I've been having this problem on and off for the last 2 months... don't know what could be the cause of it.

Signs: Vehicle stutters..... ALOT! Stuttering acceleration, and vehicle idles up and down at idle. Sometimes even dies.

Diagnostics: OBD II scanner reads MAF error/malfunction.

First time was while it was raining, so i thought that it might just be water getting in somewere. I later on found out it was the MAF when I did the diagnostics. Looked around the area and it looked like the MAF wires may have had too much strain on it so i zip tied it some slack. Worked fine for a month until...

Second time Happened to me while I was going out to the street races and just getting off of the highway... (thank god!). I got off and pulled into a parking lot and the car dies right there....

I start it back up and it's idling like it's going to die. So I take the MAF plug off and it stops idling rough. Only problem with the MAF plug off is that I can't go over 2.5k rpms.

I start driving home and I come up with the idea of cleaning out the MAF sensor by blowing at the plug areas.

Got to a gas station, blew the MAF sensor plug and the wiring harness plug with the air hose... Plugged it back in and everything has been working beautifully since then....

Anyone had this kinda problem? Is it a sign that my MAF sensor is dying?

 

http://www.jacksonville.com/tu-onlin...844V4T80.shtml

Use crc maf cleaner on sensor if this doesn't help, switch your maf with a buddy with a maxima to test it. Replace if needed - expensive part though check the forums wanted/selling sect. With this out of the way "RACE THE TRACK NOT THE STREET" I've lost seven friends due to street racing-two close ones and two known on the same day, I don't meen to preach but it's not your life that you should fear for it's others and their families (including innocent by standers). Don't get me twisted I've done it myself, but after several tranny's and several friends lost I decided to stop in memory of....It's fun no doubt but the consequences are life changing. Anyways good luck man

 

Oh no, when I said "going to the street races" I didn't mean that I was going to go race. It was actually Hot Rod night at the state fair grounds and I just wanted to see what was going on. I keep my racing for the track only. Sorry to hear about your friends man but to the street racer's defense, that particular incident did have alcohol involved as well.

 

That's cool man, hope cleaning solves your prob.

 

Man just drove the car around for a good 3 hours and the damn thing runs perfectly fine!!!! I started it up to see if it still idles rough before the cleaning so i can measure the effect after cleaning....

Well I can't do anything if it's running perfectly!!!

Anyone have this problem..... ANYONE???

 

If it screws up again replace it. But remember our cars are like 10 years old.

 

I got my replacement from www.car-part.com, 45$ shipped. 15k/3 yrs, still good.

 

I just had my car stall and trip a code too P0100, MAF code. The past few days I noticed a few sputters and momentary losses of power. But after tripping the CEL I decided to buy the part. Going to replace tommorow. Question though, do I need to do an ECU reprogram if I just swap out the MAF? I run a '96 Auto...?

 

No ECU reprogram needed on an A32 for...well, anything, AFAIK.

 

my friend has a 2000 max and he had a bad maf problem once....messed up the whole car,was stalling sputtering just pretty much doin what ever it wanted to.He changed the maf and good as new..

 

Since i cannot post anywhere and i am in desperate need of Help. So here it goes.

- 1995 Maxima
- Misfire almost 3 weeks back since then Vibration started + RPM went low + Engine Check light
- Had Tune Up Done Last Week. (New Plugs + filters etc)
- Ignition Coil OK. Cylinder #4 looks like having issues.
- All the igintion coil working fine in all the cylinders but when you plug those Ignition Coils in Cylinder #4 you don't get any response.
- Checked ECU code it was 0505 - (No Failure Recorded/Detected)
- Reset ECU and now check engine light is gone.
- Put some high quality Injector Cleaner. Now the ride is a bit smooth but the power/Acceleration is not their as it used to. Also Vibrates at low speed.

Any Suggestions and Guidance would be really appreciated. Thanks in Advance.

 

I'm having that prob, but actually didnt clean the wires and such.. only used the crc maf cleaner on everything... I'll go blow it off with the airhose and such, see if it helps any.

 

Apparently you CAN post, because, well you posted in here Oh yes, by the way, click here for a better place to post this question.

 

Didn't help, AT ALL.

 

That's because you can't read or you are cheap. Read the 7th post down in this very thread Ok, I'll be nice and show it to you since you didn't see it the first time.

There are many ways to test it, but why do that when you can get one for cheap? I suggest you get one now before it does completely.

 

The car has 240,000 miles on it, I'm not looking for fixes, I'm looking for least expensive. Just took it off/sprayed it completely down, took a cotton swab to it and air-compressored the hell out of it. Started the car up and it was rpming about 300rpm, took out a wrench and adjusted the idle to 600, turned on the ac and it went up to 800... parked and turned off the ac and it went to 900 then back to 850 and stayed, maybe the car was cold?... I don't think it was, it was rpming up to 600 before and when i took off the maf's plug it stayed at 600 steady.

BUT! ... Since I just man-handled it and did everything short of banging it on something like a nintendo game..... it seems to have solved the problems with the idle. But there is still hesitation in the throttle and such. Basically I'm getting on the gas and by the time my cars moving forward my body already thinks i'm 10 feet ahead of it.... but hey, car doesnt stall with ac on, yay! But the fact it proves that it is the maf atleast for the stalling is delightful!.. Now I can buy one without any fuss...

P.S ... I am cheap.

 

Air flow meter nmex?

 

Correct. . . .

 

I just got my MAF sensor from car-part.com for $35. I picked up the part locally. I replaced the the old one and the car drives very well now.

