Ciucca

The F***ing Battery/Brake light came on Sunday while driving my mom to the train station. This car has already had 2 alternators replaced I paid the first time I was too lazy to do it during a chilly march last year. I had it replaced under shop warranty 2 months ago and now it is dying again! I wonder if the shop gets their alternators from pep boys or autozone (low quality crap, they charge a lot for).

This time I'm going to replace it myself, I don't want to pay the 1.7 hour labor charge plus I cannot trust that the alternator the shop gets is not crap. I would be willing to spend for a brand new one not rebuilt. Anyone have an idea if the Bosch or Hitachi from Rockauto are good? Their web site has it listed as new not rebuilt.

After turning the car off I opened the hood and pushed on the alt. connector, is it possible for the wiring harness to have a loose connection? Is this a common problem? Since I did this the problem has not returned in the past 3 days (knock on wood).

I have a battery and alternator tester and they both check out ok, but I remember this being an intermittent problem in the past before the alt died for good.

Finally, when/if I replace it can it be done without removing the radiator fans and shroud? I'm positive the shop did not remove it, you can tell its never been out of the car.

Whitemax

I got the 2 for my two maximas from NAPA. Both Bosch. Never had any problems with them afterwards.
Understand though that its a bish to install on our cars. If you havent done it before, plan on anywhere from 3 to 6 hours, depending on any complications youre first time doing it......
You dont have to remove the radiator. Jack the right side up, remove the tire, remove the spash sheild, remove the bolts on the AC compressor, the coolant line, then have fun removing the back bolt by the headers. Fight and wiggle to get it out of place, then reverse the fun to put the new one in, and fight to get the damn back bolt in.

Ciucca

Thanks for the advice.

One question; Which coolant line needs to be removed? I assume the overflow tank?

BluFlame

iTrader: (2)

I replaced two alts in 3 months before realizing starter was shorting out, so replaced starter and it's been great ever since.
You dont have to remove any coolant line, just take off a/c comp and it will be clear to you.

XJinCT

iTrader: (3)

if youve had 2 alternators replaced in a short time period...i would run a charge/start diagnostic on it to see why it keeps burning them out, it might be charging too high or too low, i doubt the alternators **** the bed that quickly. the alternators have a warranty and you should get a new one free of charge. also, the bosch alternators that pepboys/autozone use arent bad at all. also, does your front valve cover or timing cover leak oil? a lot of 4th gens that come in for service go through alternators like nothing because of oil leaks that leak onto the alternator. oh and no coolant hose needs to be removed...you drop the a/c compressor and move it to the side...fairly simple task.

Whitemax

Ive removed the top coolant line just for easier access, although you dont HAVE to do it.

Ciucca

Thanks for all the good advice.

"BluFlame" How did you figure out the starter was shorting out the Alternator?

"XJinct" How do you do a charge/start diagnostic? I have a battery voltmeter tester that shows that the battery is charged/good with the engine off, and shows current draw when the engine is running. When the bat/alt lights are off it shows the battery as "good" and the volts running of 14.1, it also keeps a history of what it drops to during cranking, which is 12.6 volts. Of course when the lights are on the current during idle drops to ~11.6 volts.

The only place I see some oil is in the well of the oil filler cap. I think that maybe the gasket on it is not making a tight seal. Although I never see it go beyond that point.

maxima985spd

the only hard part about changing an alternator is putting it back in. everything else is VERY easy.

XJinCT

iTrader: (3)

charge/start would have to be performed at a shop...pepboys does a charge/start diag for 20 bucks and it takes like 15 minutes...JUST MAKE SURE YOU ASK FOR A PRINTOUT so you can look at the results yourself. it will tell you voltage under load, at idle, your cranking amps, and the drop voltage when your battery has a strain on it.

also, 12.6 cranking volts is VERY good.

its cheap and just a better thing to do than keep shelling out cash for alternators.

BluFlame

iTrader: (2)

I removed the starter and took it to autozone for testing, they did a load testing. It is very easy to remove starter, two bolts.

Maximus_95

iTrader: (8)

Bosch is really good, go with that and i believe if you buy it from pepboys, they have a lifetime warranty on them.... Good luck!

TunerMaxima3000

iTrader: (4)

I got a shop to build an alty to 180A for mine and install it. I didnt feel like doin it, I've done enough MX-6 altenators and shyt, those are NOT fun. But have a hard drawing stereo and havent had any problems in 7 months. I would reccomend a good build up over anything, as long as its a good shop, and they have the 130 amp stock core not the average maxima 110 alty

brokedownmax

iTrader: (1)

check its connections, have it bench tested