Gas saving mods.
06-27-2007 | 09:16 AM
#41
Those are sick MPG postings they show, if you noticed most of them are driving Geo metros or Saturns, Civics or what have you.......I have an idea why dont we hire semis that drive around with those ski lifts(forgot there names) where we line up behind it, it grabs our cars, we throw it in neutral, and when our exit shows up we sling out of it!!!
Or....
We make a serious effort to boycott these gougers where "Not one gallon is sold, anywhere", do that for a few days and see how that changes things. We can thank Bush for this pos economy....CEO of BP sneezed and hit his head on his desk, soon after gas prices rose $1, CEO of Shell sharted in his pants raise them $2, Bush says to his fellow oil buddies f' em lets rape them and raise it to an average of $3. Sorry if this looks like ranting, but were all f-o-s, its our faults that prices are this high. Hey Bush
!!!!
Or....
We make a serious effort to boycott these gougers where "Not one gallon is sold, anywhere", do that for a few days and see how that changes things. We can thank Bush for this pos economy....CEO of BP sneezed and hit his head on his desk, soon after gas prices rose $1, CEO of Shell sharted in his pants raise them $2, Bush says to his fellow oil buddies f' em lets rape them and raise it to an average of $3. Sorry if this looks like ranting, but were all f-o-s, its our faults that prices are this high. Hey Bush
!!!!
Originally Posted by James92SE
www.gassavers.org
If you're serious about getting good MPG you'll check out that site. I see this thread is about squeezing out better MPG but I doubt anybody in the Maxima community is 'serious' enough about it to do what some of those guys do. I mean, underbody paneling, grill delete kits, closing in wheel wells, etc.
It seems a few big things to do are ignition-off coasting, limiting idling, and being cautiously steady/easy on the gas. I'm not sure how feasible the coasting is on Maxima's with power steering and whatnot, but the limiting idling will certainly help as well as driving a bit slower.
I actually picked up an '89 Civic DX hatchback a few months ago to serve as my daily driver for work. The thing has 240k miles, is pretty rough, and by practicing some 'techniques' I learned on gassavers.org I've consistently gotten just under 50 MPG over the past two months of commuting to work. And I kid you not, this isnt even highway driving. I cant imagine the mileage I'd be getting if the car was in good shape. Before I started doing all that stuff, I was getting about 32-34 MPG in it.
I haven't tried any ignition-off coasting in the Maxima and I'm not sure I care enough to try, but I have tried to limit my idling and driving a bit slower and have seen a 2-3 MPG increase by just doing that.
If you're serious about getting good MPG you'll check out that site. I see this thread is about squeezing out better MPG but I doubt anybody in the Maxima community is 'serious' enough about it to do what some of those guys do. I mean, underbody paneling, grill delete kits, closing in wheel wells, etc.
It seems a few big things to do are ignition-off coasting, limiting idling, and being cautiously steady/easy on the gas. I'm not sure how feasible the coasting is on Maxima's with power steering and whatnot, but the limiting idling will certainly help as well as driving a bit slower.
I actually picked up an '89 Civic DX hatchback a few months ago to serve as my daily driver for work. The thing has 240k miles, is pretty rough, and by practicing some 'techniques' I learned on gassavers.org I've consistently gotten just under 50 MPG over the past two months of commuting to work. And I kid you not, this isnt even highway driving. I cant imagine the mileage I'd be getting if the car was in good shape. Before I started doing all that stuff, I was getting about 32-34 MPG in it.
I haven't tried any ignition-off coasting in the Maxima and I'm not sure I care enough to try, but I have tried to limit my idling and driving a bit slower and have seen a 2-3 MPG increase by just doing that.
06-27-2007 | 09:46 AM
#42
1. Transmission rebuild with custom microfinished bearings, re-balancing of internals for very high speeds, and taller 5th gear
2. Transmission fluid cocktail of 1.5 quarts Amsoil MTF and the rest Amsoil MTG
3. Rebuilt engine with lightweight billet microfinished internals, knife-edging on the crankshaft, microfinished bearings, and tighter tolerances everywhere
4. Lightweight flywheel and crankshaft pulley
5. Lightweight valves, softer valve springs, and custom cams
6. Engine rotating assembly including flywheel and clutch kit balanced for >10,000 rpm operation
7. Fuchs Titan GT1 0w-20 engine oil and Amsoil EaO oil filter
8. Custom Raxles axles with the REALLY high-end Redline grease they use on special projects
9. 15" Motegi TrakLite wheels with 205/65/15 V-rated Toyo Proxes TPT tires (~29 lbs/corner) and aerodynamic coverings
10. Carbon fiber hood, trunk (no spoiler), and front fenders
11. Sunroof delete with custom carbon fiber panel (if you have a sunroof)
12. Custom carbon fiber full underbody covering
13. Ground Control sleeved springs (~250 lbs/in front and rear) with Koni Yellow dampers (shortened in front) and long-travel rear mounts, set for a 1.5" drop
14. Custom microfinished wheel bearings all around with fully synthetic grease
15. Clay bar, wet sanding, polish, REALLY nice wax
16. M3 door mirrors
17. Lightweight racing seats
18. Lightweight battery
19. Stock diameter ceramic-coated mandrel-bent full exhaust with relatively short-runner equal-length headers and one O2 sensor for each cylinder
20. Rear beam bent for zero toe, drilled with chamfered holes, and reinforced with chromoly
21. New rubber suspension bushings all around
22. Polyurethane engine mount and subframe bushings
23. Ceramic coated '99 Cali-spec intake manifold with swirl valves
24. Oil pan windage tray
25. LED replacements for all lights inside and out except headlights and fog lights
26. HID low-beams
27. Flat tire fix kit instead of spare tire and jack
28. Custom tune on a standalone engine management system with individual control of each cylinder for optimum running (hence all the O2 sensors)
29. Phenolic spacers for the intake manifold and throttle body
30. Stock size 2-piece lightweight brake rotors all around
31. Custom heat-insulated cold air intake with oversized filter drawing air from the stock location, with the MAF and IAT sensor relocated to just before the TB for more accurate measurement
32. New OEM alternator, AC compressor, and power steering pump; lightweight underdrive pulley and Mobil 1 ATF for power steering pump
All the powertrain mods (including oils) except the windage tray would have to be done at the same time. The rest can be done whenever.
