QikEnuf

I believe my clutch is starting to slip in 1st gear, as I start to take off it makes a clunking sound and it feels like the wheels hop, so my question to you people is do you think it's the clutch and if so what type of clutch do you recommend and what's the average labor amount to do it (or could it be DIY and does anyone have a write up on that)

Thanks

Daniel B. Martin

A good test for a slipping clutch is to travel on a level road at 50 mph in 5th gear. Floor the gas pedal. If the engine rpm increases quickly but the vehicle speed does not, you have a slipping clutch. The sensation is similar to spinning your wheels on an icy roadway.

QikEnuf

I am about 90% sure that it doesn't do that, it only does it on take off in 1st gear, any other suggestions for me?

Thanks

Daniel B. Martin

Replacing the clutch is a job which can be done in the driveway by the intermediate home mechanic. I'd budget a full day for this job. Better still, two half-days. If you do the job in two half-days you are less likely to become fatigued. When you get tired, that's when mistakes get made.


You will need:
- a manual to guide you (Chilton or Haynes will do).
- an assortment of ordinary hand tools including socket wrenches.
- a torque wrench
- a good floor jack and pair of sturdy jackstands (two pairs are preferable).
- a socket wrench to fit the big axle nut.
- a tie rod end separator tool (on some cars).
- a ball joint separator tool (on some cars).
- a catch pan for draining the transaxle.
- a funnel for filling the transaxle.
- a can of Frog Juice (WD-40 or equivalent)
- lots of absorbent rags or paper towels.

Inexpensive "pickle fork" separator tools will work, but they may tear the rubber boot. There is also an expensive separator tool (it looks like a gear puller) which won't damage the boot. Some parts suppliers offer a no-charge loan of special tools when you buy the parts from them. Ask about that.

Towards the end of the job you will install the large nut on the end of the axle. The torque spec for this nut is somewhere around 200 foot-lbs. If you don't have a torque wrench, that's okay. Just make it as tight as you can, and that's tight enough.

Replacing the clutch involves removing both axle shafts. Evaluate the condition of your Constant Velocity joints and their protective boots before doing the tear-down. They may need replacement, and it is labor-saving to make this repair as part of the clutch replacement job.

Clutch replacement is covered in the Chilton repair manual (page 7-7) and the Haynes repair manual (page 8-3). See also http://www.motorvate.ca/ and click on 5-speed rebuild.

QikEnuf

Thanks for all the info, but with the info that I have provided does it sound like clutch to you or do I have a bigger issue here?

Thanks

Daniel B. Martin

I think you have a smaller issue here. It might be a minor problem with the hydraulic actuator sticking. This would affect shifts into all gears but would be less noticeable when the car is already moving. I suggest you just live with it until the symptom becomes more pronounced, and therefore easier to diagnose.

QikEnuf

UPDATE: I did the test on the clutch and it does not show any signs of slipping in 5th gear, but I did hear an unusual sound coming from the transmission area under the hood, but after pressing the clutch in the noise goes away, the noise sounds like a soft clicking sound, so now I have no clue what could be going on. Could it possibly be my throw out bearing?

Daniel B. Martin

No.

A bad clutch release bearing (a/k/a throwout bearing) will emit a shrill sound when your foot is on the clutch, including when the clutch pedal is "floored". It will be heard even when the vehicle is not moving. Your sound goes away when the clutch is pressed. It is not the throwout bearing. Perhaps it is coming from inside the transaxle.

If you care to pursue this matter you could replace the transaxle lubricant. This is done as a diagnostic measure, not a remedial measure. Observe the color of the old lube as it pours out. It should be brown or black. If it is shiny and silvery, that is cause for concern. That silvery color is thousands of tiny metal particles which have flaked off internal transaxle parts such as bearings.

Dave B

Sounds to me like you've got the infamous clutch chatter that is very common in all 4th gen Maximas. Motor Trend even complained about this. Every once in a while, especically in wetter weather, my clutch will chatter and it makes me look like a virgin manual driver. The chatter make the engine feel like you've wheel hop. The chatter usually goes away within 10 minutes. I wouldn't be worried unless it does this all the time.


