View Poll Results: N/A or N20
Go all out All Motor
46
44.23%
Keep N20 - do a small shot like 50/75
24
23.08%
Keep N20 - do a bigger shot wussy
8
7.69%
Sell N20 kit, save money for something else
26
25.00%
Voters: 104. You may not vote on this poll
opinions: N/A or N20
#1
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opinions: N/A or N20
Im hoping everyone can give me some opinions here. I have a dilema and not sure which way to go and with spring here Id like to make up my mind sooner than later.
My maxima (doodfdood's old car) is a 95 SE 5 speed, has a 2001 DE-K motor swap (so it has the 00VI already), Cattman Y pipe, magnaflow Cat, Just swapped the WAI for a CAI and Ported the TB, Unortodox crank pully, weight reduction is only:bare trunk, CF hood,...I think thats it as far as anything that would make it faster right now.
I just picked up some OBX headers and am planning on doing a custom full cat back (with a cut out before the cat for the track) when I install the headers. I also just mounted the apexi neo and will be installing and tuning that soon as well.
I have a single nozzle NX kit set up from my old car, w/ some goodies (purge, heater, blanket, better brackets) that I was thinking of throwing on here...maybe a 50 or 75 shot.
But the more I read and from what I know, Im not sure if I really want to sacrifice any N/A performance to the lesser richer tuning I will probably do If I run N20 and run colder spark plugs from which certian maximas dont seem to like too much N/A...(or are these the exceptions) Guess I could always run a richer fuel jet and still tune pretty lean on the NEO but I dunno...
Should I do the N20? Or should I sell the kit and buy something else for N/A...like a EU ultimate maybe and ditch the Neo? Or neither, stay N/A just tune more agressivley, try to bump up the timing and start saving for a LSDtranny/or rebuild tranny or 3.5 swap ?
My maxima (doodfdood's old car) is a 95 SE 5 speed, has a 2001 DE-K motor swap (so it has the 00VI already), Cattman Y pipe, magnaflow Cat, Just swapped the WAI for a CAI and Ported the TB, Unortodox crank pully, weight reduction is only:bare trunk, CF hood,...I think thats it as far as anything that would make it faster right now.
I just picked up some OBX headers and am planning on doing a custom full cat back (with a cut out before the cat for the track) when I install the headers. I also just mounted the apexi neo and will be installing and tuning that soon as well.
I have a single nozzle NX kit set up from my old car, w/ some goodies (purge, heater, blanket, better brackets) that I was thinking of throwing on here...maybe a 50 or 75 shot.
But the more I read and from what I know, Im not sure if I really want to sacrifice any N/A performance to the lesser richer tuning I will probably do If I run N20 and run colder spark plugs from which certian maximas dont seem to like too much N/A...(or are these the exceptions) Guess I could always run a richer fuel jet and still tune pretty lean on the NEO but I dunno...
Should I do the N20? Or should I sell the kit and buy something else for N/A...like a EU ultimate maybe and ditch the Neo? Or neither, stay N/A just tune more agressivley, try to bump up the timing and start saving for a LSDtranny/or rebuild tranny or 3.5 swap ?
#2
Originally Posted by MikeSDA
Should I do the N20? Or should I sell the kit and buy something else for N/A...like a EU ultimate and ditch the Neo? Or neither, stay N/A just tune more agressivley, try to bump up the timing and start saving for a LSDtranny/or rebuild tranny & 3.5 swap
#4
Are there not flip switches for Maxima's? With only a 50-75 shot, I can't imagine why you'd need to run the car richer. Surely the stock computer could compensate for that small of a shot on its own while running a normal N/A tune. Assuming it's a dry shot.
#5
yea a wet shot is the bast way to go along with colder plugs you should be able to run good on 50-75 shot wet kits but a proper scan before and during is need for keeping it together over time and if youre serious about n20 why worry about your n/a tune?
#7
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Originally Posted by 97Max4Me
Are there not flip switches for Maxima's? With only a 50-75 shot, I can't imagine why you'd need to run the car richer. Surely the stock computer could compensate for that small of a shot on its own while running a normal N/A tune. Assuming it's a dry shot.
Im not saying it needs to be ran richer, but If I tune for N/A Im going to aim for about 13.5 A/F ratio. I wont lean it out that much if Im going to run N20. The compromise is maybe to run a richer fuel jet on the N20 and still have the leaner tune.
The neo has 2 maps as well as I guess the EU does too. But I guess I cant see myself getting revved on at a stop light by a mustang or something, and trying to switch maps, arm the N20, open the bottle, etc.. At the strip sure no problem, but I cant see it on the street....just being realistic w/ myself. Or does the EU have an input where it will automatically switch to the other fuel map...that would be perfect
I worry about my N/A tune because 98% of the time thats how I will be driving it. Not spraying.
