Its time to replace the tranny. My input shaft has the famous worn out bearing. So I figured that while Im at it I will install a VLSD tranny. After my reaseach and searching I have two options from the junk yard:

4th gen maxima or I30t tranny - 85K miles - $800 shipped
AE 2001 Maxima tranny - 90K miles - $950 shipped

Is there any reason why I would get the 01 tranny? The only thing I have found (but not been able to confirm) is that it will move the shifter back ever so slightly like it was before I put a short shifter in it.

Im also installing a Fidanza lightened flywheel and a 01 clutch kit while Im in there.

 

The only 4th gen VLSDs you're going to find are Canadian, not USDM. Just go with the i30t or A32 ES VLSD trans, no reason to spring for an AE.

 

Oh crap...I posted up in the "NEWB" section yesterday asking about this very exact thing.

Do you have to rebuild if you have the input shaft bearing problem? I was just gonna get it dropped and replace the clutch (including the Input Shaft Bearing and the Throw-out Bearing too).

TIA

-Mike

 

youve got to rebuild to replace the input bearing. if your cars making the bearing noise when the clutch is OUT = input shaft bearing failure. Throughout bearing is when the clutch is engaged. These cars are notorious for having the wrong bearing preload from the factory which makes them wear out fast.

Id just asume swap the whole tranny for one that has limited slip instead of rebuild.

Lets keep this on topic though so that I can get my question answered. Good Luck w/ your tranny fix.

 

The majority of people at this point are voting for the 01 AE tranny 61% but I still dont know why. Could someone who has experience w/ these trannys inform me of the advantages of the AE tranny. Thanks!

 

all 97+ trannies have a slightly updated synchro, not a big deal, me personally........ I would save the $150 and use it towards an inspection/bearing replacement/shimming of the '96 tranny

 

Pretty sure the 5th gen trannies had a revised 3rd gear synchro (big weak point on 4th gens), someone chime in here...

 

GrassyAss!!!

 

EDIT: See post #21

 

So does anyone know a good shop that could do a bearing inspection in the Richmond, VA area?

And i cant find the link here that gives the specs on the bearing preload settings. Anyone know where its at?

Is it true that the 01 tranny moves the shifter back an inch or so?

 

I don't know if there is any differences in the shifter linkage, so I can't comment on the last part. But if you can handle putting in a tranny you can handle taking it apart, the onlyadditional tools you would need would be a good selection of punches, dremel if the bearings need to be replaced, and a dial indicator (could probably rent/borrow some of those). The specs and instructions are stickied in the I30 forum, "5MT VLSD FSM" and there is also a small write-up on motorvate site

 

How do you know that the bearings are shot? What side effects did you get?

 

I'm starting to think my input shaft bearing is going...

 

^^^ I am right there with ya Morpheus. I have a soft "spinning" sound when in Neutr, but when the clutch is released, it goes away. TOB or Input bearing? I am just guessing here ... it will not fix itself - unfourtuntly, and it will probably get worse before I do anything about it. Then comes the question, rebuild or 6spd swap?

Anyone know how much a 5spd rebuild cost (DIY)?

 

Input shaft bearing ....thats the same noise ive got.

 

Input shaft bearing. The input shaft is basically what's between the clutch and the gears.

 

$280 for all bearings and seals from drivetrain.com, about $25 for shims, $35 for oil.

 

My fault i got my terms backwards....the noise described is the same that I have and it is the INPUT shaft bearing NOT the TOB.


TOB makes noise only when the clutch is engaged.

 

can the i30 take hard work and driving fast all the time tho?

 

its the same car.... the exact same tranny that came in the maxima

 

clarifying some things:


All 95-2001 transmissions have the exact same synchronizers on 2nd, 3rd, 4th and 5th gear. The only synchronizer that changed during that time is the 1st gear synchronizer which changed in 1997 transmissions to a double cone synchro instead of a single cone synchro.

2000-2001 transmissions have a DIFFERENT 3rd gear (and third gear only, not 4th gear). Whether or not it it is stronger is something no one knows unless they get a strength analysis done and/or analyze the alloy to see if it is made of a stronger steel. Physically the gear teeth are the same size, the only difference in the gear that is visible is that he 2000-2001 3rd gear has very slightly larger oil passages on the 3rd input gear.

The 2000-2001 has a longer striking rod which means that the shifter moves FORWARD about an inch or so if you install a 5th gen trans in a 4th gen.

sergofast - you didn't mention when you PM'd me that the i30 trans had less miles than he 2001 trans. If you trust those mileage figures, I'd save the $150 and go with the I30 trans.

 

Thanks! Much appreciated.

So, we should all get together and have a rebuild party. lol Anyone down?

 

The rod is shorter and the shifter moves backward. The 5th gen trans is good if you ever decide to get a short shifter. A short shifter moves the shifter forward, and with a 4th gen trans it can get pretty close to the dash, but if you have a 5th gen trans, it will sit a little further back and when you install the STS it will be like stock.

 

Yeah, my 5th gen tranny makes the shifter sit pretty far back. I went w/5th gen tranny for the lower miles.
Jae

 

Yes my post was incorrect. I've had both 4th gen and 5th gen transmissions in my car and have two of each taken apart right now and I still didn't get it right lol.

 

So to recap: (for positivity sake)
If the shifter is in NEUTRAL, and the clutch is depressed to the floor, it is quiet. But if you let the clutch pedal up, you hear bearing noise. Thats the Input Shaft bearing, and NOT the TOB.. right??
If thats the case, how long do they last once they make noise? And what happens when it gets worse?
DJ

 

That is correct - that noise would be the input shaft bearing. (It doesn't have to be in neutral though, all that matters is whether the clutch pedal is pressed in or not. It's just easiest to hear in neutral when the car is stopped).

If it's making noise like that it's already gone bad to the point that there's excessive wear and it's just getting worse. The longer you let it go, the more damage you risk doing. Eventually it will wear out to the point where there is enough play that a number of really bad things can happen. You can tip load the gear teeth and start breaking them. You can wear out the seal such that the fluid starts leaking out. You can wear the gear teeth unevenly and cause them to ruin themselves, etc.

That said, I've heard of guys waiting 6 months maybe longer after theirs started making noise to fix it. I wouldn't wait that long though. Once you notice it, get it fixed as soon as you can given your financial situation and schedule.

 

... not what I really wanted to hear this morning ... but ... the truth is just that. I need to do mine! I noticed it in March but who knows how long it's really been bad. Only had this Max since Nov last year. 94k on the clock and STRONG VQ! I like this one even better than my 3rd gen 91'.

 

go with the newer one. newer is always better!

 

Not always true. If you had a choice of used coils from a '99 vs a '97, which would you go for?