post a seperate thread asking if there's a way to test my radiator cooling fans other than sitting idle for 30 bucks worth of gas(my temp gauge won't get over half way when it's 80 degrees out if I let the car idle for 15 minutes) ie should they always be on when the compressor's on?

Also, what is the sensor or switch directly above the thermostat on the engine? That thing has a lot of fluid around it.

I know this is a disjointed series of questions but somehow in my mind I have these 3 issues possibly being related. Thanks

 

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=446133
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=492413

 

In your case it would seem as if the relay is switching off, (occurs @ high engine load/aggressive throttle openings) or the fans are turning on.

The fans have variable speeds. They are activated in different situations. One of them being if the compressor is on. (lowest fan speed) And in other situations, they are activated after a certain coolant temperature is reached.

Are you referring to the one near the LIM, on top pof the engine, or the one in front (near the bealts/timing chain cover?
. Look into it/further investigate.

 

Thanks for the response. The sensor/switch I'm talking about is near the timing chain cover, in fact I think it's on the timing chain cover, it's on the passenger side of the engine near the top kind of all alone.

 

"lower radiator support"

As for the welding, it's not that there's alot involved, it's just that it is thin sheet metal, so you need a wire feed mig welder, and you need to practice practice practice first, it is really easy to blow holes through the metal.

 

OK so on my 98 it seems like the fans definitely aren't turning on because it's getting hot when idling and it cools down when the car is moving, and I turn on the A/C and the fans aren't on at all. As much as I hate to add confusion, it seems like the gauge is behaving somewhat erratically, for the most part it doesn't move away from 50% +- 5% even though I knmow the fans aren't turning on and I'm sitting at idle, then it may suddenly start to move. So what and how do I test, I guess the relay and the sensor. Aren't they different sensors that control the fan and the gauge though?

I've already replaced the thermostat last week and considering that the gauge shows the temperature increasing at idle and decreasing at speed I'm pretty sure the thermostat is working properly. When I turn the car off and wait 10 minutes after it's gotten warm the overflow is full to just under max and the radiator is full to the cap so I'm pretty confident that the coolant level is correct.

 

I found mirror on ebay. I need to replace my broken passenger side mirror. How do I go about removing the mirror? Both door handles (front and back passenger) are also broken off. There's only a nub to grab. Is there any way to easily replace those?

 

Hello everyone, I am new to the forum and maxima too.
I just got my 99 maxima and I am trying to work on it.
I have done a couple things that I will upload pics later when I m legitimate to post new threads

anyway i have a question.
does anybody know anything about the black housing clear headlights and corners that are sold on ebay?
also i am thinking about the black tailights too.

Any comments? complaints or praises? Please let me know so I can start ordering.

Thanks man!

 

can someone tell me which oxygen sensor is the bank 1 sensor 2 please...I am confused because i do not know which one I have to replace?

 

It is the one located behind the catalytic convertor.

 

They are kinda a pita, but it's all stuff you can figure out, just 'pop' the door panels off. As for the mirror, remove the triangular trim piece, there are three bolts behind it.

 

You're gauge is probably acting funny because your car is overheating due to the fans not coming on. Start with the simple stuff first, like fuse #17 under the dash, and the 30amp one under the hood, then move on to the relays etc, you can download the fsm on phatg20.net, the electrical schematic's and testing procedures start on pg. 321 of the "engine Control" section. Also, you failed to mention that your check-engine light is on, you should have code P1900 for the fans not coming on and if it is the ECTS sensor that should throw a code as well, procedure for testing that is also in the fsm.

 

Thanks again for the response and the link. My check engine light is not on, I don't know if I said it was I didn't mean to. I was just thinking how an FAQ on the cooling system might be nice. The gauge is definitely acting funnier than just indicating that the car is running hot at idle, hopefully that's it. High temperature seems like a pretty crappy thing to make a temperature gauge fail

 

Thanks, but how do I look up that user? Still restricted by post totals.

 

Try this, it might work.
http://forums.maxima.org/member.php?u=61446

 

I recently bought an auto 98 GLE and from the beginning it seemed to be driving fine. But a few days after the shifts felt harder so i had it checked out at a transmission specialty garage. They told me something it could be, but i brought it to the garage i bought it, and they said the previous owner had a shift kit installed, and that's why it shifts "firmer." It does shift firmer when driving, and im not really worried about that, but when i start it in the morning and put it in drive, it shift really hard, and feels like it just wants to go. I dunno what's going on with it, any help would be great. Thanks

 

Hello everyone, new to the org,
fantastic site, btw,


computer throwing the following codes- 0304 + 0506,

tremendous amount of gas passing through tail pipe + smoke, had
the exact problem 3-4 months ago, was throwing 02 codes, changed firewall O2 side sensor, car worked fine, now same thing, but no o2 codes, just the ones above, tested the MAF, crank sensor, 2 x O2 sensors, all good.

