I get a slight humming sound, it's not loud. Are any of you getting a sound from front end. Also, clicking sound when wheel tirned fully to left at slow speeds, any suggestions. Thanks!

 

I get a slight humming sound too, but its coming from the rear after I turned the car off from driving. I'm guessing it has something to do with the exhaust piping? I don't know, does anyone get this?

 

The sound you reported may be coming from a worn left outer Constant Velocity joint.

The usual test for a bad Constant Velocity joint is to go to a quiet parking lot and drive the car slowly (3 mph) in tight right-hand (clockwise) circles, and then tight left-hand (counterclockwise) circles. Do this in a forward gear, and also in reverse. A bad joint will usually make distinct rhythmic clicking or snapping sounds. Snap, snap, snap!

 

A humming noise dependent on speed can also be caused by a worn wheel bearing or certain types of tire tread...

The clicking sounds like the CV joints that DBM has described. You should also look under your car, around the inside area of the wheel right around the lower strut mount. There should be an accordian looking boot. Check to make sure these aren't ripped, torn, or disintegrated. Also look for tell-tale signs of grease flung all over the place or on the inside of the wheel.

-V

 

Can the joint be worn while the boot looks fine? And what kind of repair cost can I expect? Thanks.

 

Yes, although that is unusual.

The ball-park price is $200 for a remanufactured axle. That price includes the axle (about $110) and the labor (about $90).

 

Thanks!

 

is this problem needed to be fixed ASAP or can it be held off? now since i read this thread, i recall my car doing the same, its been like this for about 3 weeks now. thanks

 

I get a humming sound/vibration too...but it's when I'm Blasting my Infinity Perfects ...man the maxima's doors are cheeply made. Looks like more dynomat for me

 

If your axle is already at the stage of making clicking and snapping sounds while negotiating tight turns, then the Constant Velocity joints must be replaced. You may defer the repair for a few weeks. The risk is that the joint may suffer catastrophic damage, stranding you at the roadside.

 

k, so i will be changing it very soon then. can this job be done by myself or should i take it to a shop? if i can do it, do you know how to and where i can get the parts?

 

A remanufactured axle is available from any auto parts store. The price is approximately US$110.

I truly can't say if you can do this yourself because you didn't give any information about your auto mechanics experience or tool collection. I will say that replacing an axle may be done by the intermediate home mechanic.

You will need:
- a manual to guide you (Chilton or Haynes will do)
- an assortment of ordinary hand tools including socket wrenches.
- a good floor jack and pair of sturdy jackstands.
- a socket wrench to fit the big nut on the outboard end of the axle.
- a tie rod end separator tool (on some cars).
- a catch pan for draining the transaxle.
- lots of absorbent rags or paper towels.

An inexpensive "pickle fork" tie rod separator will work, but it may tear the rubber tie-rod boot. There is also an expensive tie rod end tool (it looks like a gear puller) which won't damage the boot. Some parts suppliers offer a no-charge loan of special tools when you buy the parts from them. Ask about that.

Towards the end of the job you will install the large nut on the end of the axle. The torque spec for this nut is somewhere around 200 foot-lbs. If you don't have a torque wrench, that's okay. Just make it as tight as you can, and that's tight enough.

The passenger side half-shaft is a bit more work than the driver's side since it has a support bearing and support bracket. However, removing the driver's side axle from an automatic transmission may require that you first remove the passenger side axle. The manual gives further details.

If this is the first time you've done this job, allow four hours. The experienced professional can do it in much less time.

 

thanks DBM, i plan on getting a Chilton or Haynes manual (do you suggest either one?) after work today. i will look over it and probably attempt it this weekend with some help. by the way, do you know why this problem occurs? o and will rough driving affect this problem majorly? i was planning on going to the drag strip tomorrow evening. thanks

 

Haynes is the better of the aftermarket repair manuals, though both books have their own strengths and weaknesses.

The common cause of CV joint failure is a torn boot which allows grease to escape and grit to enter. Even if the boot is perfect a joint will wear out sooner or later, just the same as any moving part. Hard driving accelerates wear on every part of the drivetrain, CV joints included.