Dave

Daniel B. Martin

I agree. Chatter is probably not a sign of impending failure. It is just an annoying characteristic. My clutch chatters too, now and then. If I ever replace this clutch I will not use Nissan replacement parts. I regard the clutch in my Maxima as a low point in an otherwise fine car.

QikEnuf

It does tend to happen on a regular basis now, so lets say I go for a 30 minute trip with 10 stops at a red light of those 10 stops it will do this for 4 of the stops, so it is becoming more of an issue for me along with the soft clicking sound that seems to follow the RPM until I can no longer hear it because of the engine sounds.

by the way..how did you tweak your HKS intake?

Thanks

MaxedOut97SE

Could you elaborate on what the characteristics of clutch chatter and wheel hop are? I'm curious.

1/3There2/3ToGo

D-I-Y = ???

K

Daniel B. Martin

Chatter is a rapid slip-grab-slip-grab phenomenon. The clutch engagement is "jerky" instead of smooth. Clutch chatter is felt more than heard. It occurs only while the clutch is engaging, and is most noticeable when starting from rest. As soon as your foot is off the clutch pedal the chatter stops.

Clutch chatter may be caused by, or aggravated by,
- oil or dirt on the friction surface (leaking rear main engine oil seal)
- glazed friction surface (excessive heat resulting from abusive driving practices)
- pressure plate diaphragm spring misaligned
- loose or broken engine mounts

Daniel B. Martin

D-I-Y = Do It Yourself. In other words, I am a hobbyist, an amateur, a shadetree mechanic.

Curt Deiner

iTrader: (1)

I had the "clutch chatter" problem also. The bearings in my tranny wore out too, which started with a leaking axle seal. The dealer replaced the seal twice. The third time when it still leaked, Nissan had them open the tranny to find the worn bearings. Apparently allowing the axle to move and take out the seal. Luckily it was still under warranty. They replaced like six bearings. While it was apart they suggested it was time to replace my clutch. Since I felt that shudder, I agreed. It only cost me $200 for the clutch. I would not recommend the Nissan replacement clutch. Also referred as "key value" clutch kit. Although the shutter is totally gone, and the peddle is much lighter (hello!) I think it slips during hard acceleration. I get much less chirping of the tires now.

QikEnuf

Could a leaky neutral safety switch cause this problem at all?

Curt Deiner

iTrader: (1)

I know oil on the clutch will cause problems. Don't know if oil leaking from the switch can make it's way to the clutch though? Anyone? Isn't a neutral safety switch on autos only?

Daniel B. Martin

No.

QikEnuf

So what shall I do next, just take it to the dealer and have them inspect it?

Curt Deiner

iTrader: (1)

Time to upgrade! Like I said if I did it over I would consider ACT or Stillen clutch. Sounds like people have been happy with them. Or if you can be sure and get a Japan Nissan clutch not the key value kit from US. The key value is ok, light peddle for stop & go driving, but it's not heavy duty. I could get the part number off my ticket if you want. How many miles you have? btw I noticed your in OH. I was born in Elyria.

QikEnuf

I was thinking about upgrading to the Centerforce dual friction clutch, and while I was in there just doing a lightened flywheel and short throw shifter...Elyria...not too sure where that is, I was bored and raise in Cincinnati

Oh..my car has 116k on it

Daniel B. Martin

This may seem surprising, but 5-speed Maximas do have a gearshift position switch. This one component combines two functions ...
- controls the back-up lights (when in Reverse)
- signals the Engine Control Module (when in Neutral)

The factory service manual uses a paradoxical and confusing name for this switch. It is the "Park/Neutral Position switch (M/T models)". This is confusing because the same name is used for a switch on the automatic transmission, and it makes sense in that context because 5-speeds don't have a Park position while automatics do.

A diagram in the Maxima factory service manual indicates that the signal from the PNP switch in 5-speed cars is one of several inputs used by the ECM to control the fuel cutoff mechanism.

Curt Deiner

iTrader: (1)

Do you know if this is only used to limit models without the C&C package (less than H rated tires). Or is there also a rev limit on my '97 SE 5-spd model?

Daniel B. Martin

Is your Maxima still covered by the warranty?