My only other thought is if I could get away with stock heat range plugs and the larger fuel jet...anyone do it before?
#9
By flip switch, I meant different fuel maps, that might have confused you.
The only way I could see it activating a different tune automatically would be to wire everything into your nitrous activation switch. I'm not that familiar with the seperate tunes and programs, but I'd imagine you could wire everything into your activation switch so when you activate the kit, the car switches tunes. Just pulling up to a light and racing someone prob isn't the best idea with a wet kit. You want to make sure the bottle pressure is up before spraying, whereas a dry kit it wouldn't matter as much.
The only way I could see it activating a different tune automatically would be to wire everything into your nitrous activation switch. I'm not that familiar with the seperate tunes and programs, but I'd imagine you could wire everything into your activation switch so when you activate the kit, the car switches tunes. Just pulling up to a light and racing someone prob isn't the best idea with a wet kit. You want to make sure the bottle pressure is up before spraying, whereas a dry kit it wouldn't matter as much.
#10
Nitrous is like a hot chick with STDs. You know you want to hit but you're afraid of the consequences.
with that being said Nitrous is VERY fun and a wet kit will amount to gobs of torque.
with that being said Nitrous is VERY fun and a wet kit will amount to gobs of torque.
#12
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Originally Posted by 97Max4Me
By flip switch, I meant different fuel maps, that might have confused you.
The only way I could see it activating a different tune automatically would be to wire everything into your nitrous activation switch. I'm not that familiar with the seperate tunes and programs, but I'd imagine you could wire everything into your activation switch so when you activate the kit, the car switches tunes. Just pulling up to a light and racing someone prob isn't the best idea with a wet kit. You want to make sure the bottle pressure is up before spraying, whereas a dry kit it wouldn't matter as much.
The only way I could see it activating a different tune automatically would be to wire everything into your nitrous activation switch. I'm not that familiar with the seperate tunes and programs, but I'd imagine you could wire everything into your activation switch so when you activate the kit, the car switches tunes. Just pulling up to a light and racing someone prob isn't the best idea with a wet kit. You want to make sure the bottle pressure is up before spraying, whereas a dry kit it wouldn't matter as much.
I dont want to sound like some ricer who races anyone, but theres a fair share of mustang/camaro/vette/crotchrocket drivers around here that love to crap on anything that isnt just like what they are driving. I like to prove them otherwise if the chance comes up.
The bottle heater i have has an automatic thermostat so if it was a decent day out I would already have it on so no worrys on the bottle pressure. Plus it can be ran on lower pressure, it just will not perform 100% and may bog from the extra fuel
SOo my next question: has anyone ran stock heat range plugs with a 50 shot?
#13
Originally Posted by MikeSDA
yeah thats a thought. Some one who really knows the EU could probably awnser that. I know for a fact the Neo or any safc will not do that.
I dont want to sound like some ricer who races anyone, but theres a fair share of mustang/camaro/vette/crotchrocket drivers around here that love to crap on anything that isnt just like what they are driving. I like to prove them otherwise if the chance comes up.
The bottle heater i have has an automatic thermostat so if it was a decent day out I would already have it on so no worrys on the bottle pressure. Plus it can be ran on lower pressure, it just will not perform 100% and may bog from the extra fuel
SOo my next question: has anyone ran stock heat range plugs with a 50 shot?
I dont want to sound like some ricer who races anyone, but theres a fair share of mustang/camaro/vette/crotchrocket drivers around here that love to crap on anything that isnt just like what they are driving. I like to prove them otherwise if the chance comes up.
The bottle heater i have has an automatic thermostat so if it was a decent day out I would already have it on so no worrys on the bottle pressure. Plus it can be ran on lower pressure, it just will not perform 100% and may bog from the extra fuel
SOo my next question: has anyone ran stock heat range plugs with a 50 shot?
I've run stock platinums on a 75 shot. it definitely ran better on some one step colder plugs. I plan on doing another nitrous setup on my car later this year. but i'm probably gonna go with a 100 or 125 shot.
#15
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Originally Posted by Jason R
I've run stock platinums on a 75 shot. it definitely ran better on some one step colder plugs. I plan on doing another nitrous setup on my car later this year. but i'm probably gonna go with a 100 or 125 shot.
Thansk for the input! Do the colder plugs really effect N/A performance or have I just read some blown out of proportion threads on here? Thats my only concern, I dont see why it would, and on my past cars it hasnt. Im pretty confident I can tune the shot to run richer if I N/A tune, but the plugs threads scare me!
