That’s exactly what we don’t like. That is considered a thread jack

 

I'm told that the ks can be a phantom problem ie not really the problem but triggered by something else. Have you any experience with this? Also it appears that the links you've sent me do not take me to where they should. When I select them I get a window with a message indicating that the link is invalid and should be reported to the administrator....Also, what is 'free search'? How do you search these forums/threads? I tried selecting on the 'how to search' link at the top of this thread but the link is 'invalid' and I get no where...sorry to be a pain....

This is the actual message I get on all the links posted in each response....

'No Thread specified. If you followed a valid link, please notify the administrator'

 

Yes, I forgot about that.

Try this

That link should help you figure out your questions bout the KS/ghost/EVAP codes situation.

 

Another noob question. Last night was the first time i've ever driven my new maxima at night. i noticed when i turn on either turn signal a bright white lights up on the front corner of the car but dosn't blink. This happens on both the left and the right sides but only when you use your turn signals. For example, when i put my left turn signal on to pass someone driving down the dark interstate i can see a bright light turn on that shines to the left of the car on the front corner like a very bright side marker light or something but only when using turn signals. Is this by design? can someone please explain this to me as i've never seen this on a car before.

 

I'm guessing your Maxima is a 95 or 96. It's referred to as a clearance light. From the factory in 95/6, NA in 97+. There are other cars that have this so it is not uncommon.

Perfectly normal.

 

Thank you for the reply. I had never heard of this before though. I like the feature though.

 

so i bought my maxima back in may i think, and when i bought it the guy told me he had put a new clutch in it. so when i first started driving it i noticed that putting it in first is a little sketchy, and id like to say it kind of losses RPM's and isnt a very smooth shift. the guy is kind of cheap so im pretty sure he didnt put the whole clutch system on the car, and just put a new clutch plate on it, so the throwback bearing is worn out. does that sound right to you guys? do you experience any problems like that? if i put a new clutch, flywheel, and bearings on it do you think that would solve the problem? the clutch is also pretty stiff still, is that normal? i figured the clutch would be worn in by now. but i could be wrong.

i also had a question about the Greddy SP2 exhaust system, im planning on buying one, and i was wondering if i should take it to a muffler shop and get it installed or install it myself. i would like to install it up but i dont want to if its insanely hard or if i would have to weld anything. basically what im trying to get at is any feedback on people whove installed it themselves.

 

You don't need to weld it. It bolts up. The problem is that the bolts are hard to break on the exhaust system. You can do it yourself or have someone break the bolts for you, or have a shop install it. It's your call.

 

Hey i was wondering how you would take off the rear speakers....
I have the bose speakers in the back, and one of them is blown i need to find a replacement...

anyone help me?

 

Hey guys...

Any one have any ideas here? I check most of the fuses that i could think of and everything else in the car seems to work just fine... I dont want to drive another tank of gas without the odometer working.

any suggestions would be great

 

vq35de.com, you can get the fsm from there, it will help with trouble shooting your speedo issue for sure, but it is common for the small screws to loosen on the back of the gauge cluster........

 

ooops

 

A bit more complicated than that. Doesn't have much to do with the trunk (the speakers are top-mounted). Do some searching, it's been covered elsewhere.

 

Yeah this is correct. It is covered in the Stickies btw. You need to remove the seats, the pillars in the rear, and the rear deck to get to the speakers. The speakers are bolted downward so you can't remove them through the trunk.

 

My brake light indicator on the dash of my 98 Maxima is on and won't turn off (no, my parking brake is not engaged). I just had all my brakes done with new rotors and calipers about 10 days ago. Any idea what this could be? Any help you have is appreciated.

 

check your brake fluid level, you'll probably just need to add a little

 

i was just wondering if anyone had/has a write-up for an 00vi swap into a 96 maxima. thanks i was also wondering what is need for the swap,

 

Check this forum ---> http://forums.maxima.org/forumdispla...aysprune=&f=61

 

I have a 99 Maxima SE-L I'm changing the clutch on. The Factory Service Manual says not to bring magnetic materials near the signal plate on the flywheel. I thoughtlessly stuck the mag base of my work light on to the flywheel for a few minutes before remembering this prohibition. Now I don't know if I've harmed the signal plate or not, and I don't want to risk complete reassembly before finding out. Is there a way to tell if the signal plate is damaged? What does damage consist of - an induced magnetic field? - a changed magnetioc field? I called the local dealer service manager, but he was no help - told me that "possibly the Check Engine light will come on" when I start the car!

Thanks

 

I have a 96 Maxima, I recently took it to the dealer for a recall & they informed me that my Purge Valve is bad. Does anybody know what this is & if this is a easy diy fix for me.

 

It's part of your EGR system. It controls the amount of gas fumes from the system that recirculate back to the engine. It's an easy fix for you. Just need a new one (get it on here not at the dealer) and replace it. Nothing extensive. Grab a manual at your auto store and go to it.

 

I'd be careful with the swap if you dont know anything about it. It's an extensive swap and if you don't know anything about it it will not go well at all. Make sure you read everything you can and that you know the swap inside and out before doing it.

 

Is there another name for the part besides purge valve ?

