Okay guys, When I'm at a light in drive my 97' GXE is sort of "bucking", like if it's shifting in and out of gear. Not too harsh but noticable and it doe snot seem to do it when the A/C is off, only when it's on. I want to see if I can find out what this is because if it's a tranny problem then I have 90 days to take it back to the dealer. I had a 1990 GXE that was doing the same thing and I ended up replacing the tranny so I really need to know. I sort of think that it might be an alternator problem because it only seems to do it when the A/C is on, but I'm not too sure. Also, every once in a while it cranks a while before it starts and other times it starts right up. On my old 90' Maxima we had sort of the same issue but it's been a long time so I'm not sure if I rememeber correctly. I just wanted to find out if there were any known issues like this. The car has 56,000 miles on it and is clean as a bell and has all the records so I would really be surprised if it was something major but if there is, I'm going to take it back. I bought it at a little dealer so they don't have a service dept. so I can't take it there. But, I just wanted to see what you guys had to say before I take it to the Nissan dealer, Thanks Fellas.

 

If you can repeat the problem, bring it back to the dealer and see what they repair. The challenge for you is being able to repeat the problem while you are at the dealership.

 

Any check engine light? Try pulling a code any way and maybe you will find something out.

 

No, no CEL. I can recreate the problem but My whole thing is that if it's something major then I want to take the car back. Also, I don't want the dealer to charge me $80.00 for a diagnostic test and tell me that I need a new alternator or battery, etc.. $80.00 will pay for a battery or a alternator.

 

Even if you know the problem, every shop will still charge a diagnostic fee. You can't expect a shop to take a customers car and fix it according to what the customer says is broken. They have to make sure it needs to be replaced before doing so.

If you are still under warranty, I would get it done that way. There is no diagnostic charge if it's under warranty.

 

No if I just take it in and tell them to fix it, they won't charge me a diagnostic fee. My point is that I plan on fixing it myself. Why pay $80.00 to the dealer to find what the problem is, if I can find out here? I have saved mucho denero on www.honda-acura.net fixing problems on my Civic. Example: My car would not start but it would crank. The battery, starter, and alternator were good. I called the dealer and the service guy told me that it was tell tale sign that the distributer was going out and that they only last about 100-150K Miles. So I figure I'm about to spend $300.00 - $400.00 at the dealer getting my distributer replaced or about $200.00 doing it myself. So, I ask around on the board and this guy who is a honda tech replies and tells me that it's definately the ignition coil because he has seen this exact problem a hundred times. He told if the dist. was going out then there would have been a grinding noise. So, I take is word for it and replace the coil and it worked like a charm. I'm a cheap bastard, if I can find a way to save money and fix it myself then I will.

 

Every Nissan dealer, large or small, has a service department.

 

The air conditioner compressor turns on and off during normal operation. Perhaps that's what you are feeling, and that's why you notice it only when the A/C is operating.

 

No because if its in nuetral or p[ark with the A/C on it does not do it. I just went to Autozone and had the battery checked and it checked out fine. The only problem is that it's a no name battery and it is physically too small but it does fine with a load and without a load. So, if it only does it when the car is in and the A/C is on then it's seems to me that it's a load problem. So, I'm going to do a full tune-up and if that does not fix it then I will replaxe the battery.

 

Have you looked at the engine bay while someone else is in the car, with the brake on, in drive? It might help to do this...you might be able to see whether its your actual engine that is lurching (faulty mount?) or maybe one of your belts (AC/steering?) keeps coming off a pulley partially. If you look at it, and everything seems to be stable under the hood, I would tend to think its a problem with the drivetrain. I'm not very familiar with automatic transmissions...anyone know what the symptoms would be if you somehow got air in the fluid section of the torque converter?

 

Worn/faulty plugs will cause "bucking". It has happened on my 85 Celica and a tune up did do the trick. I however believe either the battery is either good or bad and not somewhere in between. If it goes bad, the car will be more likely to quit alltogether rather than buck.