"Inspect the clutch" could describe two procedures.
1) Drive the car and pay careful attention to the clutch feel and sound. This takes five minutes.
2) Remove the transaxle from the vehicle. Remove the clutch. Make a visual examination of the clutch parts, especially the friction material on the disk. Measure the wear on the disk. This takes 3-4 hours.

I'll tell you what I do with respect to the occasional chatter of my clutch. I ignore it.

QikEnuf

Unfortunately, I do no have a warranty on the vehicle

What is your suggestion about the soft clicking sound, which may or may not be a throwout bearing?

Daniel B. Martin

Let's distinguish between three different aspects of Engine Control Module operation.

1) Rev limiter.
The ECM prevents engine operation above a preset rpm threshold. This is to protect the engine. It has nothing to do with gearshift position.

2) Speed limiter.
The ECM prevents vehicle operation above a preset mph threshold. This is to protect the occupants. It has nothing to do with gearshift position.

3) Fuel cutoff.
The ECM conserves fuel and reduces exhaust emissions by cutting off fuel when the throttle is closed and certain other criteria are met (gearshift position, coolant temperature, vehicle speed, etc.).

TTBOMK Maxima SE models do not have a speed limiter.

Daniel B. Martin

Perhaps the soft clicking sound is coming from inside the transaxle. If you care to pursue this matter you could replace the transaxle lubricant. This is done as a diagnostic measure, not a remedial measure. Observe the color of the old lube as it pours out. It should be brown or black. If it is shiny and silvery, that is cause for concern. That silvery color is thousands of tiny metal particles which have flaked off internal transaxle parts such as bearings.

QikEnuf

do you think by replacing the clutch, throwout bearing, flywheel will take care of this issue?

The flywheel might be overkill, but since it's apart..what the hell.

Daniel B. Martin

No! In a previous post I told you the mysterious sound might be coming from inside the transaxle. You should do some diagnostic work before you begin to throw money at the problem.

QikEnuf

Understandable, and that was a dumb question...here is some more info, as I was on my way home today, traffic was stop and go on the highway and the clutch did the chatter problem almost the whole way home and it seems to be getting rougher and rougher feeling, it does do it right after the clutch engages and then it did something new as well...when the clutch pedal was almost to the floor it did it there too..so I am wondering whether it's still chattering...hmm I will just have to take it to the dealer and have them investigate it..no time for me to do it now

MaxedOut97SE

I had the same problem. My bearings were bad about 2 months ago and needed to be replaced, so I got a new clutch for $200. I noticed that the pedal was much lighter, and to my dissapointment the clutch would slip when flooring it from 1st to second. It seems to not slip as much anymore, which I do not understand b/c D.B.M. told me that the clutch had as much grab as it would ever have then. It seems to have more grab now, however it still won't bark second like my old clutch. I called the dealership more than once and asked them if a replacement clutch for my '97 Maxima would be *exactly* the same as the original clutch that came out of the factory and they said that it was the same. I told them of my situation and they told me to bring it in so they could look at it, but I haven't yet. I'm anticipating that they will merely tell me "tough luck" and charge me $36 dollars. That is the reason I haven't taken it in yet. I will report that my pedal doesn't seem to be as light as it was and it does seem to have more grab with time, even though I was told that wasn't possible. I really don't know what the problem is here. If the dealership says it's the same clutch as the original and it slips wouldn't they be obligated to fix it? I mean my old clutch had 64k miles on it and while it was moderately worn, it would bark second easily.

QikEnuf

Well...after taking the car to the dealer to find out exactly what the hell was going on with the car and so far it's a clutch and the tranny bearings are bad, now for those that have had them replaced, what price did you pay to have them replaced? The local dealer here in cincinnati want 1200 plus tax to do it...and another 700 plus tax for the clutch repair...OUCH!!!!

What to do, I plan on having my buddy to do the clutch but don't know of anyone that can fix the tranny..anyone have any suggestions.