Much appreciate any insight,

cheers.

 

Hi,

is there a way to bypass all of this,
somewhat making the computer use, (((average))) settings,
reason, to use the car temporarily, i emptied 1/2 tank gas in 3 hours idling,
trying to troubleshoot the problem, car smokes tremendously, with liquid gas actually coming out tail pipe, interesting though, i reseted the computer, and
car works better ( not as much smoke/gas) as soom it relearns, all hell brakes
loose. i do not know why can the bloody machine use standard settings when such problems occur, one stupid sensor completely hijacks the car.

tried unplugging MAF, crank sensor, O2 sensors, no effect whatsoever,

BTW, was on the org for 5 hours yesterday, reading up, could not find one instance with the severity of my issue, just letting moderators know, even a newbie ( on the org) does homework, unfortunate cannot post legitimate serious questions. ( helping is 2 way street),
just my 2 cents.

cheers

 

OK so I tested the fuses before work today, (I have a difficulty multiplier of 2.0 of living in an apartment )and being that they were all in tact much to my dissapointment, later I wanted to recheck that the fans indeed weren't coming on so I set the A/C to 70 degress and verified that it was blowing cold air. Then I look at the fans and of course they weren't moving(I may be a noob but I think I'm not a total retard) and the A/C is still blowing cold air but I think I hear humming from the fans so I try to spin one of them and it has physical resistance so it won't spin freely though I don't know if that means anything, and then I do the same to the other one and it starts to spin on its own and stops, so I spin it harder and it starts working.

The car has 150k.

This is the driver side one that started moving with help, the gauge wasn't reading at all hot at the time and it was moving really slowly which should be correct operation that at any coolant temp with the compressor on the fan runs at the lowest speed; however, it seemed to be visibly fluctuating very speeds as if it were struggling. Earlier in the day the gauge had gotten up to close to 75% sitting at idle which still makes me think the fans hadn't worked at all before that.

I have no check engine light and haven't since this began, and I've never had a cooling fan error code.

So. Are both fans supposed to come on low speed when the A/C compressor is on? I'm thinking it's possible that the passenger side fan has been non functional for some time and the driver side fan just happened to die now, partially because it hasn't had to do anything for the last 6 months except breathe salt spray, but previously the driver side fan had been cooling the car enough to prevent any problems or symptoms.

Either way, the fact that that fan starts with a manual assist clearly shows the problem is in the fan motor itself and not in any circuitry, correct? I was thinking of trying to oil one or both, maybe I'll replace the passenger side fan and see if I can save the driver side. I have some Break Free 'greased ligthing' gun oil that worked miracles on my bathroom exhaust fan though I'm not sure where I'd oil it.

 

ok not really new here but just registerd and started posting. So heres the thing. Bose went out which of course is nothing new to you all. Dont wanna ship it to orlando and pay $200. Local guy wants to charge me $80 just to look at it so i mean it aint happenin. Usual cutting in and out, cd err and all that jazz. So i did the MadChef instructions on taking the radio apart and finding the bad resistors and so forth. I FOUND THE ANSWER!!! Well, resistors are pretty much ok but i found that the circled capacitor is leaking like a old battery. so i went to radioshack and brought another but heres the thing. The leaking capacitor says 470uf 16v. Radioshack dosnt have that. they hav 470uf 35v and 33uf 16v. WHICH DO I GO BY THE V, UF, OR BOTH. plz help me out. im gonna try nd hav my dad resolder this thing tonight or tomorow as soon as yall answer.
PLZ HELP ASAP!

 

go to an ELECTRONICS PARTS store, not IdiotShack, do it right the first time, if the store doesnt have it find the store that does. u dont want ur Bo$e to take a crap on u and have the capacitor go KABOOM !!!

 

ok well i just got this car about a month ago and its got a bit of a whine to the powersteering. I've never really messed with powersteering so im not sure what it is or how to fix it.

 

Have you checked the fluid level?

 

They shift very firm when cold, it's normal, if the valve body was modified for firmer shifts then it will do it even harder when cold.

 

Sounds like you found the problem. You can always check for power at the fans very easily with a voltmeter or a test light just to be sure. Unfortunatly I can't give any insight into taking the fan apart and regreasing the bearing, however that seems like it would be a band-aid fix anyways, especially when I could sell you both fans for $65 shipped.

 

Wow, where to begin on this one...... Ummmmm, your computer has nothing to do with this one, sounds like a faulty fuel-pressure regulator to me, but thats just my first suspicion. Is you check engine light coming on?

 

Can someone tell me how I would replace the A/C filter in a 96 Maxima? Recently I've been getting a bad smell coming from my A/C so I'm guessing it's time I changed it out. And can you tell me specifically which filter I would need to buy? Thanks.