FIXED!

My 98 SE 5 speed just started cutting out while driving. It only happens when the car is fully warmed up. I can drive it when it's cold for about 15 minutes before it starts to happen. Once warm the car will just shut off when I take it out of gear to slow down for a light. It happened this morning and luckily I got it started again before I had to make a turn. When it's really bad I can't even keep the car running by holding the gas down. Usually after a couple tries of starting up the car I'll get it running again.

Any ideas where I should start to diagnose the problem? The car has 145000miles. I only use premium gas and the car runs smooth and fast when it's not having this problem.

 

ECTS, MAF? SES codes?

 

sounds alot like the maf may be shorting out, run the codes off of your ecu and see what pops up

 

I've had the EXACT same thing happen last week. It would just cut-off and wouldn't start until i let it cool down. It turned out to be the Camshaft Position Sensor. Do you have a SES?

 

the first time it happend I didn't have the check engine light but it just came on last week and even after disconnecting the battery the light comes back right away. I didn't get a chance to check the computer for codes yet..

 

there you go It's either the maf or cps

 

I don't think it's the mafs cuz I had a problem with my mafs on my 240sx and it's acting differently.. I thought if it was the maf It wouldn't let me rev up normally

Do I have to take the timing cover off to get to the CPS? Is it a real pain

 

nope, it's the one above the pulleys/tentioner, next to the motor mount

But first, let's make sure that that's the code you have. Apparently, if the sensor's on the way out, heat helps that process

 

My car cuts off also except when I change gears from park to drive or reverse to drive.... o yea its an auto.... usually happens at coldstarts...

 

I'll check the codes tonight when I get home.. thanks for all the help guys.. check back tomorrow to see what codes I pulled up..

 

Curious as to why you didn't do that in the first place

Hint: When you find out what codes you got, read the stickies in order to find various fixes/causes/diagnostic information re: your code(s).

 

I had the same problem recently and it ended up just needing a fuel system and intake system cleaning and a new fuel filter. Most important check the codes first. If that doesn't fix the problem then learn from my mistake and fix the cheaper things first (like fuel filter, fuel injector cleaner, throttle body and intake cleaning, etc.). It might end up saving you a lot in the long run.

 

I just checked the codes from the computer and it gave me 05 09 which isn't on the list in the stickies.. It just did 5 long flashes and 9 short flashes over and over again... Maybe I don't know how to count.. I'll go do it again..

Also while I was struggling to keep the car running driving home today I noticed that the temperature sensor jumps up and down before it stalls out.. and than it just goes down to cold or up to the middle again, strange?

 

0509: "idle control system circuit high" according to my OBD II scanner manual. Beats me....but you did mention about the temp gauge. It could be the ECTS, but the gauge works off the sender. Any one else?

 

Do you think I should take the Iac off and try to clean it?? I went back to check for codes again after starting up the car again but now it's cleared out.. I have to take it for a drive again to make it come back..

 

if you haven't cleaned your TB & IACV yet, then it wouldn't hurt

 

Front O2 Sensor-b2 P0154 0509 ec-179

 

same thing happened to me.. check the battery terminals to see if they are couroded or not.

 

Kevlo911, would a dead front O2 sensor cause his car to stall?

 

I changed the battery and cleaned the terminals cuz my battery died last week but this was happening before I changed it so that can't be it.

 

The o2 sensor would make sense since it only happens when the car is warmed up. The front o2 sensor is a heated sensor that doesn't function until the car goes out of closed loop right?

But this doesn't explain the temp sensor jumping up and down...

Anyway I might as well change the front o2 sensor since I have a new one anyway. The only thing is I tried to do it last week and It's in a really tight spot. I couldn't figure out how to get the o2 sensor tool on it with my ratchet... Is there a trick I don't know about.

 

Most definitely could. Usually, bad O2 sensors will make themselves known either through stalling, almost stalling, or rough running/idling.