There are heavy smoke from the muffler when the MAF was bad and I thought the head gasket was bad and was quite warried abut it. The white smoke disappeared after the MAF sensor was replaced.

It would take a short drive (10 miles) for the car to return to normal working condition after the MAF was replaced.

 

I'm gonna try to work on that here, lots of work that needs to be done on the damned car, hehe.

 

I am having similar problems with my 96, but mine appear only when engine is hot, my car is very sluggish, almosts acts as if it is starting in 3rd gear instead of 1st when I step on the gas. Beginning of this week, after about 40minutes driving home in 100 degree heat, my car's rpms were winding and car wasn't moving, I would let off the gas, step on it and was back n forth like this for 3 miles barely making it home. Got home and waited for it to cool down, took it for a spin and the car ran perfect. Currently after having my tranny checked out by Cottman, they concluded problem may be from cluster(speedometer possibly), my car is now at Nissan and they are telling me I need MAF Sensor, Speedometer, VSS and a bunch other crap! The MAF is $700+ & Speedo is $500 !!! I asked the Srvce mgr if the tech can change the speedo and just clean the MAF and he said he's never heard of cleaning the MAF before.... is he full of crap or what is going on. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

 

www.car-part.com Can you people just take my advice on this?

 

can't find maf on that site... anyone ever buy from Autopartsgiant.com ?

they have 3 MAFS
A1 CARDONE Reman Mass Airflow Sensor $45.00 $219.95
ACDELCO US All Makes-Mass Airflow Sensor (Reman) $28.80 $277.69
PYTHON INJECTION INC. Air Flow Meter/Air Mass Sensor $66.00 $189.99

middle # is for the core return I guess...

cheaper than dealers price of $500+ and doesn't seem too difficult to change, I might just have speedometer changed out and do MAF, fuel filter,etc myself... any thoughts?

 

Just picked one up and installed it a couple weeks ago. It's been running fine since then so we'll see how it goes.

The previous owner had removed the wire mesh screen but I don't think this had anything to do with the problems.

 

Ever read post #17 and #18 of this thread?

 

i've got a 97 maxima. i just installed headers and y-pipe and gutted the cat. now i'm having really long crank times before the car will start.....could it be mass air flow?? or what else?

 

I don't think that's a MAF problem man.

 

Probably a CPS problem. Double check your install, and ,as always, check for codes.

 

the only codes i pulled out was a missfire on cylinder #3 and the rear 02 sensor is bad. there were no other codes. the weird thing is....is that if i dump the clutch while the car is rolling slowly so i can start it...it will start right up. but if i just try to use the starter to start it up it will take quiet a while....any clues as to what this might be?

 

Maybe your starter is bad. Have you found what the cause is/was for the cyl # 3 misfire?

 

it happened to me too, it turns out that 3 electrodes were broken and were not connecting all the time so i re-soldered them and now it works fine but! for the longest time i was having trouble with it the same way you are. try hitting you maf sensor right on the head by dropping a medium sized screw driver (you know one that actually weighs somthing) either that or you can always just poke at it with your finger and listen closly for your engine to kind of stumble. if thats your answer your maf sensor is bad. either that or do what i did along with re-connecting the electrodes is buy yourself a can of crc maf cleaner at checker or autozone. it works the best i promise. good luck man

 

My buddy's 240sx has the same exact problem, but he drifts the vehicle constantly, and we sprayed cleaner and it really made the car not idle. So we think it's a bad maf. My skyline has a similar problem however I have isolated it to fuel filter issues

 

Guys, I need some help on this.

My problem with my 96 GXE is, after about 40min of driving my car starts missing and and is unresponsive. The last day I drove it, it was 100 degrees outside, and I barely made it home, stepping on gas, RPMS were flying yet, speedo and my car wasn't going barely anywhere. Car spuddered home and after car cooled after about 1 hour, took car for drive and it worked normal. Idle and response normal again. This was the worst is has gotten, which is why I have it at the dealer now. Prior, it got sluggish after driving 40min, but the hotter the temp is outside, the worse it gets it seems.

I am having the speedo head replaced, as the speedometer/cruise/odo has been working on and off for several years and I recently had my VSS replaced also (from AAmco) - The dealer is telling me the car won't run right until the MAF is replaced, but they want $715 to do this. After looking at these forums, cleaning and/or rreplacing it doesn't appear to be too difficult, but wanted your views and if this is a common characteristic of the MAF failing(car unresponsive only when very hot) I wanted to make sure that this symptom may be something else. I asked the service mgr if the tech can clean the MAF and he said that it cannot be cleaned, which I know is BS.

Any help is appreciated.

 

Try this thread -- http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....tpost&t=516911 In the meantime, check your ECU codes.

 

I had knock sensor and speed sensor codes coming back - had knock sensor code for 2 years though, passed inspection and car has ran great until just recently. speed sensor was replaced, but dealer is saying that code is still coming up... Aamco actually changed the speed sensor twice, because they said the 1st one was defective... could something be shorting it out? why would the code come back again after it was replaced with a brand new one?

waiting for call back after speedometer is replaced and see if codes still coming...

 

Please post in the thread, I quoted you in there since it is a broader, more helping hand type of audience.

 

Well that doesn't look like the same problem that I've had. The RPM's would not "fly" as you have said but more along the line of stutter throughout the RPM's.

 

I've had the same problem...I changed out my MAF and the problem remained the same. I'm not getting any post codes. Is it possible I got a bad MAF from the person I bought it from?

Thanks

 

If you have a bad MAF, the code will eventually show up.

 

Just an update for all you people. It's been about two months now with my new MAF sensor. Car has been running great.