Big Problem help!
#1
Big Problem help!
So..yesterday I got my passenger side axle replaced..when the guy removed the axle from the tranny some of the tranny fluid came out..so after the instalation of the axles I gave him a quart of manual tranny fluid to put back in..but it wasnt enough and he took it upon himself not to ask for more and just put his own fluid in and charge me an extra $10..so I drive the car and i realized the clutch started to slip a little bit..so im thinking that the gear oil he put in is too thick or something..but I had to go back today to get the drivers side done so I figured i'd see how it felt after the other one was changed...well the other side was changed and not my f***king clutch is slipping..very bad and I dont know what to do ...what do i say to the mechanic because hes just gonna deny that anything he did damaged the car..thankyou for your help
#2
Consumer protection act! bring that up to him, let him Goo it ... and I bet he'll wanna fix it! Basicly ( here in Missouri) it says that if "he" worked on the part that is now not working right, he's responsible. Weather he likes it or not, like you said, he took it upon himself.
I have never run into this problem before but maybe another member has. I am not sure he did anything wrong really ... hard to tell with the info given. IMHO, it could be that replacing the 1/2 shafts took out any slack in the drivetarain. What I mean is ... if the axles were not tight before and they are now, it is possible that you just didn't notice the clutch slip before due to the slack in the CV joints and now you do.
A good way to test the clutch is to find a little hill ... not too large, not too small. Start up the hill in a higher gear than you need and see if you hear it spinning. If your Tach spins up but your not making forward progress, you have a bad clutch.
Hope this will help a bit anyway. G'luck ... keep us posted mate!
Cheers
I have never run into this problem before but maybe another member has. I am not sure he did anything wrong really ... hard to tell with the info given. IMHO, it could be that replacing the 1/2 shafts took out any slack in the drivetarain. What I mean is ... if the axles were not tight before and they are now, it is possible that you just didn't notice the clutch slip before due to the slack in the CV joints and now you do.
A good way to test the clutch is to find a little hill ... not too large, not too small. Start up the hill in a higher gear than you need and see if you hear it spinning. If your Tach spins up but your not making forward progress, you have a bad clutch.
Hope this will help a bit anyway. G'luck ... keep us posted mate!
Cheers
#4
While your incident does have concerns about proper fluid level, there is absolutely no correlation between this and the slipping clutch. Trans fluid level has nothing to do with it. Clutch fluid level, pedal free play and overall clutch condition do however.
#6
Are the axles "crunching" at all? Deff get the flush and see if it helps.
Oh ... and btw ... find another dood to do your work ... maybe like YOU! DIY for life, know it's done right
Oh ... and btw ... find another dood to do your work ... maybe like YOU! DIY for life, know it's done right
#7
when he refilled it i gave him with 80- 85w-90...and he put about a quart and a half of his own "unknown fluiid in"..but ill buy some 75w-90 today but does it have to be from redline because i was planning on getting it right from napa
#8
Originally Posted by JtzMax
Are the axles "crunching" at all? Deff get the flush and see if it helps.
Oh ... and btw ... find another dood to do your work ... maybe like YOU! DIY for life, know it's done right
Oh ... and btw ... find another dood to do your work ... maybe like YOU! DIY for life, know it's done right
I always do my work myself this is the first and last time my car has ever been to a mechanic..I had autoshop in school so all the work I needed to do i did there..but i no longer have access to a lift so I figured i'd let the guy do my axles...BIG MISTAKE..i'll get the flush today and we'll see
#9
Glad you do your own work, my dad tought me years ago that if ya want something done right, "do it yourself"! I understand no lift and all, fortunatly for me, I have a buddy with a lift in his shop, used to be a mechanic shop, now it's a used car place. There are a few, very few, things I will take to a shop to have done. Partly because I am lazy, but mostly cause I don't have the time. Last time my Max was in the shop was to get an exahust hanger welded on.
Anyway ... good luck, hope it all works out and I hope he doesn't try to shaft you anymore than he already has. You might wanna document all of this ... other than here too ... for leagal reasons, incase you need a new tranny after this .. who knows, stranger things have happened. Peace mate!
Anyway ... good luck, hope it all works out and I hope he doesn't try to shaft you anymore than he already has. You might wanna document all of this ... other than here too ... for leagal reasons, incase you need a new tranny after this .. who knows, stranger things have happened. Peace mate!
#10
flushed the tranny and still now difference...im at a lost for words because my clutch was perfectly fine untill my car entered that shop and now i geuss i have to buy a new clutch
#11
Supporting Maxima.org Member
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Check the adjustment first, you wouldn't be the first person to have a ****hole scumbag ****head mechanic misadjust the clutch, then simply re-adjust it while charging you $500 for a clutch change.......
#12
how would i go about adjusting the clutch? My uncle is a mechanic in canada and he mentioned the adjustment..i was planing on going there next month and while i was there he could do some work on my car because I cant trust the mechanics around here...do you guys think the max will make a 8hr drive to canada with a slightly slipping clutch?
#13
Supporting Maxima.org Member
iTrader: (29)
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Middleboro/Carver, Ma
Posts: 4,572
It's in the sticky's somehwere....... Two 12mm nuts and a threaded rod WAY up at the top of the clutch pedal, have fun.... I forget which way makes it engage sooner and which makes it engage later, but you should be able to figure it out, you want there to be less preload, ie you want the rod outward from the master-cylinder, assuming the mechanic did mess with this of course. There is a mechanic in NJ you can trust though, .org name Tavarish
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