Front passenger side. I've removed the 2 nuts and bolts on the steering knuckle connecting it to the strut. I've removed the hub nut. Disconnected the clip attaching brake hose to the retainer on the strut. But the steering knuckle just doesn't want to come off. Following motorvates directions, there shouldn't be anything else I need to remove, but it just won't come off. There's one more nut and bolt near the bottom but there isn't directions to remove it. Should I remove it anyways? It kinda feels like it's holding the steering knuckle on. Here's a pic, from the motorvate website after he's taken the knuckle down. I've drawn a red and black circles around where the bolt is located although you can't see it that well in the photo.

Do I need to remove this to get the cv axle out?

 

Anyone know?

 

Nobodies done this before me?

 

You don't need to remove the knuckle. Just move it out of the way enough to get the axle out and to put the new one in.

 

Thanks. What happened to maxima.orgs tech guys? There were a lot of knowledgeable guys around back when I joined.... anways... it wouldn't go... the knuckle wouldn't move out of the way enough to get the cv out. Is it supposed to pull out and flop down like in that pic above? I could've pounded the old axle out with a hammer I think. I got it all but a couple inches and I think it would've kept going, but then it seems like itd be near impossible to get it back over the new one after I install that.
I have work tomorrow, so I just put it back for now. It seemed looks difficult to reattaching the knuckle to the strut. The coil spring keeps pushing down on it so the holes to run the bolt through are out of alignment... I did it, but I think I jacked up the cv boot pretty bad. It doesn't matter since I'm replacing the old axle anyways, but I hope I don't do it to the boot on the new axle when trying to put that back on.

 

As coincidence would have it, I just did this to my Max yesterday. The biggest interference I had was the booted area of the outer joint running into the bottom of the strut. It just required sufficient brut-force to move the two parts in opposite directions but it did come out.
I found this a relief because my previous car (626) wouldn't quite allow this so I would typically remove the entire hub.
Just keep at it, perhaps with an extra pair of hands, it'll come out.

 

You have an auto or a manual? I need to do it with the drivers side too, but I've heard some stories about how hard it is to pry out the cv on that side with an auto.

 

Just by removing the two strut-knuckle bolts, and basically stepping or prying down on the knuckle assembly will give you enough room to get the axle out without removing everything on that side.

 

what u could do is turn the wheel slightly if not just take like crow bar and pry it out of the spindle and also there are three bolts that hold the passenger side axle in place behind the cv joint.

 

Don't be scared to force the steerign knuckle out of the way. You had it right. unbolt the stut from the steering knuckle, undo the axle bolt, and pull the steering knuckle out of the way. it helps to use a bolt or dowl and a rubber mallet to knock on the end of the axle to get it to slide out of the hub. Once you get the steering knuckle clear unbolt the three bolts that hold the axle to the bracket underneith the car and it will slide right out with no problem (pull it straight out though). And when you put it all back together tighten the crap out of the axle nut. (i think it's around 200 ft-lbs? required?)

 

The wheel bearing lock-nut should be tightened to 174-231 ft.lbs (235-314 Nm). I don't think I got mine that tight when I changed the rotors, good thing I'm putting Raxles on this week. They look awesome, can't wait to get em' on.

 

Why did you remove the axle nuts to change the rotors?

 

Great question, not sure.

 

I'm sure I took it off on the drivers side, though I didn't have to. Anyhow I hope I only am damaging the axle if it is a little loose. Moot point now, my Raxles are here.

BTW Pmohr, do I need to get a new retaining clip for the drivers side axle? It sounds like it gets damaged when you take the old axle out. Not likely, but maybe it's with the Raxles, I haven't looked.

 

It shouldn't move around with the axle nut tight but not torqued to spec, do you at least have the castle nut and the cotter pin in there? If you do, it won't move a bit, at worst when it backs off up to the castle nut (if there's any space in between the two) that's where it'll stop.

Do your raxles not have a circlip already on them? I believe they should. If not, you very well may damage the old one when trying to transfer it, so I'd get a new one just to be safe. Otherwise, I've never replaced an axle circlip once, and I've r&r'ed countless axles at school, the 4 shops I've worked at, and on personal jobs, never had an issue.

Once I had to replace my axle on the side of the road about 2 miles from my house, I took the damn circlip off of the axle just to get it in easily. Drove up to my house with no issues, put the circlip back on it the next day, and it was fine. No damage from removal or putting it back on the shaft.

 

There is the slightest constant "knocking" feeling in the steering wheel when the car is moving. Probably a bad bushing somewhere, or the steering linkage. I'm sure everythings fine and dandy, I was just speculating a bit. The castle/ cotter are on.

I Can't wait to stop leaking GL-4 all over my f [_]cking driveway.