 

do people know what the search button is why is there like a 1,000,000,000 posts about the same problem your answer is always gonna be a MAF more then likely. its not that hard i dont mind helping people but its gets old seeing the same issue over and over again. but someone different

 

and ure only here since march, wait a few more months and u'll go ballistic

or wait until the fall comes and all those cold start threads will come back.

 

it needed a new battery.if your talking about my car

 

When I had the same symptoms it was my ECTS... so it may not be the MAF but hey thanks for helping us little guys out

All the talk of "only when warmed up etc" really sounds alot like ECTS than MAF. Dead MAF would stop you revving past 2500rpm and he says thats not problem

 

i'm asking the question cuz I'm pretty confident it's not the mafs.. and I use search.. no one has seen the temp sensor jumping up and down or at least it doesn't come up in search or the stickies..

I've had a bad mafs in my 240 and my cousins max.. I know what the symptoms are... a bad mafs wouldn't let the car rev as smoothly as it does in the high rpm

but thanks for the help

 

I fixed the car this weekend it was the ECTS.. It was totally out of range when I checked the resistance... I picked one up from Autozone for $23.. the 0509 ses code went away and the car runs perfect now..

thanks for all the help guys

 

Go to NAPA and buy part 3259, "Universal Vacuum PVS, TBS Valve and Oxugen Sensor Socket". Even though it says use a 7/8" inch open wrench (it did not fit) go to Sears and buy a 15/16" Craftsman open wrench. It fits. Slide the socket on and push the wrench towards the windshield to loosen it up. If you get confused how to turn the wrench take a jar put it on its side and turn the glass. This is how the sensor will move. What I explaned should take about 15 mins. Do it in the morning when the engine is cold or you may burn your self and above all else go slow.

 

Ok Here is my question for my Maxima 2000. P0154 code comes on. My OBDII scanner tells me its Bank 2 Sensor 1 No Activity. So, I remove the sensor and actually cleaned it with some MAF cleaner. I figure I have nothing to lose. I plug it back in and still I get the SES and code P0154. I undo my negative battery terminal. Here a distinct, "Click" sound, come out ten minutes later, put the terminal connection back to battery, reset time, radio etc... I start the car up and SES. I am driving a little bit, no code. However, I notice the temperature is now about 86 degrees, the SES came on in the 90 degree plus range. Could it be possible the engine is so hot even with the outside temperature that the sensors are not working properly? Has anyone ever had this thought before?

 

I have a suggestion. Why don't you just change the sensor? WHy would you spray an oxygen sensor with a MAF cleaner?

 

First I cleaned the MAF Sensor. Then I cleaned the 02 sensor to see if it wasn't just dirty.

I am going to change the sensor since the code came back on. MAF cleaner is cheap. Also, I have heard cleaning the sensors previously. Also, the P0154 Code on my scanner says bank 2 sensor 1. The other code that came up was P0174 which refers me to the MAF but also a Bank 2 code. So I went on eliminating the variable of keeping it clean.

In addition, after I install the 02 Bank 2 Sensor 1 , I will see if the P0174 code comes on again, if it does, by then I will have the MAF sensor that I ordered from South Point Nissan.

Even though the cleaner is for a MAF it should work on the O2 sensor as well.

 

yea make sure you check all of your sensors.

 

Ok, I installed the new o2 sensor, Bank 2 sensor 1. I have driven the car about 40 miles so far. I turned it on and off several times. I believe the car is adjusting itself to the sensor. I also believe I will know in about a hundred miles or so if the MAF will really need to be exchanged. I will keep you posted.

 

had same problem. it was the maf. cleaning it didnt help at all.

 

I drove the car 50 miles afterwards. I got the p0160 code. Bank 2 s2. This is all related to the MAF sensor. I am waiting for this to arrive next!

 

Got the MAF sensor last night and changed it. The is really running quietly and very quick on the acceleration with the new 02 and MAF sensors

 

good think you fixed it man, i'm glad!