I'm probably forgetting a few things but that's the jist of it.
2. Transmission fluid cocktail of 1.5 quarts Amsoil MTF and the rest Amsoil MTG
3. Rebuilt engine with lightweight billet microfinished internals, knife-edging on the crankshaft, microfinished bearings, and tighter tolerances everywhere
4. Lightweight flywheel and crankshaft pulley
5. Lightweight valves, softer valve springs, and custom cams
6. Engine rotating assembly including flywheel and clutch kit balanced for >10,000 rpm operation
7. Fuchs Titan GT1 0w-20 engine oil and Amsoil EaO oil filter
8. Custom Raxles axles with the REALLY high-end Redline grease they use on special projects
9. 15" Motegi TrakLite wheels with 205/65/15 V-rated Toyo Proxes TPT tires (~29 lbs/corner) and aerodynamic coverings
10. Carbon fiber hood, trunk (no spoiler), and front fenders
11. Sunroof delete with custom carbon fiber panel (if you have a sunroof)
12. Custom carbon fiber full underbody covering
13. Ground Control sleeved springs (~250 lbs/in front and rear) with Koni Yellow dampers (shortened in front) and long-travel rear mounts, set for a 1.5" drop
14. Custom microfinished wheel bearings all around with fully synthetic grease
15. Clay bar, wet sanding, polish, REALLY nice wax
16. M3 door mirrors
17. Lightweight racing seats
18. Lightweight battery
19. Stock diameter ceramic-coated mandrel-bent full exhaust with relatively short-runner equal-length headers and one O2 sensor for each cylinder
20. Rear beam bent for zero toe, drilled with chamfered holes, and reinforced with chromoly
21. New rubber suspension bushings all around
22. Polyurethane engine mount and subframe bushings
23. Ceramic coated '99 Cali-spec intake manifold with swirl valves
24. Oil pan windage tray
25. LED replacements for all lights inside and out except headlights and fog lights
26. HID low-beams
27. Flat tire fix kit instead of spare tire and jack
28. Custom tune on a standalone engine management system with individual control of each cylinder for optimum running (hence all the O2 sensors)
29. Phenolic spacers for the intake manifold and throttle body
30. Stock size 2-piece lightweight brake rotors all around
31. Custom heat-insulated cold air intake with oversized filter drawing air from the stock location, with the MAF and IAT sensor relocated to just before the TB for more accurate measurement
32. New OEM alternator, AC compressor, and power steering pump; lightweight underdrive pulley and Mobil 1 ATF for power steering pump
All the powertrain mods (including oils) except the windage tray would have to be done at the same time. The rest can be done whenever.
I'm probably forgetting a few things but that's the jist of it.
06-27-2007 | 01:58 PM
#48
Originally Posted by d00df00d
20[/B]. Rear beam bent for zero toe, drilled with chamfered holes, and reinforced with chromoly
That one really cracked me up.You forgot a much taller 5th gear and final drive to turn over 2000rpm at 60.
06-27-2007 | 02:06 PM
#49
Originally Posted by MorpheusZero
That one really cracked me up.
Originally Posted by MorpheusZero
You forgot a much taller 5th gear and final drive to turn over 2000rpm at 60.
EDIT: Man, the more I think about this, the more I want to drive a Max with all that work in it...
06-07-2012 | 05:30 PM
#50
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 5
I am trying to save gas as well. Gotta save as much $,overtime, as possible for my wedding. I have a set of 350Z 17" wheels and tires on my 4th gen. No serious mods. Just a 2.5" exhaust with Y-Pipe. I know for a fact that my KS and front O2 are shot. Going to replace them soon. Just want to know at what PSI should my tires be with those wheels?
06-07-2012 | 09:44 PM
#52
fyi, i'm selling original equipment genuine nissan knock sensors in the classifieds for $35.00 to org members.
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...0-shipped.html
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...0-shipped.html
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