I'm thinking about getting a 4th gen Maxima but am unsure about what year to look for. I've heard that the 99s were the most problematic, is that true? Do the problems in the 99s outweigh the pros like the security chip in the key, new HU, and traction control? Also, are the modified CA emissions for 99s bad? My guess is decreased performance and the pre-cats could be a problem. Am I correct? I'm not sure how big of a problem the pre-cats are on this car but I know a lot of Nissans have problems with them. Anyway, my question is which model year was the most reliable and also a list of problems and short explanations for each year. I really would like a nice 99 mainly because of the traction control but if their problems are so major I can always get a 98...

 

i dont know much about the 99's but i have a 98 and it has given me no problems runs like a dream the only issue i ran into was an electrical problem but nissan is known for being faulty electrically

 

Get whatever you want. IMO, 99's were the most problematic of the 4th gens. But you can always fix the problems quite easily so that you can have your 99, which seems what you're set -on. I would get a 97 personally. The fuel gauge was reversed in 98, the odometer went digital in 98 as well, and the 99 had the option of an SEL. But I'm sure you knew that.

 

99s have the coil problem, and they're the most "different" which makes them harder to upgrade (ypipe, ecu, etc).

97s and 98s aren't a lot different. You'll be fine with either, really.

 

Only difference of the 99's are the cali spec cats, you can easily get around that.

 

Are the new cats bad? Are they known to do any harm like they are in other Nissan cars? Any decrease in performance because of them? I think the fuel gauge being reversed is neither bad or good, just however you prefer it right? I think a digi odo is actually better because it's less likely to have been screwed with...I think. What exactly is the coil problem, I here it mentioned a lot.

I'm set on getting the best deal for my money and traction control is a really nice feature but if it comes with lots of problems along side I'd rather live without it. But as I've read here, all the 4th gens are pretty much bullet prood.

 

Yeah, it's probably been 2-3 months since the last time we did this thread.

'98 Best looking, re-designed climate, red needles, mirror image fuel and temp.

97+ in general have the rattle fixes and other random things, they are fatter though

 

Wrong. EGR is different, ECU is different, swirl valves, chipped key, etc.


Go for the car with the best records, for the best price.

 

Fuel gauge and odometer too..

Oh yeah that was in 98

This isn't a comparison thread. Most people start stating differences. From normal reading comprehension, it's clear he wants a 99, so get a 99, fix all the small problems, and you're done.

 

1998

/thread

 

^Reasons?

Yeah, I want a 99 for the T/C but other than that I see no difference. I am aware of the year to year differences because it says them in the FAQ thread, I'm wondering about the year to year problems. Questions from my previous post are still out their.

Sorry for the 2-3month ago repost, search didn't find anything...

 

98 was a great year

 

Still no reasons though...

 

Then get a 99 then mate. The 4th gens started in 96 but reckon you should get the most recent, usually (this is opinion) they have the bugs of a model ironed out just before they change models, like when they went to the A33 or what you call the 5th gen in early 2000.

Yeah, it has traction control and an immobiliser with the alarm and that's about it extra.

 

Yeah the 99 has problems with coils, they have the immobiliser(which i find useless), and the exhuast is different (cali spec/fed spec)

But its your choice

 

I still don't know what the coil problem is and is the cali spec stuff bad good or no difference? Are the new cats bad? Any decrease in performance because of them?

 

Yes.

Depends on the individual, i.e it's up to you to decide. IMO, those aren't very special upgrades,and would rather not have to replace all of the problems that will likely arise, as well as the small differences such as KS replacement, ECU code checking.

Good for environment.

It's a VQ, not a QR. A problem with heat could damage them, and in affect, killing the engine. Heat might be caused from a bad MAF, so keep an eye on maintenance which is something you should be doing anyway since this car will be over 8 years old, no matter what year you get.

The listed problems and short descriptions can be found in this very thread. All A32's will have the normal wear and tear, and we cannot really say which is the most reliable, but one thing is for sure, 99 wouldn't have my vote for most reliable.

I said earlier, problems aren't major, but a lot of 'little' things.

 

Wow, great post, thanks!

What is the problem that arises with the coils?

 

I am glad to say that I own a 99 cali spec...and other than a single code (0420) which seems to have an unknown solution (either cat or 02 sensor)...I have driven 3000 problem-free miles. Yeah weve got all that extra emission crap but, look at it this way...we are cleaner and better on the environment. When I was shopping for my 4th gen (97-99) I looked at and drove both the 97 and 99 (98 had already sold) I really liked the clean look in the 99 and it seemed as tho the seats were more comfortable (probably just my opinion). I could go on for days.....

What I am getting at is that it does not really matter what year you get. If you want a 99 get a 99. These cars are extremely reliable *knock on wood* and will last you forever if you keep up with regular maintainence.

I got a 99 simply because it was the only black on black 4th gen with every single factory option that I had found in the greater Boston area after 4 months of looking. I have had no regrets. Great car!

