When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I recently replaced LCAs (Moog), struts (Monroe quick struts), CV axles and seals, sway bar bushings/endlinks (Moog), inner/outter tie rod ends (Moog) and after a couple of months I started noticing creaking/rattling coming from front driver's side when going over bumps. Haven't had a chance to check it out yet. Any ideas before I put it back up on stands? Also, what exactly are the symptoms of "sloppy" axles? When I let off the gas at slower speeds (in town driving) it jerks a bit. CV axles are NAPA remans.
Check everything you've recently replaced. Start by making sure the nut holding the strut onto the top mount is secure. Then check the control arm nuts and bolts. You might have missed the torque when assembling something.
Well I think I may have found the problem. Noticed center strut nut was off center. Had someone turn the steering wheel back and forth and sure enough the center strut nut has quite a bit of play. The strut/mount is also creaking when repeatedly pushing down on that corner of the car. Bad strut mount? They've only been on for about 6 months. What do you guys recommend?
I've never disassembled/reassembled one of these before. With a bad strut mount what all exactly has to be replaced? Just the rubber part? Are there other components that may be defective? I'm wondering how rockauto/Monroe will handle this as I purchased them only 7 months ago as a complete assembly.
It sounds like its the little rubber bushing inside the strut mount as you believe. The strut bring offcenter at the top is a pretty good indicator of that along with the symptoms you are experiencing.
For some reason, at least in my experience, OEM is the only one that isnt problem prone. You dont need to replace the whole mount, just the bushing inside of it iirc.
Also just covering all the bases here, but you did get an alignment after doing this job right?
It sounds like its the little rubber bushing inside the strut mount as you believe. The strut bring offcenter at the top is a pretty good indicator of that along with the symptoms you are experiencing.
For some reason, at least in my experience, OEM is the only one that isnt problem prone. You dont need to replace the whole mount, just the bushing inside of it iirc.
Also just covering all the bases here, but you did get an alignment after doing this job right?
Thanks. Yes I did get an alignment. Wondering if I will need another alignment after repairing the strut. I've read conflicting opinions on that issue. Also do you happen to know the exact part name to be replaced? Is it the strut bearing? I may contact rock auto and see about a warranty.
I just looked at Monroe's warranty info. Limited lifetime on QuickStruts...no warranty on strut/shock mounts...Perfect! (Sarcasm). How is the assembly covered but not the mount, which is part of the assembly?
I just looked at Monroe's warranty info. Limited lifetime on QuickStruts...no warranty on strut/shock mounts...Perfect! (Sarcasm). How is the assembly covered but not the mount, which is part of the assembly?
The mounts are designed to wear out, they're cheap to replace anyways
The mounts are designed to wear out, they're cheap to replace anyways
I appreciate all replies however this strut mount is about 6 months old with 1k miles on it. $50 for one new OE mount and time that I don't necessarily have isn't cheap to me.
Is this the part that I need? I am not seeing only the rubber bushing listed seperately anywhere. I assume this part includes the rubber bushing. Also what is the difference between the two parts listed (se, gle, gxe)?mine is a 99 se. Since I have Monroe springs/struts and not oe, will it make a difference?
Decided to order another quick strut assembly from rock auto and return the bad one. I will update after replacement is installed and refund is issued.
When I originally replaced my struts, I discarded the old insulator spacers/gaskets as they were ripped and in poor condition. I did not replace them. I wish I had held onto them to trace them and make some new ones. Trying to save some money. Thinking about printing out a picture of the part to scale and tracing that. Any ideas would be appreciated.
If youre talking about the triangle shaped orange gasket thingy, i made that exact same mistake. Sucks because AFAIK, you can only get them from nissan and they cost like 15$ each i think - absurd considering its literally a paper based gasket.
Im curious myself if a rtv-like material would work here. The gasket is simply to prevent rubbing between two stationary parts, i cant see why it wouldnt work, the OEM gasket is literally just paper with a waxy coating.
This is a real ghetto idea, but maybe take a few layers of thick wax paper, poke holes through it and slide it onto the 3 strut bolts, and cut away the excess until you are left with the correct shape? The originals are like 1mm thick, so you would need to match that id assume. Again just spitballing, couldnt hurt to try and plus discovering a way to avoid paying nissan 20-30$ for scrap paper is always a plus.
If youre talking about the triangle shaped orange gasket thingy, i made that exact same mistake. Sucks because AFAIK, you can only get them from nissan and they cost like 15$ each i think - absurd considering its literally a paper based gasket.
Im curious myself if a rtv-like material would work here. The gasket is simply to prevent rubbing between two stationary parts, i cant see why it wouldnt work, the OEM gasket is literally just paper with a waxy coating.
This is a real ghetto idea, but maybe take a few layers of thick wax paper, poke holes through it and slide it onto the 3 strut bolts, and cut away the excess until you are left with the correct shape? The originals are like 1mm thick, so you would need to match that id assume. Again just spitballing, couldnt hurt to try and plus discovering a way to avoid paying nissan 20-30$ for scrap paper is always a plus.
Thanks. I'm definitely going to try something like that. Can't you buy gasket material at most auto parts stores? My dealer wants $19 a piece. They are $13 at courtesyparts.
Thanks. I'm definitely going to try something like that. Can't you buy gasket material at most auto parts stores? My dealer wants $19 a piece. They are $13 at courtesyparts.
Generally you can, really depends on your area. I actually was looking for "do it yourself" gasket material that you can cut to shape a week ago - all the local auto stores didnt have any but had them listed online. They did have generic gaskets, which wont be of any use to you though.
Imho, id just bend over and buy the gaskets from nissan, unless you rig something up yourself for free. It sucks paying for a part that costs less than 1 cent to produce, but at least you can rest assured that the problem will be eliminated for good.
Do you see any reason why this will not work? Got this gasket material from Advance for $6. Like I mentioned before, I discarded the originals so I could not trace them. I ended up pressing a sheet of wax paper onto the strut which left an outline of the mount. I then cut that out and traced it onto the gasket material. Its not perfect but I can't imagine it needing to be if its only purpose is to eliminate metal to metal contact. Haven't installed the new strut yet. I plan on removing the other strut and installing a gasket on it as well.
Last edited by kingw323; Oct 17, 2015 at 01:58 PM.
i've never seen anyone do that before, usually just put the nuts right on top of the mounting plate and call it a day. food for thought.
Are you saying that the factory OEM insulator gasket/spacer is unnecessary? I questioned the need for them as well when I found my originals in poor condition, however I decided that it would be a good idea to replace them as they must be there for a reason.