Thoughts?????
#16
Originally Posted by MikeSDA
Thansk for the input! Do the colder plugs really effect N/A performance or have I just read some blown out of proportion threads on here? Thats my only concern, I dont see why it would, and on my past cars it hasnt. Im pretty confident I can tune the shot to run richer if I N/A tune, but the plugs threads scare me!
Thoughts?????
Thoughts?????
But the more I read and from what I know, Im not sure if I really want to sacrifice any N/A performance to the lesser richer tuning I will probably do If I run N20 and run colder spark plugs from which certian maximas dont seem to like too much N/A...(or are these the exceptions) Guess I could always run a richer fuel jet and still tune pretty lean on the NEO but I dunno...
#19
Originally Posted by MikeSDA
Im hoping everyone can give me some opinions here. I have a dilema and not sure which way to go and with spring here Id like to make up my mind sooner than later.
My maxima (doodfdood's old car) is a 95 SE 5 speed, has a 2001 DE-K motor swap (so it has the 00VI already), Cattman Y pipe, magnaflow Cat, Just swapped the WAI for a CAI and Ported the TB, Unortodox crank pully, weight reduction is only:bare trunk, CF hood,...I think thats it as far as anything that would make it faster right now.
I just picked up some OBX headers and am planning on doing a custom full cat back (with a cut out before the cat for the track) when I install the headers. I also just mounted the apexi neo and will be installing and tuning that soon as well.
I have a single nozzle NX kit set up from my old car, w/ some goodies (purge, heater, blanket, better brackets) that I was thinking of throwing on here...maybe a 50 or 75 shot.
But the more I read and from what I know, Im not sure if I really want to sacrifice any N/A performance to the lesser richer tuning I will probably do If I run N20 and run colder spark plugs from which certian maximas dont seem to like too much N/A...(or are these the exceptions) Guess I could always run a richer fuel jet and still tune pretty lean on the NEO but I dunno...
Should I do the N20? Or should I sell the kit and buy something else for N/A...like a EU ultimate maybe and ditch the Neo? Or neither, stay N/A just tune more agressivley, try to bump up the timing and start saving for a LSDtranny/or rebuild tranny or 3.5 swap ?
My maxima (doodfdood's old car) is a 95 SE 5 speed, has a 2001 DE-K motor swap (so it has the 00VI already), Cattman Y pipe, magnaflow Cat, Just swapped the WAI for a CAI and Ported the TB, Unortodox crank pully, weight reduction is only:bare trunk, CF hood,...I think thats it as far as anything that would make it faster right now.
I just picked up some OBX headers and am planning on doing a custom full cat back (with a cut out before the cat for the track) when I install the headers. I also just mounted the apexi neo and will be installing and tuning that soon as well.
I have a single nozzle NX kit set up from my old car, w/ some goodies (purge, heater, blanket, better brackets) that I was thinking of throwing on here...maybe a 50 or 75 shot.
But the more I read and from what I know, Im not sure if I really want to sacrifice any N/A performance to the lesser richer tuning I will probably do If I run N20 and run colder spark plugs from which certian maximas dont seem to like too much N/A...(or are these the exceptions) Guess I could always run a richer fuel jet and still tune pretty lean on the NEO but I dunno...
Should I do the N20? Or should I sell the kit and buy something else for N/A...like a EU ultimate maybe and ditch the Neo? Or neither, stay N/A just tune more agressivley, try to bump up the timing and start saving for a LSDtranny/or rebuild tranny or 3.5 swap ?
Have you tried adjusting the Flux Capacitor?
*edit* Don't forget to check your muffler bearings as well.
#20
Nitrous is by far the quick way to gain power, but as you said, you won't be set for daily N/A street driving. That's where my suggestion comes in...do the 3.5 swap and outfit the car with some serious traction. That's my plan when this 3.0 starts to show any sign of wear.
#23
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thanks for all the input guys
What Im thinking for this season is: keep the neo (I already installed it anyways) tune for N/A, run a slightly richer 50 shot..maybe 75, install the headers and make the catback
After this season, sell the N20 and neo, and do a semi-built 3.5 w/ the EU
Living near buffalo can has its advantages like long drawn out winter projects
What Im thinking for this season is: keep the neo (I already installed it anyways) tune for N/A, run a slightly richer 50 shot..maybe 75, install the headers and make the catback
After this season, sell the N20 and neo, and do a semi-built 3.5 w/ the EU
Living near buffalo can has its advantages like long drawn out winter projects
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