 

EGR control purge valve

 

i have a 1999 Maxima SE which has a Bose sound system i was wondering would it matter if i got a AUX adaptar installed without changeing my HU and is i were to get Subs in my car with an AMP does does it effect my Bose sound system in anyway does and would i have to change my Headunit

 

You may need a converter to run the subs on the stock HU. I think since you're running the amp you should be ok with it all but I'm no audio guy. I wouldn;t recommend subs on stock speakers just because they are old speakers and subs with crap sounding speakers isn't impressive. I'd upgrade the audio inside the car first. Just my preference tho.

 

I have a No start/NO crank issue on a 95 Maxima GXE, This first started about two months ago, the car is my wifes car, anyways the car had been having some trouble starting, especially during cold starts it would take several times to crank over, i attributed this to a faulty ignition switch, well one day she came home from work, and we were about to go to the store when we got in it wouldnt crank, it wouldnt make any attempt at all to start, so i figured the ignition switch gave out. I went and got the replacement part, replaced it and it did nothing, it was late at night so out of frustration i gave up on it, the next morning i went out and it started right up. Well it continued later that night with the same problem. All the interior lights come on and everything works fine, but there is no attempt to crank, so then i decided to pull the starter and have the starter/solenoid checked. It checked out fine, so then i had the battery checked and it checked out fine. And after re-installing the starter/battery the problem just seemed to go away, well then yesterday she calls and it does the same thing, its been about 2 months since the first occurance, and im puzzled as to what it is. the ignition switch is new, starter and battery checked fine, there doesnt seem to be any clicking at the solenoid switch area, but there is a click in the dash. Ive searched and most everytime it is believed to be the ignition switch as the culprit, but it was replaced, now for some reason after the car sits overnight it starts right up.

So to sum it up, im having a no start/ no crank, intermittently, it will start after sitting over night, heat doesnt appear to be any factor on it. I dont believe it is the neutral safety switch, no codes. Car is an automatic. No click at the solenoid switch when problem is occuring. Battery is at 12.6. All interior lights work, no CEL or anything, car runs great all other times.

 

They're simply called upper and lower radiator hoses.

 

I just had similar problem with my 99; changed MAF and that did it. Bought off of ebay for $60 (vs. $350-ish new for the 99).

 

How soon after brake booster (99 Maxima) begins smelling like burning plastic is it going to fail? Or, is it at all? Any conditions where this makes sense? It's a pretty strong odor definitely coming from booster pump! Thanks.

 

Check GND and PWR points on the battery, starter, engine block and chassis. Give them a good cleaning, very good, and replace any mangled/corroded wires if/as necessary.

 

heys guys i have recently purchased a 99 maxima SE, I have 2 questions.

1. where would i be able to find some lips (side skirts) for my car, but i want it for the whole car, but i don't want a body kit (don't know if it makes sense)

2. my paint is not so good, its decent but i would like to get it repainted. what is a fair price that they should be asking for?

 

There are a horrific amount of different kits available. IMO, Stillen's is still the best looking. But, also IMO, doing JUST the front lip looks best as opposed to only the side sections.

It depends on the current condition of your vehicle. Most namely the body, paint, and color you want to go with.

 

thank you, but how to I search for them, lip kits? so far i have only been successful in finding body kits which is not what im looking for thanks

as for the paint

 

Ooohh, Black. That will take some extra caressing of the body since on black paint, the imperfections are even more amplified.

 

Hi, I did a search and found the directions to do this swap, but my question is what kind of availability is there of used or rebuilt 5spds? I ask this as I'm shopping right now for a 95-97 Maxima, and in all of western Canada I've found about 150 cars, and *maybe* 5 of them are 5pd, and I think 4 of those are white (I hate white). So I'm thinking of choosing an Auto due to the MUCH bigger selection (and lower price) with the aim of eventually swapping to 5spd, but I'm wondering if there are any reliable sources to purchase a 'ready-to-install' 5spd rather than scanning craigslist for the next 2 yrs, and what cost I would be looking at. Thanks guys.
-Chris

Btw that black max 2 posts above, <3

 

You live in canada, the 5-speeds there are vlsd, and white is my favorite color

But preferences aside, the conversion parts aren't easy to come across, let's say you buy a used tranny off car-part.com and rebuild it yourself, than you sepnd weeks or months on here, ebay, and the dealer scrounging up the nescassary parts and install/convert it yourself, that's like $2,000 in parts. Wait it out and find the clean 5-speed that you like, research the tranny bearing failures so you know what to look for.

 

Considering the auto's are about $1000-$2000 less than the 5spds I guess it's worth that premium to just get one that came 5spd from the factory.. same $$, no labour. Perhaps I shouldn't be so hard on white..sorry, 'pearl' Thanks for the info.

 

Since it sounds like the factory bearings are just a bad design, is there any aftermarket replacements that hold up better? Or is one doomed to keep replacing bearings that may not last long?
Thanks
-Chris

 

I just had my car towed to Armory Nissan up here in Albany, NY. I was just driving my 98 Automatic when the car would just rolled to a stop. I would give it gas and the revs would just go up and the mph would as well but the tranny wouldn't move the car. When i go from D back into P it grinds and makes terrible noises. Only in P though. So i have these guys looking at it and letting me know what what the deal is for $90 an hour. They said that they might have to take the tranny off to look at it better. I really have no idea about this one here boys so i could really use your help. I'm thinking it could be flywheel but i really am not a mechanic. Any input would be great guys!