 

Nissan decided to change the manufacturer of the ignition coils in 99 when they updated the car (99s resemble a 5th gen more than a 4th). Well these were not very good quality and have been notorious to failing. However if you buy the car with 100K+ or records showing that the coils have been changed then it should not pose a problem.

A bad coil will cause a severe misfire and you will definitely be able to tell that a coil has gone bad. You can get a coil for about $90 each...and usually it is only one that fails. You can simply just figure out which coil is bad and replace it yourself.

 

$90? That's it? Wow, and here I was thinking it would be some actual costly problem! How hard is it to replace?

I just want to see if I got this straight, the cali spec stuff DOES NOT hurt performance and DOES NOT decrease reliability, correct? Any other problems besides coils with the 99?

I'm sorry for being so repetitive but I really want to know this car before I buy it.

 

Its about $90 per coil (6 coils) so about $540 for all 6 new coils. They are not very hard to change...require about as much effort as changing the spark plugs. However, most of the time when the coils fail...it is only one or two so you narrow it down and replace the bad ones.

The cali spec does affect performance...but its butt dyno numbers. The precat in the header and the different cat do not change performance greatly maybe 5 hp...about 2 hp at the wheels...again butt dyno. If you get an aftermarket y-pipe ($200 shipped from warpspeed) you can easily add 15-20 hp making it faster than a fed spec max. It does not decrease reliablility...just that there is 4 02 sensors instead of the 3 that the other 4th gens have.

Other than that there are no real problems with the 99s. People like to pick on them because they are really the only year with a problem on the 4th gens and that is the coils. I noticed you are from Wisconsin....and you may not even have cali specs out there. It was not a standard emissions thing in 99...and there were fed and cali spec 99s. Just pop the hood and look at the front header....if there is a big aluminum plate over it its a cali spec.

 

Electronically, yes.
I've seen a few that more than one goes out at once. My 95 has only had one fail
You know those stickys you mentioned earlier The write up is close by there. Pick up a Haynes manual, good money spent, has helped me through a whole lot of things.



Based on the limited 99 dynos we have, it doesn't seem to.

Not many problems that are 99 specific.

99 specific: Swirl valves, which affect knock sensor changing. BUT, you should remove the IM to change the KS anyhow in order to torque it back to factory spec. Also, the ECU reset is a little different due to the size of the reset screw, but I vaguely remember this being mentioned already.

 

So the cali spec stuff doesn't even affect me? Do WI 99s still have 4 o2 sensors or 3 like the other 4th gens?

 

99 all the way. Outside temperature display. Nuff said.
Oh, and the rare Lakeshore Blue color

 

Some 99s are federal spec and some are cali spec. ALL cali specs have 4 02 sensors and ALL feds have 3 02 sensors. You can figure out if its a cali or fed by

1. Popping the hood and reading the sticker on the underside of the hood.
2. Looking at the front header.

 

But unless my car came from cali, it will be fed spec right?

 

Yeah, I like all the little stuff that was added with 99. I want black on black BTW...

 

If looking for a car, any car, no matter where it's from/at, ask it's spec. Nothing is 100% so always ask.

 

my 98 has been modded to do that for a price of probaly $6 included with tax and a nice drill bit.

 

Ok, well based on all your help, I've decided to look for a 99 because it has a bunch of additions that I like, it's 1 yr newer which means 1yr less wear and tear, and I would expect some maintenance on any 8yr old car, $90 isn't too bad at all if coils are the only problem IMO. Thanks for all the help guys and look out for my next (and I'm pretty sure last) major noob decision thread, I'll post it up tomorrow. Thanks again to all that helped!

 

i have a 99 sel.. it has some quirks, but nothing to get bent over about..

mine is have cali half fed.. ftw! best of both worlds..

 

no sel no care...!

 

What are the quirks you have experienced with your 99?

 

couple bad coils.. and thats it basically.. the rest is maintanance.. and mods..

i have 168k and counting.. drive this bish like a bat outta hell..

 

My 96 has given me quite a bit more trouble than I would have liked, and shes going up for sale this weekend or next week because I feel she loves me no more. I bought her with about 60k two years ago and now at 93k.. In this time period, she left me stranded because the starter quit without notice, oil pressure sensor, radiator cracked, alternator died, two brake jobs, transmission slips more and more, and rattles galore. I think she was a lemon as I am her 5th owner. So I say just dont get a 96!

 

i've got a 1999... coming up on 151k, no problems at all. Just replaced a strut but I just bought KYB AGX's so.. I would say go with a 99... its the newest. If I didn't have a 99 I'd buy a 1998.

 

Rear Center shoulder seat belt nuff said haha

I heard that they didn't switch the coil manufacturer till the 99.5 SEL's?

Do the fed spec after market y-pipes fit the 99's just as they would the 95-98's?

 

IBTMFL!! There is a bazillion page thread on this same topic, use the damn search function n00b..

 

its alright dont get upset -- i have a 97 its not bad, maintenance is key -- get the car thats going for a good price, mileage in these japanese sedans dont really matter.

as far as the year 98-99 -- cant beat the digital odometer haha