Sounds like my CV joints are bad. Click when I turn. I've seen some kits on ebay. Is this all I need to fix it? Is it hard to do?

 

If you're going to do that, you might as well just replace the axles. Buy some from where ever you want, just make sure they are new, most all carry lifetime warranties.

 

If you have an O'riely Auto Parts ... I don't recomend them. I used them for half shafts on my 91 Max and ended up having to do the job again in 6 months time. They are just not remanned as well as other places, or maybe I just got a bad set. Anyway ... I would look to do the whole shaft (inner and outer joints) it'll save you time and money in the long run. Cheers mate!

 

If your axles are clicking, definitely replace them. By now they have dirt and particles in the joints so it'd be a waste of time to only replace the boots

 

If the axle is clicking you need to have it replaced ASAP. That kit only fixes the boot, you'll still be driving with a busted axle.

 

It's not an ASAP thing...you can drive on bad CV joints for quite a while. Safety-wise CV joints don't matter, the problem arises when you go to drive your car, hit the gas, and the CV joints cease to be joints, meaning the axle spins but it's not connected to the wheel.
I suppose you could over-rev your engine, but CV joints themselves aren't going to do anything other than annoy you for potentially quite a while.

 

I've heard that the joints freespin within 5,000 miles of starting to click.

This is a bad thing when the joints finally do "cease to be joints" in the middle of traffic, and as you're trying to figure out why your car is driving with only one wheel, a shredded joint bearing "grabs" and launches your car forward into the guy you're following.

 

no way, I drove at least 2 auto-x's and over a year and 12000miles on at least one bad CV joint. That crap is what mechanics tell you to scare you, ie "you have to do that ASAP, it's a safety issue" well if it's been clicking, and the clicking is getting riduculouse...maybe..if it just started clicking, or isn't clicking that bad whatever.

I made at least 6 round trips of 600 miles with both joints clicking. I got sort of concerned before one of the trips and stuffed some axle grease into the joints and wrapped it with...yep...duct tape.....

 

That probably sounds like a better idea. I found this on ebay.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/95-96...spagenameZWD1V

Anyone have any experience with this manufacturer or can tell me if they think it's a good deal?

Also, how difficult is it to do oneself? I'm a moderately skilled mechanic, but aside from a custom cai and brake jobs, haven't undertaken anything too big with the maxima. Is it something I can find in the chilton or haynes books?

Thanks for the help and advice.

 

I have no idea about the manufacturer, but doing to job can be found in either book. The mistake that EVERYONE seems to make (including me) is that they don't "click" the driver's side axle in on the first try (or they think it's in) and waste a bunch of tranny fluid.

go to the HOW-TO section, there's some good write ups you can find there.

 

Buy them from ebay. I bought mine from ebay for about $60 a pop. took me 3 hours to install but it was well worth saving like $100 a pop.

Once you take the rotor our it's very easy.. Just make sure you don't damage the oil pan.

 

I'm guessing your meaning to say "take the rotor out" but what are you taking about? And how would you damage the oil pan?

 

I just replaced my driver side axle last week, If you've done a brake job you can certainly do this IMO. I actually thought this install was easier than the brakes. I'm sure it varies a bit car to car as I had no problems getting my old axle out and the new one in. I was very worried about getting the retaining clip to catch and kept throwing it back in. Finally got my head on straight and gently pulled on the axle when in and sure enough it caught (I prolly had it in all the way the first time). go over to motorvate.ca and read his tutorial (it's for replacing a boot, but the removal install procedure is the same, obviously. Most likely the bolts are rusty so you'll need a breaker bar.. that was the toughest part. THe total job for drivers axle took me just over two slow paced hours, the same time it took me to do my first brake job; to do it again wouldn't be much more than 60-90 minutes.
As for the axle I'd check your auto parts chain stores (autozone? etc.) I got mine from partsamerica.com which partners with a few chains so I can return the core.. also if you buy locally you won't have any issues if you get a dud/one that fails down the road. I paid $60 shipped for mine so the price is actually cheaper than fleabay.

 

since last i posted, i've moved and barely got settled in so i haven't taken care of this little issue. i checked with some auto stores and some quoted me different prices for the driver and passenger side drive axles, up to $30 difference and other stores quoted the same price. should there be a difference? how do i know i'm getting the right parts, more specifically that a store isn't selling me two driver's side axles or two passenger's side axles?

 

Just replaced both axles,had my Alignment done at a local shop. MAX rides nice AGAIN.

 

The prices can vary between the two axles, but in my case they were the same price. You should definitely know if you get the wrong side, the passenger is a lot longer due to the offset location of the tranny. IIRC the driver side was roughly 3 feet and passenger was more like 4.5 feet. Just make sure that you give them the correct info, ie which side, MT or AT, abs or non abs, and locking differential or non locking differential. THe last option is most likely non locking as less than 1% (or close to it) of max's came stock with vlsd transmissions. If you're not sure do a quick search on vlsd to find out what you have. FYI my axles were about 60-65 bucks after core return at local regional auto chain stores (autozone and advance auto).

 

Compare your core with the axle you are receiving (if you can take them out now). They should be the same lengths, but the boots may be different sizes which is okay. Just be sure your getting the LT warranty. If you look up the pics on AutoZone or Advance Auto Parts, you will see the difference. You will also have to get the details right as mentioned above.