Thanks for all the help

nforg

I was talking to my friend on the phone today who is very knowledgable and I slipped him this question and I can't type as fast as he talked but this was the summary of it...

sounds like the clutch isnt disengaging all the way, ... the clutch isnt disengaging fully, whats causing this is (1) error inside hydralic system - because air can be compressed but fluid cannot, if theres a slow leak inside the master cylinder, if a little air gets in there ur screwed...(2 - less common) warpaged (warped clutch plate wobbles as it spins or flywheel)

When I mentioned about looking at the transaxle fluid he said that silver is uncommon to see because that metal is heavy and generally does not mix with the rest of the fluid and rather sinks to the bottom and you won't see it because the drain plug is on the side or on top, but rather to look for gold which is from the synchronizer rings

He said it sounded like the clutch and you should be able to get a kit for around $110 for clutch and pressure plate although he mentioned that this isn't for an amateur

Oh the reason he said you don't feel that in any gear but first is because in all the other gears the car is rolling and is in motion....

Anyways just trying to help sorry if this info has already been covered I just read the original ? and skimmed the responses in my head on the phone....

-Nate

QikEnuf

Every little bit of info helps...Although I am going to replace the clutch with a centerforce dual friction, it's the tranny bearings that have me worried, I am not sure how long they will hold out and what type of damage will occur if and when they do fail

Blaqueman

Hi,

I've done the 50 mph test recommended by Dan and it seems that I have a slipping clutch. This surprises me somewhat since I only have 66k miles on my '97 SE. Although I bought it used and Its been awhile since I drove stick so maybe my inexperience burned out the clutch. Shifting and performance was fine until two days ago. Now I have slippage and a slight burning smell. Anyway, I don't have the tools or the patientce to do it myself so I'm wondering What's a good replacement clutch? What's a good price for the total repair? and any thoughts on a good repair shop or chain in the Philly, PA area?

This has really bummed me out since I just got the car and had it checked by my mechanic before the purchase. They've been great through the years so I'm thinking my non-shifting self has burned out the damn clutch. Any cheerful thoughts will be greatly appreciated.

Blaqueman

QikEnuf

My local nissan dealer was going to charge like $700 for the clutch, but not sure what kind it would be. So I am looking at the Centerforce Dual Friction clutch, others have recommended the ACT and the Stillen, although I think the stillen might be a centerforce, but not sure. The clutch should only cost you are 300 for a performance one, and the labor should be 4-500 depending on the shop and the hourly rate. I think it takes 5.5 hours to replace if I remember right.

Hope this helps.

Daniel B. Martin

This sounds like a high price. The $1200 includes removing the transaxle. My local Nissan dealer advertises a replacement Maxima clutch for $400 (total) and that would also include removing the transaxle. I suspect your dealer is charging twice for removing the transaxle even though he would do it only once for both repairs.

It makes no sense to have these two repairs done separately for reasons explained above. Find an independent repair shop that will do both for a lower price.

Go go http://www.motorvate.ca/ and click on 5-Speed Rebuild to see how tranny bearings are replaced. Perhaps your buddy will feel confident enough to do the whole job for you.

Blaqueman

I took my '97 SE to a local Tranny Shop to see about the clutch. After test driving and opening her up, the tech's exact words to me were "Clutch? What clutch? I can't beleive you were even able to drive it in here..." The drive was a long slow process. Anyway, new OEM clutch, labor, and possible flywheel = $550 and a two day wait. Tech did confirm that the clutch was going bad for a while. Although I didn't notice during the test drives and during the past 2 weeks since purchase....such is life.

I don't have the luxury or patience to research better clutch replacements. What are your feelings on the OEM? Are ATC and Stillen's available at your local parts shops or must you order direct? Also, I seen references to the magic something or the other tranny fluid...What's the story on that stuff?

QikEnuf

Well, I have decided to take the car to a transmission specilist (Danco Transmission) and have them look at it since they do it for free!!

There is one new development..The transmission is leaking some black fluid and smells like the grease from a roller coaster ride.

My other question is do the bearings in the transmission move while in neutral and if not could it then be possible that the ticking sound I hear seems to follow engine RPM and is starting to fade away and not be as noticable. I know Mr. Martin said the throwout bearing would make a shrill sound and it's now starting to sound a little like that, so hopefully the tranny bearings are ok and it's the throwout bearing.