im getting this EVAP Canister leakage as well as knock sensor codes. i took the car to 2 mechanics for EVAP leakage and both send me off to the stealership. no way in hell will i lube up and prepare myself for that $hit.... anybody have any clues on how to find out where its leaking from? have you had this problem, if so what happend?

piece of $hit didnt throw a code for 2 years and now its making up for it when money is tight.

 

i got an evap code once as well. i was also told to bench test the canister vent control valve. and it tested good. i checked all evap hoses for leaks/clogs and such couldnt find anything. so i just ponied up the $120 and replaced the valve. code never came back.

i checked obd-codes.com for your specific code, and it didnt come back with anything...even for other makes. so i cant say for sure. if i were you i would inspect all the hoses around the evap canistor for cracks, holes, and to see if theyre clogged. remember that the hole can be tiny and still set off a CEL (i think like .040" or something) so have good lighting and even better eyes. if you dont find anything, ide say its a safe bet that the VCV will fix your problem.

and and if you dont know already, the evap canister is just under the rear bumper on the passengers side. and the VCV is the valve on the side towards the wheel, its held on by 2 screws and has maybe 2 hoses and an electrical connector going to it.

edit- what was the exact readout from the scan tool? im wondering why it says possible causes could be injectors, intake leak, etc but then tells you to check the evap system?

edit #2- P0114 Intake Air Temperature Circuit Intermittent.

this to me sounds more like a maf problem or an intake leak. ide say before looking at anything that has to do with the evap system, poke around in the engine bay. look for anything that may allow false air to enter the intake past the maf. it could even be a faulty IAT sensor.

when you say 'now its making up for it' you really mean it. this code sucks. many possibilies. will take time to figure out the problem.

 

well the mechanic hooked the OBD2 to it and it read "EVAP Caniser- Small Leak"

 

ok heres what you do...get a new gas cap from pep boys or something like for 8 bucks...put that on...clear the code...if your lucky the leak is from there...

if the code comes back, the leak is from somewhere else and you need to take it to a dealer to get it 'smoke' tested...or if you can find a shop to do it for you...i can do it...but youre in california so no go on that one.

hey replacing the gas cap is the cheapest solution and most common and if its not that youre only out 8 bucks. good luck.

 

ill try that but the mechanic already tested the gas cap and it was good. thx

 

alright well then in that case, ide say to follow what i said above about checking the evap system. you can try the gas cap...i doubt its that though. i dont know about it being the 'most common problem' but it deffinatly is a possibility.

 

yea than dont worry with the gas cap. check the hoses for clogs/cracks/holes. if they check out good, ide say replace the valve. no need to have the mechanic do it either. it literally took me a screw driver, 5 minutes, and some dirt on my back to do. rather than a mechanic charge me an hours labor for a 5 min job.

 

If you have EVAP Canister leakage don't you smell gas fumes?

 

no. not always. i didnt when i had an evap code.

 

I've got the same code. 2 weeks ago, I hit the evap canister with a small hammer and guess what... the light went off. I didn't hit it too hard as I was afraid of breaking it. I couldn't believe it. 3 Days later, the light came back on. I'm booked for an EVAP cleaning but it's not going in for that until next week.
I've never done an evap system cleaning, so I'm kinda hoping that takes care of the problem.
I'll let you know.